Other formats

    TEI XML file   ePub eBook file  

Connect

    mail icontwitter iconBlogspot iconrss icon

Historical Records of New Zealand Vol. II.

Murry's Journal

Murry's Journal.

Kept by Mr. Robert Murry, fourth officer, while on board the “Endeavour” at Dusky Sound, 1795.
(Extract copied from the original in the Essex Institute, Salem, Mass., U.S.A., by the Editor.)

On June 2d Captn. Raven asked me, if I should wish to go with Captain B as fourth Officer.* I told him I should not wish to leave him untill he returned to England. He wished me to embrace the opportunity adding,—“I know pretty well page 519 from a short acquaintance whether a man is possessed of any stock of sensibility, my acquaintance convinces me that Capt. Bampton is a Gentleman with whom I can trust you, he has promised to take care of you, to protect you, and while you continue to deserve I am confident, will be your friend. I know your nature so much as to be convinced that you feel some regret at leaving me, but you must in this case, consider yourself. If you return to England your friends at most cannot raise you higher than this in an Indiaman, that trade is now at an Ebb, and India is, I think the best place in which, under such a Commander as Ct. B. You must meet preferment.” Such was the advice I received from this truly good and generous man. I did not hesitate long in determining; the day following he introduced me to Cn. B. as the Young Man he committed to his care & protection, there was something so solemn in this introduction, that I am sure I was considerably abashed—and knew not how to make a reply to Captn. Bampton's generous offer, and assurance that he would take care of me. Some persons who read this, may wonder at my suffering myself to be thus (in a manner) delivered up, if they do, it will be a proof that their share of sense is but inconsiderable and would, did they conceive my situation of mind think I had done right.

Soon after (on the 6th June) I went round to the River Hawkesburg with a party of 20 Lascars for the purpose of cutting Timber for the Endeavour, my passage was very unpleasant, it rained hard the greatest part of the time, and I had a very bad boat's crew, so that I did not get on equal to my wish.

When I arrived, I found that the Timber did not run near so large here, as at the parts adjacent to Sydney in Port Jackson. I therefore wrote to Captn. B. and informed him, and he directly sent an order for my immediate return, I directly dispatched the Sawyers and Sea Cunny. On the next day I sent the lascars, I was obliged to pay a man 5 shillings to conduct them in their road; and thinking that they would not fatigue themselves with walking I deferred going myself untill the second day after, when I started with Mr. W. Baker the Superintendant, and arrived at Sydney at 8 in the evening, after the most fatiguing walk I ever experienced.

On the morning following I went on board the ship and commenced my duty as the Fourth or Junior Officer, I was employed in the ship's hold delivering Rice and Dholl for the use of His Majester's Colony.

Having no accommodation, I slept on shore at Mr. Smiths, the Store Keeper, the character of that Gentleman is so well page 520 known by persons who visit Port Jackson, that any tribute I could pay would be superfluous.

To the Officers of the Ship, especially Mr. Weathrall, I am much indebted for the very great attention they paid me, on entering into their society, as it softens in a great degree, my extreme regret at parting from my late worthy Commander and his Officers.

Remarks, &c Thursday, Sep. 17, 1795.

[Omitting tabular matter, and giving latitude and longitude each day.—The Editor.]

Lying moored below Garden Island 12 fms.—Mud.

Wind N.N.E. & variable, rain.

A.M. Do. Wind & Weather.—Fancy, Brig, at anchor astern.

Noon Calm & Cloudy.

Friday 18.

3 P.M. we had a squall of rain—which was followed by a fresh Gale at West & clear Wr. ½ past 3 P.M. the Pilot came on board.

N.B. pt. Five Fingers Duskey Bay. Latt. 45° 42′ So 166° 9′ East.

Pt. Jackson entrance 33° 56′. Long. 151° 30′ Et.

7 A.M. Unmoored weighed and sailed out of the Harbour, in company with the Fancy, Brig Commanded by Capt. E. T. Dell.

Noon entrance of Pt. Jackson bore W.N.W. 8. Leagues.

Lat. 34″ 2′ S. Long. 151° 31′.

Saturday 19th.

We this evening found, that; in spite of all our vigilance, upwards of 40 Men & 1 Woman had found means to secret themselves in the ship,—and had escaped the search.

Up top Gallt Yards. Set T.G. Sails.

Latitude 34° 23′ S Long. 153° 22′

Sunday 20th. Sepr. 1795.

I did yesterday sign a paper which I will not swear to on a future occasion; it was concerning the prisoners there Mentioned.

