Wednesday, October 9th

Still blowing freshly from the W. and by S.—very pleasant and cool. Having put a clean pair of Wednesday trousers on, was not much pleased to find myself, an hour after, sprawling on my side among the dirt of the cow, dogs & cock's house. Preparations were in liveliness for Neptune's visit. Everyone asking, 'Do you think they will really shave us?' especially the ladies. Latitude at noon 0.43. Henry made a 'macassar' ointment for Bob's bald places with gunpowder, burnt leather & butter: applied it thoroughly with Willy's assistance. After the cuddy dinner the fun of page 44the day began. As soon as the first passengers were seen leaving the table, a wild shout was heard, and from behind a tarpaulin screen slung from the foremast across one side of the deck, rushed the most motley group ever were seen. About a dozen grotesque figures suddenly appeared surrounding a gun carriage, which they dragged rumbling and creaking to the poop stairs. On the carriage was seated Neptune, clothed in a sort of tunic, blotched and streaked into a fantastic pattern with tar and paints, red, blue and black. He wore a hideous mask of the same colours and was armed with a long sword and a speaking trumpet. Through this he kept continually shouting hoarse orders which we could not understand, but his satellites did with a vengeance. His lady was dressed as an ordinary mortal, with dingy gown, black silk bonnet & oakum ringlets, with a baby in her arms. She was represented by Jonas, the smallest of the boys. Arrived at the poop he ascended with his bear and bear-leader, his secretary, barber and surgeon and other attendants, to demand tribute from the strangers there. He was received by Wortley, the representative of the cabin passengers, who in their name presented him with a subscription list, which in various sums the passengers agreed to furnish at New Zealand. It amounted, with the contributions of the intermediate, to £6 12s. They descended then, and passing across the deck, the whole party ascended to 'Neptune's Easy Shaving Shop' as announced by a chalk inscription to that effect, surmounted by a barber's pole. The procession scattered the emigrants on the deck in all directions—most of them ascended to the poop, where they fancied themselves, and really were for a time, secure. Some of the children and many of the weaker women were already much frightened at the grotesque dresses and preferred to go at once below. Meantime the order was arranged in the shop. On the top of the cowhouse was placed a little dog-kennel on the brink of a large sail filled with water to about the depth of five feet. The barber and barber's assistant—the former with a razor of page 45notched hoop, and the latter with a tar brush and a pot of tar grease and stinking filth, stood ready on the stage to receive the customers, and the bear stood in the sail below to duck them after the operation. A novice was then led forward blindfold. On his way he was met by the 'doctor' who felt his pulse and ordered him some salts—which were immediately thrown over him in two or three buckets of salt water—lent him a smelling bottle—the cork being filled with pins. After this, and being tripped over a rope, he was led up the ladder to be shaved, amidst a shower of buckets from every quarter. Seated on the dog-kennel, he was first lathered with the tar and grease, which was completely scraped off with the hoop, the operator formally stropping his razor between every few strokes upon an enormous black bone. After he had been well scraped, the unlucky victim was pitched, still blindfold, backwards into the sail, where he was received by the bear and well worried and ducked. About six or seven were operated on, and the spectators were enjoying the sight from the poop, ladies and all—when suddenly the word was given by Neptune through his trumpet 'Pass the word to give the poop a raking fire', and sailors began to pitch bucketsful from the main deck upwards. The scurry became dreadful after a few drenchings, and nearly all the ladies deserted it, except Mrs Fisher and her maid who, having been well wet with the first discharge, had sense enough to see the fun of it. Mrs Bishop and Miss Howard were led down nearly fainting, but this did not diminish the fun, now becoming furious, fast and general. Every one that could provided himself with a bucket and poured it over every one that came near him, sailors and passengers pell-mell, now rushing up the poop and deluging the people there, now in playful duels, surprises and ambuscades among themselves. Every one on deck had their dress wetted through and through before they went down—Captain and all. The Captain was at one time seen scrambling up the rigging and chase given him from below. page 46This lasted for about two hours, and when, every one was nearly tired, both of the fun and of their own exertions, the word was given to clear the decks. But the sailors were still unappeased, having been disappointed of finding a man who had been making himself obnoxious to all on board—the steward of the intermediate cabin—and though they had searched, as they thought, through every corner, he had not been found. However, just as they had begun to leave off and unrig, he appeared, having been hidden in the hospital. They dragged him up, and being much exasperated by the fruitless search, they paid him off savagely. They lathered him till his mouth was full of filth—they shaved him till the skin was scraped off his face—and the bear nearly drowned him when he got him in the water. He emerged in a pitiable plight, and even his greatest enemies almost were sorry for the excess of his punishment. The hatches were now removed, and the timid emigrants, who had been nearly stifled below and drenched with occasional bursts of water, were allowed to emerge. Every man got a dose of rum to keep the chill off him, and soon after, comfort and good humour restored to everybody, they were enabled to laugh at the absurdity of the whole scene. At the same time, there are few on board who do not condemn the principle of the extortion (for such it is with those who can afford to pay for escaping shaving) and who do not believe the whole affair to be as stupid, ridiculous and silly a custom as has ever been handed down to us by ancestors and recommended by the traditions and wisdom of time out of mind. I would recommend every man novice who crosses the line to prepare himself for it by putting on a pair of old white trousers, a dirty shirt and no shoes or stockings, getting a bucket and joining in drenching the others as hard as he can. It is stupid to stand looking on, and if he has paid his shot (about five shillings will do), he need not fear being shaved or meddled offensively with. Ladies should not leave the cuddy on any pretence; if they are tempted to go on the page 47poop to 'see the fun', neither their age, appearance, dress or entreaties will save them from being drenched. They can, however, see it all well if they secure a front row at the cuddy forward windows.

On the forecastle till near midnight. Singing was kept up in right jovial style. We expected to pass the Line about midnight.