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Annandale Past and Present 1839-1900

Chapter VIII. — Troublous Times

page 100

Chapter VIII.
Troublous Times.

During these early years in Pigeon Bay, notwithstanding the greatest possible forethought and care on the part of our settlers, they suffered many privations in the way of scarcity of food and clothing. Their isolation and the difficulty and danger that a voyage to Wellington (their nearest, indeed only shop at that time) entailed, owing to the small size of the few coasting craft then in existence, the want of lighthouses, the dangerous nature of the rocky coast, etc., combined to reduce them at times to most trying straits. For two years they could not get boots for the children, and even Mrs. Hay was reduced to wearing men's "water-tights"—the only boots to be had at that time in Wellington.

Whaling vessels were frequent, and always welcome visitors then, and many a lack they supplied. Kaikoura was the chief whaling station in the South Island at this time, but the vessels cruised all round the coast, the captains and crews becoming well known to the settlers. Sometimes as many as six or eight were anchored at one time in Pigeon Bay in those palmy days of the whale fisheries. In winter and early spring whales were very page 101numerous round the Peninsula, which was a nursing ground for them. Frequently they were captured and "tried out" in Pigeon Bay: the latter odoriferous process never failed to gather round the scene of operations all the boys in eager interest, where no doubt were learnt many practical lessons that served future good purposes. These vessels carried full supplies of stores and clothing—chiefly men's and the captains were only too glad to barter anything they had to spare for fresh meat, potatoes, etc. Some of them carried a doctor on board, especially the French trading vessels that sometimes found their way up the quiet bay, and not seldom this fact proved a source of comfort and relief.

On one memorable occasion a company of travellers arrived at Annandale from Akaroa, footsore, weary, and hungry, after their long rough tramp over the hills. It so happened the flour supply had come to an end, the last batch of bread being on the table, and it was with mingled feelings Mrs. Hay dispensed the rites of hospitality, not knowing how long they might be without bread for the family. She was unable to conceal her anxieties altogether, while doing everything in her power for the comfort of her guests. The visitors, however, proved their gratitude by a graceful return, so touched were they by the incident. In passing through Port Levy they informed Captain Bailey, of the barque "Runnimede," lying at anchor there, of the circumstance, and he at once sent his whale-boat round to Pigeon Bay and supplied them with flour and sugar, an act of kindness gratefully remembered by the family to this day.

The greatest friendliness at all times prevailed between our settlers and these sea-farers, whose visits were at least a very welcome break in the monotony of life in the page 102solitudes of mountain, vale, and sea, if not of more substantial benefit. The wife of one of these captains once accompanied her husband to New Zealand, and they spent a few days in the shelter of Pigeon Bay. To one so secluded as Mrs. Hay from the society of her own sex, it may be imagined how much the visit was enjoyed, affording to her, as it did, a passing glimpse of the outer world she had left. A natural little instance of childish expectation, determination, and depredation happened when this lady had been spending a day at Annandale, and is associated to this day with her visit. No doubt she, too, remembered the episode long after it was past.

" Little Tom "—then a fair, fat urehin of two years or so, placid, yet purposeful, had been put to bed after tea, nor was his privacy disturbed till Mrs. Hay took her guest into the chamber to don her head-gear, previous to taking leave for the night. The bonnet had been left on the bed where lay the sleeping child, emblem of innocence, and sweet as sleeping infants always are. Disposed among the lace on the bonnet (they were of a sensible size in those days) lay tempting looking clusters of red cherries, which our practical infant, on waking and finding himself master of the situation, at once proceeded to demolish. With laudable perseverance (" the child is father to the man ") he had sampled all the berries, fondly hoping, no doubt, that as he went on the flavour might improve. Thus they found him hugging the ruined bonnet, cheeks, chin, and chubby hands smeared with the waxy mess, looking the picture of injured innocence—a martyr to circumstances! Fortunately his internal economy suffered no hurt, to the relief of his mother and her visitor, whc, a sensible mother herself, was less concerned for the bonnet than for the child! Whether or not the former was ever restored to its pristine glory history sayeth not.

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Captain Bailey, of the whaling vessel "Runnimede," who frequently visited the bay, had many strange adventures to tell. Perhaps the strangest was the manner in which his life was saved once when out harpooning a whale. The whalers did not succeed in getting away fast enough, and the whale, with a cast of its tail, overturned the boat. The men were all drowned, but the captain, who managed to hold on to the upturned boat by putting his right hand middle finger into the plug hole in the planks. After some hours he was picked up in an insensible state by some of his crew, who were searching for the boat. His finger was much swollen and dislocated, and it was with difficulty they got it extricated, having to cut the plank to get it free before they could lift him into the boat. James Hay paid a visit to this old friend at his beautiful home in Hobart, in 1882, when on his way to the Old Country, and found the old man hale and hearty. He had his garden embellished with fine specimens of whales' jawbones, made into bowers and arch-ways, and his old vessel, the "Runni-mede "—most treasured relic of all—was pulled up the river close to his grounds, that he and "she" might grow old together. This fine old man, who survived his wife some years, died about the year 1886.