An high swell from the Sod. caused the Ship to roll much.

The Fancy in company.

Lat. 34° 16′ Long. 153° 12′

Monday 21st Septr.

Of the convicts mentioned on Saturday 4 are Carpenters this may look as if we had conceald them but I am certain it was not the case.

The Fancy ahead.

Lat. 34° 10′. Long. 153° 42′.

* The vessels “Britannia” (Raven) and “Endeavour” (Bampton) were lying near one another in Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, New South Wales, when this portion of the log commences.

page 521

Tuesday 22nd.

Lon: at 1 P.M. for Lunars 155° 48′ Et.

Lat. 34° 32′ Long. 155° 34′.

Wednesday 23d Sepr. 1795.

Made a signal for the Fancy to haul up & join us.

Shortened sail for the Fancy.

Set the Mainsail & Driver.

158° 6′ Lunar. Bearing & distance Five Fingers Pt. Duskey B. S. 36 E.

Lat. 36° 49′ Long. 157° 32′

Thursday Sepr. 24th.

Struck top Gallt Yards & Masts. Close Rft. topsails.

An high following sea.

The Fancy in company.

Noon Pt. 5 Fingers bore S 33° 21′ distant 15 ⅓ Leags.

Lat. 39° 23′ Long. 160° 30′.

Friday 25th.

Fancy in company.

Out reefs.

Noon Pt five fingers S 31° 35′ Et 96 ⅓ Ls.

Lat. 41° 36′ Long. 162° 40′.

Saturday 26th. Sept. 1795.

Fancy in company.

Lat, 43° 6′. Long. 164° 4′.

Sunday 27.

The Fancy in company.

Lat, 43° 34′. Lon. 164°.

Monday 28th.

Lat. 43° 28′. Long. 164° 17′.

Tuesday 29th. September 1795.

A long S.E. swell.

The Brig in company.

Lat. 43° 56′. Long. 164° 29′.

Wednesday.

Noon made the signal for the Fancy to alter the course steered one point to Port.

Fancy ahead.

Set the Mainsail.

Hauled the mainsail up for the Brig to come up with us.

Lat. 45°. Lon. 165° 9′.

Thursday October 1st.

Fancy a long dist. to Windward.

Lat. 45° 53′.

page 522

Friday October 2nd, 1795.

At 2 P.M. in a sauall we carried away the fore Yard in the slings unbent the sail and got it down. Clued up. Furled the Fore & Mizen topsails. In mainsail.

Down top Gallant Mast.

Brot. roo.

Empd. making a fore Yard out of a sheer Mast.

Lat. 46° 1′.

Saturday 3rd Octr.

The wind continues as fresh as before from the Northward. We veered at 1 P.M. and made all the sail we were able. In the evening we had the fore Yard replaced and the foresail set. At 9 P.M. we set the Fore topsail—and at 12 Handed in again.

In the morning it blew excessive hard, we were employed all hands at the Pumps, the ship having made much water by working.

A heavy and confused sea.

Lat. 46°.

Sunday. 4th.

The pumps going constantly the whole 24 hours. All hands employed stowing the anchors in board to ease the ship forward.

In the morning the Jib boom and Spritsail Yard were got in for the same purpose.

Strong Gales from the Northward.

Lat. 47° 18′.

Monday the fifth.

Strong gales with cloudy weather. The ship still continuing to work very much,—always one, at times, two Pumps going.

Latt South.

[Latitude and longitude not given, and no more entries until the 12th. Two pages are cut out here.—The Editor.]

Transactions, Remarks &c on board the Endeavour at Duskey
Bay, New Zealand
.

1795: October 12th, Saturday. On the morning of this day I attended Captains. Bampton and Dell to Luncheon Cove with an intent of seeing the vessel which Capt. Raven's People had built and left there; we arrived at about 9 o'clock and landed at the wharf, which was still standing, but was knocked off the posts which supported it, by the carelessness of the boats crew; we caught a few fish in the entrance of the cove, which we fried, and ate in the house; we afterwards looked at the page 523 vessel and I was a little vexed to hear them express a dislike to almost every part of her. We found in the House, which had, thro' violence of the weather lost a part of its thatch; a number of Casks, among which, was four which appeared full, one also was half full of salt. The Try pot* and steam were as they were left. The plank which had covered the vessell and drying house, had a part blown off, but was sound, and well seasoned. Some of the planks of ye vessell had shrunk and a plank or two on the bows at the wooden ends had rent. We set off for the Seal Islands at 11 and kill'd 15 Seals. We returned in the evening on board.

