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Typo: A Monthly Newspaper and Literary Review, Volume 1

Trade Wrinkles

Trade Wrinkles.

To Erase a Rubber Stamp.—To take from paper the impression in red ink of a rubber stamp, first remove the oily material of the ink with ether or naphtha, then bleach the powder.

To Remove Dust from Polished Surfaces.—To remove dust, without scratching, from the finest polished surfaces, the Moniteur Industrielle says, take (by weight) of cyanide of potassium, 1 part; soap, 1 part; chalk-blanc de Meudon, 2 parts; water sufficient to make a thick paste.

Substitute for Gum.—A correspondent of the Papier Zeitung recommends the following for printers and others as a gum substitute: Take 2lb of good dextrine, pour over it half-a-pint of cold water and stir vigorously for about ten minutes; when the dextrine is thoroughly soaked put it over a fire and keep it continually stirred for about five minutes. The substance will then be of the consistency of milk. This condition is reached when the bubbles begin to rise, and the solution looks as if beginning to boil; boiling, however, must be carefully avoided. Now cool the liquid in a shallow wide vessel and add about l¾oz. of glycerine, and it is ready for use.

Management of Inks.—An American contemporary says:—The management of inks seems little understood by many printers. Printing ink is substantially a paint, triturated to extreme fineness, and laid on the paper by type. There are occasions, of course, when the least amount of color that can be put on is sufficient, but it generally needs more. Especially in one class of work, that of handbills and posters, whether highly ornamented or not, more is required. The first requisite in this case is that they shall catch the eye quickly, which cannot be done by hair-line faces or small quantities of ink. They should be charged with color. That they are not is frequently owing to the ignorance of the pressman. His overlays and underlays are not right. They cover too great a portion of the form, or underlie too much of it, and the whole object of having them is lost. Principal lines should have more impression than weaker ones, and this is generally better accomplished by underlays than overlays, for not only is the impression stronger, but the line will take more ink. The more slowly the impression is made, the blacker the line will appear, as the ink then has time to penetrate. It is a useful thing sometimes to run a piece of work through a second time, thus giving more color. House-painters do not finish a house at once, but lay on one coat after another until the requisite intensity is obtained. Especially should this precaution be followed in pale or weak colors, such as the various yellows. One great reason why this hue is hardly ever used by printers, except through bronzing, is that it always looks pale and ineffective on paper. The remedy for this is additional presswork. The color, in its various modifications with red and black, is very effective, as can be seen by looking at the leaves of trees in autumn, which are compounds of green, brown, red and yellow, the first soon disappearing and brown being the last.

(From the Inland Printer.)

Working Cardboard.—A correspondent writes: In working cardboard on a small drum cylinder, I am troubled by a slur on the last line, caused by the stiffness of the board, which prevents it from conforming readily to the curve of the cylinder, so that as the impression ceases, the sheet flies out flat, making the job look dirty on the edge. I have obviated this by passing cords around the cylinder, fastening one end to the rod which holds the paper bands, and the other to be braced against, which the fly strikes, the sheet moving under the cords while being printed; but is there no better way? Answer.—Take one or more pins, according to the size of the job, cut them off, so as to make them type high, or a fraction over, which place in the furniture, so as to catch the end of the cardboard, and the slurring referred to will be prevented,

(From the American Lithographer and Printer.)

Map-Engravers' Wax.—Half an ounce gum benzoin, half an ounce of white wax, four ounces linseed oil. Boil down one-third.

Silver Ink.—White gum arabic, one part; distilled water, four parts; silicate of soda in solution, one part. Triturate with the best silver bronze powder, enough to give required brilliancy.

Cement for Iron.—Thoroughly mix and wet with sulphuric acid six parts of sulphur, six of white lead, one of borax. This makes a reliable cement for connecting iron.

To Render Fabrics Non-inflammable.—Soak them in a solution of 4 parts borax and 3 parts of epsom salts or sulphate of magnesia, shaken or well-mixed together, and immediately dissolved in from 20 to 30 parts of warm water. Thoroughly soak fabrics, wring out and dry in the open air.