Taupo to Tokaanu, Pipinki, and Whanganui

or in other words, the hot springs smile at the dusty traveller, and invite him to bathe. A start for the ascent of Tongariro, Ngauruhoe or Ruapehu may be made from Tokaanu, guides for either expedition being obtainable in the district. Mount Kakaramea near by, although extinct as a volcano, is still a verv interesting object. From the lower part of the north side boiling water and hot stream issue forth with much pomp and circumstance, as though a hundred of nature's triple expansion steam engines were at work within. At the foot of the mountain is Te Rapa, the village of the renowned Te Heuheu, which was destroyed by a landslip in r 815. Visitors who are interested in the Maoris should invest in a book of charmingly character-istic Maori stories, "Tales of a Dying

Maori Chief

Muir and Moodle, photos

Whanganui

Maori Girls

Race," by A. A. Grace. These contes are the only Maori stories with which the writer is acquainted which faithfully reflect the Maori character and his mode of thought and expression. The last story, "A White Wahine" although by no means the best tale in the book, is interesting from the fact that it is true, the "white Wahine" being the author's mother, and the scene of the story is laid at Te Heuheu's village. The distance from Tokaanu to Pipiriki is 85 miles, and the coach journey occupies two days, the necessary halt for the night being made at Waiouru, where there is an accommodation house. During the First day the Tongariro group is well in sight, and many beautiful streams, abound-ing in the "lusty trout," come as a relief to the eye of the passenger. Near Karioi are some fine waterfalls, and one of these on the Waitangi (weeping water) Stream is passed by the coach. On the second day the road winds through the gorgeous forest of Waimarino (calm water). The road is shaded by stately rimu, kahikatea, and totara trees, and in the summer time the beauteous blossoms of the rata splash the woods with crimson.

Pipiriki is a small settlement on the banks of the Whanganui River. There is a most excellent accommoda-tion house here, lighted throughout by electricity; and shooting, fishing, and canoeing serve to make Pipiriki an ideal spot for a thoroughly enjoyable holiday, "far from the madding crowd's ignoble strife." Visitors should by no means miss the trip to the upper reaches of the river as far as Parinui or the Tangarakau. Ten years ago the trip from Pipiriki to Whanganui could only be made by Maori canoe; now, thanks to the enterprise of Mr. Hatrick, the pioneer of steam navigation on the river, the voyage from Pipiriki to Whanganui can be made in well-appointed river steamers in about seven hours and a half. Many have written of

Whanganui River

Denton, photos

Denton, photos

the beauties of the river, but its wealth of magnificent scenery beggars description. Here is one vivid verbal "impression" sketched many years ago by an artist who spent some months in painting the many beauties that he knew and felt so well:—

"New Zealand has often been called a show country, and certainly the sights and scenes within the length and breadth of this island are unique and various, and will, no doubt, attract an ever-increasing number of tourists from other parts, and among them all the wild and romantic scenery of the Upper Whanganui must soon take a leading place. Thc broad river, always interesting and beautiful both in the rapids and in the long reaches of still water, the steep rocky banks, the lofty trees, with white cliff faces peeping out, tier above tier, from the varied foliage and blossoms of the trees, the graceful palms, and the beautiful ferns rising as thick as they can stand (acres of them), from the water's edge right up to the top of some of the mountains, the natives in their long canoes and picturesque costumes, all combine to make up a scene of the most enchantine loveliness. The caves, near Pipiriki, are very extensive,. and rich in stalactites. The view of the entrance is like a fairy scene; the ferns and lichens hanging round form a fitting frame, and from the ceiling hangs, by a slender cord, a mass of living creepers like a great chandelier. There are some really magnificent views about Atene. A mile or two below Pipiriki the banks rise to a great height, and are very imposing. From the caves, for some 10 or 12 miles, the river flows between perpendicular walls of rock, all festooned with a hanging drapery of ferns and lichens, whilst higher still rise lofty hills covered with luxuriant

Whanganui River

bush. Over these cliffs fall numcrous streams, making a succession of waterfalls, all different and all beautiful: now a thin gauze-like sheet of water falling from a projecting cliff high above our heads; then a roaring cascade of sparkling water; again, one away back in a deep dark ravine almost hidden by ferns and creepers. In several places two or three cascades are visible at the same time, and some of them are double falls. Thus the visitor is led on from one fine sight to another, his admiration growing at every turn; again and again he is ready to declare the view inimitable, until the next turn of the river reveáls new beauties, and calls forth new praises, when at last the interest culminates at the Manganui-a-te-Ao, where an immense cliff rises like a mighty pillar on the right, and the rivers meet like two lanes in a great city walled in by many massive piles of masonry."

