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The New Zealand Railways Magazine, Volume 2, Issue 10 (February 1, 1928)

New Zealand's Southern Lakes. — The Holidaymakers' Paradise

page 32

New Zealand's Southern Lakes.
The Holidaymakers' Paradise
.

Quite early in the history of New Zealand, the Southern Lakes district of Central Otago became famous. At first, owing to the very rugged nature of the country, it remained in comparative obscurity. Then came the discovery of gold. This gave the necessary impetus to exploration, practically all the rivers in the lake country being found to be rich in alluvial gold. Under the magic stimulus, roads were built over the mountain passes in an incredibly short time; engineering difficulties were overcome and the gorges bridged with suspension bridges hundreds of feet above the water. Over these bridges came thousands of miners with their machinery and the district settled down to steady gold production. The gorges resounded to the clang of the gold dredges and the rumble of sluicing. Towns sprang up and then disappeared again almost in a night.

To-day it is not gold, but golden sunshine, and snow-clad peaks mirrored on lake surfaces of azure blue, that attract travellers from all over the world to our wonderland of the South. The gold is gone forever, but the beauty will remain, for, unlike many mining districts, the landscape in these parts has not been disfigured by the activities of the gold seekers of long ago. Only the river beds were turned topsy-turvy in the wild hunt.

The Central Otago climate is one of the most bracing in New Zealand, with a very light rainfall—a decided advantage from the holiday point of view. All kinds of stone fruit, but particularly cherries and strawberries, flourish in season, and are cheap. Some misconception may exist in regard to transport. When people are told that the Lake District lies about 170 miles inland from Dunedin they almost invariably think it must be a very outlandish region, and that transport must be unusually difficult and expensive. However, this is not so, for the railway services extend a cheap and comfortable means of transport right to Queenstown, the centre of the Southern Lake land.

The “All-railway route” from Dunedin passes through Milton and Clinton until Gore is reached. Gore is the junction for the Waimea Plains branch. If a visit be contemplated to the most southern lakes (Te Anau and Manapouri) Lumsden is the stopping place. A forty mile drive is all that is required to reach Manapouri, the lake of a hundred isles; Te Anau is a few miles further on. Continuing on from Lumsden, the rail terminus is at Kingston, 160 miles from Dunedin, on the southern arm of the famous Lake Wakatipu.

At Kingston the train runs right alongside the steamer and this simplifies the business of changing. The steamer then sets off on a two hour run to Queenstown, its home port.

A glimpse of the famous Routeburn Valley, Lake Wakatipu district.

A glimpse of the famous Routeburn Valley, Lake Wakatipu district.

Many railway systems in different parts of the world run steamers in conjunction with their rail services to fill in essential gaps. The New Zealand Railways are no exception, for the Department runs three steamers on Lake Wakatipu. The same ideals of service and punctuality always associated with railways characterise the personnel of their steamer services. The steamers themselves floating on the deep blue waters of the lake, with their glistening white hulls and page 33 yellow funnels, present an almost yacht-like appearance. The “Earnslaw,” the largest of the lake steamers, is a fast modern vessel with twin screws and triple expansion engines which are capable of driving the vessel (with 800 passengers and general cargo) the 25 miles from Kingston to Queenstown in two hours. Meals rivalling those of the refreshment rooms ashore are served in the saloon on board—meals which (because of the bracing mountain air)—are eaten with a good appetite.

Apart from being the natural centre of the beautiful lake country, Queenstown is almost unique in that it provides facilities for almost every kind of sport and entertainment. The Tourist Department maintains an extensive domain, in the middle of which are the Botanical Gardens, Croquet and Bowling Greens, also Tennis Courts with a pavilion and tea koisk.

Those who visit the domain without equipment for the various sports can hire anything required at a reasonable cost. Wind does not interfere with the play as there is an outer wall of tall Norfolk pines which give adequate protection.

The Skippers Road, Queenstown.

The Skippers Road, Queenstown.

