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The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Volume 85

Harbours

page 12

Harbours.

The coast line bears towards the south-east, and is formed of successions of soft sandy beaches, backed by stunted scrub covered dunes; craggy cliffs of quartzite, slate, serpentine, limestone, and granitic rocks, ranging from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet in height, sometimes found jutting out into the sea, with huge isolated detached masses, boldly defying the angry ocean; and scattered here and there high ranges stand out in bold relief a few miles from the shore. Toward the southern part the outline is even more rugged, where barren hills rise perpendicularly from the waters of the ocean. Here and there are two large indentations—namely, Macquarie Harbour and Port Davey. The latter is the only harbour on the coast where large ships can enter; it is a magnificent sheet of water, completely land-locked and sheltered by high quartzite ridges. Near the entrance to the Davey River, located in the north-east portion of the harbour, a settlement was formed many years ago by men engaged in pine cutting, but owing to the exhaustion of that valuable timber in places of easy access, and an in hospitable climate, all that now remains of that busy settlement is a deserted village, with decayed and desolate huts and once well kept gardens grown wild. About a quarter of a mile from the narrow rocky entrance of Macquarie Harbour the soundings average two fathoms; but as this ocean bar is protected by a long point formed by Cape Sorell, small steamers are able to cross and enter in unless the weather is exceptionally stormy. The harbour extends twenty miles towards the south-east, and its northern shores are formed principally of raised beaches and upheaved submerged forests, where, embedded in blue clay, may be found huge tress of semi-lignite containing impressions of existing plants. Here we do not find the bold outline or the grand scenery of Port Davey; yet beautiful bays and inlets covered with flocks of black swan, jutting promontories, small timbered Islands, and distant views of prominent mountains everywhere delight the eye of the traveller.

On Sarah Island, situated in close proximity to the outlet of Birch Inlet and lying opposite to the steep spurs of Mount Sorell, the extreme southernmost point of the West Coast Range, a penal settlement was formed in 1822, but after twelve years was disbanded, and now ruined dungeons, decayed log-constructed docks, tall fruit trees clad with the Macquarie Harbour vine ([unclear: MwktenbtcHa ad pressa]), half hidden by luxuriantly growing raspberry canes and English rye-grass, are the only indications and monuments of prison work, and of the first population on the West Coast. For a lapse of over forty years the natural beauties of this lovely spot remained undisturbed by civilization until the mineral discoveries at Mount Heemskirk brought enterprising miners and citizens to Long Bay and Swan Basin, who have erected two small townships on a large area of land now reserved and surveyed by the Lands Department for the future town of Strahan.

Trial Harbour is a small open rock-bound bay, exposed to the prevailing winds, therefore impracticable for navigation except in extremely fine weather; being only two miles distant from Mount Heemskirk, it served as the main depot for landing the heavy plants used in classifying page 13 and crushing the tin ores of this locality, and consequently saved mining companies a large expenditure which would have been entailed if their machinery had been brought over the soft beaches and treacherous Henty River from Macquarie Harbour.

The only other inhabited port is the Pieman River, settled immediately after the stanniferous discoveries at Mount Heemskirk. Yet there are other slightly known inlets in which fishing and piners smacks frequently anchor with sufficient safety in stormy weather, and there is little doubt that these small havens will eventually become as useful depots to future mining districtsas Trial Harbour has been to Mount Heemskirk,