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Report on the Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expedition 1963-64: VUWAE 8

Report on the Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expedition, 1963-64

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Report on the Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expedition, 1963-64.

INTRODUCTION

A Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expedition was again mounted for the 1963-64 summer to carry out investigations in the Taylor, Wright and Victoria Valleys, ice free areas west of Mc Murdo Sound. (See Figs. I and II).

V.U.W.A.E.s 1, 2, 3, and 6 had investigated the bedrock and glacial geology of these ice free areas whereas V.U.W.A.E.s 5 and 7 had carried out detailed geochemical and physical investigations on Lake Vanda and Lake Bonney, respectively. From the achievements of V.U.W.A.E.s 5 and 7 it was clear that further investigation was needed of as many large lakes as possible within these "dry" valleys. Conseouently a large expedition with a complex programme was organised for the 1963-64 season.

Finance:

Financial aid for the expedition cone from:-
  • University Research Grants Committee.
  • Victoria University of Wellington.

Personnel:

As with V.U.W.A.E. 6 it was decided to maintain a 6 man expedition so that it could operate as three 2 man elements in the field, if necessary. A change in Scientific Leader during the season was planned for; therefore 7 men were involved:-
  • W. M. Prebble, Temporary Junior Lecturer, Geology Department, V.U.W. (Leader).
  • Professor A. T. Wilson, Chemistry Dept., V.U.W. (Scientific Leader first part of season)
  • Professor H. W. Wellman, Geology Dept., V.U.W. (Scientific Leader Second part of season).
  • R. A. Hoare, Physics Dept., V.U.W. (Deputy Leader).
  • R. A. Henderson, Geology Dept., V.U.W.
  • D. A. House, Chemistry Dept., V.U.W.
  • K. B. Popplewell. Chemistry Dept., V.U.W.

The personnel performed distinct scientific duties according to their respective fields, but there was of course a great deal of [unclear: familiarisation] by each member outside his own field. The stage was soon reached where each member was able to participate in every aspect of the expedition's work. Mostly the party worked as a 6 man unit on a specific task but occasionally split up into 2 man or 3 man units which kept in close contact by daily radio communication.

PLANNED PROGRAMME

Following the results of V.U.W.A.E.s 5 and 7 it was decided to send a large expedition to as many lakes as possible in the No Murdo Oasis, especially those in the Taylor Valley.

Accordingly, the whole expedition was to move by helicopter to Lake Pryxell, Taylor Valley (Fig. II) in mid November. In the same movement 2 people were to spend a day at Lake Vanda to establish water level gauges and at least one person would supervise the laying of all dumps at strategic positions in the Taylor, Wright and Barwick — Victoria Valleys, 4 dumps were to be laid in the Taylor, 3 in the Wright and 3 in the Barwick and Victoria Valleys.

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At the completion of work in the Taylor Valley it was planned to deploy the expedition to lakes in the Darwin Glacier area for 8 days. For this movement it was proposed to divide the party into three 2 man elements each of which would investigate a particular lake. On the basis of comprehensive field observations by V.U.W.A.E. 6 during the previous summer, and the specific requirements of V.U.W.A.E. 8, a feasible programme was constructed. Logistics to support this movement would have been relatively complex and required both Dakota and helicopter transport.

If no visit to the Darwin were possible after completion of work in the Taylor Valley, the party vas to be moved directly to the Wright and Victoria Valleys. At this stage, the supply dumps already established would be supplemented with party gear and scientific equipment in everyday use. Withdrawal to Scott Base was designed for mid January in order to allow the whole party to spend a week at Black and White Islands before returning to New Zealand.

Prior to the departure of the main party from New Zealand in November. Wilson and House were to spend approximately one week at the South Pole Station, sampling and analysing snow from the station's mine. They would rejoin the main party at Scott Base in mid November. It was also planned that they should make a brief visit to Lake Helen Taylor Valley as early as possible in the season.

PREPARATION

Because the expedition undertook to perform complicated physical and chemical experiments in the Field, a great quantity or scientific apparatus and instruments had to be purchased for the first time. Heavy expenditure was also incurred with party gear because some expensive items such as sleeping bags could not be borrowed as on previous occasions. However, a considerable amount of clothing was loaned by Antarctic Division D.S.I.R. to the expedition, thus keeping down the cost to the University.

