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The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Volume 52

[Paper by J. A. Panton]

As public attention has recently been attracted to a remote corner of Australia named Kimberley, I avail myself of this, our first meeting of the Victoria branch of the Australian Geographical Society, to give a sketch of the discovery, physical geography, resources, and prospects of this new Colony.

The north-west coast of Australia was probably the first portion of this continent discovered by the early navigators, but for centuries afterwards it remained a terra incognita until, within the last eighty years, it was explored by De Freycinet, Baudin, King, Wickham, and Stokes.

De Freycinet discovered the coast from La Grange Bay on to Cape Leveque; Baudin, the north and north-east on to Cape Doussejour; King, the Cambridge Gulf and the greater portion of the north-west coast, and the great sound that bears his name; but to Wickham and Stokes we are chiefly indebted for the coast survey as it stands.

As early as 1837 an attempt to penetrate beyond the littoral district was made by Lieutenants Grey and Lushington, but the rugged nature of the country traversed and the inexperience of the explorers, with their unsuitable equipment and cattle (Timor ponies), proved a task more difficult than they had calculated upon, and they had to return to their starting point, after having accomplished a journey of about 80 miles from the coast. Although Stokes in his examination and survey of King's Sound had discovered the Fitzroy River, and found extensive grassy plains on its banks, this north-west country attracted no attention, so long as the south and south-eastern Colonies presented such tempting fields for settlement. In 1855 the Imperial Government sent out a well-equipped expedition under Gregory, with whom were associated Baron von Mueller, botanist; Dr. Wilson, naturalist and geololist; Mr. F. T. Gregory, and Dr. Elsey, surgeon. This expedition explored the Victoria River to its sources in latitude 18 degrees, and having crossed the dividing ridge, followed an inland flowing creek (Sturt's Creek) south by west as far as Termination Lake, in latitude 20 degrees 30 minutes. The result of this exploration was the discovery of Roe Plains and magnificent basaltic pastoral country on the Upper Victoria, and further inland the extensive richly grassed plains along the west bank of Sturt's Creek, which page 120 Gregory named the Denison Plains. The official report furnished to the Government, a bare diary of the expedition, with maps, together with Baron von Mueller's report on the flora, were handed over to the Royal Geographical Society, and published in the Transactions in 1857, at a time when our attention was diverted to the gold-producing Colonies of Victoria and New South Wales, and when pastoral interests were at a low ebb. Unfortunately all that the outside world knew of this discovery was an addition to Arrow smith's map of Australia, showing the track of the expedition, with a few descriptive notes.

Even upon that meagre information, in the year 1865, a few enterprising young Victorian settlers determined to establish themselves on the pastures of Sturt's Creek, the Denison Plains. They subscribed capital, chartered two vessels, shipped some 4,000 sheep, &c., and set sail with a complete equipment to found the new Colony. Unfortunately, they had calculated on reaching their destination from the north-west, and landed at Camden Harbour, where they found themselves at a point from which to penetrate the interior was impossible. Broken, precipitous mountains barred their passage on every side, one of their vessels got upon the rocks, disaster upon disaster followed, so having re-shipped what remained of their sheep, they abandoned the enterprise, and returned to the settlements. Some of the party, however, stayed at Nickol Bay with their stock, and have since prospered as sheep farmers.

The fate of the Camden Harbour expedition deterred others from venturing to the new country, and, for the time, diverted the tide of pioneering into Queensland. Still we had a great man amongst us—one who, eager to add to our geographical knowledge of Australia, was ever drawing attention to the grand field for pastoral settlement presented in the north-west. I refer to our Vice-president, Baron von Mueller. From what he had seen in Gregory's expedition, he became so ardent in his desire to continue the exploration of this territory that he proposed to the Government of Western Australia to lead an expedition on a scientific and practical exploration of the unknown tract between Nickol Bay settlement and the Denison Plains, but his offer was not accepted.

Ernest Giles, when in Perth, resting from his daring exploration across the continent from Port Augusta, proposed to make an exploration of the north-west with camels. The plan met with the approbation of His Excellency Sir William Robinson, who iuduced his Government to apply to the Legislature for a sum of £1,500 to defray the expenses of the expedition, but local jealousy and interest worked against the project, and the grant was refused.