By way of variety in the early experiences of our pioneers was the bushranging "scare" that arose when the Messrs. Greenwood, of Purau, (three brothers who came to Port Cooper a few years after Messrs. Hay and Sinclair settled on the Peninsula) were stuck up by the celebrated "Blue-cap" and party. It was feared they would attack other settlers afterwards, for they paid a visit to the Messrs. Deans, Riccarton, and also to Annandale, receiving food and shelter at both places. When at Annandale the chief of the gang watched Mrs. Hay so narrowly that she became alarmed, and begged Mr. Hay page 104and his men not to leave the homestead till the strangers had gone. They walked to Akaroa from Annandale, returning round the Peninsula in a whaleboat to Pigeon Bay a few days later. They went up again to the house, ostensibly to get their "billy" boiled, but in reality to spy out the land, for the leader—"Blue-cap" - was heard to remark that there were "too many burly Scotchmen" to encounter at these stations. They returned to their boat and sailed away. Eventually they reached Riccarton, and moved on from there to Purau, where they succeeded in "sticking up" the Messrs. Greenwood. An immediate result of this alarm was that Greenwood Bros sold their station soon afterwards to Messrs. G. and R. Rhodes and left the country.

A graphic description of their exploits at Purau we shall quote from Mrs. Deans' account—with her kind permission—written for the "N.Z. Country Journal," of November, 1882:—"Early in August the settlers at Riccarton were called upon by three men describing themselves as shipwrecked sailors. They were hospitably received and welcomed, as all visitors were. They stayed the night, giving and receiving news. Next morning they praised the comforts of their quarters, and especially admired the size and warmth of the blankets. After gaining all the information they could of people and places, and being supplied with necessaries for the journey, they left for the head of the bay, where they spent another night, and then proceeded to Messrs. Greenwood's station at Purau, where they were engaged as labourers, and worked for a few days. Suddenly one evening, while seated at tea, at a given signal they rose and pinioned their masters, who were at table with them. They searched the house, taking, whatever they thought desirable, and obliged one of the brothers Greenwood and page 105William Prebble (now of Prebbleton) to carry the plunder to the boat on the beach, which they also took possession of to cross the bay on their way to Riccarton to do the same. They dared Messrs. Greenwood and Prebble to leave the spot on pain of death, till they had gone a certain distance across the bay. The latter (Prebble), as soon as he considered it safe, returned to the house and released the other two brother's Greenwood, who had remained bound all the while. They immediately left for Port Levy, where a number of old whalers (most useful people in those days) had settled down, and they at once took boat and came round, and up the river next morning, anticipating the robbers by several hours. A mist had overtaken them on the hills, and instead of coming direct to Riccarton they wandered to the eaves near Sumner, where they heard the splash of the oars of the whaleboat passing. The brothers Deans had armed all hands with what weapons they could provide, and waited the approach of the robbers, who found their way into the bush at dusk. Their camp fires were seen for three nights, but seeing the place so well defended by so many men marching up and down and all around, they never ventured out of their hidings till the coming of a snowstorm made their quarters uncomfortable. They then decamped, and their footsteps were traced in the snow for some distance towards Otago. One was drowned crossing a river on the way, the other two were captured in Otago, and taken to Auckland by Mr. Cass (late Chief Surveyor), where they received their sentence."

Great numbers of wanderers traversed the country in those early days, sailors, whalers, adventurers ot all classes and nationalities, many of whom found their way to Pigeon Bay and Port Levy. It was obviously impossible to estimate the characters of those who ever and anon page 106claimed the hospitality of Annandale and Craigforth; but it was a consolatory reflection that sometimes they "entertained angels unawares," as well as the reverse! About this time Bishop Selwyn paid his first visit to Pigeon Bay, and charmed them all by his culture and courtesy. The Bishop was appointed in 1841, and arrived in Auckland in May, 1842.

