The high canoe chant of the canoe captains rang like war cries along the Wanganui in the misty morning of a July day in 1849, when Donald Maclean and Richard Taylor began this visitation cruise. “A fine grey dusky morning,” Mr. Maclean wrote in his diary, “packed, washed and started up the river at a quarter to eight. The banks on each side presented a grand picture of high cliffs, overhung with vegetation from dark brown to verdant green to the highest trees; and from the highest trees to the smallest shrubs, with overhanging plants on the most desirable exposures for their growth. In the foreground, at some of the bends, the sun pierced through the mist, and reflected on our splashing paddles, as each canoe in front pressed up against the force of the fresh, our own natives eagerly singing their shrill canoe songs, and happy with the prospect of arriving in good time at Hikurangi, a populous pa on the river. A little racing between the canoes enlivened them; and the females distinguished by their mild voices, even in the thick mist, where their bodies were concealed, gave the scene a romantic charm that is peculiar to New Zeland. The simplicity of the natives, and their kind attention and courteous treatment of travellers makes such journeys as this most agreeable.”

The Rev. Richard Taylor and his friend, the Government Agent and Land Purchase Commissioner, Donald Maclean, frequently joined forces in Wanganui River expeditions. On this occasion they were bound to a far-up tribe in a remote and wild country seldom visited. Maclean's Ms. notes tell the story: Some pigeon and other game were killed by the chief Kawana's son, who was in Kingi Hori's canoe, where the Union Jack was erected, and the greenstone mere, the emblem of chieftainship, was conspicuously placed in the chief's belt; that the pakehas might see that while he respected the Queen's emblem of sovereignty (the flag) by having it in his canoe, he did not neglect those of his own nation.

The first night was spent at the pretty kainga of Hikurangi. There more Maoris joined them for a great church assembly or hui which was to greet the missionary away up the Manganui-a-te-Ao, which Mr. Maclean wished to see.

“Leaving in the morning, we were much amused by the chattering set up by the ladies who were not accompanying their husbands to the hui. They collected on the bank below their pa, just above our canoe. Some of the men were apparently indifferent to what passed among the fair sex; but they were not insensible of the treasures they were leaving behind them, however much they might appear to neglect them when in their presence. Ladies, however agreeable their company in other parts of the world, are not permitted to join us in our canoe. The women, determined as usual, to have the ascendancy, had taken a canoe of their own, poled and paddled by themselves, a few old grey-headed men, and a tribe of young boys, who are always ready for any extraordinary service or exploit that may chance to cast up. A party of these young chiefs are squatted on the house-tops to watch our movements, as we sweep up against the stream.

“A few miles brought us to Pukehika, the termination of Hori Kingi's boundary on this river. Next we called at the beautiful pa situated on the opposite side, called Pa-te-Arero. This

(Rly. Publicity photo.) Fern-trees Cliff on the Upper Wanganui.

is delightfully situated within a lovely karaka grove, and is one of the chief pas of the rebel chiefs up this river. A fine clay-walled church of large dimensions is being erected; which indicated a disposition for peace on the part of this tribe. If New Zealand had a few more zealous Missionaries like Mr. Taylor, we should have fewer wars. But this most populous district seems to have been wholly abandoned to one labourer; whereas it would require four to render their services efficient. One of these should be situated among the scattered tribes of Tuhua and the Manganui-a-te-Ao; where the natives are becoming unsettled.