Shortly afterwards, in 1877, the West Australian Government equipped an expedition under one of their surveyors, Mr. page 121 Alexander Forrest, who had already gained experience as an explorer with his brother, who is now the Surveyor-General of the Colony. Mr. Forrest made his start from Roeburn, travelled along the coast lands as far as Beagle Bay, crossed to the Fitzroy River, followed it up to the Leopold Range, and in endeavouring to penetrate that range reached the seaboard. Baffled in every attempt to cross the Leopold Barrier, he was compelled to return to the Fitzroy, and discovering a tributary, the Margaret, which enabled him to make easting, he reached the Ord River, which he followed down to the confluence of the Negri, and then continued in an east by north course until he crossed Gregory's tracks on the Victoria River, at the junction of the Wickham.

Being a thorough bushman and surveyor, he furnished a report—published with a map—containing a most interesting narrative of his journey, a clear and comprehensive description of the physical features and pastoral value of the country, with a fair geological sketch of the line traversed. Copies of this report were sent to our Melbourne Exhibition, and were distributed by the Commission of the Western Australian Court.

The Government being alive to the value of the country discovered, proclaimed it a pastoral district, under the title of Kimberley, and, without loss of time, framed regulations for the occupation of the land, fixing the rent at double that charged in other districts, viz., 10s. per thousand acres pastoral land, instead of 5s. per thousand acres in the central district

Nevertheless, numerous applications were made for leases of pastoral lands, and this year I believe that over 15,000,000 acres are let to Crown tenants. At the same time, I am of opinion that, taking into consideration the expense of occupying country so remote, the rent is much too high, and that bond fide settlers who comply with the regulations and stock their runs within (say) three years, ought to be allowed to hold their, leases at a nominal rent for five years.

I may here observe that many of the settlers have remarked that Forrest must have been favoured with an exceptionally fine season at the time of his journey, as his glowing description of some tracks of country traversed by his party were not found to be verified when the localities were visited some years afterwards by gentlemen who had taken up lands on his report.

Before quitting the exploration of the Kimberley District, I must not omit to mention an expedition that attempted a settlement at the Glenelg River in the year 1863. A small party of Western Australians chartered a schooner named the "Flying Foam," and took with them a few horses, cattle, and sheep. Cruising round the coast they put in at Doubtful Bay, where they expected to find the mouth of the Glenelg River. They sailed through a page 122 passage on the north of this bay, and discovered a large landlocked basin which they named Georgewater. On the north-east of this fine sheet of water they entered the Glenelg River, and sailing up about 60 miles reached the rich basaltic country discovered by Grey and Lushington. They landed their little party with their stock and stores, and explored a portion of the country on the south bank of the river as far as Panter Downs. The natives are not mentioned as having been troublesome, but they were found to be a formidable-looking race, of immense stature and numerous. The little vessel was kept waiting for a few weeks until the settlers should determine on remaining; but although the country was all that could be desired, having abundance of water, rich lands, and suitable pasture, when the hour came for final decision it was resolved to quit, and the settlers, with their few head of stock, were re-embarked and set sail homewards. On their way they put in to Secure Harbour, which is situated at the south of Collier Bay. From this harbour a narrow gut leads to an inland water, the extent of which is as yet unknown. In their boat they sailed through this channel, and were astonished to find the current running nearly 20 miles per hour. On entering the inland water they found it to be of considerable extent, but were unable to explore it.

Forrest discovered the eastern margin of this basin close under the Leopold Range, a rocky, wooded, precipitous shore, with numerous small streams descending in cascades of crystal water into the sea.

After this little voyage of discovery the "Flying Foam" returned to the settlements.

