Auckland "Star."

That the trip to the Urewera district was not without its difficulties and dangers may be gleamed from the following report furnished to the Auckland Star of the 9th April:—

"Wairoa, this day.

"The Premier and party have just arrived safe and well at Frasertown, about five miles from Wairoa. We have had some thrilling experiences. The country is the roughest and most dangerous to travel through that I have ever met with. The floods on Monday week have played havoc with the tracks, which were ever bad at the best.

"From Timitimi to Lake Waikare-moana we had to do on foot twenty-four miles, and after eleven hours' travelling we reached the Ruatahana side of the lake just in time to find the canoes gone, the Maoris having come to the conclusion that owing to the bad weather and rough country the party had gone some other way. There was an old canoe on the bank, so some of the party went round the lake yesterday morning and lit fires, which could be seen from the Native pa on the other side of the lake. A miserable day was spent, as the supply of food was run out, and short rations was the order of the day. The Premier's food yesterday consisted of a pigeon which the Maori guide had shot, and the novelty was relished exceedingly. It reminded him of his old digging days.

"In the afternoon the Maoris came with canoes, but advised the party that there was a risk in crossing, as there was a gale blowing and the seas were running very high. There was hunger on the one side and a drenching on the other, so 'All aboard!' was the order. Camp was struck, and into the canoe the party went. All went well until the canoe got to the middle of the lake, when it commenced to blow a gale, and the seas kept coming into the canoe, and it was a case of bale for existence. The Maoris behaved splendidly, and it was owing to their skill, courage, and coolness that the party reached terra firma. The party on shore gave up all as lost, for they saw nothing at one time but the canoe. Some of the party in the canoe lost all heart, some took off their boots and made preparations for a swim, and one of the party wanted to know why the Maoris did not make for the nearest land. Mr. Carroll and the Premier took the matter very coolly. The former simply said, 'Leave the Maoris alone. They value their lives just as well as we do ours.' After battling for about two hours, the canoe was beached stem first into one of the coves to the west of the usual landing-place. The party were drenched through and through, but this was all forgotten on being landed safely.

"Mr. Robson, Mr. Lambert, and Mr. Johnson gave the Premier a hearty welcome, and expressed their gratitude at seeing the party landed safely. The Premier said of all the welcomes given on the trip none was so welcome as that accorded; in fact, there was no shore which he was so pleased to set foot on as that on the south bank of Lake Waikare-moana.

"The party then proceeded to the Maori pa, and after food the Premier received addresses from the Natives, and delivered one lasting over an hour, and at the conclusion the Natives expressed themselves delighted at having their parent, as they called Mr. Seddon, amongst them. In fact, right through the journey the welcome from the Natives has been very enthusiastic.

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"The Premier has seen all the Urewera hapus, the Waitangas at Galatea, and Wheaweras at Waiti, and all expressed themselves as desirous of working with the Government in keeping the laws and living in friendship with the Europeans.

"To-night the Premier is to be banqueted at Wairoa."

In connection with the Urewera country, the following interesting report of Mr. Mueller, Crown Lands Commissioner, taken from the Auckland Star, will further indorse the Premier's statement that the differences between the races there are practically settled. It is also gratifying to note that Mr. Mueller considers a large part of the land admirably adapted for settlement. The indications of gold form another encouraging feature in the Commissioner's report:—

"On Saturday evening, Mr. Mueller, Commissioner of Crown Lands, returned by steamer from Ohiwa, after his recent tour with the Premier's party in the Urewera country. Mr. Mueller states that about Ruatoki there is a large amount of good land for settlement—land absolutely ploughable, and very different to what the party found in the southern parts of the Urewera country. From Ruatoki they went to Galatea, and from thence to Ahikereru and Te Whaiti, a Native settlement. The road lies along the old Constabulary track formed in the time of the war. It traverses about twelve miles of open land and seven miles of bush, coming out on open fern-lands on which the Native village stands. The Premier's party received every hospitality from the Natives, and had a meeting with them. They went down to Ruatahuna, one of the famous strongholds of the Ureweras in the war time, and not far from it was one of the early mission settlements. It is now marked by the densest masses of sweetbriar that could be imagined—in full fruit, with red berries—looking at a distance like a painted plateau, and can be seen miles away. The land in the Whakatane and Waimana Valleys was found to be very good, but the area which will stand cultivation is exceedingly small. In fact, the whole of the cultivable land seen in these valleys did not amount to more than 8,000 acres, all the rest being mountainous country. The ranges were steep but not precipitous, and were covered with good soil, and producing, wherever grass or clover had an opportunity of striking root, most luxuriant growth. In several places they saw cocksfoot 4ft. high. They had a meeting at Ruatahuna with the Natives, and were the first Europeans allowed to enter Te Kuti's runanga house. They had to hand over pipes, tobacco, matches, and knives, as it was tapued, and no one in possession of these articles would be allowed to enter. It was excellently carved and painted, but the carvings were of the modern type, and by no means as beautiful as can be seen at Whatiwhatihoe, or those which were executed at Oruanui, Taupo.

"From Ruatahuna they went back to Te Whaiti, and stayed there for one night. Next morning they started for Te Mimi, and this was the worst journey for the horses, being up and down hill. They commenced the journey at daybreak, and were overtaken by night in one of the steep ravines, there just being room enough for two or three small tents. They pitched tents, tied up the horses, and huddled together for the night, the Maoris sleeping round the camp-fire. At daylight they pressed on, reaching Te Mimi at noon, and held a meeting with the Natives. It is one of these out-of-the-way places where three-fourths of the younger Natives had hardly ever seen a European.

