V.—The Peninsula.

One of the pleasantest drives in the neighbourhood of Dunedin is that down the Peninsula. Let us suppose we are off in a tip-top turn out from one of the best livery stables in Dunedin, spanking horses, a splendid drag, exhilarating atmosphere, roads first-class, spirits up to the highest pitch that health, choice company, glorious scenery, and a determination to be happy, could raise them to, for anyone would be a moody individual indeed, who refused to be satisfiedin such circumstances. As we leave town and pass by Anderson's Bay Road, along the harbour side, the foreshore, if the tide be out, will indicate what a considerable portion of the site of Dunedin at one time was—a mud flat. This unattractive waste is a part of the Harbour Board endowment, and in a few years hence it will be all reclaimed, let at big rents, and occupied by abusy population.

Immediately beneath on the left the placid waters of the harbour lie sleeping in drowsiness, sinuously wending their course along through and among sandbanks and rocky isles, bluff headlands and receding bays, until absorbed in the great Pacific they cease to be recognised. Away to the right the majestic ocean spreads, its limitless bosom wide open to the gaze, so that far as the eye can reach any object on its surface can be descried.

Lot's wife was turned into a pillar, of salt because she looked behind her at the city which she had left, but no such risk is incurred by looking back from the peninsula hills on the fair city of Dunedin. And perhaps from this point of view she is seen in her widest extent if not in her best display. Looked at from almost any point, however, the remark of inhabitants of Old Edinburgh regarding their fair city, that "she's a bonny toon," holds good.

The city itself with all its surroundings can hardly be surpassed anywhere for exceeding beauty. Whilst halting to look behind, the attention will be attracted by the coast-line to the south, which can on a clear day be discerned as far as the Nuggets, south of the Clutha, on which one of those beacon lights has been erected to guide the mariner along the frowning coastline.

And now in front of us the northern seaboard as far as Oamaru can with a good field glass be traced. A curiously indented coastline it is. Bounding Purehurehu and Hayward's Points, the furthest out stretch of the land on the north entrance to the harbour, lies Kaikai, or Murdering Beach, of which a ghastly story, as the name indicates, could be told. The coast here is hidden from our point of view by Mihiwaka and other heights. The land recedes from old ocean's embrace, again to project at Kaiweka, or in our less euphonious language, Potato Point, again to enfold the old sea-king in her bosom as far as Otokoroa and Parintaha, jostling him out again round the shore of Purakanui Bay and at Mapotahi, fantastically exhibiting itself at the erstwhile dreaded cliffs, around which the North line of railway sweeps along, allowing of a passing glimpse of page 266the restless billows and foam in which Neptune delights to revel—immediately afterwards giving way so that the shallow basin-named Blueskin Bay, receives the waters of the Orokonui, Waitati, and Whatiripuka Creeks. "We pass in rapid succession Te Awakoa, Te Akaipaoa (Green Point), and Te Pahawea (Yellow Bluff), until Waikouaiti Harbour is reached, which, if justice had been done in the estimation of the residents, would be the best harbour in the Province. To dilate on all the points of interest which jut out before us from the point of vantage which we occupy would, take too much space; suffice it then that we briefly enumerate the headlands, receding bays, outlying reefs, and other notabilia which the eye and through the glass can be descried, looming away to the north. Passing Tumai and Pleasant River, Bobby's Head is easily distinguished. Nearest beyond is Shag Point, and then comes Moeraki with its associate point and sands and reefs, on which the wash can easily be seen. Otopopo, noted for its Waianakarua River, troublesome in early days, a short distance ahead Aorere Point, indicating under its lea a good boat harbour, and then the Kakanui, where works were erected to supply one half the world with preserved meats, till Cape Wanbrow with its light tells that the limits of our vision and of the Province terminates in Oamaru, our fair northern town.

Whilst the pen could long be occupied in faintly describing the many attractions of the distant scene, the visitor's attention is naturally attracted by places and objects nearer at hand. Well, be it known that we are now at High Cliff, about half-way on the road to Portobello, and that this name High Cliff has been bestowed because on the right hand side, down towards the ocean, a barrier to the roll of the waters of the modest height of 800 feet stands guard against further encroachment. A perpendicular wall eight hundred feet high is not to be met with every day, but it is not visible from the road, so in our next journey a little further information will be given concerning it.

Immediately in front stands the "camp" home of our genial friend and representative of the district, the Hon. W. J. M. Larnach, C.M.G., who has done more for the district than any other hundred men in it. To visitors this commanding seat has always been open, and so far as the laird himself is concerned page 267he neither regrets nor begrudges Ms hospitality. The camp, or as some folk persist in calling it, Larnach's Castle, against the owner's wish, is a little off the main road, but the well-used line to it would at once indicate the position even although no "Scotch neebours were near, frae whom you could speer."

Down past the first dairy factory started in the Province our steeds gallantly carry us along, just giving time for a peep to the right and to the left of picturesque scenes such as are rarely to be met with. There is the hill called Harbour Cove, or Sugar Loaf, standing sentry, with old Captain Leslie still steady on the look out, and inviting the digger to set in and exhume the precious treasures it possesses, and for the accomplishment of which considerablelabour and money have already been profitlessly laid out. But enough of that, we are not gold but pleasure seekers, and arriving at Portobello, if the hampers with their contents of good cheer have been omitted, there is the hotel, where Mrs. Coneys will isupply food and drink for man and beast at the most reasonable of costs.

And now sufficiently refreshed we strike across the narrow neck in the centre of the Peninsula and at an easy distance reach Hooper's Inlet, or it may be Papanui, according as the driver or driven may select, and going at an easy pace reach the Cape Saunders Lighthouse, where the intelligent and obliging keepers will describe the whole surroundings, not garnished with the fables old Pilot Driver was wont to relate. A few hours well spent on this detour, the ride is continued from the last starting point down from the Maori Kaik to Taiaroa Head. Let us, however, pause a moment or two on the nether side of the Kaik.

Returning to Portobello, and again resting our horses and refreshing ourselves, we return by the road up the harbour side, to Dunedin. Here the sinuosities of land and sea, while protracting the journey, add immensely to the interest, as features of the landscape are revealed from unexpected points, which otherwise would be withheld. The artistic eye can best appreciate these unfoldings of beauty which a slight bend or turn displays, as we move along in contemplative silence. Each object has its own peculiar attraction. Primitive nature, as regards its forest clothing, has been destroyed, but in the contour of the land it is permanent. Different minds will form diverse opinions, but the original can never be restored.

Leaving Portobello Bay and crossing the narrow neck of land which still remains, joining Ridley's Peninsula to the mainland, and which, in some former day, was connected with the Quarantine Island and Port Chalmers Peninsula, so that the page 269ancient traveller, if such a one existed, could walk dry-footed from one spot to another, we now swoop merrily along the level road up to Dunoon, thence round Broad Bay and Grassy Point, until reaching Macandrew's Bay, the vista of Dunedin becomes fairly opened up, developing at every sweep some new beauty to admire. A few choice residences only have been built on this the best side of the harbour. Of these, the names of Colinswood, the home where Otago's foremost man (Macandrew) resided; Glenfalloch, the mansion of G. G. Russell, Esq., a citizen worthy of the highest honours; and pressing onward, as our nearly forty mile journey is somewhat exhaustive, we pass Anderson's Bay with its many villas, where law-makers, administrators, merchants, and professionals enjoy solace and retirement, if not seclusion, after the busy toil of the day, preparing for the morrow; and in good time for dinner we reach our hotel in the city.