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Samoan Material Culture

Figure 162.—Fine mat, lower border, five-weft braid finish (left) and turned back fringe finish (right):

Figure 162.—Fine mat, lower border, five-weft braid finish (left) and turned back fringe finish (right):

Figure 162.—Fine mat, lower border, five-weft braid finish (left) and turned back fringe finish (right):

in the five-weft braid, the method of forming three-element dextrals (fig. 161) is followed. The third element, however, crosses over two and under two crossing sinistrals before it is turned down on a working sinistral upon which it in turn crosses over two and under two crossing dextrals before it again reaches the lower edge. From the lower edge it is again turned upwards as in the three-weft braid finish. The other method occurred in the same mat as the five-weft braid and followed on the right as shown in the figure. When the sinistral (1) was placed in the shed, another double weft (2) was placed above it with its short end (2') turned inwards. The lower end (2") was turned at the edge and took its place in the plaiting edge as the orthodox dextral. Before the plaiting movement closed down over the sinistral part (2'), the end above the third raised working dextral was lifted to prevent it from being included in the plaiting and so left free as a fringe element. The working edge on the right shows the working sinistral (8) in the shed with the fresh double strip (9) placed above it. The raised working dextrals have closed down over the shed, but the upper end (9') of the fresh strip has been raised above the third raised dextral (5) and so remains as a fringe with those to the left. No fringe elements are added to the dextrals but the fringe ends on the garment fall down to mingle with those from the lower edge. The sinistrals near the edge contain four elements and the dextrals two.