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Samoan Material Culture

Figure 141.—The fangai'o kilt, three-ply braid technique:

Figure 141.—The fangai'o kilt, three-ply braid technique:

Figure 141.—The fangai'o kilt, three-ply braid technique:

a, a thin strip of fangai'o bast about 0.25 inch wide has one end (1) laid over the middle ply of the braid and is crossed by the next ply. The long end of the strip is now on the upper side. When the next ply from the upper side is brought to the middle, the strip makes a loop (2) and joins it. Both are crossed by the next ply. The next loop (3) is made on the lower side and comes in with the middle ply from that side. In this manner, loops are formed alternately on either side of the braid. In the loop (5), the strip (6) is seen joining the middle ply (7), which will be crossed by the ply (8). The loops are added along the length of the braid at the same time that the hanging strips are being worked into the braid. The bases of the loop may be put closer together by making the second crossing of the loop on the ply which crosses the first part as in loop (4). b, The hanging strips with loop ornamentation are shown being added to the braid, but the loops on the braid are left out of the figure to allow the technique to be clearly seen. The ends of the hanging strips are added from the same side to the middle plies from that side in exactly the same manner as in the ti leaf kilt. Thus the strip (4) joins the middle ply (2) as it comes in from the lower side. It will be crossed by the ply (1) and the end becomes an element in the ply which it joined. This technique is followed throughout. The hanging strips are added from 1.5 to 1.75 inches apart. In the kilt described there are 31 hanging strips. After the last one is added, the braiding is continued for a few inches and knotted with an overhand knot, the ends of the plies being left free.