This year nothing could be actually purchased through D.S.I.R. or any other organisation so that purchasing and packing of every item required, including food and clothing, was done by the expedition. Many repairs and replacements were needed of equipment already held by the University, especially snow and ice equipment such as ice axes and crampons.

Following the experiences and recommendations of V.U.W.A.E. 6:-

Crampons were expertly fitted by a welding engineer of mountaineering experience after an analysis had been obtained by courtesy of Metals Division, Dominion Laboratory, D.S.I.R. As a result, no breakages occurred and safety on ice was assured at all times.

Sunglasses of good quality and strong materials were purchased, supplied with reinforced cases. No breakages occurred.

Nerde tents and double sleeping bags were used again with equal satisfaction.

Donations were made to the expedition of:- Kodacolour film by Kodak (N.Z.) Ltd.; coffee, tea and "yukchup" by Faggs Coffee Wholes Ltd.; large plastic bags for holding scientific apparatus by on anonymous firm air-sea rescue dinghy for movement and safety on lakes in times of thaw by R.N.Z.A.F.

A full schedule of operations for the summer was formulated and concurred with by N.Z. and U.S. authorities. The expedition's proposed movements were relatively complex especially the 8 day visit to the Darwin Glacier area. Consequently Mr. Prebble accompanied A.D.D.S.I.R, authorities to Christchurch in September and discussed the expedition's plans with the U.S. authorities. As a result the Darwin Movement was made as flexible as possible with regard to its timing and to the number of personnel participating.

Expedition members attended the full Antarctic Training Week at Waiouru in August in order to meet Scott Base and N.Z. field personnel, and to familiarise themselves with base and field procedure and safety. Much scientific equipment for the expedition was designed on the basis of experience gained by V.U.W.A.N.s 5 and 7 and was constructed and packed by expedition members. A great deal of time and effort was put into the preparation of the expedition and was instrumental in the smooth and efficient working that followed in the field.

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Narrative of Activities

Professor Wilson and Dr. House left New Zealand on 31st October and flew from Mc Hurdo to the South Pole Station on 3rd December. They spent 2 weeks at the Pole before returning to Scott Base on November 21st. From Scott Base Wilson and House made a 36 hour visit by helicopter to Lake Helen (Fig. II) Taylor Valley and returned via the Dailey Islands where they examined U.S.A.R.P. drilling operations in the sea ice.

Messrs, Henderson, Hoare, Popplewell and Prebble left New Zealand on November 22nd and the whole party was moved to Lake-Fryxell (Fig. II), Taylor Valley, 2 days later. During this movement supply dumps were established at Lakes Fryxell, Chad, Bonney and Diana in the Taylor Valley; Lakes Vanda, Don Juan and the Upper Wright Glacier in the Wright Valley; and Lakes Webb, Vashka and Vida in the Barwick - Victoria Valleys. At the same time the scientific equipment at Jake Helen was moved to Lake Diana, following the findings of Wilson and House a few days previously. During the employment of the dumps trebble, Henderson, House and Wilson were able to spend a day at Lake Vanda before rejoining the rest of the party at Fryxell.

The expedition remained in the Taylor Valley until January th. During that period Lakes Fryxell, Chad, a large unnamed lake, and two smaller ponds Lake Donnay and Lake Diana were intensively studied. On December 9th it was learned from Scott Base that the Darrain movement would not be possible. Wherever possible the party walked between dumps in the valley. Helicopter support was asked for once and granted in order to move from Bonney to Diana and also to reconnoitre lakes in the Beacon Valley are situated across the crevassed upper Taylor Glacier.

On 23rd December unexpected helicopter support was provided when a chopper dropped in on the camp at Diana. This visit enabled Professor Wilson to accompany U.S.A.R.P. scientists on a brief drilling excursion to the Beacon Valley. On their return trip the VX-6 chopper pilots co-operated in moving V.U.W.A.E. 8 back down the valley in 2 elements:- Prebble, Popplewell, House and Hoare to Lake Fryxell for late observations and Wilson and Henderson to Bonney.

Xmas Day found the party reunited at Bonney. Xmas was celebrated and Dr. Wilson left for Scott Base on 30th December. Some Japanese scientists arrived the next day and New Years Eve was celebrated with them in true Antarctic style. Some samples and cargo were returned to Scott Base with Wilson who visited Cape Evans before returning to New Zealand.

