Oneone-nui Pa

This old fort is situated on a forest covered ridge near Muriwai Beach, about a mile north of the former accommodation house, and about five miles from the Wai-mauku station on the Auckland-page 263Kaipara railway. This part of the west coast of the northern peninsula has been a favoured place of residence of the natives, and many interesting middens, village sites and old forts are here to be seen. About Muriwai, however, the beach sand has been drifting inland in late times, though obviously this cannot have been the case to any great extent in pre-European days. Enormous deposits of wind blown sand cover the more level land and have, in some places, reached the hill tops where, with a front 50 ft. to 60 ft. high in one place, it slowly rolls forwards burying the forest as it advances. It has also buried many tokens of old time Maori occupation, such as those on the wooded ridge south of the Muriwai stream, and is filling the Okaihau lake. The drift has left the Oneone-iti hillock near the beach partially uncovered and has ascended the ridge north of the Muriwai stream half way to its summit. Here it steadily advances, swallowing the forest as it does so, and, unless checked, it will probably cover the interesting earthworks of Oneone-nui pa.

Signs of former occupation are seen on the hills above the beach at Motu-tara, about two miles south of the Muriwai stream, and between the two places are some fine middens, now surrounded by a waste of sand. These middens offer no mean field for exploration, and some interesting relics of old Maori life have here been found.

The Oneone-nui pa is situated on the western extremity of a long ridge that approaches the coast at right angles, throwing off a flank spur on the southern side that falls to the Muriwai creek. The upper part of this flank spur, as also much of the crest of the main ridge east of the A defence, formed residential areas in former times, though not fortified by earthworks. These places may, however, have been protected by stockades.

No detail plan was made of works on the southern flank spur inasmuch as this area forms no part of the fortified village or pa proper. These outside areas were residential suburbs, the people of which would retire to the fort in the case of a serious attack. This flank spur accommodated a considerable number of people whose huts were built on terraces along the slopes and across the crest of the spur. There are also a number of store pits of the semi-subterranean type (ma tahuhu). No fosses or parapets are seen on this spur, both slopes of which are easy of ascent. Advancing up the crest of the spur one finds the lowermost terrace thereon to be 14 yds. across, above which are two more, 6 yds. and 7 yds. wide. Above these are four store pits excavated across the spur, the smallest thereof being 10 ft. by 4 ft. in size, and the largest 17 ft. by 6 ft. They contain much debris, the whole spur, as also the main ridge, being covered with a dense growth of forest consisting of page 264Metrosideros, rewarewa, mapau, mahoe, kohe, karaka, kawakawa, nikau, Cordyline and wharangi, some of the last mentioned being of unusual height. Some of the Metrosideros are of large size, though apparently all have grown since the place was abandoned. The rate of growth of the pohutukawa is unknown to the writer, but with regard to the other trees none were seen on the areas formerly occupied by natives that could not attain their present size in a period of 80 years.

Proceeding further we encounter two more terraces, one of which is continued along the side of the spur. There are also several longitudinal terraces on the outer slope of the spur. We also encounter rectangular store pits excavated in soft sandstone. One of these is 18 ft. by 8 ft. in size, another 18 ft. by 10 ft. and now 4 ft. deep, but containing much debris. At one corner of this pit a Metrosideros (pohutukawa) has taken root on the brink and grown half in the pit and half outside, sending a root 18 to 24 inches in diameter along the upper part of the inside of the pit. This tree has grown in three parts or divisions, collectively about 6 ft. in diameter. It has died, fallen, and is half decayed. Some of these pits are well preserved, the sandstone walls being vertical.

We have now reached the level part of the spur crest, which is on the level of the main ridge, and here we find a huge store pit 28 ft. long, 19 ft. wide and 10 ft. deep, excavated in soft sandstone. The walls are vertical and the pit contains 2 ft. to 3 ft. of debris, some of which was removed, so that the original depth of the pit was ascertained. When in use these pits were roofed over with a A shaped roof which, in many cases, was covered with earth.