Sunday, 13th. In the morning we hoisted the long boat out. We were called into the cabin in consequence of a letter which Mr. Bowell had written to Captain Bampton which Capt. Bampton read to us; it requested leave to resign the birth he fill'd of Chief Officer; the Captn. would not consent to a discharge but consented to his resigning his Office which he appointed Mr. Waine to fill. Mr. Weathrall 2nd Officer and Myself third. We were employed sending empty Casks from the fore Hold to send on shore.

Monday 14th. The day was very very well occupied in heaving the ballast out, the weather of this day has been warm and clear, which has been the case since we have been here. Mr. Weathrall with the whole of the Europeans were employed on shore, felling timber for building a store house; on a stoney beach opposite to where the ship lay, and where the Britannia had wooded in 1793.

Tuesday 15th. The Captain with Captain Dell set out on a party to Pickersgile Harbour. Mr. Arms went with Mr. Bowell to the Seal Islands.

Tuesday 15th. We were employed as before, at 8 in the evening the Captain returned from Pickersgile Harbour, he had shot two Redbills and a Duck—and had caught some fish— and appeared very well pleased with the excursion. Messrs Bowell and Arms returned soon after with a few fish, they had not kill'd any seals, being unused to the sport. In the morning we were employed getting plank and sundry other articles on shore, from what I have seen this day, of the condition of the ship I think it will be unsafe, attempting to proceed in her to India. This day has been cloudy, in the night only we had heavy rain. Mr. Arms went to Commorant Cove and shot about a dozen and a half of wild fowl among which was four painted ducks.

Wednesday 16th. This day has exceeded, in warmth, and pleasantness, all I ever before saw, In Duskey Bay; We have

* [Note in Manuscript.] An Iron boiler of 84 gallons.

page 524 been employed in sending on shore plank, Gun Carriages, and Empty Casks. Mr. Arms went to haul the seine in Goose Cove and returned without a fish. The mess party had good success. Mr. Weathrall and party on shore building a storehouse.

Thursday 17.—We have this day had frequent flurries from the Valley, the sky has been clear and the weather pleasant. We were employed sending plank &c. on shore.

Friday 18th. The night rainy and the succeeding morning cloudy, the forenoon was, however, clear and serene; We were obliged to muster all hands, and threaten to turn them ashore, they having, of late been rather backward in the discharge of their Duty. The greater part of the day was expended in sending on shore the Guns; the remaining part starting some water from the After Hold.

Saturday 19th. This day began with fine weather, in the night we had rain and cloudy wr. in the morning, we got the remainder of the Guns out, two of which were lost by the upsetting of raft. Two anchors were also sent on shore. I forgot to mention that on Thursday last the Carpenter—in below at the breasthooks, prized the lower one 2 inches with his axe— a proof of the very decayed situation of the ship at that part.

Sunday 20th. Cloudy weather succeeded by pleasant and clear. In the morning we were getting out the bowsprit, We were also desired to survey the ship, the following persons were present. Viz: Mr. E. T. Dell, Commander of the Fancy, Snow; Messrs. Dennison & Fell his First and 2nd Officers. Mr. Wm. Bowell, passenger, Mr. Arms Do Messrs Waine & Weathrall and myself attended by the Carpenters of both vessels.

The condition we found her in, justifies what has before been said, from occular demonstration we found, that, all the breast Hooks were loose, they were on the spot prized very easily up with a Crow. Of the lower one the bolts had worked 2 inches out. Her stern was entirely decayed, and the remaining parts, as timbers, plank & lining in so bad a condition that we think it a miracle she held together in the bad weather we experienced.

I afterwards went with the crew of the Pinnace, to cut flax to thatch the House, there being but small quantities and that scattered so wide and obviously that we got but little.

Sunday. After dinner, I took the boat to the head of the Cove in hopes of finding better success, but with little effect to compensate the loss, I went to look at the place, where we, in our last voyage in the Britannia, saw a great fall of water and which, I had some curiosity to see; it was now perfectly dry, about 10 yards up the valley, I heard a very loud noise seeming to proceed from a considerable cascade, I followed it page 525 and found it came from a subterranean passage under a rock which had only one opening, thro which I crept, the hole I was in was dark. I heard the water still louder, but saw none it appeared, by the particular hollow sound to be at some distance below me it is rather remarkable, that though I travelled about 150 Yds. to see if I could discover its source, or the opening into this subterranean passage, I found none.

