Figure 137.—Cordyline leaf kilt, four-ply braid, double layer:

a, the back-ply (4) has just crossed from the left side so the ti leaf (5) is added to it which forms the first layer element with the butt end sloping towards the plaiter; b, an element of the second layer (6) is now crossed over the first and the butt slopes away from the plaiter; c, the back-ply on the right (2) is now crossed to the middle and in doing so crosses over the ply (4) and the butt end of the first layer leaf (5); d, the back-ply on the left (1) is in turn crossed to the middle, crosses the two plies (3 arid 2) and also the butt of second layer leaf (6); e, the technique is now established and after every twist made by the back ply on the left to the middle a fresh leaf is added to it in the same oblique direction and immediately after crossed with a second at right angles. When the back ply from the right comes into the middle position, it brings with it the butt end of the leaves of the first layer as (5) with the ply (4). The butt ends of the first layer are thus incorporated with the plies upon which they are placed. The butt ends of the second layer as they cross in the opposite direction are left projecting beyond the right edge of the braid (7). Each leaf of the second layer is also crossed by two plies from the left. [Thus in (d) the leaf (6) has been crossed by the ply (1) and in the next movement from the left it will also be crossed by the ply (3).] The first layer is shown by (8) and the second layer by (7). The plaiting proceeds in this manner until the length required is reached. The free braid is continued for a little distance and knotted. f, The butt ends of the second layer (7) are dealt with by twisting each tuft around the base of the one in front of it. In the figure the twisting commences at the bottom, passes to the left or strip side of the tuft in front, and is turned to the right or free edge of the braid. The next tuft as it follows suit, fastens down the free end of the previous tuft. The last or top tuft (9) is crossed over the previous one and fixed by pushing it between the strands of the braid. Figure f is shown in that position to enable it to be compared with (e), but in actual technique it would be turned upside down to enable the twisting to be done towards the worker. The twisting adds decorative effect to the waist band.