The Antipodes.

At 8 o'clock on the morning of the 1st February we were half way between the Campbell and Antipodes Islands, having run 205 miles out of the 406. (No. 51.) The appearances indicated that the fine weather would soon cease, the glass being stationary at 29.28 and the sea gradually rising. The vessel rolled so much that an onlooker would have laughed consumedly to see us try to get breakfast—tea camp stools, personages, cruets, books, and everything else being it extricably mixed up and flying hither and thither, helter skelter. Just as one of the company would put his cup to his lips there would be i sudden lurch, and away he and his beverage would fly, to be brought up under the saloon sofa or in some other inconvenient corner. Towards the afternoon the glass gave indications of rising, and all through the weather was fine, although a heavy swell from the S.W. was running We expected to make the Antipodes about 6 a.m., but as at 7 o'clock we had not sighted the islands we bad to heave to and wait till the sun could be taken at noon. When these observations were made Captain Fairchild found that we had run about thirty miles northwest of the islands, so the ship was put about and half an hour afterwards page 17 we sighted land. The Antipodes Islands were at one time, say about sixty years ago, the resort of the Sydney sealers, but on our visit we did not see a single seal or sea lion, nor has Captain Fairchild, on any of his visits been more favoured. The islands rise abruptly from the sea to a height of 1200 feet, with perpendicular cliffs varying in altitude from 200 to 600 feet. The water all round is very deep and there is no fit anchorage for any vessel save a steamer. Even steamers must be kept continually ready to get under weigh, owing to the frequent changes of wind, and the fact that when it blows it does so with a vengeance. The island proper is about three miles long, egg shaped, and is surrounded by bold precipitous black rocks. There are a great many sea-formed caves, and also a remarkable archway, formed by the water eating its way through between two rocks. (No. 36.) As the weather looked threatening the Captain determined to go round to the E.S.E. side, where we anchored and landed stores, three goats, and six sheep. An inspection of the depot (No. 40) proved it to be intact, and we discovered that there was abundance of pasture and water for the live stock we put on shore. There is, however, no vestige of bush or scrub of any description, so we planted some trees and sowed some grass seed in the hope that by and bye they would add to the natural verdure of the island. Penguins and paroquets abound, but although our party got a number of the former, along with several of the albatross tribe, they failed to secure any of the latter. An hour after we anchored the wind changed, and we had to shift our quarters, and again anchored under the lee of the land and eastern islands. (No. 41). On the morning of the third the weather was thick and dirty, while the glass had gone down four-tenths, so we had to dodge round to another anchorage, comparatively close inshore and sheltered by perpendicular cliffs some 400 to 500 feet high. The height of the island is marked on the chart as 600 feet, but this is an error, as the principal hill, Mount Galloway, is 1200 feet above the level of the sea. From seaward this hill looks conical or dome shaped, but on reaching the summit a beautiful clear lake, covering an area of thirteen or fourteen acres, is found, a lake which a little later in the season than the time of our visit is much frequented by the albatross, being virtually surrounded by thousands of these birds. While lying at this anchorage we caught a number of cod but were not sure that they were eatable. They resemble the cod of the New Zealand waters, but when alive their gills are of a bright yellow, the colour disappearing when they die. A post mortem disclosed the fact that their stomachs were full of broken shells and seaweed, while their flesh had been honeycombed by maggots about an inch long. On Saturday, the 4th, we were still stormbound under the shelter of the island, and had been unable to effect a landing since the previous Thursday. As the glass was beginning to rise we hoped to be able to get ashore on the following day, but it was quite useless to attempt to go to sea in such weather. We were very glad that we got the observation which enabled us to pick up the island when we did, as a strong gale had been blowing ever since-During our forced sojourn at this place we had to amuse ourselves by watching the page 18 penguins ashore. Every sloping rock, boulder, and bank was crowded with these curious creatures, and their incessant chatter or yelp reached us above the howling of the storm three-quarters of a mile away. We ventured ashore to take one or two photographs, and although we made for a boulder beach the very heavy surf made landing a difficult and dangerous operation. Sunday opened stormy, but by noon the wind had died away, although the glass warned us of another change very soon. We landed again, and on ascending an almost precipitous ledge of rock and tussock we found a piece of totara board with the remains of an inscription, apparently marking a grave. So far as decipherable' the inscription reads as follows:—

To the M———Foster, chief officer of the Schr. Prince of Denmark, who was unfortunately drown———ke the Boat Arbour———14th day of December in the———1825.

We carefully examined this interesting and sad memento, marking the wild and lonely resting place of one who had perished on this inhospitable shore, and we hoped to glean further information concerning it upon reaching the mainland. Doubtless the Prince of Denmark was a sealer which visited the island 63 years ago, and after our experience of the difficulty of landing we could not feel surprise upon learning that an attempt to "take" Boat Harbour, for so we interpreted the inscription, had been attended with loss of life. I took a view of a natural arch, way here which is at the entrance of the Boat Harbour, and also shows, the grave referred to (No. 37). Passing the depot we came in sight of the bold north headland, a grand long solid rock about a mile in length and not less than 500 or 600 feet high, slightly veiled in mist and absolutely precipitous (No. 38). Returning to the boat harboar we see the Stella in the distance, and are surprised at her diminutive size, forgetting that we are measuring her by gigantic cliffs mi pinnacled islands in the foreground (No. 39). The surf breaks with terrific force, and rolls the boulders about as if they were so many; bubbles. As the weather continued wild and threatening, and as the barometer was falling rapidly, it was decided to remain another 24 hours at the Antipodes before making for the Boundies. We were all anxious to get back to the mainland, but after waiting so long we could not think of passing over so important a part of our duty as visiting the rocks I have last named. Several albatross parties had been ashore, and all had returned laden with the spoils of the hunt. Our vessel had the appearance of a floating menagerie, troops of penguins promenading the deck like soldiers on parade, while albatrosses were walking about and lying around in all directions. Unfortunately we could not get these birds to swallow a morsel of food, although we had two nellies on board, which are reckoned valuable birds, and which were beginning to eat. We also began teaching the young penguins til they would have to eat, and it was rather amusing to see the cook and one or two of the hands catching the youngsters in turn and forcing their breakfasts down their throats. I also took on board some grasses and a few pieces of the rocks. Among the latter were some page 19 well-defined black crystals, bat not being a geologist I was at a loss to decide as to their nature and value. These crystals do not occur in the rocks on the beach, but are plentiful at an elevation of about 300 feet above sea level. On Monday afternoon we wore still waiting a "slant" to get off to the Bounties, but we could not start till the evening, as we wanted daylight when approaching these dangerous reefs. About 4 p.m. we got under weigh, and steaming from the Antipodes, we made