SMAD. An Organ of Student Opinion. 1936. Volume 7. Number 16.
Naples
Naples
Having in recent months been one of the centres of activity in the conflict by which Italy seeks to further the civilisation of the blacks-or the blackening of civilisation—Naples is once more a city of topical importance.
At the time of my visit—October 1935—most of the troops had left for Abyssinia, but military activity was still very much in evidence. One of the observations that was driven home immediately on arrival was that to be anybody in Naples it was apprently necessary to wear a uniform. These uniforms ranged from the fairly utilitarian "Blackshirt" to creations of a nature only conceivable by the Latins. Red and gold braid are very popular but apparently convey little. Several gentlemen, for example, were attired in navy blue uniforms resplendent with yards of red and gold braid and numerous tassels, the whole surmounted by a three-cornered hat decorated with a multi-hued cockade. On enquiry, I learned that this was the uniform of a body of honorary police-and not of anadmiral or field marshal as I had supposed.
The middle and upper class residential and business areas were picturesque and interesting. More interesting but less picturesque were the conditions under which the majority of the population appeared to live. In an atmosphere of garlic and filth the average Neapolitan seems to eke out an existence making and consuming macaroni.
Perhaps the prevailing trouble had something to do with it, but of organised industry there appeared to be very little. That the country generally was in a bad way economically there can be no doubt. Italian money would buy nothing. I personally exchanged a sum of money into Italian Lira at 60 L. to the pound sterling, but discovered that the taxix, etc., all wanted to be paid in English money. On my return to the wharf bank to convert my liras back into sterling, I discovered that they would only do so at the rate of 110 lira to the pound. Apparently the real value of Italian money was much less than the official bank rate and quite a healthy currency smuggling business was in operation. Any proptest at this treatment was received with a shrug of the shoulders and the illuminating reply, "Sanctions, Signor!"
For tourists going ashore in Naples the most essential accompaniment is a good supply of cigarettes. By heavy taxation, the cost of smoking has been made prohibitive in Italy, and the visitor who goes ashore with a hundred cigarettes can travel where he will. buy what he wants and bribe the police or other officials should he get into difficulties.
Viewed from afar Naples with its beautiful bay, Pompeii, Vesuvius and the Isle of Capri presents a spectacle which has long provided sterling subject matter for the artistic fraternity but, like many similar spectacles closer examination does not tend to enhance the beauty.
His exploits need no teller,
Yet everyone who's seen him work
Says he's a darn good feller.
—Wot.