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The Samoa (N.Z.) Expeditionary Force 1914–1915

Chapter V. — Noumea, New Caledonia

page 39

Chapter V.
Noumea, New Caledonia.

At daybreak on 20th the cry went up of "land ahead," and many eager faces crowded the bows of the good ships "Monowai" and "Moeraki" for a glimpse of their first port of call, and for the majority of those on board, their first sight of a foreign land, which proved to be the French possession of New Caledonia.

Drawing inshore through a narrow passage between long rows of white surf surging on reefs, the ships passed a tall, light station with tricolour flying, set in the midst of a growth of young palms and surrounded by the beautiful blue waters—a perfect gem of the sea—and gave to many who saw it a first impression of "tropical islands midst glittering seas." Up they passed to the grander rugged beauties of Noumea itself, and into the long harbour entrance, where white beaches glistened in the sun, coconut palms bordered the waters and verdant bush ciothed the lower foothills. Here excited groups clothed in white could be seen rushing the vantage points and apparently speculating as to what this "bolt from the blue" could be, while a smart launch with Europeans aboard glided past to the accompaniment of loud shouts of "Vive V Angleterre."

Turning into the inner Harbour the town of Noumea lay snugly under the hills with its shipping at the wharves and the French "Montcalm" (Rear Admiral A. L. M. Huguet) lying in the stream. Passing the latter the crew hung out and cheered vociferously, the bands struck up, ours "The Marseilles," and theirs "God Save the King," and the anchors went down amidst the wildest enthusiasm ashore and afloat. The harbour soon became animated with motor launches, rowing boats and native craft, the excited occupants surrounding the ships and showing in every conceivable manner their friendly feelings.

Here it was reported that two large war vessels, which were believed to be of the German Pacific Squadron, had been sighted passing South the day before. From the movements of the Ger-page 40
First Sight of Land Noumea Light Station.

First Sight of Land Noumea Light Station.

First Greetings from Noumea.

First Greetings from Noumea.

The "Montcalm."

The "Montcalm."

Photos by late Lt. L. M. Liardet.

Photos by late Lt. L. M. Liardet.

page 41man
ships (according to "Naval Operations"—Corbett) it is unlikely that this report was correct. Nevertheless, Telefunken signals had been heard by the Fleet during the night, which seemed to indicate German cruisers in very close proximity, and port was made with no little relief to the authorities.

Owing to the interest that centred around the German warships, known, or believed to be, in the Pacific, a short account of the ships and their movements is given.*

page 42

Later in the day the troopers pulled alongside the wharf, where the whole cosmopolitan population of New Caledonia, in a blaze of colour, gathered to overwhelm Nos Gallants Allies with the warmest of French welcomes.

The scene of cheering, shouting, gesticulating crowds was beyond description; such a babel of voices in many languages, page 43with here and there a laughing "Kia Ora, New Zealand," and such a medley of dress. French women, chic and charming; dainty little Japanese in full Oriental costume, men in white linen suits, half-caste women with sweet faces and graceful figures, their taste in dress running to vivid colours, and a thousand and one types of coloured men and women—japanese, Chinese, Negroes; while Polynesians, Micronesians and Melanesians could be distinguished, the latter dressed only in loin cloths, or lava lava, of brilliant hue.

Someone aboard suggested "oranges," and soon baskets full were being pelted aboard, the resultant scramble affording great delight to the onlookers.

A brisk interchange of souvenirs commenced, and Noumean [hospitality poured aboard in the shape of fruits, sweets, cigarettes, to say nothing of bottles of wine of a vile vintage, which was reflected in the crime sheet the following day.

After the Noumean dinner hour (8 o'clock) the town band serenaded the visitors to their hearts' content. Their selections were interspersed with much singing of "The Marseilles," "God Save the King," the Russian National Anthem, all concluding with loud shouts of "Vive la France!" "Vive L' Angleterre!" \"Vive la Nouvelle Zelands!" the din continuing well into the night.