Monday 21st. Cloudy weather without rain, Empd. getting up shears for the Foremast; I hinted to Ct. Bampton the difficulty of getting flax for thatch and he desired me to rig the Long Boat to get the plank which is cut at Luncheon Cove This has Empd me the greater part of this day.

Tuesday 22nd. At 6 in the Morning I set off for Luncheon Cove and arrived at about 10. We loaded the boat, and Cooked some Victuals for the people, we then set off for the Ship, where we arrived at 5 in the evening, the foremast was out and shears shifted for the Main Mast. The weather all this day has been foggy, a light air from the S.S.W.

Wednesday 23. Very pleasant weather. We this morning discovered that some rascals had broke open the tank in which the Rice was kept, and had stolen a considerable quantity. Instant search was made for obtaining the knowledge of persons so void of sense and honesty, a quantity of rice was found in the possession of Thomas Beadle (one of those whom Capt. Bampton had given a passage) which had been stolen by Carey (a soldier deserted and who had secreted himself in the ship) and, as both were evidently guilty, On. B. delivered them to be punished by the People on shore which was done: It is a common maxim I have adopted, of thinking, that, an Idle worthless fellow is scarcely, if ever, honest, in this, as in all similar cases I daily see it verified.

What we have most to regret is, that our own people are guilty, as well as the Sydnians, several of the Steersmen* having been seen in the act, we have not, however, as yet, been able to catch them; or they would have been severely punished. If they steal, we cannot expect anything else of the others, who have daily examples set them by those persons who ought, and it must be supposed, would endeavour to detect others, in the commission of crimes so much to the prejudice of the whole.

We sent all our rice, Dholl, Arms & Ammunition on board the Fancy. The remainder of the day we were Empd. unrigging & getting out the Main Mast.

Thursday 24th. The day began with a thick haze and light airs from N.N.W. at 8 A.M. I set off with the long boat for

* [Note in Manuscript.] Seamen appropriated to the uses only of steering, stowing, and repairing the ship sails.

page 526 a dozen casks of water, the falls about Facill Harbour being dry, I went to Earshell Cove, and fill'd the casks at a place, where the water runs from a rock; and where, it appears to be a continual stream. On our return the wind freshened and blew so hard that with twelve butts of water, I could hardly carry the whole sails, we kept them, however, up until we had the misfortune to carry away the bowsprit & Gaff at once; it was with great difficulty we were able to fetch boat passage; which, however, we effected and at 3 in the afternoon arrived on board. The Mizen Mast had been got out & the shears down. 1 this day signed 3 Papers concerning the condition & survey of the Ship.

Friday 25th. Cloudy weather throughout; Employed getting the two New Cables on shore, in the afternoon we unmoored the Ship, and sent one Long Boat-load of rigging on Shore.

Saturday 26th. In the morning, cloudy with showers of rain. At 6 I took the Pinnance & 4 men to look for an empty Bbl. which had drifted from the house on shore, on my way 1 saw two brace of Ducks, they were so tame as to let the boat row almost on them; one of them I struck with the boat's tiller, but not hard enough to disable him, they still kept swimming ahead of the boat, and I regretted I had no Gun. We found the Cask on one of the Parrot Islands full of water. Employed sending ballast from the Main and after Hatch ways. Our boat has daily been sent to fish with a man from each mess, and they have very seldom caught less than a fish a man for this whole Ships Company.

1795. Sunday 27th. Very disagreeable day, as was the preceding night, at 2 in the morning, the ship struck against a rock which caused her to sal'l considerably; at 8 A.M. we sounded on it, and had ½ 1–¼ less 2 and 2 fms. in diffierent parts; it seems to join to that on which the Britannia lay in 1793. The first opportunity I have, I will make a sketch of the Cove. The morning was occupied in shifting our birth and the afternoon getting ballast out. The wind which has blown in heavy gusts, has varied from W.N.W. to NE.

Monday 28th. As disagreeable as the day which proceeded it; rain & wind. It was found necessary for Cn Bampton a second time, to assure the people, as his last and fixed resolution, that they who had refused, to assist in the necessary duty of the Ship, should receive no assistance from him; this, accompanied with a reproof, and gentle admonition, had a very good effect on all, they promised to attend strictly to the discharge of their duty. It is resolved that they are all to live on shore, to be more at hand.

page 527

Tuesday 29th. Rain in showers, wind variable. Empd getting ballast out. Nothing remarkable has happened.

