Opotiki and Its Associations.

Immediately upon leaving Whakatane the road turns inland. A prominent landmark is the cone-shaped extinct volcano, Mt. Edgecumbe, which dominates the landscape. Nine miles along a good road and we run into Taneatua. This is the present terminus of the Bay of Plenty railway.

Continuing on from Taneatua the road traverses the Waimana Gorge. Before reaching Opotiki, a glimpse of the sea is seen at Kutarere, on the shores of Ohiwa harbour. Further on a pretty stretch of road opens up, which is close to, and parallel with, the sea beach. On the seaward side an avenue of pohutakawa trees adds beauty to the scene—a scene which would be considerably enhanced when the trees are covered with the bright crimson flowers which have caused the pohutakawa to be called the New Zealand Christmas tree. The Waioeka River, on the outskirts of Opotiki, is crossed by a massive ferro-concrete bridge. A few minutes later we draw up at our hotel and are conducted to comfortable quarters to rid ourselves of the dust of travel.

Just across the street is one of the most historical buildings in all New Zealand. I refer to the Anglican Church of St. Stephen the Martyr. The Church is indelibly associated with the name of the Rev. C. S. Volkner, a missionary who laboured amongst the local Maoris for a number of years. In 1860 he helped to build the church with timber pitsawn in the adjacent bush. During the Hauhau rebellion of 1865 Opotiki was visited by Hauhau emissaries who, with a well-armed following, completely overawed the local natives. The Rev. Volkner was taken prisoner and locked up for several days. He was then escorted to the church grounds and hanged on a willow tree. Frightful orgies on the part of the Hauhaus followed, the idea being to alienate the sympathies of the Christian converts. Native friends gathered the remains of this first pakeha martyr and reverently interred them just outside the church. Some years after a memorial transept, enclosing the hallowed grave of its first minister, was added to the church. The church was re-consecrated and given the above mentioned name.

Considering its somewhat isolated position, Opotiki impresses the visitor as being very progressive. Many of its buildings would do credit to a much larger town. The sea beach is about 40 minutes' walk from the town.