It was not to be wondered at that a great deal of interest was manifested by all ranks in the novel surroundings. Leave was eagerly sought on many and various pleas, but was promptly and decisively declined. But camouflage even at this early stage of the war was not unknown to the resourceful New Zealander, and tales are told of a venturesome band of "ship's firemen" who spent a few wild hours on shore at Noumea that night.

Next morning orders were received for a route march through the town and its immediate environs. The column assembled on the pier and moved off headed by the Band, the general appearance of the troops and their up-to-date equipment eliciting compliments from all sides. The town was en fete and all commercial houses were closed. Every person bore an expansive expression of welcome, and from the awnings of wayside page 44hostelries picturesque groups waved tricolours and shouted unintelligible greetings to the marching soldiers.

At the outskirts of the town an opportunity was afforded the visitors of observing the amazing productivity of the territory in tropical fruits and flowers, and each turn of the road presented fresh wonders to delight the eye. Huge spiders hung from telephone wires and suspended themselves between the
New Zealanders ashore at Noumea, New Caledonia.Photo by late Lt.L M. Liardet.

New Zealanders ashore at Noumea, New Caledonia.
Photo by late Lt.L M. Liardet.

branches of the flowering hibiscus, and were the cynosure of many wondering eyes.

A circuitous route was taken back to the ships, and all ranks felt the heat rather badly, while many suffered acutely from the unaccustomed use for the first time of military boots.

A detachment that had remained on guard on board during the morning were despatched on the march in the afternoon led by the trumpeters of Infanterie de Marine, of the local garrison.

Next morning the battle cruiser "Australia" and the light cruiser "Melbourne" arrived off the port, giving to the little expedition a sense of security. Here also were the two New Zealand colliers, the "Katoa" and "Koromiko," and coaling commenced forthwith.

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The O.C. Force, with his General Staff Officer, attended a joint naval and military conference on board the Flagship, when the plan of operations previously discussed was finally decided. The Commander's cutter from the "Melbourne" came smartly across the Bay and pulled up alongside the "Moeraki," bearing the Commander's invitation to his brother to dinner. The interested person was neither a lieutenant nor a superior officer, but one of the Battery's humblest gunners. That night the
Noumea, showing Escort, "Australia," "Melbourne," "Pyramus," "Philomel," "Psyche," and "Montcalm."

Noumea, showing Escort, "Australia," "Melbourne," "Pyramus," "Philomel," "Psyche," and "Montcalm."

officers and non-commissioned officers were taken into the confidence of the O.C. Force, and informed that the objective of the Expedition was one of Germany's island possessions.

Word was passed around that probably a mail would be taken back to New Zealand by the colliers, and every man was soon busy scratching a line to his folk.

The next morning the troopships moved quietly from the wharf to lie at anchor until the completion of coaling the warships, and the "Monowai" had the misfortune to take a sandbank and stick fast. The Navy immediately took charge, a diver went down and reported no damage, and a tow was put aboard page 46without success. There was nothing for it but to await the full tide at 10 p.m., and meantime all detailed arrangements were made to transport the troops by the "Australia" and "Melbourne" for the remainder of the voyage in the event of the attempt to refloat the "Monowai" proving unsuccessful. To lighten the ship 500 tons of coal, cargo and ammunition were
Coaling Ship at Noumea.

Coaling Ship at Noumea.

discharged by the troops into lighters. As the hour of highwater approached all warships in port illuminated the ship with their searchlights, and to the tooting of the ship's whistle the troops were kept at the double from port to starboard and from bows to stern in an endeavour to loosen the ship from the sand's grip.

They were then hurriedly disembarked to a collier alongside, tows were run out and with the aid of the colliers and the French "Jeanette," the swearing and yelling of all concerned, and to the accompaniment of the expressive thanks of the ship's officers to be moving again, she was pulled into deep water, almost coming into collision with one of the tugs as she floated off.