Mr. Michael Durack and party in 1882 landed on the north shore of the gut in Cambridge Gulf, travelled west about 12 miles, thence south 9 miles to a river flowing into the gulf from the north, which was named the Durack. Following this river up 5 miles, they crossed near where a large creek joined from the west. They then steered on a S.E. course until they reached the river flowing in at the head of the Gulf, which they named the Pentacost. They followed this river in a S.S.E. direction through very rough rocky country for about 13 miles; thence they travelled to south-east shoulder of Mount Cockburn, and again steering in an easterly and then a southerly course, at a point about 13 miles S.E. from Mount Cockburn, they came upon a large river which Durack named the Denham, and which appeared to flow north-north-east. They followed this river up S. by W. for a distance of about 30 miles; then travelling in a south-east course over "low hilly country, covered with stones, and grassy in patches," they struck another large river, which they named the Bow, since nam ed the Fraser by O'Donnell; thence they passed on to the Ord River, which they reached at a point some 6 miles page 123 below the junction of the Negri. They followed the Ord up for about 80 miles, and crossing the granite and slate ranges south of Black Peak, they examined the Nicholson Plains, and then made for the settlements on the Lower Fitzroy, following the route discovered by Forrest. Another private exploring party, under O'Donnell, traced the course of the Ord from the junction of the Negri to the eastern arm of Cambridge Gulf, returned by the east of Mount Cockburn in a south-east course to the Ord, below the junction of the Bow; but, strange to say, did not see anything of the river Denham, which Durack had discovered.

O'Donnell then explored the Bow, which he named the Fraser, to its source, and traversed a large extent of fine pastoral country, watered by springs and small streams, including the river Wilson, and what he supposed the head waters of the Margaret and the Fitzroy. He then returned in an easterly course by a tributary of the Ord, until he again reached that river at a point a few miles above Forrest's 152 camp, and thence travelled over the Ord Plains to the Upper Negri in an east-by-north course. O'Donnell was an excellent observer, and his diary was published in the Argus some weeks ago. A map of his explorations, compiled by Mr. Wells, a young surveyor who accompanied him, has since been lithographed for the proprietors of the Cambridge Downs.

Kimberley is that portion of Western Australia situated north of lat. 19° 30, and bounded on the east by the Northern Territory of South Australia. It will be observed on reference to the map that its north-west shore outline presents a broken indented character, with numerous islands and shoals extending for miles off the coast, and, as might be expected from such indications, the country inland is rugged and mountainous, and although many beautiful valleys are found amongst the ranges, and near the Glenelg River are some hundreds of miles of rich basaltic downs, it is not likely to become a favourite pastoral locality. In due time it will be occupied by the planter, as such soil is admirably adapted for the cultivation of sugar and other tropical products.

Grey remarks:—"Since I have visited this spot I have traversed large portions of Australia, but have seen no land, no scenery, to equal it. We were upon the confines of a great volcanic district, clothed with tropical vegetation, to which the Isle of France bears a greater resemblance than any other portion of the world which I am acquainted with; the rocks in both places are identical, some of the trees are also the same, and there are several other close and striking points of similarity.

Forrest, as I have already informed you, found his course to the east barred by a bold precipitous range, which he named the Leopold Range, and this mountain wall extends from the seashore near Collier Bay, S.S.E. to the Fitzroy River, and thence E. by S. for a distance of 180 miles. Almost a continuation of the page 124 Leopold Range is the Muller Range, stretching E. and W. To the east of this, and guarding the sources of the Ord River, is the Black Peak—named by O'Donnell the Linacre Range—which extends north by east to the Bow or Fraser. West of this is the Howitt Range, supposed to be the highest land in the country explored by O'Donnell. Following down the Ord on its west bank, some 10 miles below the confluence of the Negri, is the Osmand Range, and farther down on the same side is a great range, named after Mr. Carr-Boyd by Mr. O'Donnell. At the head of Cambridge Gulf stands Mount Cockburn—a remarkable, isolated table-land, presenting the appearance of an immense fortification, with numerous frowning bastions. Within this highland region the principal rivers of Kimberley take their source, viz., the Fitzroy, the Leonard, the Margaret, the Ord, and the two large rivers discovered by Durack, the Denham and the Bow. To the north of this the Stephen Range extends north by east, and forms the watershed of the Glenelg, the Roe, and other rivers flowing into the bays of the north-west coast and east into Cambridge Gulf. Grey estimated the altitude of this range at 3,000 ft. A few isolated rocky ranges are found outside this region, but as yet they are not worthy of mention, except as landmarks.

Now, excising these mountain tracts, we have left what may be designated the pastoral lands of Kimberley, a country of plains, downs, and low ranges, intersected by flowing rivers and creeks, with herbage similar to the finest pastures in Queensland, and having a fair proportion of spinifex (triodia), also a point of resemblance to portions of that Colony. Between Beagle Bay and the Fitzroy, patches of rank grass occur in about equal proportion to the more nutritious sorts. From Roebuck Bay inland the country is nearly level, in some places scrubby, but usually thinly wooded, roughly grassed, and watered by natural artesian springs and numerous native wells. Mr. Forrest, who traversed the country on his return route to the De Grey River, informed me that he is of opinion that good water can be obtained anywhere in that district at a depth of 16 ft., and that the pasture ought to be suitable for cattle or sheep.