On the vertical walls of this pit are seen rude carvings in the soft sandstone formation. These represent grotesque human figures, one wearing a heitiki pendant. Another representing a heitiki is also seen. The work is obviously Maori and has apparently been the work of idle moments, possibly long since the place was abandoned. The pit is an unusually deep one and would contain a great quantity of sweet potatoes, for the preservation of which they were used. It lies N.E. and S.W. At the former end a pohutukawa tree has taken root at the edge of the pit, as in the other pit above mentioned. It has sent roots down into the pit in order to support itself, which roots have grown into a solid mass eight feet across on the face of the pit wall. The tree has practically no trunk, its many branches or divisions separating at, or a little above, the ground line, where the diameter is about 7 ft.

Near the above pit is an excavated and carefully levelled area 20 yds. by 16 yds. in size. Semi-subterranean rectangular store pits page 265 page 266are fairly numerous on this area, but the rua kopiha or wholly subterranean type is here lacking, to be found further on when we enter the fortified area. Where the spur joins the main ridge is a flat area of considerable extent that was probably occupied.

In order to review the whole of the occupied area we must now commence explorations on the main ridge, east of the fortified area. About 150 yds. east of A in Fig. 70, p. 265, is the outermost sign of occupation to the eastward, and on this widened part of the ridge top we find a trench 14 yds. long and 4 ft. deep, with an inner scarp up to 8 ft. in height, that was carried half way across the ridge top. It is not connected with the true pa. Whether this defence was continued by a stockade, or was simply unfinished, it is difficult to say. The ridge top here is nearly level and shows some store pits. Proceeding westward along the ridge for 65 yds. we note that the width has narrowed to 7 yds. We then descend 30 yds. to a narrow saddle, seeing no signs of occupation, after which we rise to a level area, the junction of spur and ridge. Continuing along the main ridge towards A for 58 yds. we find its width reduced to 9 yds., and here we encounter the outermost defence of the true pa of Oneone-nui. A fosse has been excavated at A across the ridge top 28 ft. long and 6 ft. wide at the bottom, counter scarp up to 6 ft., inner 8 ft. high, but now much abraded. The increased height of the inner scarp is produced by a parapet formed on the western brow of the fosse. The northern slope of the ridge has a steep fall of 12 ft. to 20 ft. below which is an easier slope. The south side shows a gradual slope. The dotted lines show the lines of stockades as they probably existed.

In Fig. 70A above appear two illustrations showing store pits excavated within defensive trenches. These were supplied by Mr. L. G. Kelly of Auckland, who states that these sketches were made at page 267the Korekore pa, which is by some termed the Muriwai pa, but is known to us as the Oneone-nui pa. He refers to the designs found carved on the walls of old rectangular store pits at that place, illustrations of which appear in Mr. Firth's paper on the Korekore pa published in vol. 34 of the Journal of the Polynesian Society, pp. 1 to 18.

