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The Cyclopedia of New Zealand [Auckland Provincial District]

Clothiers, Dyers, Hatters, Etc

Clothiers, Dyers, Hatters, Etc.

Belchamber and Co., Wholesale and Retail Waterproof Manufacturers, Victoria Street West, Auckland. The founders of this firm learned their business at the famous Indiarubber, Guttapercha, and Telegraph Works, London. After acquiring at this place a thorough knowledge of the many and varied branches of the trade, their services were in great demand, not only in England, but in foreign countries, and the businesses of many firms which they started are now in a flourishing condition. Subsequently, they were at S. C. Cording's establishment at Charing Cross and Regent Street, London, but in 1889, M. Lane, one of the firm, was persuaded to come to Auckland, and was the first maker of a waterproof garment in the colony of New Zealand. Since that time the industry has increased, and many articles in the waterproof and indiarubber lines, hitherto unobtainable in the colony are imported and can now be procured from this firm. The firm not only supplies the retail trade, but tailors, storekeepers, and others find it to their advantage to deal with the manufacturers. In its production the firm endeavours to supply all classes of the population. For the general public it makes ladies' and children's waterproof clothing, gentlemen's leggings, rugs, carriage rugs, etc.; while tourists, sportsmen, and travellers are catered for with hunting suits and aprons, fishing trousers and stockings, sheeting for camping out, and specially made garments for riding and driving. The firm also keeps requisites for invalids, such as bed sheeting, hot water bags and bottles, and air and water cushions and beds. Football bladders, waterproof aprons, trousers for Baptist ministers, gas bags, gas tubing and hase, bathing caps, etc., are also produced by the firm.

Brown, D. And A., Dyers, Shortland Street, Auckland. Works, Grafton Road. Established in 1866. This business, which now ranks as one of the leading dye works in the colony, was founded by the late Mr. Alexander Brown, father of the present proprietor. Mr. Brown, senior, was a dyer of sixty years' standing, and at his death Mr. A. D. Brown took over the management. Mr. A. D. Brown has had thirty years' experience, and the works cannot be excelled in the Auckland provincial district. The works are most picturesquely and conveniently situated in the “Glen” dividing Symonds Street and Grafton Road, and are well drained and abundantly supplied with water. They cover an area of about a quarter of an acre, and comprise eight sheds; and the largest and most-up-to-date plant is used. The firm is erecting a French dry-cleaning plant, which enables garments of all kinds to be cleaned without shrinking. It also imports all its dyes and dyeing material from Europe, and it can, therefore, produce all the latest and most fashionable shades.

Mr. A. D. Brown.

Mr. A. D. Brown.

Cambridge Shirt And Clothing Factory (G. H. Powley, proprietor). Victoria Street West and Graham Street, Auckland. Telephone 1021. This business, which was first established about 1867 in Shortland Street, by Mr. Van Breda, was purchased by Mr. Powley in October, 1880. In 1892 the lease of the property in Shortland Street fell through, as it was a portion of the Costley estate, and the ground was purchased throughout by the Auckland Club. Mr Powley was, therefore, obliged to look for other quarters. He purchased land in Victoria Street West, and erected his present premises, which consist of two large buildings. Messrs Macky, Logan, Steen and Co. supply all the material for making up, and then dispose of the manufactured goods. The factory proper has a frontage of 100 feet to Graham Street, and a depth of 102 feet, and the other building has a frontage of 40 feet to Victoria Street, and a depth of 40 feet. The second building is two stories in height, and the upper portion is used by Mr. Powley for dwelling purposes. On the ground floor there are offices, and a lofty, well-ventilated, excellently-lighted cutting-room for shirts and Denim trousers. In addition to the ordinary shears, or tailor-cutting appliances, this room is provided with a double band knife, driven by engine power, for heavy cutting. It is of Irish make, and is capable of cutting sixty thicknesses (or thirty garments) at once. The power for this and the factory machines is supplied by two gas engines, respectively a four and two-horse power (nominal). Just over the entrance to Mr Powley's private office there is a clock,
Cambridge Factory: Machining and Finishing Department.

Cambridge Factory: Machining and Finishing Department.

page 351
Cambridge Factory: Cutting Department.