On the Leonard, the Meda, the May, and the Fitzroy are extensive plains covered with rich grass, and bounding these plains is a wooded upland known by the local name of "Pindan," which is not as yet occupied by the settlers, owing to the difficulty of shepherding in such country, but which, it is thought, will prove excellent pasture when fenced in. Occasional tracts of spinifex are also found in that district The extreme south zone of the Kimberley south of lat. 18deg. has not yet been explored, but whatever good country may be discovered in that direction must prove suitable for sheep, as I will endeavour to show you when I come to describe portion of it explored by Gregory on Sturt's Creek.

page 125

I now come to the Margaret River District, which Forrest and Durack describe as similar in pastures to the Fitzroy. Crossing a low range on east bank of the Margaret Forest, entered upon downs and plains (Nicholson Plains) that are evidently the northwestern limit of the Denison Plains of Gregory.

He reports, 20th July:—"We made an early start this morning, stearing E.N.E., through magnificent and well-watered country, little brooks crossing our tracks at intervals of nearly every mile, till, after travelling 14 miles, we came to a larger stream, upon which we camped for the rest of the day. From the summit of a low range, to which Hicks and I walked this afternoon, we found spread out before us the most splendid grassy plain it has ever been my lot to see. As far as the eye could reach to the S.S.E. and S.W. was one vast level expanse of magnificent feeding-ground, and at our feet a running stream that we could trace far into the distance. These plains, which are granitic in formation, comprise, according to my calculation, not less than 1,000,000 of acres; and, judging from the richness of the herbage, would carry, I imagine, no less a number of sheep. This is, in my estimation, the finest part of Western Australia I have seen, and I hope that before long it will be covered with flocks and herds. Lat. 18 deg., in which it is situate, is only 180 miles north of the De Grey, where sheep and cattle thrive well."

Again, on the 28th July, he states:—"We followed the river (Ord) down for 9 miles, E.N.E. This morning we came to a large running stream, which joined the river from the southward, and travelling 4 miles further we camped in splendid feed; indeed, all the country we passed through to-day was very fine, the open plains spreading out as far as the eye could reach. They put me in mind of the great plains to the north of Eucla, on the south coast, the only difference being that this country is as well watered as that is unfortunately the reverse. Being so well watered, and the soil so good, this district will support a very large number of sheep; it apparently does not suffer from the periodical floods which visit the lower levels of the Fitzroy. Scarce a tree is to be seen on these rolling plains, except along the banks of the numerous streams which traverse them in every direction."

The territory named Cambridge Downs, which was explored by O'Donnell, Carr-Boyd, and party, is described as high downs and extensive grassy valleys, watered by numerous creeks. It is intersected by the Howitt Range, and also by a granitic range on the west bank of the Upper Ord. The country to the north-west of this, as seen from the heights, appeared to be open and comparatively level for a considerable distance.

North of the Bow or Fraser, O'Donnell found excellent pasture country on the west of the Carr-Boyd Range, and east of this page 126 range grassy level country from 5 to 12 miles in depth along the course of the Ord River, as far as the point where it entered the Northern Territory.

On the west bank of Sturt's Creek Gregory discovered vast richly-grassed plains, which he named the Denison Plains, after Sir William Denison, R.E.

Baron von Mueller, who accompanied Gregory in this expedition, in his diary, hitherto unpublished, says, February 21, 1856:

"We bore, therefore, away N.W., and reached, after travelling about 20 miles, a creek running E. and W. Sesbania (bean bush) bushes were seen again, also several Riverina plants, the Leichhardtia climber, a minuria. Came to some slightly brackish water, with various samphire plants on the muddy banks and wiry polygonum. The bed of the creek solid, depth 2 ft. to 3 ft. Had a slight rain shower in the afternoon. The chief components of the scrub, several species of Acacia carissa. On rich places near the camp several sorts of good grasses and nutritive salt-bushes, among the atter Euchylæna tomentosa and Rhagodia mutanz abundant; the dwarf kangaroo grass also abundant.