The first 20 yds. of B area contain five semi-subterranean store pits of rectangular form after which the ridge narrows to a razor back with a very steep cliff on its northern side. C denotes a small terrace on the southern slope, on which are two store pits. A little further on is the most interesting feature of the pa, a huge fosse 60 ft. wide that has been carried right through the ridge. The greater part of the excavation has been in soft sandstone, and the work must have been excessively tedious with primitive tools of wood and stone. The walls of the fosse are vertical, and, as the sectional view shows, the fosse shows two floor levels. The eastern scarp of this huge trench is 14 ft. high at its highest part, and 10 ft. at its northern end. At the base of this vertical wall commences a levelled area (marked D on plan) that extends 38 ft. to the westward and is 40 ft. wide at its east end, but less at its western end. Its northern side has been steeply scarped 16 ft. to 18 ft. down, indeed it was probably vertical originally. At the western extremity of this D area yawns the deeper part of the great excavation in the form of a fosse 28 ft. long S. and N., 17ft. wide at the bottom and 11 ft, deep (marked E). The western scarp of this fosse is over 20 ft. in height and almost vertical, its summit being the original razor backed ridge. Both the northern and southern sides of the ridge have apparently been steeply escarped, though now showing much abrasion. At the southern end of the deep fosse E a path seems to have led up to F area. It is not clear why this excavation of D and E should have been made so unusually large, as there is no fosse defence of corresponding dimensions elsewhere to enclose a given area. Both A and H denote defences of normal dimensions, though F area was possessed of somewhat stronger defences than B area. Area I, of vastly superior size, and where the great bulk of the people must have resided, though possessing strong flank defences in natural cliffs, had only stockade defences at its western extremity, where the ridge descends towards the sea coast. Areas B and F were evidently meant to be the strongest and central areas, inasmuch as the parapets at fosses A and H are on the inner sides of such excavations. As the ridge brows east of D and west of E are at about the same level, it is possible that D area was excavated in order that an enemy entering B area should possess no point of vantage from which to page 268operate against F area. Naturally any defences on the level of the defended area were made stronger than those on a brow or slope. An attacking force advancing along the level ridge summit to A would be on the same level as the defenders, but if attacking from north, south or west at any part it would be compelled to advance up a steep slope or precipitous scarp and be at great disadvantage. Any place along the flanks that was scalable would certainly be blocked by a stockade.

As observed, the summit of the western scarp of E fosse is the razor backed ridge which, however, soon widens out to a residential area (see F on plan). Here hut sites and pit stores (rua kopihd) are seen, the latter excavated in the soft sandstone. The northern side shows a perpendicular cliff 20 ft. and upwards in height, and there is a steep 12 ft. to 15 ft. drop on the south side, above which scarp is the small terrace G. Area F is but 39 yds. in length. Its western extremity is marked by the defences at H. Here we find a fosse 30 ft. long, its eastern scarp surmounted by a parapet now but 2 ft. to 4 ft. high. The fosse is 7 ft. to 10 ft. wide at the bottom, but contains much debris, eastern scarp up to 12 ft. in height, but most of it much less the northern end of the fosse being much filled up. The western scarp, possessing no parapet, is lower.

At the southern end of this fosse, where it widens out and the scarps are 8 ft. to 12 ft. high, are some interesting store pits excavated under the scarps, the entrances thereto being holes at the base of the scarp. These are situated on both sides of the fosse. These store pits are oblate or dome shaped, like those of the Tara-naki coast, and have been excavated in the soft sandstone that underlies the soil all along this ridge. One of these pits is ovoid in form, being 9½ ft. long and 6 ft. wide. Across the middle is a low wall of the original sandstone 8 in. high. The dome shaped roof is 5 ft. above this partition. The entrance hole at the base of the scarp is at the side of these pits. The above pit is connected with another one close to it through a 10 in. wall. The connecting hole in this wall is but 10 in. wide; the second pit is circular in form and is connected with a third one. Why two pits are connected by a hole too small for a person to pass through is not clear, unless it was used in connection with the sorting of the tubers when being stored, for these pits were used as storage places for the kumara. In another place two pits are connected by a hole of larger size through which a person might pass. See Fig. 70a, p. 266.

These pits much resemble those seen at the Ihupuku pa at Wai-totara, the Okoki pa at Urenui and other places on the Taranaki coast. Similar pits were also seen by Mr. Hamilton at a pa on the page 269Napier-Taupo road and, in this latter case, some of the pits contained coffins, having been used as burial places in late years. The pits of Oneone-nui, just described, may be called rua poka, or cave stores.

Area I has been a fine residential area commanding a grand view of the ocean, though now covered with tall forest trees. It is in places upwards of 60 yds. wide. The first 44 yds. is level and here it is 55 yds. wide, having a cliff 30 ft. to 50 ft. high on its northern side, and to the south a very steep scarp of 15 ft. to 20 ft.