Cambridge Factory: Cutting Department.

which is electrically connected with the factory, so that when lunch hour is over a bell rings the hands back to work. The factory itself consists of a huge room lighted by three domes, 21 feet from the floor. Each dome is fitted with twelve windows and two “Boyle's” ventilators, and the room also receives additional light from eighteen windows around the sides. It is provided throughout with gas for use during the dark afternoons in the winter season. In the storeroom a heavy stock of trimmings and other requisites is always kept on hand. The factory is divided into the shirt and Denim trouser-making department, and the general cutting and tailoring department. One hundred sewing machines (Singers) are in constant use, forty-two on shirt-making, and the balance on clothing. These machines are all driven by engine power, and can be independently disconnected instantly at the will of the operator. The shafting is carefully boxed in, so that there is not the slightest danger of an accident happening to any of the operatives through their clothes being caught in any way. There are also machines for riveting buttons of various kinds, and for the copper-riveting used in completing the Denim trousers. There are also button-hole machines for shirts, the process being first to sew the button-hole, which is automatically cut between the sewn lines when finished. One of the most convenient improvements is the gas-heated iron for pressing shirts. This iron works on an arm, is heated by gas, and an extra pressure can be obtainea by placing the foot upon a treadle connecting with a lever. In the shirt department all sorts of shirts, from the commonest variety to the finest silk, are manufactured. After being finished and pressed, they are labelled, folded, and packed for delivery. The tailoring department has a capacity of turning out over 300 suits weekly. The cutting is all done by men, from patterns, forty thicknesses being usually cut at a time, although as many as sixty-two have been done, and Mr. Powley is in negotiation with an American firm for a cutting machine which will save still more time and labour. After being cut the cloth goes to the tacking department, where it is tacked by hand before passing to the machines. The finishing is also done by hand. The button-holes in the suits are made by machinery, with this difference from the shirt department—that the holes are first automatically cut and then sewn. After being finished, the suits are hand-pressed, ticketed, buttoned, and folded, when they are ready for delivery. At each end of the tailoring department there are two large stoves for heating the pressing irons, heavy irons being provided for the men, and lighter ones for the female operatives. Below the factory room there is a well-ventilated, well-lighted luncheon room, provided with tables, benches, etc. Here those of the girls who do not go home can spend their dinner hour, and hot water is provided for those who want to make tea or coffee. There are four lavatories connected with the factory and luncheon room. Regular employment is given to about 150 operatives, and the wages account runs to nearly £5000 per annum, the amount having trebled in three years.

Mr. G. H. Powley was born in Tasmania, and came as a child with his parents to New Zealand in the barque “Fanny Fisher,” from Hobart. Mr. Powley, senior, had been an English Army officer under the Government in Tasmania, and when he took his discharge he received a pension and a grant of land in New Zealand. Mr. G. H. Powley was educated at St. Matthew's Church, and after leaving school joined the Navy as a boy on H.M.S. “Niger.” He was invalided out of the service at the Chatham Hospital in 1866; and shortly afterwards he married, and returned to New Zealand in 1867. After an experience on the Thames goldfields, and in various mercantile pursuits, he started his present business in 1880. Mr. Powley joined the volunteers in 1867, and became second lieutenant of the Artillery, of which he is still a life member. He is referred to in another article as a distinguished Freemason.

Cooper, James Albert, Cap and Hat Manufacturer, Queen Street, Auckland. Mr. Cooper was born in Auckland in 1850, and educated at Cariton Academy under Mr C. B. Andrews, He was apprenticed to the well-known firm of Hill, Fenton, and Hulbert, hat manufacturers, and after completing his indentures worked as a journeyman in Melbourne and Sydney, Mr. Cooper returned to Auckland in 1882. He commenced business the same year, and now owns one of the leading establishments in Auckland. Mr. Cooper also takes an active interest in athletics generally, but more particularly in cycling and bowling. In 1802 he was initiated as a Freemason in Lodge Ponsonby, No. 51, N.Z.C., and since then he has filled the offices of J.G., J.W., S.W., and W.M., and he is now secretary of his Lodge.