"On the following day the journey had to be made on foot, the Maoris carrying the swags, the route being to Lake Waikare-moana. The road from beginning to end almost crossed the run of the terraces, and it was simply a succession of ascents-and descents. While crossing the creeks, a sharp lookout was kept by those of the party who had mining experience for signs of gold. Several layers of wash and most likely-looking stuff were passed. There was no time for prospecting, as they knew that their energies would be taxed to the utmost to reach Lake Waikare-moana that night. The party also crossed several quartz reefs, three or four of them composed of dim hungry-looking quartz; but amongst the pieces picked up in one of the creeks, at least one showed unmistakably gold in the quartz. It will be many years before that country can be opened up and made fairly accessible for miners, but there can be no doubt it will prove gold-bearing. Alluvial mining, as far as could be seen, will never be carried out on an extensive scale in the Urewera country, but quartz-mining and reefing may develop into great importance. About seven miles from Lake Wai-kare-moana the party struck a deep creek with sandstone bottom, gouged out and widened to an average of fully a chain. Down this creek the party made up the lost ground of the previous climbing. The Premier, heavy man though he is, kept the lead for fully five miles, no doubt owing to his alertness in following West Coast parties. However, when the party reached the lake at dark he was clean done up, and could not have gone another half-mile to save his life.

"When the party got across Lake Waikare-moana they went to a meeting-house at a kainga three miles below the lake, and were well received and entertained. The evening was devoted to harmony; English, Irish, and Scotch songs were sung, and after Christy Minstrel selections were exhausted they fell back on Moody and Sankey, the Maoris coming in with a few waiatas and speechifying. This went on until half-past 2 o'clock in the morning, when matters got quieter and more subdued towards daylight. Then the tinkling bell called them to Hauhau morning prayers: men, women, and children join in the responses. The same ceremonial took place at 6 page 108 o'clock at night, the prayers being a compound of Christianity, Judaism, and heathenism. Saturday was the Hauhau Sunday, and Hauhaus stick largely to the Old Testament.

"Leaving Lake Waikare-moana they got horses and went to Wairoa. On the road the Premier broke the record in riding from the meeting-place to Frasertown in the shortest time, although part of the road was washed away and a detour had to be made.

"At the Wairoa, and near Gisborne, the Premier had meetings with the Natives and received deputations, after which he went South.

"Mr. Mueller, according to promise, escorted a Urewera chief, Tupaea, from Gisborne to Whakatane by the Motu track, one of the routes held in fear by those who have to traverse it in the winter time. As it was, the last day's journey commenced at 6 a.m. and lasted till half-past 8 p.m., the women being fourteen hours in the saddle to reach Opotiki. From thence Mr. Mueller made two trips inland to examine two large blocks at the upper ridges of the Waioeka, and another south of Ohiwa Harbour, with a view of constructing roads giving access thereto. The Chairman of the Whakatane County (Mr. Abbott) and several Councillors accompanied Mr. Mueller, and the party returned exceedingly well pleased to find a good passable road through Nukuhou and Waimana Gorges, which, owing to the height of the range, prove to be the only means of access to this large block of good land. Mr. Mueller, as already stated, returned by sea from Ohiwa to Auckland.

"Mr. Mueller says there will be no further trouble with the Ureweras. The past is past, and they will trust the Government and the Europeans to deal fairly and justly by them in future. They recognise that the balance of power has passed from the Native people to the Europeans, and that it is futile to oppose the extension of settlement."

That the Premier's trip to the Urewera country must be productive of great good cannot be doubted. The following report of the farewell meeting, taken from the Auckland Star of the 3rd April, establishes the fact that relations of a most cordial character have been established with the tribe. The accompanying article from the same journal of the 4th April compliments the Premier on the tact and judgment displayed by him in dealing with a tribe which has heretofore not been on the most friendly terms with our settlers:—

"Whakatane, Tuesday.

"The Premier finished his meeting with the Urewera tribe late last night. The result has exceeded the most sanguine expectations, and Native troubles in this part of the colony are practically at an and. The chiefs assured the Premier that the Tuhie, or Urewera, will ever respect and obey the laws, and no matter what other tribes may do they will never again assist in any movement antagonistic to the Government, but will, if necessary, help and strengthen the Government. They have requested a school being established at Ruatoki, also that the Land Court for investigating titles shall be held at Ruatoki. This will no doubt astonish all who know the Ruatoki and its past history, for it was the Hauhau centre and the stronghold of the disaffected Natives.

"The Premier promised to send them a Union Jack flag when the chief notifies him that a flagstaff has been erected.

"The chief asked Mr. Seddon to withdraw the warrants that are still unexecuted upon some offenders over past troubles. He told them that the law must take its course, that the law was more powerful than the Government. If they surrendered he would, seeing now that the surveys have been made, favourably consider and recommend the Government to remit the sentences, but would not make any promise. They must express contrition and obey the law.

"Kereru sends his nephew with the Premier to-morrow, to act as guide through the Urewera country, and the final act of the meeting was that Kereru presented the Premier with the Urewera taiaha, which belonged to their ancestor Rongokaeke, and through which ancestor they claim the Ruatoki Block. In presenting it, the old chief was very much affected. He said he gave it to the chief rangatira of the pakeha, and it would be in good hands, and those of a friend. The Natives would not again require the weapon. It was now a token of peace.

"The Premier replied that the Government would see justice done to him and his tribe and to the whole of the Native race, and that their faith in the Government was not misplaced. He and others think to see us part on our journey to-morrow morning.

"This is a little different to what occurred a little over three years ago, when Governor Onslow thought it wise to turn back after getting as far as Ruatoki.

"The Ministerial party should reach Wairoa about Friday next."