On the Whanganui River

Thus another writer:

"The ascending of the Whanganui River was full of variety and incident. Past kainga after kainga, with their typical wharepuni (mceting houses), pataka, and whata (food stores), their groups of Maoris—the women dressed in all the colours of the spectrum,—their frail-looking, but, in the hands of the skilful Maoris, safe tree canoes, their potato, maize, and tobacco patches, their pa-tuna (eel weirs), and all the other items that go to make up the picturesque Maori setllement.

"The Whanganui has been called the Rhine of New Zealand. So it is in a sense. The Rhine is the most beautiful, scenic, and perhaps, historically, the most interesting river in Europe; and, in all probability, the Whanganui occupies the same rank amongst the New Zealand rivers. But there the analogy ends. Its banks are not the result of centuries of civilization; so it hasn't the ruined castles, walled cities, vineyards, and the cultivated landscapes

The Cave Falls Whanganui River

Denton photos

of the Rhine. Its beauty is its naturalness, freshness, restfulness. Tall slender ponga (a kind of tree fern) crowned with brilliant green fronds; rimu—fountains of misty green; rata, whose roots lace the ground like serpents, and whose great spreading heads are bedecked at Christmas time with gorgeous scarlet blossoms; bright, glossy totara—these, while other trees clothe the steep mountains on the right hand and on the left. Now the boat lingers in front of some cave, whose entrance is concealed by a veil of delicate creepers and hanging growths; now pauses for a while where some torrent leaps from the towering cliff overhead; now is run aground at the entrance to some dark gorge, where the clear notes of the bell bird can be heard tolling in the cool forest depths. The tui and the kaka are the chief birds whose cries or songs are heard when moving on the river.

"We left Whanganui at 7 a.m. The first thing that struck us was the almost continuous, deep edging of willows on both sides, One would think that they had been planted systematically; but it is said that though the early missionaries planted a few, most have sprung from twigs or branches brought down by the current, especially in times of flood. Apart from the ever-changing landscape and the interest aroused whenever a Maori settlement came in sight, the scaling of the rapids was full of excitement.

Messers Hatrick and Co.'s Steamers

We were on the Wairere, one of the most powerful of Hatrick and Co.'s fleet of steamers; yet at times, with the aid of a couple of Maoris poling with all their might, the steamer could hardly malte headway. Indeed, it has been found necessary to fasten steel cables in shore, and to haul the steamers over some of the rapids with cable and winch. The steamer forges her way as far as possible, then the cable lying in the bed of the stream is grappled for with hooks on long poles. Perhaps a dozen casts have to be made beforc the rope is secured. In the mean-time the more timid souls are wonderine; what will happen if the cable isn't caught; but the captain is wide awake, knows his work thoroughly, and is ready for all emergencies; and if the worst comes the anchor can be dropped or a skilful retreat beaten. Shooting the rapids—there are about fifty in all, including those in the upper reaches—is even more exhilarating; but with a captain who is familiar with every foot of the river—and ours was acknowledged to be one of the safest—and with Maoris who take to the river as ducks to water, tourists and excursionists need not worry.

Whanganui River

"The Whanganui trip is done in two sections—the Pipiriki, and above,—and no one should miss the second if time will allow. Above, the banks become almost perpendicular, from any height to 4oo ft. or 500 ft., and one can quite believe the theory that the river hasn't a bed of its own, but runs in a volcanic fissure, cutting through valleys at right angles. Shortly after leaving Pipiriki in the twin-screw steamer the company generally uses for this section,

Manganui-a-te-ao, Whanganui River

Denton, photos

Ohura Falls, Whanganui River

Denton, photo

one of the most formidable rapids on the river is encountered. This being surmounted, a little further on the caves are reached. The first is truly magnificent. At the far end of an immense natural hall a torrent comes pouring down from the dark interior—goodness knows from where—and falling with a deafening roar, a solid mass rushes on to join the 'brimming river.' Further up the snow stream from Ruapehu adds its tribute to the glorious river. About here, too, is what is called the Drop Scene; but for that matter almost any part of the upper reaches will answer to that description, especially that inset part of the bank over which the water falls in the form of an ideal shower bath for giants."