Wednesday 30th. Throughout the whole day, we had heavy gusts from the Northward. We were employed sending on board the Fancy, sails & sundry stores.

Thursday 31st. This day has been the most disagreeable we have hitherto had, it has blown with uncommon violence from the Northwd. and has been attended with excessive heavy rain.

Friday 1st Novr. Still rainy, altho' the wind has abated, much of its former violence; We found the Starboard Cable cut entirely thro' by rubbing against the rocks. We slippd the other and hauled the Ship on shore for the purpose of seeing if it was possible to get her high enough to repair her as it was Spring Tide.

[One page torn out here.—The Editor.]

Friday 6th. I went to the upper part of the cove to cut down some trees for plank, the first we fell'd went into the water and sunk, the next we got into the water and, by good luck, it floated. We towed it to the beach and got it upon the Pit, when, deuce take it! it broke down; and our day's labour was lost.

Saturday 7th. Rigging sheers for new saw Pit, we built one on 6 Butts, thus:— sketch of rigging sheers

Sunday 8th. In the morning we hoisted the piece of timber on the pit. I afterwards cut another piece, and Brought it to the landing place. We expended the remaining part of the day rigging another pair of sheers for a new pit.

Monday 9th. This morning I hoisted the piece of timber which was cut yesterday on the pit. The weather has been very pleasant these two days.

Tuesday 10th. Rain in showers with a constant Haze. Employed cutting timber for the long Boat.

Wednesday 11th. Having little to do, this day, I accompanied Capt. B. to Luncheon Cove. The weather, which before 8 o'clock in the morning looked threatening, assumed a more inviting appearance. We started at ½ past 8 and arrived at Luncheon Cove at 10—from whence (after performing that page 528 ceremony from which the Cove was named) we pull'd to the Seal Isles to fish &c. The wind freshening at N.W. raised a great surf, which prevented our landing at the outermost Island. We, however, pull'd inwards alongshore, and happening to see a very large seal, I begged of Cn. Bampton to permit me to land which he complied with, hardly had I stepped out of the boat before 3 very heavy surfs came about me, I had no club with me; the boathook, which I had thrown on shore for that purpose had been carried out by the send back of the sea. And had the animal attacked me I was defenceless. My anxiety for the boat was greater than for the event of the Seal. I had however, some wish to kill him, but the heaviness of the surf prevented my moving from the summit of the rock on which I stood, like “Patience on a monument, smiling at Grief.” At last, however, the sea went down, they took me in and we made the best of our way for the ship, where we arrived at 7 o'Clock.

Since my writing the above day's work we have by some means lost the day of the week & month. The interval has been occupied in different events & employments, tending chiefly towards the fitting our vessels.

On Friday the 18th Dec. I had an opportunity of getting the distance of the Sun & Moon, by which I learned the real day.

On Saturday 19th—I went on shore and set all hands to work and got a piece of timber on the Saw Pit. Mr. Bowell has been three days indisposed, he is now of opinion that his illness proceeds from an inflammation of the Liver. I for my part, am hearty, the Captain is so, and that is a great blessing to us all.

A quarrel which has been sometime hovering about at last was settled the other day. Mr. Alms, a passenger, had offered his assistance to Capt. B. to catch fish for the ship's Compy and had obtained the small boat for that purpose, Mr. Wain, chief Officer, finding himself hurt, (as the prior application had not been made for the boat to him), denied the Two men which Capt. B. had granted, from going in her, but Mr. A. paid no attention to the denial & took them. From this time the two gentlemen have never been on the most intimate terms,—Mr. A. went to Luncheon with Mr. Weathrall for the purpose of avoiding a quarrel. Mr. W. always wished for one—Necessity brot. Mr. Alms to Facille Harbour and the wind being at S.SW he sailed up. The morning after his arrival I was on the deck with Mr. Alms, and seeing the Yard of his Sail had been cut, I jocosely said—“So Mr. Jonny, I have a reckoning to make with you for spoiling that yard.” He in the same manner page 529 replied “Whoever says that yard is spoilt, knows nothing of it”—Mr. Waine was walking the deck, he came to Mr. Alms, in a very impudent manner, thrust his face near to Mr. A's and said “I said you had spoilt the Yard, I know about it, and you are a S——n Puppy.” Mr. Arms made no answer to so foul an execration. He wished to preserve the utmost quietude untill the Vessels were in the Water. Soon after he came from Luncheon Cove, and wrote a Note to Mr. Waine, which that Gentleman threw overboard, without opening. He then called him into the round House, and begged that I would attend to see what happened. The words were nearly the following.

