III

Yesterday I delivered the last letter and handed over the last parcel of "gold-boys" (sovereigns). I must now finish the account of the P'oon-Yu visits.

Friday, January 3: There was actually a touch of frost last night. We started early from Crow-lake, and sailed down past the weirs to P'ong-woo (Mussel-lake). Immediately after breakfast we went ashore. The street of shops just at the landing-place houses some undesirable characters. We went to Main-north-gate, and soon found the house of "Palm-present," son of the old man of the Upper Taieri. He is a quiet man, but seemed sincerely grateful for letter and money. As at Dwarf-Hill, so at Crow-lake and Mussel-lake, I was struck with the evident poverty. It seems a crying shame that so much money should be lavished on their temples and idolatrous ceremonies when many of the people are so very poor. Near by we found the house of "Having-blossoms" and "Having-enterprise"; but they were both working some distance off, so we handed the letter and money to their uncle, "Having-riches."

We got "Palm-present to guide us to T'ong-pooi (Damback), but we had first to go to our boat. When we got aboard a crowd followed till the boat was quite full. Someone ashore began throwing stones, but some friends soon stopped that. Dam-back page 19 lies about two miles from Mussel-lake, and we had a very hot, tramp, but the reception we got amply repaid. I suppose I was the first foreigner to visit this village. We found that "Gemsplendour" had died last year, and a younger brother "East-splendour" just a few weeks ago; while "Established-splendour" is working in Canton city. His people are very anxious that "Dragon-splendour" should come home, as there is no one at the head of the house. The wife and children of the first-named have to go away and work. We waited while a letter was written to "Dragon-splendour," and then walked to Shui-lek (Watery-ridge) village. I wished to see James Shum's (a Christian at Ida Valley) friends, but they were at market. As we were leaving, the wife of "You're-famous" came asking about him: she had not heard for a long while. An old man who returned from New Zealand some 30 years ago inquired about "Clear-as-water," of Queenstown.

As soon as we got back to Mussel-lake our boat had a stock of visitors, with questions innumerable. One old woman wishes me to ask you if you know the whereabouts of her boy, "Valiantson." [He is at Cromwell.—A. D.] About 3 p.m. we riled down to High-pond mart, and went for a stroll through the town. We found the shops of "Wealthy"—formerly of Arcade. Dunedin—and "Ox," but neither were in. We visited the post office, which is kept by the brother of a man who was a fellow-passenger on the s.s. Airlie, return- page 20 ing from Greymouth, where he was a storekeeper. The evening was spent quietly on our boat. We had some visitors, but they were quite respectful. We were moored close to where the night-watches are struck. You will remember the brassy "Clang! clang! clang!" followed by the "Rub-a-dub, dub!" of the watchman's drum. Just before we turned in at 11 o'clock five passenger-boats passed up, and made a noise that one would expect to waken the town. These boats carry a large stock of arms and travel in company. Robberies seem to be weekly occurrences on this river, and it is said that Crow-lake quarters the worst band of robbers in this district.

Saturday, January 4: We breakfasted early, as we intended visiting Shekma (Stonehorse) village before leaving for Canton. A petty official, having 50 men under him, came to the boat, and very respect-fully exchanged cards. Then four or five women came from Watery-ridge with letters and questions. They had gone up to Mussel-lake and not finding us there had hurried down here. It made an interesting picture—the group of women along the side of the boat asking for their friends. They asked for "Pervasive," and I was able to show them his photo at work in his claim at Bendigo Gully. The wife of "You're-famous" gave me a letter for him. It was well worth all the trouble of writing out the long list of names to be able to answer some of the anxious questionings. [I keep a "roll" of the Otago Chinese—their surnames, names, villages, etc.—and Mr page 21 M'Neur made a similar one of those he met on the Summer Inland Tour, 1900-01.—A. D.] A number of men also came aboard, and it was nearly 9 a.m. before we started for Stonehorse. We enjoyed much the walk over the low hills thither. There I made my first acquaintance with the sweet water-chestnut. We went to Flat-sand Division of the village, and were soon introduced to "Distant," to whom I gave his father's letter. Quite a number of folk gathered, and we were treated to horribly bad English, but good tea and biscuits. One old woman asked for "Ripple," and I showed her the photograph of him and his house. [The old lady will soon see the man himself, for he left Dunedin for China on February 22.]

Then we went to the part of the village occupied by the Yuen clan, and inquired for the nearest relatives of Ah Mee, who died at Waikaka on December 2, 1900. We found that his old mother had died, and as his father and his brothers also were dead I gave the 30s to an uncle to divide among some cousins who are the nearest of kin alive. A great crowd gathered, and we were treated most hospitably. "T'ong Sin-shang" (Teacher Don) seems to be a kind of household word here. They remembered well your visit four years ago, and of course a great many of your returned friends were inquiring for you. "Refined," who returned from Dunedin last year, came to have a talk with us. We would gladly have prolonged our visit in this friendly page 22 village, but we wanted to make Canton before sunset.

We got back to the boat, and soon set sail. But alas! wind and tide were against us, and although our crew worked with a will we managed to make only Naisheng by sundown. There we waited for the turn of the tide, and moved down in the darkness to P'oon-t'ong, where the Ts'ung-fa boats lie. I had a restless night. The water was filthy, and I felt out of sorts. On Sunday morning we crossed over to Fati, where a bad cold overtook me during the day and at night I had my first touch of fever. I dosed myself with quinine and have not had a return. I find I will have to be careful in many ways, but I 'hope to profit much by the experience of those who have been so long in this unhealthy field.

With regard to work in the P'oon-yu district, certainly nothing sudden will do. If anyone can get an entrance it will be the worker trained among the Chinese of Otago. But it will need both patience and perseverance before a settlement is obtained. The Americans purpose opening in Ko-t'ong (High-pond) next year. It seems to be the only centre that promises well in our district, and it will have to be handled with great caution. I have had talks with Mr Beattie, who has charge of the work in that district, and he is personally willing enough to leave Ko-t'ong to us if we can gain an opening there. I have no doubt the American Presbyterians would agree to this. There is any amount of room in the district. The Bap- page 23 tists tried to open a chapel in Ko-t'ong but had to fly at once. I think an earnest capable worker could make an opening, with occasional visits from the foreigner until it is possible to make the town a definite centre of work for our villages. It is handy to them and to Canton city. Many of the villagers come to market there. A medical missionary would be invaluable.