* At the outbreak of hostilities Admiral von Spee, with the "Scharnhorst," "Gneisenau," "Nurnberg" and a tender ("Titania") was at Ponape, en route for a proposed cruise to Samoa. On receipt of his "Warning Telegram" he proceeded to Pagan Island (in the Ladronnes) and there, on 6th August, the "Prinz Eitel Friedrich," "Emden," the large tender "Markomannia" and three other supply ships from Tsingtau joined him.

"Emden" with "Markomannia" was despatched Southward on 13th August, passing through Molucca Passage, August 23rd, and by the end of the month was steaming Westward along the South Coast of Java, preparatory to her famous raids in the Indian Ocean.

Von Spee steamed Eastward to Enivetok (or Brown Atoll) in the [Western extremity of the Marshall Group. He was there from August 19th to 22nd, and moved thence to Majuro at the other end of the Group. He reached Majuro on August 26th, having on his way there detached the "Nurnberg" to Honolulu for further supplies. At Majuro he was joined by the "Cormoran"—a captured Russian ship converted as a merchant cruiser—and two more store ships from Tsingtau.

Thence he proceeded Eastward to Christmas Island, leaving "Prinz Eitel Friedrich" and "Cormoran" to operate against Australian trade.

The latter ships, after leaving von Spee, were next heard of in Angaua, a week before the "Sydney" destroyed its wireless station. They had separated in search of coal, and, not knowing that New Guinea was occupied, had fixed their rendezvous at Alexis Bay, just North of Friedrich Wilhelm Harbour. The "Cormoran" was actually hiding there when Admiral Patey was taking possession of the administrative capital. When his back was turned both ships made off for the West Coast of America, the "Cormoran" narrowly escaping the "Satsuma" of the Second Japanese South Sea Squadron at Yap. The "Nurnberg," last heard of at Honolulu, appeared off Fanning Island, September 7th, and, after wrecking the British Cable Station there, ran to join von Spee at Christmas Island.

Von Spee anchored at Christmas Island to coal on September 7th, and appeared off Apia on the 14th of that month. Thence he proceeded to the island of Suwarrow, in the Northern Cooks, where the "Nurnberg," with supply ships, met him. Thence he moved to Bora Bora in the Society Group (September 21) and on the following day he bombarded Papeete.

He arrived at Easter Island, October 12th, and there mobilized his two heavy cruisers ("Scharnhorst" and "Gneisenau") and three light cruisers ("Leipzig," "Nurnberg" and "Dresden"). The whole fleet proceeded to Mas-a-fuera, a lonely island some 500 miles West of Valpariso, where he arrived October 14th, and spent a week replenishing from further supply ships. Here also he was joined by "Prinz Eitel Friedrich." From this base he caused considerable havoc to shipping prior to Coronel and the Falklands Battle. Prior to "Leipzig" and "Dresden" joining von Spee at Easter Island, October 12, they had been operating off the American Coast.

In addition to the above-named ships, the converted merchantman "Seydlitz" was in Australian waters. She apparently made immediately for Valparaiso, which port she reached August 26. Also the "Yorck," which had left Yokohama converted as a cruiser on August 4 for a destination unknown.

The "Geier" had left Singapore before the outbreak of war, and was somewhere in the Pacific, On September 4 she captured at Kusaie, in the Eastern Carolines, the British ship "S.S. Southport," which was lying there, ignorant of the fact that war had broken out, and which later escaped to Brisbane under extraordinary skill.

At Tsingtau there were four small gunboats, but some of these had been dismantled to arm the "Cormoran." The "Komet" and "Planet," armed survey ships, were in the vicinity of New Guinea. The latter was captured hiding in New Britain, and the latter sank herself at Yap on the approach of the Japanese on October 7th. The "Eber," another small gunboat, put into Bahia, September 4, and was there interned.

Trial
Completed.Tons.Speed.Guns.
"Scharnhorst"190711,42023.228.2"65.9"
"Gneisenau"190811,42023.588.2"65.9"
"Emden"19093.59224.1104.1"
"Nurnberg"19083.40023.5104.1"
"Leipzig"19063,20022.4104-1"