Mr. Alms to Mr. W. You know, Sir, I suppose what the expression was which I recd. from you. I cannot put it off any longer, but must have an immediate apology or satisfaction.

Mr. W. I do not think I gave any affront which could subject me to such a thing—I decline both.

Mr. A. Mr. Murry, you heard all that passed, give your opinion. Did Mr. Waine give me any provocation to act as I do, or not?

Murry, He gave such provocation as I could not have been silent on.

Mr. A. You hear Mr. Waine? I now desire you to ask my pardon before Mr. Murry, or to give me satisfaction in another manner this instant.

Mr. W. I will not! I cannot think of fighting a man who has been used to practise a Pistol. I don't like to be shot at like a bird.

Mr. Alms. That's nonsense, Sir. here are two pistolls, take your choice of them, load them yourself, you shall have every advantage I can offer, but as you have refused to make attonement for the offence. You must fight me.

Mr. W. I cannot.

Mr. A. Then, Sir, You are a Coward, a Dastardly Coward! Mr. Murry, you hear what I say. I call Mr. Waine a Coward, who would dare to affront a gentleman, and refuse him satisfaction. Mr. W. you are a Coward, I shall publish this in India.

Mr. W. Well, if you call me a Coward I shall act accordingly.

(He then left the Cabin).

Since this the Gentlemen have not spoke to each other.

Sunday 20th. We were employed cutting timber and plank.

Monday 21st. In the same.—Exceeding fine weather.

Tuesday 22nd. Ditto. Schooner Watering.

page 530

Wednesday 23rd—Employed variously. In the afternoon I drew up the names of the Crews of each respective vessel, which amounted to 244 Persons, Officers &c. included. Of which 90 go in the Providence. 90 in the Resource. The remaining 64 in the Fancy.

Thursday 24th. Pleasant breezes at N.NW. attended with cloudy weather Employed watering and wooding the Providence and planking the Resource.

Friday 25th. was Christmas day, our situation not permitting us to spare a whole, Captn. Bampton indulged the people with half a day, and gave the artificers, a portion of Mutton or Pork, with some Arrack, each man. Nor were the Ragged gang forgotten. Mr. Alms who had been previously sent to fish, returned in the morning with Seal & fish sufficient for all; to this the Captain added a dram. As for ourselves, we fared sumptuously, and altho' the absent were not toasted, I dare say, they were remembered. I can at least answer for myself.

Saturday 26th. This day our operations were rassumed. I cannot but perceive the very great partiality the Capt. seems to feel for Mr. Weathrall and the vessel which he commands. I think he wants to have vessel ready with the Fancy. The visible attention paid her, and the subsequent want of care in Mr. Waine has thrown the Resource considerably aback. On examination, I cannot accuse myself of a jealous disposition, but, I think that it would displease me exceedingly to have the attention transferred from me to a junior officer.

Sunday 27th. This morning Captn. Bampton asked me, if I would stay behind with the Resource? I willingly replied I would. But I believe I showed some inward uneasiness; I had before said I would not sail in her, I now thought that it was unsafe, and that I should run some risque, in short, I had made up my mind to avoid sailing in her, but had determined to let no one know this resolution untill I had heard the Captain's mind on the subject. His asking me if I would stay, put an entire stop to, shall I? and I made the sacrifize, which I think the least part of my duty to Capt. Bampton. I am only afraid he discovered some inward uneasiness which I endeavoured to conceal, as I know that if he thought any person under him uneasy in their situations he would sooner take it himself than see them unhappy.

Monday, 28th. Rainy disagreeable weather. After having cut two pieces of timber, I went to dinner and recd. Capt. B's order to cut two knees—which I did immediately. The afternoon pleasant weather.

Tuesday 29th. Unsettled weather the wind fresh at N.N.E. attended with showers of Rain. Employed as necessary—I this day cut down 3 pieces of timber and pitted one— page 531 Wednesday, 30th. Fresh gales from the Northward with light showers—After getting 2 pieces of timber pitted. I fell'd a tree for the Rudder and cut three knees for the Vessel.

Thursday 31st. This afternoon Capt. B. made a division of the Stores and provisions.

Friday Jan. 1st, 1796. The day was most gloriously usher'd in by a quarrel, between Capt. Bampton and Mr. Waine, the latter was accused of discontent—Hitherto I have not been attacked by the Bull dogs of party—whenever I meet one I sheer off.