"February 22.—We had our course over fine broad plains nearly S.W., travelling near a branch of the Samphire Creek, until we reached a deep pool, with black waterhens, grey and spoon-bill ducks, there being also white cockatoos numerous in the neighbourhood. The herbage among the grass in some places very varied. Thunder in the afternoon, with a little rain.

"February 23.—Followed the watercourse S.S.W. over similar broad and extensive plains, almost destitute of trees. Saw several natives in the distance. Camped on some residue of the rain of yesterday in an eremophilia scrub, having travelled south in the latter part of the stage. Natives crawling about, probably attracted by curiosity to sec us and our horses more accurately.

"February 24.—Kept a S.W. course over the continuation of the former plains, which are here bounded on the eastern side by a low scrubby ridge; grass here already more parched, passed over boggy channels. Water in pools less turbid from clay than that of yesterday. Day hot, 105° F. at 2 p.m. Black and white cockatoos repeatedly noticed, the white ones particularly numerous. Among the grasses were several excellent species of andropogon, also the rice again, mint, and the Trichodoema. Borage also noticed again and wiry polygonum.

"Feb. 25.—Went further along the plain S.W. and S. for about 16 miles, until we found again as in the previous day shallow stagnant water in clay beds. The country all around is subject to inundations, as indicated by the frequency of wiry polygonum, a species of swamp salt-bush (Atriplex); the water in the shallow pools opaque, not brackish, of rather a milky taste. For our exploring purposes we were evidently too late in the page 127 season, irrespective of this year having been unfavourable for rain. The grass here dry; the trees consist chiefly of small acacias and of box eucalyptus in this region. A slight ridge covered with scrub to the east. Temperature in shade, 105 deg.

"Feb. 26.—Travelled over the plain again, bounded on the east by low scrubby ridges on a southern course for 16 miles. The ground had been inundated some months ago on the lower places, where the grass still continued green, but in all other places it was much dried up. By turning to the east we came to a little watercourse, with good pools of opaque water, on one of which we encamped, having a native fire not far ahead of us. Day hot, 105 deg. in shade. Sky overcast with clouds. Ducks and water-hens in the lagoons; pigeons also abound.

"Feb. 27.—Following the channel of the watercourse W.S.W. and S. we came to some fine reaches of water, with clucks, pelicans, and waterhens, besides swarms of white cockatoos. The channel between these lake-like reaches of water dry in the present season. Bottom of the creek firm but slippery still from white moist clay which opalizes the water of the lagoons. Here around the waters much of the nutritious Pannicam spinessans grass. Passed sandstone and also some trap ridges, otherwise the whole area consisting of plains with the vegation much parched already, the occasional scrubs consisting of brushes of Acacia, Cassia, Dodæmia eremophila chiefly. Temperature in the shade 107 degrees. Wind, however, refreshing. Sky at time cloudy. Dew-fall slight. Mosquitoes far less numerous than farther north. Since yesterday almost none."

Here we have a reliable description of country that squatters can understand and appreciate. It is known that where such herbage and grasses are found, there sheep, horses, and cattle invariably do well, and as this is the only portion of South Kimberley as yet explored, there is every reason to believe that similar country may be found along the same parallel of latitude.

Kimberley is undoubtedly a well-watered district, the principal rivers being the Fitzroy, with its tributary, the Margaret, the Linnard, the May, the Robinson, and other rivers, debouching into King's Sound; the Glenelg, the Prince Regent, the Roe, and other streams flowing into the inlets on the north-west. The Ord, with its large tributaries, flowing into Cambridge Gulf, and Sturt's Creek, with tributaries, no doubt, from Nicholson's Plains.

These rivers are not mere sand channels, like many that present respectable proportions in the map of Australia, but are chiefly flowing streams with fine reaches of deep water, and many of them are capable of being navigated for considerable distances in flood-time. Here I must again quote Grey in his description of the Glenelg:—"There burst upon sight a noble river, running through beautiful country where we saw it, at least three or four miles page 128 across, and studded with numerous verdant islands. I have seen many Australian rivers, but none equal to this in magnitude or beauty." On the banks of the Ord, above the junction of the Negri, salt springs, having large deposits of pure salt fit for station use, were observed by Durack, and also by O'Donnell and Carr-Boyd.