Maori Carving

Maori and Whare

"Pipiriki, which presents a cheerful green face to the river, and rests on a series of undulating slopes, is still in its primitive or embryo stage. Its most conspicuous ornament and valuable asset is Pipiriki House, the home of the tourist, where Mr. Howard presides, and a bevy of housemaids try to make the traveller feel at home. A well-kept lawn, lined with flowers, embellishes the slope in front. The surroundings of Pipiriki are much broken, the hill-slopes rising rather abruptly for 600 feet, but the soil is fairly good, and fruit trees and vegetables seem to do well. Behind the township is a well-timbered hill, reserved as a domain. The Maori proprietors occupy comfortable houses and whare on both sides of the river."

The whole navigable length of the Whanganui River mav be exploited bv taking train from Auckland or Rotorua to 'Taumarunui, thence descending the great river by launch to Pipiriki (one day, 80 miles), thence by steamer to Whanganui (59 miles).

Mangaio Creek, Whanganui River

Denton, photo

Whanganui, which is the centre of a splendid pastoral district, is well worth a visit. A very beautiful view of the town and the river may be obtained from Flagstaff Hill The freezing works at the Heads are interesting, and the museum, containing a fine assortment of Maori curios should also be seen by the visitor.

Hotels.—Chavannes', The Rutland, and Foster's are all first-class houses, and the tariff ranges from 8s. to 10 s. a day

Maori Art

Maori Women

New Plymouth is the seaport of a district remarable for the extent of its dairying industry. Visitors to this prerrily situated town should see one of the butter factories in the neighbourhood. The proce of land has nearly doubled in value around New Plymoutj, Inglewood, and Stratford in the last dew yeats, owing to the dairying industry.

Hotels.—The Criterion, White Hart, and Terminus; tariff 7s. 6d. to 10s. per day.

Plplriki

Muir and Moodie, photos

The Recreation Ground is one of the sights of the town. It is well laid out, and commands a fine view of Mt. Egmont (8,260 feet). Tourists with mountaineering proclivi-lies can make arrangements for the ascent of Egmont. A buggy or lamian can be obtained at local livery stables, for various drives in the country round about. An interesting drive is that to Parihaka, a very large Maori kainga. There is also excellent trout-fishing in the district. Between New Plymouth and Wellington a dining car is run on the express trains. Refreshments may be obtained at Hawera, Atamoho, Halcombe, and Palmerston.

Whanganui Rlver

Denton, photo

Stratford is a rapidly growing town, and the centre of an already extensive and expanding dairying industry. It is 30 miles from New Plymouth, and it is from here that the coach leaves every Monday, during summer season, to meet Messrs. Hatrick and Co.'s steamer on the Tangarakau for the trip down this river and the Whanganui—104 miles of most charming river scenery to be met with anywhere in the the world. Comfortable hotel accommodation may be had at Stratford.

Trains leave Whanganui thrice daily for Palmerston, but the tourist is advised to travel by the express which leaves at about mid-day.

Palmerston is a growing town, built around a large square, and has excellent hotel accommodation. There is good fishing in the district, and a drive through the famous Manawatu Gorge can be confidently recommended to the

New Plymouth [unclear: Beeakwater]

Collis, photo

A Maori Belle

Iles photos

visitor. Trains leave Palmerston every day for Napier and Wellington.

Napier is a charming seaport, and the capital of the Hawke's Bay district.

Hotels.— The Masonic and Criterion; tariff, 10s. a day.

Thc climate is very fine, and Napier enjoys more sunshine than almost any other town in New Zealand except Nelson and Blenheim. There is good fishing in the district. Trains leave Napier every day for Wellington, and coaches leave for Taupo en route to Rotorua or Pipiriki.

