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Heels 1981

The Ego Trip of Nelson Lakes

page 45

The Ego Trip of Nelson Lakes

It was about two weeks before the August break when I put a notice on the board: "Climbing,Nelson Lakes,August,see me." Much to my surprise there were two takers, Ronnie Lock and Simon Leicester. On Saturday morning at 5.30 my alarm rang.it was all on. After catching the ferry and bus we walked from St Arnaud to Lake Head. The bond of a common goal was beginning to emerge;the seeds of success of a trip. Our organisation was not the best and our itinerary was vague.

The next day dawnwed overcast,with a light drizzle. We set off for Cupola Basin. Ronnie managed to leave his bread and torch behind,then dropped his gloves on the track. Luckily Terry's party picked them up for us. We stopped at John Tait for lunch then plodded up through the beech forest and snow to Cupola Basin. This hut sits on the bushline and is a friendly retreat from a hard day.

Monday,overcast - our first climbing day. When I think of climbers,I see toiling people in the early morning sun. People working against the problems of the climb,one with nature. Climbing mountains for a leader means decision making, evaluation of team. There are very tangible ideas of ambition,courage,fear. Self-confidence and skill must be blended,and an honest evaluation of the climb made. We are "Ego Trippers",with their self-confidence,but we still retain the frailty of self-doubt and self-deception,the conquering of which has as much to do with climbing as with gaining peaks.

We attempted Mt Hopeless by the SW ridge. It is a pinnacled,drifting jumble, rocks,snow and cornices. The "Ego Trip" climbed well until rebuffed by a difficult pitch 3 rope lengths from the summit. We returned to the hut in fading light, dejected and exhausted from 11 hours on soft snow. There was a confidence that we could work together and solve problems we could not handle alone.

As Tuesday dawned bright and clear we plugged steps up to Mt Cupola,and after 3½ hours stood atop it. We had a tangible victory but not the victory of yesterday. The success an outsider can see. Lunchtime saw us back at the hut,a warm brew and quick pack. We were off again,down to John Tait and up to Upper Travers. At the latter all the VUWTC parties congregated. We were met with a warm brew and a massage and given a bed for the night. Our dinner was quite typical;an eight pint billy-full. After eating until close to indigestion we told tales of our dramatic adventures to any willing ear.

Day five,and over Travers Saddle in weather that looked as if it could turn nasty. Terry's party came along as we plugged another line of steps up and over. With a bit of bumsliding we all made it to the bottom in one piece. We raced off to Blue Lake for a crack at Franklin. Thursday dawned with high winds,swirling clouds obscuring the peaks. We spent a comfortable day lounging,eating and drinking, chatting about climbing,the weather etc with the other occupants. It cleared in the afternoon and Terry and party arrived for a visit,leaving soon after.

Friday,beautifully fine. We were up at 5.30 and left the chilly hut for the freezing outdoors an hour later. We chose an unconventional route and all went well,except maybe for the prodigious amount of powder snow. Gaining a point high page 46on the ridge south of Franklin I had to decide whether to press on or go back. It was 10.30 and in strong sun you want to be off the mountain by noon. We decided to press on and after some steep snow climbing reached the summit at about 12. After a quick descent we all got back to safety. It was only then that I could let myself feel elated. My thoughts had up to then been concentrated on party safety. As I walked along the shore of the lake,bright blue in the afternoon sun,dark green trees, crisp clean snow under those dominating mountains I felt success;there was value in my effort. I had aspired to gain those heights,now I had. It was the "Ego Trip."

Back at the hut we now had the less romantic challenge,that of tramping out to St Arnaud by 10.30am on Sunday. We reached Forks Hut at dusk and settled down for a cold night. A heavy frost on Saturday morning and we were off at 8,chasing the wind to get out. More pressure,fewer stops. Quick lunch at Sabine Hut,then over into the Howard. Fatigue showing,muscles hurting,across the flats. Short rest,then up,up and over to Speargrass Hut. Nine hours on the move left us sitting in front of the fire,just warming ourselves,dinner and bed.

The next morning,again up early and off. Down to the Buller Bridge - 10.22. We arrive with 8 minutes to spare after 9 days. I'd like to thank Ronnie and Simon for putting up with me in this enjoyable trip,and I hope from this article that you can share in the experience of the "Ego Trip".

cartoon-like tramper