Professor Wellman arrived at Scott Base in the New Year and joined the party during she move to the Wright and Victoria Valleys on January 7th. In this movement dumps already established at Lakes Vida and Vanda and the Upper Wright Glacier were supplemented with party gear and scientific equipment from dumps in the Taylor Valley, Wellman, Hoare and Popplewell were flown to Lake Vanda and House, Henderson and Prebble to Lake Vida. The party at Vida spent 3 days examining the lake and the upper and lower Victoria Valley and Glaciers before walking to Vanda. through Bull Pass.

On the 15th January, Henderson and Prebble walked through the North Fork and Labyrinth to the Upper Wright Glacier, and returned 2 days later. In the meantime, the rest of the party had visisted lake Don Juan in She South Fork.

After some days of snow followed by high winds, the expedition was returned to Scott Base on 19th January. Two further flights were necessary to Withdraw all the samples and equipment.

A reconnaissance of White Island, Black Island and Brown Peninsula. was made by all 5 members, using a helicopter, on 20th January.

The expedition returned to New Zealand with 1400 lbs. of samples on January 25th. The remainder of the cargo was brought back by H.[unclear: M.N.Z.]S. Endeavour in early March.

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RECOMMENDATIONS
Introductory Note:

The character of V.U.[unclear: W.A.E.] has now changed. Previous large expeditions have been essentially geological reconnaissance units mobile, covering large areas of territory and using safe maintain of simple, light, equipment. Logistics have been geared for mobility of personnel on the ground and the special feature of the equipment has been its portability. However, expeditions such as V.U.[unclear: W.A.E.] 8 - the largest of its kind so far - are geochemical and physical investigation teams, stationary in one or more places for considerable lengths of time and involving much varied, complicated and heavy equipment. Movement of personnel on foot with survival gear is just as feasible as in geological reconnaissance units but the scientific equipment is rarely portable, except by helicopter. Consequently many dumps of self contained camp units are needed and modifications in type of camp equipment end food rations are desirable and feasible. The following recommendations ore made:-
1.Provision of a large, light mess tent for cooking, eating and scientific work. This tent should be capable of holding 6 men comfortable. This type of tent is essential for performing analyses, draughting and plotting of field data and maintenance of instruments. However, weatherability should not be sacrificed in the tent design. This tent is recommended to supplement the Neade end Polar 2 man tents at within camps.
2.Variation of the present standard field rations which are designed primarily for geological reconnaissance and sledge parties. When inability of the party is not paramount, a greater variety and weight can be afforded in foodstuffs.
3.The "whole party should attend the entire Antarctic Training Week which is organised in August by Antarctic Division, D.S.I.R. The benefit of getting to know Scott Base and Hew Zealand field personnel and familiarising with base and field procedure and safety cannot be over-emphasised.
4.The use on frozen lakes of 4 point instep crampons particularly when there is danger of treading on or snagging recording wires end instruments. Instep 4 point crampons used by V.U.W.A.E. 8 proved exceptionally strong, light, and easy to put on and take off. They should not be used in crevassed country or glacier travel where they are no substitute for 10 or 12 point crampons.
5.The recommendations of V.U.W.A.E. 6 were adhered to and are reiterated here in brief:-
(i)Expert fitting of crampons.
(ii)Use of Neade tents.
(iii)Use of double sleeping bags.
(iv)Strong sunglasses with reinforced cases.
(v)6 man expeditions for greater efficiency.
6.The use of robust aircraft altimeters rather then delicate, where complex altimeters, and the use of simple but reliable crackeras rather than more complicated models which are suseptible to fouling with sand in the "dry" valleys.
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THE FUTURE

(i)The reconnaisance staged by V.U.W.A.E. 8 to White Island Black Island and Brown Peninsula showed that an expedition of 6 men could profitably spend a month in this area. (See report below)
(ii)The results obtained from Lake. Vanda make it clear that this lake requires further investigation and is ideal for a long term study project. A small party for up to a month each summer could extract valuable records with far reaching application from Lake Vanda.
(iii)Specialised geological problems, especially in the basement complex could be readily examined in the ice free regions, Humorous projects, such as Irizar Granite and Vida Granite, basement dykes end metamorphics lend themselves to close attention.

It is emphasised that the proximity of the dry valleys to Scott Base and Mc Murdo and the ease of safe travel within these ice free areas render then among the safest in Victoria Land. Apart from basement geology and superficial deposits there are numerous geomorphic phenomena awaiting detailed investigation.