Towards the northern edge of this area are two storage pits of a very unusual type, in fact the only ones of the form ever seen by the writer. They are storage places showing a combination of the rua tahuhu and rua kopiha forms of pits, that is to say of the subterranean and semi-subterranean types. One of these shows a rectangular open pit 20 ft. long, 14 ft. wide and 3 ft. deep, but deeper originally. Within this pit a rua kopiha, well like pit, has been excavated at each of the four corners, also another in the middle of one side of the pit. See diagram on plan p. 265. These subterranean pits must thus have been entered from the interior of the semi-subterranean rectangular store house which was covered with a A roof. This is a novel arrangement of store pits within a store pit; it may possibly have been instituted for the saving of space in a congested area. It reminds us of the store pits within cooking sheds seen by Dr. Marshall on the Taranaki coast. Four feet from this pit is the edge of another that is 15 ft. long and 7 ft. wide, in three corners of which are similar subterranean storage pits.

Proceeding along this fine I area we note that the ground rises gently for 62 yds. and find many levelled hut sites, also store pits and terraces on the southern slope. Here is a Metrosideros 6 ft. in diameter, and a Cordyline australis 33 in. in diameter at 3 ft. above the ground line. The former was probably here when the pa was occupied. Another 36 yds. finds us on a fine level area 45 yds. wide, with a gentle slope to the southern break of the ridge and the precipitous cliff on the north side. From that cliff head one looks northward over miles of ruined lands, covered with drear ever-moving sand dunes freed for drift by the stock and fires of an intrusive race.

Both forms of store pits are seen in this area. At one place on the gentle southern slope are twelve of the well like subterranean pits in a row. One rectangular semi-subterranean pit is 28 ft. long and 11 ft. wide, on the edges of which, and growing half in it, are two fine trees (Metrosideros) 3 ft. and 4 ft. in diameter.

page 270

Advancing another 65 yds. along the ridge, we find that the summit area has narrowed to 35 yds., cliff on north side, gradual slope for some distance to the south. At 50 yds. further the flat top narrows to about 10 yds., then becomes a rounded ridge and descends to the S.W. by S. Sixteen yards down is a little terrace on the narrow spur 35 yds. long by 12 yds. wide, while on the N.W. slope is a terrace 20 ft. wide some 6 ft. lower. At the south end of the upper terrace (J) is a scarp of 3 ft. with a small parapet thereon. Then comes another small terrace 12 yds. long. This is the last sign of occupation at the western end of the ridge, and the spur now drops steeply down to the sand dunes far below. Thus we see that the defences at this end must have consisted of stockades, as opposed to the heavy earthwork defences of the eastern part of the fort.

The fortifying of Oneone-nui was much facilitated by the precipitous flanking cliffs. The south side of the ridge was probably stockaded along the brow of the low bluffs but a good deal of the high cliff on the north side was unscalable.

Some of the flank scarps are probably artificial, but abrasion, the collection of debris, and vegetation render this uncertain. To look at this forest-covered ridge from a distance no observer could imagine that it had ever been occupied by man. But when traversing the densely forested area one comes upon the terraces, fosses, scarps and pits of the Maori folk in the shady depths of the woods, remains of the folk of former centuries who have passed away and left no signs but these. Here the descendants of the old ocean wanderers lived and died, fought and toiled, all ignorant of the great world and of other races than their own.

On the low land near the coast, about 60 chains from Oneone-nui is a small hill known as Oneone-iti that shows signs of former native occupation, and on the right bank of the Muriwai stream at the southern base of Oneone-nui ridge is the midden of another old Maori settlement.

In writing of the Great Barrier Island Colonel Boscawen remarks:—"At Whakaparapara there is a very old pa and the ditch is very deep and well cut, with very old pohutukawa trees growing on the side. Another thing is the palisading made of white manuka appears to have grown in places."