The New Zealand Railways Magazine, Volume 3, Issue 7 (November 1, 1928)
Planting the Bulbs
Planting the Bulbs.
The safest method is to plant the bulbs according to their size, and to cover them with from one to one and a half times their own depth of soil—that is three to four inches below the surface. If in doubt plant on the deep side. This ensures a more even temperature. Allow three to four inches between each bulb and plant so that the natural increase will run up and down the rows. This increase can be detected by a swelling on the side of the bulb.
Surface hoeing can be carried out till the end of March, after which hand weed if necessary. The top soil must be kept free.
There is no safe method of retarding a bloom which may be too early for a certain date; but such blooms may be preserved for two or three weeks by covering them with scrim. Buds which are backward can be helped considerably by a mild application of nitrate of soda—½oz. to a gallon of water—applied four weeks before show day (assuming the bulbs are being grown for show purposes), and again two weeks later. A liberal use of lime in the making of the bed enables you to use the nitrate of soda.
On no account pull the blooms to obtain longer stems for the show bench. This method is injurious to the bulb and also opens up an easy entrance for the two worst enemies of the Narcissus—eel worm and bulb mite. Flowers should be cut or picked at ground level.
Trumpet daffodils grow much larger when left on the plant. This also applies to the Leedsii and Incomparabilis selfs and bi-colours without red cups. Some of the red cup Incomparabilis should be left growing to develop the colour. Red cups generally, more especially the Barrii and Poeticus, should be cut as soon as the flower begins to open. The cut blooms should be kept in a cool airy room and given fresh water daily. They will thus increase in size and retain their beautiful colour.
Should the weather be dry at any time in the growing season, water the beds twice a week with pure water. Lack of substance in the page 37 blooms is caused by an insufficiency of moisture in the soil. The Narcissi like moisture, but not stagnant moisture.
After the flowering season is over do not on any account remove the foliage. Plants will keep on growing for another ten or twelve weeks. In this period the bulb and the flower are being prepared for the following year. The time to clean up the bed is when the leaves have separated themselves naturally from the bulb.
Once a bed is planted it may remain down for three years. (Better blooms are produced in the second and third years). After the third year it will be necessary to lift the bulbs, work that is best done about mid-December. As each variety is lifted place the bulbs in a sieve and thoroughly wash them under the high pressure hose, and remove the decayed scales and roots. Place the bulbs in a cool dry place until the next planting time.
When again planting the bulbs it is better to prepare a new bed than to use the old one. If space will not permit, renew the soil of the old bed as before stated.
Narcissi respond to good cultivation and not to over-feeding.
By following out the method of cultivation briefly outlined in the foregoing article the reader will be agreeably surprised by the results achieved. Instead of mediocre blooms he will have blooms of rare beauty and charm. I cannot do better than close these notes with the lines of the poet Wordsworth: —
“For oft when on my couch I lie
In vacant or in pensive mood,
They flash upon that inward eye
Which is the bliss of solitude;
And then my heart with pleasure fills,
And dances with the daffodils.”