Saturday 2nd. This day was one of the finest that we have had since our arrival—it proved a day of the greatest importance to me. I have as I mentioned before, been rather unhappy at the idea of being left here—I was afraid of hurting Captn. Bampton's feelings on the subject, as I had every reason to think he wished me to stay, and I knew that the attachment of the people to me, wou'd expedite the work, but Capt. Dell this day assured me that it was Capt. B's particular wish that I should accompany him. I therefore complied with his wish, in doing which I did myself a service, as it lessened the painful anxiety which has for sometime past, troubled me.

Sunday 3rd.—Fresh gales of wind from the northward, employed cutting timber for the vessell which was launch'd and pitting pines for the Sawyers.

Thursday 7th. We weighed and sailed out of Facille Harbour, we had a very light breeze from the S.E. and the Providence was in company. At 9 A.M. we were abreast of Pt. Five fingers, the wind chopping suddenly round to the sea, we were obliged to make 3 boards before we could wr. the Point. The Schooner was astern at 10 o'clock, at ½ past 10 we pass'd Pt. five fingers, and ran out into the offing, where, at Noon, we brot. too for the Schooner, and at 1 P.M. veered and stood in for ber, she was then close under the Fingers—at 2 she was without them and we veered upon coming up they informed us that they had narrowly escaped, being lost upon the Point—The vessel had missed stays, and as it fell calm they could not veer her, the tide setting her among the Rocks—A light, air, however, released them from the painful anxiety which they must have felt.

Wherever I have followed our immortal country man. Captn. Cook, I have never been so presuming as to aim at description, he has left very little to be done at any Port, or on any Coast he ever visited, but, for the information of the few friends I have, and as memorandums to myself, should I again visit this part of the world; I think my efforts will not appear altogether blameable; as the observations I make, are such as Captn. Cook, had not an opportunity of knowing, or such as he would have known, had he staid as long, and visited Duskey Bay, as often as I have.

page 532

In Captain Cook's description of the Country and the Harbours of Duskey Bay, I find not one error; some things have indeed escaped his notice, which good fortune has pointed out to us, and future Navigators may discover, what we never saw. For an accurate description of Duskey Bay, I should refer to Cooks 2nd Voyage, with the following observations as additions which I presume will be found of some service.

A commander unacquainted with Duskey Bay, having a chart of the Harbours before him, would chuse Facile Harbour as the safest and most commodious. In this however he would choose one of the worst, as I shall endeavour to prove.

At Duskey Bay, the winds blow constantly in the summer months from the northwards; in Winter, as invariably from the S.Wd. I never knew of an instance of a Southerly gale of wind in Summer, or a Northerly one in the winter season. It therefore becomes necessary to chuse Your Harbour according to the season, in this prudence will direct the choice. You will naturally chuse an harbour from which you may with ease get to Sea — in this case, I know of no better Harbour than Cascade Cove in Winter, or the Bason, and little Harbour in Summer, it is necessary to go out, in summer with a northerly wind, as the southerly ones blow too strong and throw too much Sea into the sound to admit of a ship working against it; In settled weather, by weighing very early, and getting into the sound you may, (and as it seldom fails) will, get a land breeze from the S.E—about 9 A.M. sometimes sooner the Sea breeze sets in, and if you are after this time, 'tis fifty to one you do not get out that day.

But in Winter, you may get out of the Son. Harbour with any winds, and run out of the North entrance with a southern gale, which I should prefer, as you may get an offing sooner by running out of the Son. entrance, the land between being a promontory, which projects considerably into the Sea.

The great height of the land about Facile Harbour and the immense depth of the valleys, or rather chasms between the hills. cause the wind to come down in heavy gusts, a ship must have good tackle to ride a Northerly gale out, in Facile Harbour, whereas in Little Harbour and the Bason, the puffs are neither frequent nor heavy, but the winds are more settled and blow more steadily and with less violence. In no other part of Duskey Bay have I felt the gusts of so much violence as in Facile Harbour.

There are several stragling rocks lying on the Eastern Shore of the North Cove which are very dangerous, and the ground in several parts is foul and has considerable over falls. If any persons runs into this Harbour I would advise them to keep close to the west Point and give the other shore a good birth, keeping about ⅔ of the channel over and run well into the bight to the westwd. of the Facile Rock, where you may anchor in page 533 14 fms. soft mud, and if you drive here you will haul the anchor up a mud bank.