Red deer stalking is to be had on the wooded slopes around the lake. Trout are plentiful, of good quality and size, both in Lake Wakatipu itself and the many smaller lakes and streams round about. Many beautiful spots, ideal for camping, are situated round the lake shore with an ample supply of pure water available in the lake itself—so pure is the water that tins thrown in do not rust for years and can be seen at a depth of over thirty feet. (An interesting fact to railwaymen is that the water of Lake Wakatipu is used in the boilers of the steamers instead of condensed water.)

The supremacy of Queenstown, however, lies in its suitability as a starting point to the many beauty spots round about. There is the twenty mile drive round precipices hundreds of feet high to the old mines at Skippers and to the Kawarau Dam. During the summer months, the “Earnslaw” runs moonlight excursions which are very popular. An orchestra on board provides music and the decks are cleared for dancing. Nothing could be more beautiful than the lake by moonlight, winding between the peaks. Excursions are also run by the lake steamers to bays around the lake, and to the head of the lake. From here (Glenorchy) a twelve mile drive passing through birch forests and across the mouth of the Routeburn Valley, brings one to Paradise, with the white cap of Mt. Earnslaw in the background. Within easy distance of Queenstown are many interesting walks up the neighbouring hills or to the strawberry gardens where the sum of 1/- is charged for admission. (Once inside these gardens one's shilling can be most profitably invested!) The ascent of Ben Lomond attracts those who can tackle something more strenuous. Holiday makers form parties (often forty strong) which set out at midnight to scale the 5,780 feet to the summit of Ben Lomond to watch the sun rise over the top of the Remarkables. Thus the heat of the day is escaped and the early morning usually ensures a clear view right up to Mt. Cook.

A 48-mile motor trip to the little township of Pembroke, Lake Wanaka, reveals fresh possibilities. The road leads up a zig-zag to the top of the Crown Range Pass, 4,000 feet high, from which a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains and the Kawarau Gorge is page 34 obtained. From the summit the road winds through the Cardrona Valley where thousands of miners once toiled; to-day the only remaining evidences of old-time labour are the heaps of stones piled up in the river bed and the wreck of an old gold dredge. Launches ply from Pembroke to the various points around Wanaka.

Instead of retuning by the same route an alternative route is via the Otago Central Branch, the rail treminus of which is Cromwell—a flourishing inland town situated about 40 miles by car from Pembroke and from Queenstown. The road from Queenstown follows the famous Kawarau Gorge almost all the way to Cromwell, thus providing a round trip always passing through new country of very varying scenery. The Otago Central branch passes through 40 miles of orchards. Central Otago should indeed be called “the orchard of New Zealand.”

The Department is to be congratulated on its enterprise in the running of cheap week-end and one-day excursions from most points of Southland to Queenstown. The one-day excursions from Invercargill are a popular innovation. No advertisement compares with a satisfied customer; and a few hours spent around Wakatipu are sufficient to instil an enthusiasm which is infectious enough to draw others to this splendid holiday resort—the playground of the south.

Good For The Railways.

Under the above heading the “Look-out Man” of the Auckland “Sun” writes thus from his watch-tower:—

Time was when the Railways Department did not bother to advertise itself, or go out of the way to court patrons. But all is changed since it decided to be out for business. Now it studies the comfort and convenience of travellers in a dozen directions that had not occurred to it in the days of the past. The courtesy of the railway man was always notable, his willingness to help passengers in any difficulty was a constant theme for thanks. Those personal relations with the public could hardly be improved on. There were other things, however, that were sadly needed. The business-like management of recent years has seen to these, and as regards comfort in travelling, the service has almost been transformed. Nor does the Department forget its patrons. This year it has issued a charming little calendar bearing the motto: “The People's Railways for the People's Safety. The People's Railways for the People's Goods.” These are being distributed by stationmasters to regular patrons. It is a thoughtful gesture—and it is good business. Good for the railways!

The Earnslaw (the largest of the N.Z. Railways' fleet of lake steamers) leaving Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu, with Invercargill excursionists aboard.

The Earnslaw (the largest of the N.Z. Railways' fleet of lake steamers) leaving Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu, with Invercargill excursionists aboard.

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Typical Scene in the heart of Southern Lakeland.

Typical Scene in the heart of Southern Lakeland.