New Plymouth Recreation Grounds, Mt. Egmont in Distance

Collis, photo

Lake Waikaremoana and Urewera Country.—The most beautiful of all the lakes in the North Island is Waikaremoana, the "Sea of the Rippling Waters." It

Napier

Muir and Moodie photo

lies between the rugged Urewera country and the plains 'which slope down to Hawke's Bay, and is about 36 miles distant from the sea, with an elevation of 2,050 feet above Ee ocean level. It has been said that "of all the New Bealand lakes, Waikaremoana stands second for beauty, Manapouri taking first place." Its coast-line is of very great extent, owing to the number of its arms, which run far into the hollows of the encircling mountains. Nearly everywlere the grand forest

Mt. Egmont from Stratford

Collis, photo

Waikaremoana by Moonlight

grows down to the edge of the clear deep lake; on the eastern side magnificent cliffs rise in places close on 2000 feet above the lake. Everywhere the lake shores are gemmed with delightful pleasure-nooks, offering irresistible attractions to summer picnickers; mountain creeks add their streams to the wide waters, and there are several fine cascades, notably the Mokau, Aniwaniwa, and Papa-o-korito. There is a Government oil-launch on the lake, besides good rowing boats. The lake and its tributan-streams are very well stocked with trout, and splendid sport may be had by the angler.

On the shores of the lake at Whaitiri—a drive of 42 miles from Wairoa, Hawke's Bay, via Frasertown—stands the new Government accommodation house for tourists, a comfortable and well-furnished establishment. There are eight single and two double bedrooms, besides dining-room drawing-room, smoking-room, etc., and the house is one which the visitor would little expect to find in such a remote region, It stands on a headland commanding a beauti ful view of the lake and the surrounding forests and mountains.

Papa-o-korito Falls, Lake Waikaremoana

Tourist Department photo

Many delightful days may be spent in cruising round the like, and in picnicking daily in fresh scenes of sylvan beauty. Wooded islets, white sandy beaches, little secluded coves and bold promontorios thickly wooded, are some of the features of Waikaremoana. The greatest depth of the lake is 846 feet. The most beautiful part of this grand sheet of water is the Wairau-moana arm, which is entered through the historic Strait of Manaia, across which the noted rebel leader, Te Kooti, swam his stolen horses in the

Lake House," Lake Waikaremoana Government Accommodation House

Tourist Dept. photo

old war-days. The great cliff of Panekiri, rising almost perpendicularly from the water, is one of the sights of the cruise. Innumerable are the historic spots, renowned in the annals of Maori warfare, studded along the lake shores. Matuahu and Matakitaki, not far from the Mokau waterfall, are two ruined hill-forts held by the Hau-haus in 1869 against the Government forees. Onepoto, where the coach road from Wairoa first strikes the lake, was an important militarv post over thirty years ago, when the sound of the bugle was heard in the land. The forests around Lake Waikaremoana have been set aside as a sanctuary for game, and no shooting is permitted therein.

Waikaremoana is reached by coach from Waitoa (Hawke's Hay) and Frasertown; eoastal steamers run from Napier to Wairoa. It may also be reached by vehicle from Gisborne. A coach road is in course of construction from the north to Waikaremoana, which will eventually enable

In Mokau Inlet, Lake Waikaremoana

Tourist Dept. photo

the through trip to be made by coach from Rotorua via Galatea through the celebrated Urewera country to the lake, and thence to the East Coast. At present, however, the vehicle road from Rotorua stops short between Te Whaiti and Ruatahuna, over 20 miles from the lake, and the intervening journey across the forest-clad shoulders of the Huiarau ranges must be made on horseback or on foot.

The Urewera country—or Tuhoe-land, as it is officially known—is a rough broken region of mountain, forest, and stream, bounded by the Kaingaroa Plains on the west, by the Whakatane and adjacent valleys on the north, and extending south to Waikaremoana. The district itself is

Panekiri, Waikaremoana

Tourist Dept. photo

interesting because of its remarkably fine scenery, but more particularly because of its inhabitants—about a thousand natives of the Urewera or Tuhoe tribe. These people, whose villages are scattered here and there along the more fertile patches in the bush-girt valleys, were the last in New Zealand to submit to the Pakeha and his works. In the old war-times their country was invaded several times by Government forces, but there was little glory in fighting

Part of a Lot of 106 Rainbow Trout taken at Lake Waikaremoana

these savage wily mountaineers, to whom the dark forests were as familiar as their low-eaved totara-bark-roofed huts. The Tuhoe people, far removed from the busy outside world, are an interesting study. Many old customs still survive in this mountain land, such as the practice of bird-catching by means of cunningly devised snares; the arts of mat-weaving, of carving, etc. The natives wear Europea clothcs, but their ways and thoughts are those of the primitive Maori. Superstition is strong upon their hearts, and many and weird are their ancient beliefs. The tapu institution has not died out in Tuhoe-land; the belief in makutu or witchcraft still prevails.