RECONNAISANCE
by V.U.W.A.E. 8 of White Island, Black Island and Brown Peninsula. (Fig- I)

20th January, 1964.

A helicopter reconnaisance lasting 5 hours enabled the whole term together to fly over and land on White Island, Black Island and Brown Peninsula in that order. Altogether 5 landings were made, at each of which half an hour was spent on the ground.

The first landing (A in Fig. I) was at the tip of Cape Spencer-Smith, the northern extremity of White Island. The ice free areas of greatest extent on the island are at this end, but they are very limited in area, discontinuous and separated by large tracts of steep snow and ice. Nothing of exceptional interest was found at Cape Spencer-Smith and no outcrops or bare areas of significant extent were seen while flying around the east and south of White Island. Only small, isolated, steep outcrops were exposed. White Island is regarded as being an unpromising and unsuitable place for V.U.W.A.E. to work.

The strotch of shelf ice (White Strait) between White Island and Black Island is rough and crevassed. A crossing on foot by V.U.W.A.E. should definitely not be undertaken.

Black Island was far were encouraging and 2 landings were made - (B) of the eastern side of the island in saddle west of Scallop Hill, and, after circling over the northern and eastern slopes of the island, (C) on lit. Nubian - near the summit of the island. Considerable variation in the type of volcanics and numerous xenoliths were found in exposures under Scallop Hill and on lit. Mubian. Unusual geomorphic features were observed near the shore of the island. Travel by foot on Black Island would be safe and feasible. Most of the island is snow and ice free but snow patches are frequent enough to obviate water supply problems. The island is large and would require at least 3 main dumps to support 2 week's field work.

The expanse of shelf ice between Black Island and Brown Peninsula is definitely out for V.U.W.A.E. The Ross Ice Shelf here is badly crevassed, very rough and studded with a labyrinth of welt pools. Quite apart from the danger in crossing such territory at would be impossible to carry a large mount of equipment and staples over this ice. Even dog and toboggan sledging might be very difficult over this strotch and these modes of transport are best left to parties experienced in such methods. The first landing on Brown Peninsula (D) was made near the isthmus, on the Koettlitz side. After flying along the western side of the peninsula the last landing (E.) was [gap — reason: illegible] as far as possible towards the northern tip of the peninsula.

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Brown Peninsula is interesting from many viewpoints - basements. geology, superficial deposits ice-cored ground limnology end botany. Towards the tip of the peninsula lakes of many kinds are abundant ice covered, frosen to the bottom, completely unfrozen and saline and algae-containing. Where was again much variation in the volcanies and monoliths were large and numerous. Fossiliferous superficial deposits and deposits of wind blown rounded grit with unusual characteristics were prevalent near the northern tip of the peninsula. Travel on foot is safe and feasible right back to the high slopes of lit. Discovery. A.V.U.W.A.E. could profitably spend 3 weeks on Brown Peninsula supported by A dumps.

To sum up, an expedition of 6 men, supported by helicopter transport, could spend up to 5 weeks on Black Island and Brown Peninsula.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expedition No. 8 wishes to especially thank:-

Antarctic Division D.S.I.R. (N.Z.) for advice and material help during the preparation and time of the expedition and for the loan of gear.

The services of the united States of American for air transport to and from Antarctic and particularly the air support received while in Antarctica.

Major Russell Rawle, Leader Scott Base, for his help and assistance and his interest in our expedition.

Mr, Bill Austin, U.S.A.R.P. representative Mc Murdo for his help and assistance, while we were in Antarctica.

All the personnel at Scott Base for their hospitality and help.

Professor Clark, Geogogy Department. Victoria University of Wellington, who has made these expeditions possible.

Other grateful acknowledgements are made to:-

University Grants Committee for the main financial aid.

Viotoria University of Wellington for grant.

Geology Department, V.U.W. for aid with instruments Metals Division of the Dominion Laboratory for analysis of crampon metal.

Lands and Survey Dept. for aerial photographs.

University photographers for copying aerial photographs and processing expedition film.

The following firms and organisations are kindly thanked for their generous donations:-
  • Faggs Coffee Wholesale Ltd. for most appreciated coffee, tea and experimental food extract.
  • Kodak (N.Z.) Ltd., for Kodacolour Film.
  • R.N.Z.A.F. for rescue dinghy.

Last, but certainly not least, we wish to thank our parents, wives and close friends for tolerating our absence, providing luxuries to aid our diet and maintaining a steady stream of mail.