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Stepping Stones to the Solomons: the unofficial history of the 29th Battalion with the Second New Zealand Expeditionary Force in the Pacific.

Chapter Three — Paradise Regained

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Chapter Three
Paradise Regained

Dawn on 6 July found the USS President Coolidge moving slowly up the Rangitoto Channel, her decks lined with men eager to recognise wellknown landmarks and making no attempt to hide their excitement. To any traveller the first sight of his native land after a long absence is a never-to-be-forgotten thrill, but to these soldiers, many of whom had been away for close on two years, it meant much more. To them it meant reunion with loved ones, a revisiting of well-remembered spots and a sudden realization that this land which they had been called on to protect was well worth the sweat and toil of the last two years.

Their lot had not been an easy one. They had no stories of combat to relate, no deeds of valour to recall; their only memories ones of endless route marches beneath a scorching sun, of mosquito infested nights, long hours spent digging defences with makeshift tools and a seemingly useless succession of stunts apparently designed to take them across the worst possible country at every hour of the day and night. Now they were home again with some wellearned leave to come and, what was just as important, Dame Rumour had it on the best authority that they were to join their comrades of the Second Division.

By 9 am the giant transport had nosed her way alongside Prince's Wharf and already crowds were gathering outside the dock gates. Many of the more resourceful of the friends and relatives spent the morning travelling back and forth on the Bayswater and Birkenhead ferries, thus enabling them to have a few words with the troops on the transport each time they passed. Disembarkation arrangements were completed shortly after 2 pm and the troops were loaded into trains page 30which were waiting alongside the ship and taken to Papakura Camp. That night everyone went to bed fully clad, for Papakura, cold enough at any time, had excelled itself. The troops, after a long period of service in the tropics, justly appreciated the import of the wellknown story concerning brass monkeys.

The following day was spent in violent preparations for leave. Rail warrants and passes were issued, tropical clothing checked and handed in and the other thousand and one details attended to. However, things went according to plan and the first leave party left that night, closely followed by the rest of the battalion.

The beginning of August saw the battalion reassembled at Papakura and ready to continue its training. However; the weeks that followed produced anything but continuous work, for now the battalion was within reach of the civilian administration. Men were forever being taken away for industrial purposes, and special leave, for all types and varieties of reasons, became the order of the day. Then again weekend and other leave would be granted only for the troops to find that, because of the coal shortage, they were not permitted to travel on trains despite the fact that frequently they saw heavily laden race trains on their way into Auckland. Perhaps some day the reason for all this 'messing about' will be told, but at the time one could think of no possible explanation.

Still, in spite of it all, training went on. All ranks soon became reaccustomed to the hard roads, and some really good work was put in. One of the best-remembered of these stunts was the battalion exercise at Waiuku. This lasted three days, during which time the troops covered well over 60 miles, most of it through bitter winds and cold driving rain. Accustomed as the troops were to working and living in all types of weather and under all sorts of conditions, they were far from being acclimatised, and those three days recall memories which are anything but pleasant. Some of the few bright spots of this period in New Zealand were Sunday afternoons when visitors were permitted in the camp. This enabled men who were held in camp because of travel restrictions to spend an hour or two with their families and friends.

Mid-September saw the battalion in bivouac at the Presbyterian Bible Class Camp at Hunua Falls, where it underwent a period of training in bush and mountain warfare. By this time everyone was well accustomed to mud and slush, but here tempers were tried to the page 31utmost. Every fresh day brought its new quota of rain and a coresponding deepening of the mud throughout the camp. Everything was soon wet and clammy, clothing refused to dry, and almost continuous cleaning was necessary to prevent equipment becoming covered with rust and mildew. The troops slid and scrambled over country which would have tried even the most foolhardy goat, until one day the great news arrived that the division was to be concentrated for training in the Waikato area. There was a slight dampening of enthusiasm when it was heard that the units were to march to their new camp sites but it was universally agreed that anything would be better than the battalion's present existence.

Preparations for the move were soon under way and, as usual with the 29th immediately a move or a stunt was suggested, the weather decided to put on a special demonstration. By the time the battalion moved out the whole camp was covered in a sea of mud better than ankle deep. The march from Hunua Falls to Horotiu will live long in the memories of those who took part. The route—Hunua, Bombay, Pukekawa, Rotowaro, Horotiu—covered every possible type of country, and for some unexplainable reason the steepest hills always occurred during that stage of the afternoon when everyone was wondering just how much longer he could keep going. Actually casualties were extremely light and the battalion secured the honour of finishing the march with one of the lowest percentages of losses in the division.