Davey And Orpwood, Ladies' Underclothing Manufacturers, High Street, Auckland. Though no attempt is made at outward show, a really good business is being done by Messrs Davey and Orpwood, who have surmounted all the initial difficulties of founding a business in opposition to cheap English labour. Thirty hands are employed, and upwards of twenty-five sewing machines are kept constantly going. The machines favoured are the Wheeler, Wilson and Singer. In cases in which it is deemed to be advantageous, raw materials are imported direct from the Home markets. Only strictly wholesale houses are supplied, so, of course, the number of customers is limited, and confined to cities and large towns in the Colony. The business has been established for about twenty years.

Fowlds, George, Clothier and Importer, Victoria Arcade, Queen Street, Auckland. Telephone 336. Cable address, “Fowlds.” Bankers, National Bank of New Zealand. London agents, B. S. Lloyd and Co., 40 King Street, Cheapside, London, E.C. Mr. Fowlds was born in 1860 in Ayrshire, Scotland, and was apprenticed to Messrs Stewart Bros., tailors, of Kilmarnock, and completed his term in 1878. For several years subsequently he was with the wholesale firm of Messrs William McLaren, Sons and Co., of Glasgow. In 1882, he left Scotland for South Africa, where he remained for three years, during which time he was with Messrs Wood and Co., and E. W. Tarry and Co., Limited, wholesale importers, at Kimberley, the famous diamond mining centre. Owing to his wife's health he decided to come to New Zealand in 1885, and arrived in the s.s. “Coptic.” The prevent extensive business was established in 1886, scott after his arrival. He began in a small way in Victoria Street, and in consequence of his having a thorough grasp of the business he speedily made a trade, and the page 352 premises became too small for the business. In 1888 he secured the present premises in a handsome block of buildings, five stories in height. The portion occupied by Mr. Fowlds consists of a handsome shop at the corner of Fort and Queen Streets, and two other shops ironting Queen Street, and running right through into Victoria Arcade. He also occupies the basement beneath, and three large workrooms upstairs, the total floor space being equal to 9000 square feet. From twenty-five to thirty hands find regular employment behind the counter or in the workrooms, and about £200 per month is paid away in wages. A convenient dining room is provided for the comfort of the work-people. A large general stock of the goods usually kept by a first-class tailor and outfitter is always available, and supplies are obtained largely by importations from such firms as Rylands and Sons, of London, Stewart and McDonald, and William McLaren, Sons and Co., of Glasgow. The goods are sold chiefly locally and throughout the Auckland provincial district. Mr. Fowlds has retained the services of a first-class cutter, and employs only skilled labour in the workrooms, and thus he ensures excellence in the style, fit, and finish of all his workmanship. Mr. Fowlds believes in being abreast of the times in all matters connected with the trade. His London buyers have had large experience in business, and are in a position to procure the latest designs at the earliest moment, and this enables Mr. Fowlds to offer considerable advantage to his numerous customers. As a Freemason Mr. Fowlds has been Grand Superintendent of the Auckland Province for several years, and is a Past Deputy Grand Master of the Grand Lodge of New Zealand. Mr. Fowlds is referred to esewhere as one of Auckland's three representatives in Parliament.

Kemp, Benjamin John Major, Merchant Tailor, Outfitter, and Shirt Maker, 123 and 125 Queen Street, Auckland. This business was established in Mannkau Road, Parnell, in 1885, by the present proprietor, who, in October, 1900, removed to his present premises in Queen Street, where, with an already valuable connection, he carries on a rapidly-increasing trade. The various lines of goods and stock are shown to first-rate advantage, and, as a gentleman's complete outfitting establishment, Mr. Kemp's ranks among the best in Auckland.

