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Ethnology of Manihiki and Rakahanga

Figure 47. Kilt and fringe technique. a, strip of tou bast (3) about 3 inches long, dyed red, doubled under two cords (1, 2) composed of strips of young coconut leaflets boiled and bleached white; doubling of strip of bast in middle forms far limb (4) and near limb (5). b, both bast limbs (4, 5) brought over two cords (1, 2) and passed down between them. c, strips of bast added successively to right and kept close together so that cords (1, 2) hidden by turns of the bast; in type kilt, fringe i…

Figure 47. Kilt and fringe technique. a, strip of tou bast (3) about 3 inches long, dyed red, doubled under two cords (1, 2) composed of strips of young coconut leaflets boiled and bleached white; doubling of strip of bast in middle forms far limb (4) and near limb (5). b, both bast limbs (4, 5) brought over two cords (1, 2) and passed down between them. c, strips of bast added successively to right and kept close together so that cords (1, 2) hidden by turns of the bast; in type kilt, fringe is 86 inches long. d, strips of papa lauhala (6) attached to inner side of lower edge of plaited band (7); strips range in width from 2.5 inches to 3 inches and are 28 inches long; strips doubled to half their length and the two ends sewn together with cotton thread to plaited band; two-ply twisted cords of white coconut leaflet used for decorative effect; four cords (8) bunched together are run along just above edge of plaited band on outer side; bast fringe (3) placed in position with its supporting cords (1) laid against edge of band (7) and just below decorative cords (8); cords and fringe attached to plaited band by single continuous thread of white coconut leaflet; stitch (9) passed through plaiting and around cords (8) from below upwards on outer side; after passing through plaiting above decorative cords, thread descends obliquely to right on back, passes under fringe cord (1) and makes stitch (10) over it to fix it to band; stitch around decorative cords (9) made and again thread passes to right on back to appear under fringe cord; in this way, by stitches 0.3 inch apart, both cords and fringe attached along all four edges of plaited band.

Figure 47. Kilt and fringe technique. a, strip of tou bast (3) about 3 inches long, dyed red, doubled under two cords (1, 2) composed of strips of young coconut leaflets boiled and bleached white; doubling of strip of bast in middle forms far limb (4) and near limb (5). b, both bast limbs (4, 5) brought over two cords (1, 2) and passed down between them. c, strips of bast added successively to right and kept close together so that cords (1, 2) hidden by turns of the bast; in type kilt, fringe is 86 inches long. d, strips of papa lauhala (6) attached to inner side of lower edge of plaited band (7); strips range in width from 2.5 inches to 3 inches and are 28 inches long; strips doubled to half their length and the two ends sewn together with cotton thread to plaited band; two-ply twisted cords of white coconut leaflet used for decorative effect; four cords (8) bunched together are run along just above edge of plaited band on outer side; bast fringe (3) placed in position with its supporting cords (1) laid against edge of band (7) and just below decorative cords (8); cords and fringe attached to plaited band by single continuous thread of white coconut leaflet; stitch (9) passed through plaiting and around cords (8) from below upwards on outer side; after passing through plaiting above decorative cords, thread descends obliquely to right on back, passes under fringe cord (1) and makes stitch (10) over it to fix it to band; stitch around decorative cords (9) made and again thread passes to right on back to appear under fringe cord; in this way, by stitches 0.3 inch apart, both cords and fringe attached along all four edges of plaited band.