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Egmont Alpine Course

First week of August holidays 1964

Several taxis plus George Caddie's venerable Hillman van arrived at Dawson Falls on the Friday night, last day of the second term. Ten men and one women sorted themselves out, and loading themselves up with enough equipment to set up a base camp for Sir Edmund, set off up the seemingly endless flight of steps to Kapuni Lodge.

Saturday dawned cool and cloudy with Hughie threatening. The night before a roster of chores had been pinned up, the meat was buried in the snow and a hundred and one other items were checked, like the generater and the water system. Breakfast was prepared by those to whose names were unfortunate enough to be first on the list, and while the four instructors argued whether or not to return to the sack in view of the dark clouds and mist which were already starting to anvelope the mountain, the rest of us donned parkas and grasped ice-axes cager to be away.

We spent the day in learning the techniques of arresting slides down slopes, should you be unfortunate enough to start sliding down the slopes. This can be an extremely hair raising venture to the uninitiated, but we had been taught the rudiments, at Ruapehu (see Blyth Weekend trips). So we spent our time in perfecting our technique, which included such tricks as going down headfirst on our backs (eeech).

About lunchtime the weather began to close in, so a quick poll of opinion was taken and it was unanimously decided to return to Kapuni, where lunch was eaten. The afternoon turned quite rough, so no more instructing was done - Colin, John and Andy went down to Dawson Falls for some loads of coke and diesel fuel.

The evening was spent in an extremely companionable manner. As honorary chief brewer, Bill had prepared an immense dixie of home brew, which went down extremely well, page break ably assisted by a half-bottle of rum which Andy had brought. Pop entertained the gathering with an exhibition of Russian dancing and then a table-traverse marathon was staged which was a closely contended contest between Alan and Pop. Ata late hour we staggered to bed.

On Sunday we learnt how to arrest a fall when roped up. The best way of doing this is for one man of a two man rope to suddenly hurl himself down the slope when the other is unprepared. We quickly grasped the idea that you must be constantly alert when on a mountain.

That evening Pop, Bill and peter entertained the males (Val had gone to bed) with tales from their youth.

The following day we put on crampons for the first time and plodded up and down and around a neer vertical face, revelling in the joy of not having to cut or kick steps as had been the case hitherto. However people who suddenly put on crampons get sore ankles, as we later discovered. This is because your body remains parellel to the slope. We practised trying to fall down slopes without spiking ourselves, no mean feat.

We climbed Fanthams Peak the next day, fully roped up, with crampons and all. Syme hut was snowed in, but a little spade work soon had the doorway cleared, although there was some snow inside the hut as well. We returned to Kapuni fairly early, for all, but six of the party were returning to Wellington.

The next day we made the ascent to the summit, Andy, Alan, Tom, John and George (Val was incapacitated and stayed at Kapuni). The weather was made to order and we completed the climb with no trouble. The view was unfortunatly semi-obscuredby cloud to the south and east, but north and out to sea was a magnificent panorma. We ran down from the crater to Fanthams, and completely cleared the entrance to Syme and then returned to Kapuni for some delicious scones Val had made. John packed, for he was leading a Ruahines trip starting the next day.

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Thursday saw the four remaining instructers, under George's able guidance, imagining they were at the bottom of a crevasse and finding the best methods of extracting themselves. Then after a bit of glissading, just for fun, we returned to Kapuni and started to clean up the hut, ready for our departure on the morrow.

On Friday we all went home richer and wiser in experience (although by no means skilled mountaineers). A heerty and substantial note of thanks to the four instructers.

A.J.

Old hands: George Caddie, Peter Berry, Bruce Popplewell, Bill Stevensen

Young Fry: Valerie Putt, Alan Radcliffe, Andy Jackson, Dougal Congalton, John Rhodes, Colin Smyth, Tom Clarkson

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It must be stressed that the Tararuas, especially in winter, are no trivial matter. For the sake of comfort as well as safety, people should ensure that they are capable of doing a particular trip before deciding to go on it. Tramping fitness is unique, and can only be evaluated by tramping. It is comforting for the tramper to know that he has emergency food, knife, compass and matches, as well as a reserve of endurance energy.

At all seasons it can snow on the tops, and unless a valley drop off is convenient, warm clothes including longs and gloves should be taken. While primi are convenient, they are frowned on below the bush. The day will come when the primus user needs a fire, but is unable to light it. Finally, it is the leader's responsibility to look after you, so before the trip make sure you are capable; if you are in doubt, ask the leader's advice. Worried leaders are nasty to deal with.