The weather, too, did its best to offer the greatest possible variety; it ranged from heat which soaked battledress and equipment in perspiration to driving rain and bitter winds which made all ranks long for the tropic sun on which they had, not many months previously, called down all manner of curses. However, all had learned to take the rough with the smooth and everyone soon settled down to the job in hand, although it must be admitted that there was a certain feeling of relief when Horotiu appeared on the horizon.

The following day the battalion moved by motor convoy from Horotiu to its new site at Karapiro, where it was to occupy the Public Works Camp which had been erected for the workers on the hydroelectric scheme. The camp and its surroundings were most pleasant and conditions were really comfortable, even though the battalion did not spend a great deal of time in camp. For, as soon as the page 32troops were settled in, an extensive training programme was once again put into operation.

Stunt followed stunt with monotonous regularity, the work culminating with a divisional exercise in the Kaimai Ranges, the battalion taking the role of an invading force. As the 34th and 36th Battalions had already gone overseas again, the 29th had plenty to do. As usual heavy rain fell, bringing in its wake seas of mud which finally brought all transport, even the all-conquering jeeps, to a stand-still. But rations and equipment had to be got up to the forward troops, and large carrying parties were organised from the limited reserves. Often wading more than knee deep in freezing streams or clambering up and down precipitous faces, men struggled and swore getting the supplies up the line.

Even though it was only an exercise, some really good work was done, especially by C company who, under their mountain-loving company commander, carried out feats of endurance which amazed the observers and completely baffled the 'enemy'. As is always the case in exercise of that type, it was extremely difficult to name the victor, but many lessons were learnt which proved their worth when the time came for the acid test of actual combat.

An advanced party under Major F. L. Rees sailed for an unknown destination on 28 October. Immediately rumour and speculation dominated military life again. Of course, the hope in everyone's heart was that at last the powers that be had seen the light and the men were to join their comrades in the Middle East Forces. From day to day the stories improved, until one almost knew what camp the unit was to enter in the Middle East. Then came disillusionment. All ranks were issued with tropical clothing, and the battalion realised that theirs was not the path of glory—once again they were to languish in the glamorous isles of the Pacific.

Early in November all ranks were granted seven days' final leave, and on their return preparations for the move were soon in full swing. Reinforcements marched in; arms and equipment were checked; rolls and schedules were prepared, amended and prepared again. A farewell ball was held in the Cambridge Town Hall, and on II December the brigade carried out a march through Cambridge, the salute being taken by Brigadier Row, who was later to lead the brigade into action in the Northern Solomons.

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This parade was arranged as a gesture to the residents of Cambridge and Karapiro in return for the hospitality they had extended to all ranks. During its service the battalion has been stationed in many different localities, but never have the men had such kindness and friendliness showered upon them. Everyone felt a deep appreciation for the way in which the residents had taken the 29th to their hearts.

Christmas Day saw the completion of the preparations for the move, and a full scale Christmas dinner was given to the troops in camp. It was not what could be called a happy Christmas, for, being on the eve of a move, everyone was feeling unsettled. This attitude was not in any way helped by the fact that the homes of many were only a few hours travel away. However, although a number took french leave in order to say goodbye to their families, the majority remembered their obligations and stuck to the ship.

At last the day of departure arrived. On 28 December the battalion moved by rail to Auckland, where it embarked on the west Point for its new sphere of operations, which was now known to be New Caledonia.

Although all ranks appreciated their luck in being able to return home to see their families, this stay in New Zealand produced anything but a feeling of satisfaction among some of the soldiers. While civil administration in wartime admittedly has its difficulties, dozens of apparently unnecessary restrictions were placed on the troops. Personnel of the Third Division were not permitted to travel by rail because of coal shortage, and yet race trains appeared to be absolutely unrestricted. Even though the chances of action seemed remote, most of the troops welcomed the thought of going away again, for apparently the general public blamed the individual soldier for the period of inactivity in Fiji and wasted no opportunity to air this view. Yet surely a soldier goes where he is ordered and not where his personal feelings would take him.