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Tales of Banks Peninsula

The Story Of The French Colonisation of Akaroa

The Story Of The French Colonisation of Akaroa.

As a fitting narrative to follow the last, the compiler has selected the following account of the French settlement, principally written from information furnished by Mr Wæckerlie, one of the original settlers, who came in the Comte de Paris.

About the year 1820, the adventurous seamen who had hitherto captured the whale in the Northern Ocean, found that the fish were fast decreasing in number, and turned longing eyes to the vast waters of the South Pacific, which voyagers had told them swarmed not only with many varieties of the whale tribe found in the north, hut also with the huge sperm, whose oil was of great value, as well as the spermaceti found in its head. A few soon ventured, and their good reports and great success induced many to follow their example. At first the Cape of Good Hope was chosen as the centre of the operations of those daring men, whose lives were in continual peril, but whose profits we r page 86enormous; but year by year they fished further and further, and the coasts of Australia and New Zealand were soon made tbe scene of their dangerous avocation.

About 1835, before the first representative of England (Captain Hobson) had taken up his residence in Auckland, an adventurous French mariner, named Captain L'Anglois, came on a whaling cruise to these seas, Amongst the many harbours that he visited was the beautiful Bay of Akaroa, the perfect safety of whose sheltered waters went straight to the heart of the rough seaman, after the fierce gales he had encountered in the stormy southern seas. The luxuriant vegetation that everywhere fringed the inlets, showed that the soil was of exceeding fruitfulness; the mighty pines that towered above their meaner fellows gave promise of a vast supply of timber; whilst the innumerable kakas, pigeons, and other native birds, that woke the echoes of the bush with their harmonies and discords, and the fish that swarmed in the waters of the bay, showed that an abundant supply of nutritious food would always be obtainable. So charmed was Captain L'Anglois with the tranquility of the spot, that, with a true Frenchman's love of France, he coveted it for his country, and determined to found a colony on this scene of primeval loveliness. It was in the year 1838 that he first had an opportunity of taking the premier steps in this direction, by purchasing all that part of the Peninsula from the Maoris which lies between Piraki and the Akaroa Heads. Mr Wæckerlie did not know the name of the chief from whom Captain L'Anglois purchased the land, and the price paid for it, but doubtless the amount, was a comparatively small one, (See pages 80 and 81.)

In 1838 Captain L'Anglois returned to France, and on his arrival he told some of his countrymen of the purchase he had made, and the result was the formation of a company to colonize this estate. The company appears to have been encouraged by the French Government, for an old ship of war called the Comte de Paris was lent to Captain L'Anglois to take out any persons who might be desirous of settling on his land, and another armed ship, page 87the L'Aube. was sent to New Zealand beforehand, under the charge of Commodore Lavaud, to project the colonists on their arrival. All this, however, was done quietly, for the English had already settled in parts of the islands, though New Zealand was not proclaimed a British colony till 1841. It was not till the middle of the year 1839 that the company was formed, under the name of the Nantes-Bordelaise Company. The principal people taking an active part were Captain L'Anglois and his brother, M. Jacques L'Anglois, and M. M. St. Croix and Eugene de Belligny. In August, 1839, the company advertised for emigrants in Havre de Gras, offering a free passage and the occupation of five acres of land on arrival, which would become the freehold of the occupier in five years, if cultivated within that time, but if not cultivated it would revert to the company. Each emigrant was also promised provisions sufficient to last eighteen months after landing in the settlement. There does not seem to have been much enthusiasm shown, for it was the first of January, 1840, before some thirty persons left Havre in a steamer bound to Rochefort, whence the Comte de Paris was to sail for the new colony. After an eight days' passage, they arrived at Rochefort only to find that the Comte de Paris was not nearly ready for sea. On the 8th March, 1840, everything was ready for a start, A good many more emigrants had joined at Rochefort, so that at that time there were 65 on board, which, with the officers and crew, made the total number of souls on board the Comte de Paris 105. There were six Germans amongst the emigrants. M. St. Croix de Belligny, who is, it is said, living in Auckland, acted as agent for the company, and by his great affability and skill he appears to have won universal goodwill. There were no stock on board the vessel, not even so much as a cat or dog, but there were choice collections of all sorts of seeds, and a number of carefully selected grape vines.

The start was a most unfortunate one, for the steamer that towed the vessel out missed the channel, and the Comte de Paris stuck in the mud, and had to be lightened page 88of part of her cargo before she could be got off. However, on the 19th March, these difficulties were surmounted, and a fair wind soon took the vessel out of sight of France. The first part of the passage was not eventful, but was very uncomfortable, for the Comte de Paris not only sailed very slowly, but steered very badly. The weather too was very rough, and all on board were glad when a short stay was made at an island in the tropics (probably St. Helena), where fresh provisions, including a bountiful supply of bananas, were procured. Four months after starting, when off the coast of Tasmania, a terrific storm of thunder and lightning was experienced. The lightning first struck the main topgallant and topmasts, and they both carried away. The seamen were terrified at the catastrophe, and great confusion ensued. Immediately orders were given to take all sail off the mizzen mast, but fortunately they were not immediately obeyed, or there would have been great loss of life, for a second flash struck the mizzen mast, and it carried away about eight feet from the deck, and the vessel broaching to it in the trough of the sea nearly capsized. Captain L'Anglois and his crew were, however, equal to the emergency. They cut away the wreck and rigged jury masts, and a month later they were off the Peninsula. Here two of the immigrants died, and, as their friends were desirous that they should be buried on land, the vessel anchored in Pigeon Bay, where the remains of the unfortunate colonists were interred on the beach. It was a primitive burial, and all traces of the graves have long since been swept away. Captain L'Anglois was anxious before entering Akaroa Harbour to ascertain if Commodore Lavaud had arrived there, and taken possession of the place, as previously arranged, so he despatched a whaleboat from Pigeon Bay for that purpose. Four days later the boat returned with the distressing intelligence that there was no sign of the frigate. On the 14th August the Comte de Paris sailed from Pigeon Bay, and anchored at Akaroa Beads on the 15th, and despatched another boat up the harbour in search of the lagging Commodore. This time the search was successful, for page 89they found the vessel had arrived, and the frigate's launch was sent to tow the Comte de Paris up the harbour. Very lucky it was for those on board that such was the case, for there was a heavy sea running at the Heads, and one of the flukes of the anchor had broken, and the vessel had drifted close to the rocks. However, the frigate's boat soon had her in tow, and once inside the Heads all difficulties were passed, and tbe following morning found her safe anchored off the future town of Akaroa, All on board were delighted and astonished at the delightful prospect, and the colonists were determined not to spend another night on board the ship, so all the spare sails and canvas were taken ashore, tents hastily rigged, and the wearied voyagers reposed that night where the Akaroa Mail office used to stand (now the property of Mr Joseph Hammond). The morning of the 17th was calm and beautiful, and the colonists were pleasantly awakened at the first dawn of day by the notes of innumerable birds.