A tragedy occurred at the time of which we are writing, in connection with a French whaling vessel, lying at anchor in Port Levy, which caused considerable trouble and sensation in the district. A sailor who had deserted was pursued and captured by the first mate and doctor of the vessel, quite near the home of Mr. Tom White, who then lived in Port Levy. The mate had a double-barrelled gun loaded, Avhich he laid down at the door of the "Hotel"—a small bush "shanty"—while he got something to drink. The deserter at once picked it up, and when the two men came out of the Hotel he pointed his own gun at the mate, threatening to fire if he came nearer. Disregarding the warning, the officer approached to take him, and was immediately shot dead by the sailor. The doctor got assistance and carried the body to the Hotel. Mr. and Mrs. White and the elder members of their family witnessed the murder, and it left a gruesome association in their memories of their Port Levy home. The murderer made his escape to Pigeon Bay, and got into hiding amongst the Maoris. Mr. Watson, Resident Magistrate of Akaroa, on getting news of the murder, came to Pigeon Bay to search for the criminal, and called upon Mr. Hay, Mr. John Hay, and a workman named Toby Green, employed by Mr. Hay, to lend a hand in effecting a capture. They got off in a boat at the head of the bay, near Annandale, and put their loaded gun under the stern sheets for safety. They lanaed at the Pah, and commenced page 107their search, which for some time they thought would be fruitless. Mr. Hay, who knew the Maoris' dread of the Magistrates, told Mr. Watson to handcuff' some of the men, and the women would be sure to tell the criminal's hiding-place. The plan was effectual, one of the women pointed to a whare, where they saw an old sail spread out on the ground. Mr. Hay, despite many protestations, removed it and the fern leaves underneath, and there found the man ensconced in a hole in the ground. Mr. Hay promptly put his knee on the man's chest till the constable got the handcuffs on, then they led him to the boat. They were just putting off' when Toby Green pulled the gun towards him to have it at hand in case of necessity. It went off", and the shot lodged in poor Toby's knee. It would probably have killed Mr. Hay if Toby had not intercepted it, for he was sitting just behind Toby. This unfortunate accident was a serious matter for Toby who was laid up for ten months, during which time he was nursed by Mr. and Mrs. Hay and Mr. John Hay. In spite of the care he got he never quite recovered the use of his limb, having a stiff' knee for the remainder of his life. He (Toby Green) eventually settled on a place of his own at Akaroa, where he had a dairy, and prospered. The deserter, who was the cause of all the trouble, was taken before the Magistrate in Akaroa, and subsequently removed to Wellington for trial, but, owing to some flaw in the indictment, he was acquitted, though his murderous act was seen by several witnesses.

About this time Messrs. John Hay, Tom Cullen, and Alfred Wallace were engaged in building a vessel of 40 tons burden in Pigeon Bay, designed for the transport of their produce to Wellington, as well as to bring from there the yearly supply of stores for the families. They had, indeed, need of a good seaworthy boat, but this vessel, page 108under the hands of the builders, at this date—January, 1844—was a long time in being completed for want of rigging and sails. The sad cause of the delay we shall relate in its sequence; meantime, the builders claim our interest here. They were all three warm friends, and associated with those old days; for the time being they were all inmates of Annandale. All three were fine stalwart young men, full of promise. Some old letters are still preserved by Mr. J. Hay's son, that give a true picture of the life in those days, as well as the character of the writer, Cullen, a fine genial Scotchman. He left New Zealand soon after this date, and went to Tasmania, when Hobart was called Hobart Town, and the natives of that lovely island "Van Demonians," a name that clung to them long after they discarded "Van Diemen's Land" for the shorter and more euphonious' name it now bears. He had many ups and downs in life, for next we hear of him at the Victorian goldfields, where he made money and lost it too. His letters express regret that he had not remained in New Zealand and gone into partnership with Mr. John Hay in the "sheep line." It is interesting to know that Mr. James Hay, solicitor, Timaru (only surviving son of Mr. John Hay, who resides at Barbrafield, near Temuka, his late father's station), called on this old friend of his father's—Mr. Cullen—when in Scotland about 1883-4, 40 years after the time of which we are writing, and found him a grand old man, full of character and humour. He retained vivid recollections of the time when John Hay, Alfred Wallace, and he were mates at the building of the schooner in Pigeon Bay; of the free happy life in those past days; the merry evenings spent round the Annandale fireside, from which the huge backlog sent out rays of light and warmth, when song, joke and yarn sped the cosy hours of rest. In contrast to the hard toil that was their daily lot, the memory of those page 109happy evenings stands out in bright relief. Looking back-through the vista of years (from a present middle-aged point of view), those "olden days" seem truly "golden days," framed as they are in glowing memories of warm friendships mutually enjoyed in all the freedom of the time, before civilization brought its inevitable restrictions and conventionalities.

Mr. John Hay, who for several years remained in Pigeon Bay, and was closely connected with our family by ties of kinship and friendship, will be frequently before us as we tell our story. He was then and all through those busy years living as a brother in the house, helpful, interested, one with them in their varied experiences and projects. We can all recall his well-known figure and kindly beaming face; needless to say, these early associations served to cement between him and each member of our family the strong true bonds of affection and respect.

Mr. Alfred Wallace, the youngest of the trio, was also a general favourite with all who knew him, old or young. Around him many pleasant kindly memories cling, alas! far-off memories only, for he was cut off in the flower of his youth and strength. He it was who was deputed to go to Wellington for the requisite sails and rigging to finish their vessel. His sister and brother, Mrs. Logan and Mr. Geo. Wallace, living in Wellington, no doubt led to the choice falling on him for this commission, which resulted in the sad disaster we shall relate in the next chapter.