Mataatua, the central village of Tuhoe-land, is 80 miles from Rotorua. The first day's journey from Rotorua ends at Galatea, on the banks of the Rangitaiki, where there is an accommodation house; the next day takes the traveller through the bush and mountain lands to Te Whaiti and then to Mataatua, which is pleasantly situated in the romantic valley of Ruatahuna. Here one of the sights is the large carved meeting-house "Te-Whai-a-te-Motu," which was built by the Urewera for Te Kooti. At present Mataatua can only be reached on horseback from Te Whaiti.

A Favourite Spot for Game, Tuhoe Country

Tourist Dept photos

The bush road to Mataatua from Te Whaiti the first native settlcmcnt reached bv the (Galalea rute) passes through some very fine scenery. Kn places it mounts up many hundreds of feet het'r above the rushing rivers, a tliin white line pharp-cut in the rocky mountain sideT Above, Kd on every hand, the green forests clothe the ivage nakedness of the confused ranges. The javy munnur of the unseen river pouring down ner its stony bed rises from the far depths; now aiul then the deeper roar of a waterfall. Bird-Sotes are frequent; the pleasant ding-dong of Bie koko lui) and the harsh scream of the kaka barrot are oftenest heard. Graceful tree-ferns Relieve the sombre bush with their delieate green aiul exquisite drooping frondage. Topping some of! vated saddle, such as that of Tarapounamu, one gazes around on a veritable ocean of bush. In every direction as far as the eye can reach, Ene great billows of the woods roll their green crt' Sts—range after range thick with virgin forest jodie highest peaks, and the deepsof the ravines between are post in the purpling mists. Along each great gully elatters fcnoisy mountain torrent. Then hundreds and hundreds of feet down we dive into the streams again. We look down upon the wide branching tops of the lofty trees, perched i whose branches and forks one often sees great lumps M rock, caught when they were hurled from the new road above by the pioneer navvies of Tuhoe-land. Those who nanker after bush scenery wiil have their desires more than Btisfied here; in fact, il is with relief that one emerges from the encompass-wshadeof the dark Best, and sees be-fore him the open valley of Ruatahuna.

On Wairau-Moana

A11 over the country, even in the most inaccessible parts, are the rtruins of ancient fortified pas,

The Outlet, Lake Waikaremoana

Tourist Dept. photos

Lasterton

Muir and Moodie photo

Trout Ponds, Masterton

Tomlinson photo

and every creek and peak, and many an ancient tree, havc stories all their own. On the fern-covered hill of Umurakau, which overlooks the peaceful vale of the Whirinaki, near Te Whaiti, there still stand the great totara palisade posts, which remind the passer-bv that this lonely mount was once a fortress village full of busy lile. Not far away are the ruins of Te Harema Pa, which was rushed and captured by the late Major Fox (Pokiha and his loyal Arawa, in 1869. Further up the countrv, past the savage gorges of the Okahu, are other battlefields and skirmish-grounds. A square-walled, fern-grown redoubt at Ruatahuna, frowning down on the waters of the Waihui Creek, was assulted and taken by the Colonial forces nnder Colonel St. John in 1869, and under its earthen walls Captain Travers found a lonely grave in the land of the mountain-men.

Mokau Falls, Waikaremoana

Tourist Depot. photos

Pahiatua, on the railway line, 107 miles from Wellington, is the centre of a very fine fishing and shooting district. The Makuri River, famous for its rainbow trout, is within easv walking distance from this township.and by a 12 miles coach drive through the Makuri Gorge to the village of the same name, the visitor may view some exceedingly fine forest, gorge, and river scenery. Hotel aceommoda-tion at Pahiatua and Makuri: tariff, 8/-to 10/-per day.

Masterton is an interesting town, which may be visited en route, and exeellent sport for rod and gun may be found in the district. It has several good hotels. Buggies, etc., may be hired for drives in the district.

Martinborough, a small village with two hotels, situated about 57 miles from Wellington—45 miles bv rail and 12 by coach—is the most convenient point from which stalkers can approach the red deer country of the Wairarapa. Which contains some of the finest herds in New Zealand. Tents and guides can be obtaiined at Martinborough.

The train to Wellington passes over the Rimutaka in-cline, which has a grade-of one in fifteen for three miles.

Muir and Moodie, photo

[unclear: Wellington from wharf]

Wellington Wharves

Tomlinson, photo