Tutamahurangi

A small promontory fort on the rugged coast line about three miles south of Titahi Bay is a fair example of the rough precipitous places occupied by the Maori in former times, places that essentially lent themselves to defence, and whereat but few artificial defences would be seen. This point is known as Tutamahurangi to the Maori, and is marked as Tomahawk Point on some maps. It is not a spur trending downwards from the ridge, but juts out directly from near the base of a very steep slope some hundreds of feet high. It extends out as a razor back ridge, its crest nearly level, for some distance, then widens out at the end for about 50 yds., then throws out a very narrow razor back spur that falls steeply to the beach about 200 ft. below. The wider part of this little promontory has been utilised as a pa. A trench has been excavated across the narrow ridge at the only place, apparently, where the rock was not near the surface. All other artificial defences must have consisted of stockades. The outer part of the point, the part occupied, lies somewhat higher than the inner part between the trench and the steep range. The northern side of the point is a steep cliff, almost inaccessible; the outer part of the south side is similar, but the inner part falls less steeply to a curious form of hanging gully that does not extend down to the beach on the south side, but runs out on the head of a steep bluff above the beach. The gully is much rounded and slopes upward to page 343the base of the promontory across which it forms a hollow at the base of the range face. The rounded bottom of the gulch was probably occupied; waterworn stones used for domestic purposes are there seen. Its upper part is now occupied by a grove of ngaio, kohe and karaka trees. The lower parts of the gully are 40 to 50 ft. below the level of the pa.

The trench cut across the point is about 9 yds. long, its southern end opening out on to a small artificial terrace 11 yds. long and 4 ft. to 6 ft. wide. The trench shows much abrasion and is partially blocked with debris. It was originally perhaps 8 ft. deep and 6 ft. wide at the bottom; rock would stop further excavation. Part of the western scarp has apparently been built up with stones.

Crossing the trench we find that the top of the ridge, the part formerly occupied is 15 yds. wide. At 15 yds. further on it is 20 yds. wide and from this it gradually narrows to a point, hence the area is a small one. This part shows a very stiff and hard clay overlying rock, and the surface has been levelled by excavation into 10 or 11 small linchets at different levels. These were the hut sites and while some would accommodate but one hut, others would hold several. One would suppose that the place would be pretty well filled with one hundred persons in it. A number of waterworn stones are seen on the pa, such as were used for domestic purposes. The kitchen shell refuse seem to point to the fact that Haliotis iris formed no inconsiderable portion of the food supply. The point of this promontory is a wild mass of rocks difficult to pass round and where the almost vertical strata have been worn into grotesque and curious forms by the action of the sea which ceaselessly assails them.

The southern side of the pa was doubtless defended by a stockade, as also the trench scarp and any other accessible place.

Tutamahurangi was a very small place and is a specimen of what may be termed an inferior or insignificant type of pa, the remains of artificial defences now visible being no more than one short trench.

Te Pa-o-Kapo, at Titahi Bay, was also an old stronghold of a similar character. The narrow neck at the base of this small headland was deeply excavated, and on the scarp crest inside this fosse was a stockade, of which several post butts were in position when the writer first visited the place in 1863. In the 'nineties' one of those butts remained, the timber being totara. This promontory was an extremely exposed place of residence; probably some form of wind screen was erected on the seaward side.

In Roux's Journal of the voyage of the Mascarin is given some account of the pa attacked by the French at the Bay of Islands. This journal is published in vol. II. of McNab's Historical Records of page 344New Zealand. The account of the fort is as follows: "It is situated on the extremity of a peninsula which projects into the sea, and is unapproachable on three sides by reason of the precipices which surrounded it. For its better defence it has three rows of palisades. There is also a raised platform all round, which is made of long pieces of wood stuck up on their ends with planks on the top, supported by small poles, strengthened by crossbeams. The natives mount this platform by means of ladders, and on this can fight with much in their favour against an enemy armed in the same way as themselves. To the left there was a little path or track, where one man could pass along at a time by holding on to the palisades with one hand, so as not to fall into the moat. This track was so contrived as to lead to the gateway, which would be about two feet square, and which was the only means by which the village could be entered. This gateway was at the far end of the village; there was no other means of entrance, as the other three sides were washed by the sea. … As they saw our intentions was to make ourselves masters of their village, and to pass along the path or track of which I have spoken, they made use of a trick which hampered us greatly: they threw water all along this path, so as to prevent us using it. The ground, which was already very muddy, favoured their design. … Upon entering the track, we saw several natives, who ascended the raised platform of which I have spoken, but three or four of them who had got up having been shot the others were deterred from seeking to replace their comrades. The 300 paces which, roughly computed, we had to go to reach the gateway were soon traversed despite the spears that were hurled at us. What impeded us most was the water they had thrown on the track.… Having found ourselves in front of the gateway, and there being only the palisades to separate us from the enemy, we commenced a very sharp fire."

Having the advantage of firearms the French were enabled to force the passage of the entrance and enter the fort. Six chiefs were shot as they defended the entrance; after their fall the people lost heart and evacuated the fort. This would be owing to the fact that their mode of defence had become useless. Those who ascended the fighting stages were shot, those who manned the stockades, armed with thrusting spears, would meet a similar fate. A large number was slain as they attempted to escape. The narrator notes that they had defended the entrance to the village for about forty minutes, and with great coolness, for no one could be heard speaking except the chiefs, who gave their orders, and who were always to be seen in the most dangerous places. But immediately the chiefs had been killed the natives displayed as much fear as they had previously exhibited page 345courage so long as the chiefs were at their head, and they now took to flight. He also notes how the natives tried to protect themselves from the bullets by wearing thick closely woven capes, such as were used in spear fighting.

Another remark by this writer is of interest, as showing that a considerable space must have existed between the stockades and the rows of houses. The village was burned by the French:—"The rows of palisades, which were well away from the houses, escaped the fire … the fighting platform also escaped the fire."

In the Journal of Du Clesmeur, a member of Marion du Fresne's expedition, published in the same volume as the above, appear a few notes on native forts:—"Everything goes to show that these people are warlike. The position of their villages is always carefully chosen. When building their villages they select steep hills, or easily accessible islands. It is quite astonishing to what point of perfection they have arrived in their entrenchments and fortifications. I have seen villages whose approach was defended by moats of 20 ft. in width by 10 ft. in depth, and in which were double and triple palisades, and, in between, a species of raised platform from which spears could be thrown with great effect."