A strange circumstance had been noticed by the new arrivals in coming up the harbour. When the Comte de Paris was towed past Green Point, mar where Mrs. J. C. Buckland's residence now stands, all on board saw a small group of men surrounding a flagstaff, from which flew gaily in the morning breeze" the Union Jack of Old England." Such a sight naturally surprised and disturbed the new comers, but they were told it meant nothing, but was merely a piece of vain glory on the part of two or three Englishmen who happened to be whaling in the vicinity. The real facts of the case, however, were by no means so unimportant as was represented, It appears that Commodore Lavaud, on his way from England, touched at Auckland, and that whilst his vessel was lying in the calm waters of the Waitemata, Captain Hobson, who then represented British interests in the north, though New Zealand had not been made an English Colony, entertained them right royally. It appears that in an unguarded moment the Commodore let out the secret of the French expedition to Akaroa, and what was more injudicious, spoke with rapture of the beauty of Akaroa page 90the soil, and other natural advantages. Now Captain Hobson was a man of action and of foresight, He saw that New Zealand had a great future before it, and was anxious that when it was made a jewel of the British Crown, it should be without a flaw, He then called in stratagem to his aid. and whilst the gay Frenchmen were enjoying themselves ashore after their weary voyage, a small brig of war, named the Britomart, was secretly despatched under the charge of Captain Stanley, conveying Mr. Robinson, who was instructed to make the bast of his way to Akaroa, and, if possible, hoist the English flag there before the French arrived. Meanwhile, Commodore Lavaud appears to have been in no hurry to reach his destination, for he knew the sailing qualities of the Comte de Paris, and did not think she could arrive here till the end of August. Besides, the company was good, and he knew Akaroa was only a beautiful wilderness at the bast, so it was early in August before the L'Aube sailed down the east coast and passed through Cook Straits on her way to the Peninsula, Meanwhile, Mr. Robinson and hia expedition had not had a very good time of it, and it was with very desponding hearts that on the 10th August they reached Akaroa, for they feared the French must have been before them and taken possession of the place. What was their delight then to find that no foreign keel had ploughed the waters of the bay. No time was lost, the English flag was at once hoisted, and the country claimed for the British Crown on the 11th. It was not too soon, however, for four days later Commodore Lavaud arrived. But the new colonists knew nothing of this. The Commodore held a conference with Mr. Robinson, and it was agreed that whilst the French man of war remained in the harbour, the English flag should not be hoisted, and the fact of their having taken possession before the arrival of the French be kept a secret, for fear it should lead to disturbances between the English and the new comers. The secret was-well kept, and though of course many rumours were current, it was not till years afterwards that the arrivals by the Comte de Paris were aware that they were page break
Commodore Lavaud's House, 1840.

Commodore Lavaud's House, 1840.

page 91living in an English, and not a French Colony. As soon as possible after the landing on the 16th August the land was allotted to the settlers. As before stated, the bush came down almost to the water's edge in many places, so there was little clear land. It was therefore arranged to divide the land facing the sea into two and a half acre blocks, giving one to each emigrant, and to let them select their other two and a half acres where they liked, it being the condition of the tenure that the land should be cultivated within five years of the arrival, or revert to Captain L'Anglois, The colonists all avoided selecting land in the bush, but took up the clearings which they found here and there, which were then covered with toi toi. They lived altogether in the tents for about a month, but by that time they nearly all removed to the whares they had built on their respective sections. The six Germans who were amongst the emigrants found that they could not get their sections altogether in Akaroa, so they determined to explore Captain L'Anglois' estate further. They found a beautiful bay with plenty of clear land a little higher up the harbour, and asked permission of the Commodore to loca'e themselves there. Permission was granted, five acres were parcelled out for each, and the bay was christened with the name it still bearg of German Bay. The Germans built a great V hut, 40 feet by 80 feet wide of timber and rushes, with proper divisions, and in this they passed a very pleasant winter. Commodore Lavaud built a magazine in Akaroa, just where the Courthouse now stands, and this was used for the storage of provisions and tools, and also for a hospital. Everything went peacefully along, the seeds germinated well, the vines flourished, and the colonists were content with their prospects. The French settlement was, of course, under, French law, which was administered by Commodore Lavaud. Mr. Robinson was the English Resident Magistrate, but this office was almost a sinecure.