Morran, John Manners, J.P., Clothing and Mackintosh Manufacturer, Lorne Street, Auckland. Mr. Morran was born in 1857, at Woolwich, Kent, England. At the age of fourteen he embarked in the ship “Eclipse,” and visited Portugal, Madeira, Cuba, and many places in the West Indies and America. On his return he was placed with the firm of Cook, Son and Co., clothing manufacturers, at Chatham, and afterwards with Messrs B. Cohen and Co., waterproof manufacturers, of Fore Street, London, for whom his brother was manager. He thus became familiar with the best class of mackintosh manufacture, as, indirectly, the firm made for Mossrs J. C. Cording and Co, of Picadilly, who have all the rulers of Europe on their books. Mr. Morran heid the position of cutter for Mr. Thomas Knight, Messrs H. E. and M. Moses, Messrs Ryland and Sons, and Messrs Thomas and Jones, all of London. About eleven years ago the emigrated to New Zealand to embark in the business of waterproof manufacture. He landed at New Plymouth, but finding no scope there, he commenced in Elliot Street, Auckland, at first only employing ten hands. In about a year the rooms became too small for Mr. Morran's extending business, and the extension was partly due to the Government imposing extra duty on imported goods. Two other removals were found necessary on account of expansion in business, and finally he took his present premises, opposite those of Sharland and Co., in Lorne Street, where he now employs nearly 200 hands, and has the largest mackintosh trade in the Colony. Mr. Morran had a magnificent show of clothing and mackintosh garments at the Auckland Exhibition, and was awarded five special gold and four silver medals and one bronze medal. He is a very considerate employer, and has the reputation of paying the best wages in his line in Auckland, as he holds the opinion that cheap labour is dear in the end. Mr. Morran's present factory is of three floors, 80 feet by 40 feet, and is fitted with all the most improved machinery.

Hanna photo. Mr. J. M. Morran.

Hanna photo. Mr. J. M. Morran.

Seabrook, H. H. , Shirt Manufacturer, Grafton Road Auckland. This business, which was established in 1886 in Newton Road, has been conducted since 1898 by its present proprietor, who, both in this and in other lands, has gained an experience in manufacturing which has contributed in no small degree to the marked success of his present business. Shortly after taking over the business, Mr Seabrook required additional spance to cope with his already increasing trade, and in the early part of 1900 he succeeded in purchasing the admirable site on which his commodious factory now stands, and where he carries on the business of the old familiar “Stitchwell Club.” When it was first stated that a shirt factory was to be erected in Grafton Road the news was received by the neighbouring residents with unconcealed expressions of indignation and disappointment, on the ground that the locality would be prejudiced by the advent of a factory. Such feelings were, however, soon dispelled when the handsome wooden building which now covers the site was completed, and now in the list of fine buildings which adorn the neighbourhood Mr. H. H. Sea-brook's Shirt Factory admittedly takes a prominent part. The building occupies 40 feet of frontage to Grafton Road, by 106 feet in depth, and is elevated some feet from the ground by a brick foundation. The premises contain six large rooms, including two commodious working departments; one of these is on the ground floor, while the other, in which all the cutting and machining are done, occupies the greater part of the second storey. These departments are fitted up, arranged and conducted in a manner which characterises the whole establishment. For the use of the employees, who now number about eighty, a large room has been set aside, and is provided with a handsome piano and other necessary furniture, so that the spare time of the workers may be made a source of general enjoyment. The proprietor intends to add the manufacture of clothing to his already extensive business. Mr. Seabrook, the enterprising proprietor of this business, was born in Auckland in 1859, and educated at a public school, which he left at the age of sixteen, to enter the drapery trade. At first he was employed by Mr. W. Wilson, and then by Mr. Harry Atkin, both well-known drapers of that time. In 1880 Mr Seabrook left Auckland for Australia, where, in some of the largest warehouses of Melbourne, Sydney, and
Hanna, photo.Mr. H. H. Seabrook.

Hanna, photo.Mr. H. H. Seabrook.

page 353 Ipswich, he gained a wide experience in the trade he had chosen. He returned to Auckland in 1884, and travelled through the colony, but finally took up employment in Auckland with the firm of Messrs Sargood, Son and Ewen, by whom he was appointed manager of their mercery department. This position he held till 1898, when he started on his own account by purchasing the business formerly owned by Mr. A. E. Hatton, and familiarly known as the “Stitchwell Club.” Mr. Seabrook has always interested himself in the general welfare of the public, and for some time has been Grand Master of the Protestant Alliance Friendly Society of Australasia. Being an accomplished musician he has also taken great interest in musical matters, and for some years has been a member of the Auckland Liedertafel.
Mr. H. H. Seabrook's Factory.

Mr. H. H. Seabrook's Factory.