When in the offing it is not easy to distinguish Duskey Bay, and I had nearly mistaken it, for we made the land of Cape West, and stood in for the bay untill about two miles from the shore, when I discovered that we had mistaken this for Duskey Bay, it came on to blow hard soon after and we stood out to sea. Mr Malen. the mate of the Britannia had been sent by Captain Raven* to examine this bay, and reported that it was a very dangerous coast, straggling rocks extending some miles to sea. At the time we veered to stand off we were about 1½ mile from ye shore, and had a small rock, which was the only one we saw, within us, it might be ¾ of a mile from the Shore, in allowing it so great a distance, I make the greatest that can be supposed. The bay seemed to us to have as fair entrance as Duskey Bay, with this difference that in the North entrance there are several rocky Isles, a large Isld lies in the middle, which, with the great similitude this Pt. has to Five Fingers, made me think it Duskey Bay — the South entrance is also much like that of Duskey, but the Seal Isles are further to the Sod. From these circumstances I think it highly worth the trouble to examine this bay, as it may afford shelter to ships who cannot fetch Duskey, with a Northerly wind; but from what I have said I would not wish any person to venture too far with a Ship.

The Officer who went to examine this bay, was not a man of the most enterprising genius, I wonder not therefore that he did not so clearly determine the truth; and I am led to believe that he never went so far to see it at all; I suppose he saw the rock which I mentioned, from the boat and as he kept close along shore, it had the appearance of being at a greater distance than it really is,—but for his account of a reef extending from the No. Pt. across the Bay, I cannot account. We saw not a breaker, but the surf only which runs upon the shore.

The timber which grows here, would answer very well for plank, for the Ship Builder, Joiner or Cabinet Maker, this is the opinion of our Carpenter in the Britannia. He being as well acquainted with its properties as any man of his profession; and the Joiner preferred it to the wood of Port Jackson or the Brazill wood. But I think it would be a task of some trouble, to get a Cargo of spars, sufficiently long for the Masts of Ships.

To procure turpentine, we made several experiments, by tapping, &c. but found no method of extracting any, and I believe that none is to be got from them. In the centre of the large Spruce trees grows a gum of a light colour with streaks of red, this is found to have all the properties of Pitch when melted, page 534 but it is so hard, and grows in such small quantities, that it would be an endles job to extract sufficient for caulking a ship.

In the Pitch Pine trees, there is no gum of any sort but the bark emits a transparent resin which has a most agreeable smell, but it would take a man a week to get a Pound of it and would half of that be wasted thro' the moss which mixes with it, and is inseparable from it.

Capt. Cook has given so good a description of the Spruce Fir, that it is impossible to mistake it. But he has not taken any notice of the Pitch Pine—Birch—And large Myrtle.

The Pitch Pine is remarkable for its black bark, which when cut and rubbed with the finger smells agreeably. It generally grows from 20 to 40 feet without branches, and the wood is much like Norway Pitch Pine, but whiter.

The Birch is only fit for fuel—Its uncommon whiteness would cause it to be preferred for decks, &c. but it splits with the smallest blow, and, of all the woods at Duskey Bay it is the least durable—It grows from a large stump about 50—60 & even 70 feet with branches included. The boughs spread more than any other tree and the bark is generally white, somewhat resembling the hazel in England.

The Myrtle is not so large, it grows near the water, has a red bark, and is known by the smell of its leaf which very much resembles the smell of the leaf from which its takes its name, it is of use for turners or Cabinet makers, makes excellent block Pins, and from its hardness may be converted to many uses with which I am unacquainted. There are many other kinds of wood, which, as they scarcely deserve notice, I have not mentd but the Spruce Pine is the best for Naval Purposes, and the Pitch for small spars.

[In the manuscript the name of one of the passengers is spelt “Arms” in one place, “Alms” in another.

At Norfolk Island Mr Murry went on board the “Providence” on Sunday, 31st January, 1796, and until 17th April, the log is the log of the “Providence,” the first vessel built in Australasia, of Australasian timber. She made the Loyalty Islands on 5th February. An entry from the Journal of the Providence reads thus:—

“It is the intention of Capt. Bampton to leave us, being a bad sailer to ourselves, this day (6th Feb) we have kept ahead of the brig, and, as we have no ballast very little water and few good sails, the present time should I think be embraced for getting these points accomplished that we may proceed on our passage.”

On 10th April the position of the “Providence” was Lat. 1° 22′ S. and 119° 53 'E.—The Editor].

page 535

* During Murry's previous visit in the “Britannia.”