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Reprint Published By
Capper Press
Christchurch, New Zealand
1976
Printed offset by the Caxton Press, Christchurch
When I began to compile the following collection of Peninsula narratives, I never for a moment thought that they would assume such dimensions as to warrant their being published in book form, and I merely wished to collect some information that might be interesting to the readers of the "Akaroa Mail," and also be of use to some future historian of New Zealand.
Banks Peninsula is one of the few places in this Island that has a history, and many of the original settlers are passing away, so that it was desirable to procure their records without loss of time
It has been a most pleasing task, and the universal kindness and sympathy shown to me by all to whom I have gone for aid has been deeply felt by me.
The Rev. J W. Stack's Maori History is a most important part of the book, and no other European could possibly have collected so full and accurate an account It was from papers in the possession of Mr. J. Aylmer and Mr. A I McGregor that the story of Hempleman and his claims and diary was written. The description of the French Settlement was principally furnished by Mr. Waeckerle, one of the original settlers; and Mr. S C Farr wrote the voyage of the Monarch. To Mrs. Brown I was indebted for much of the narrative of the Early Days, and Billy Simpson's tale was told by himself. Mr. G. J Black gave most of the information regarding Robinson and Walker, but "Chips" was the narrator of his own autobiography. Mr. J. D. Garwood assisted in many of the articles, and wrote the Loss of the Crest; and the Rev. R. R. Bradley, Mr. F. Moore, Mr. T. Adams, Mr. W. Masefield, and others, gave the
It will thus be seen that my task has been comparatively an easy one, aided as I have been by so many kind friends, and I can truly say, in conclusion—"Here is only a nosegay of cut flowers, and nothing is my own but the string that binds them"
I am indebted to Mr. and Mrs. Tikao, Wiremu, Karaurko, Hakopa te ata o Tu, Te Aika, and many other well informed Natives, for the materials to compose this history of the Maori occupation of Banks Peninsula; and having written down the narrative from their verbal statements, I have often followed the Maori rather than the English idiom in my translation, which, however distasteful it may prove to the reader, will afford satisfactory evidence in future of the source from which my information was derived.
It is now nearly ten years ago since I published the first edition of the "Stosies of Banks Peninsula," They were so well received that in a few weeks all had gone; and from that time to this I have been collecting fresh matter with a view to the publication of the second enlarged edition that is now before you. There is a sort of mournful congratulation in looking over the preface of 1883 —congratulation in having secured the information before those who gave it had passed away—sorrow that so many who were then in strength and health had since ceased to live. Mr. Justin Aylmer, Mr. Garwood, Mr. Moore, the Rev. R. R, Bradley, Billy Simpson, and a host of others who aided me in my first pleasant task have since joined the majority, and had I waited a year or two longer it would have been impossible to procure the records which are now before you for the second time. Greatly enlarged as the edition is, I have not had room for all the matter at my eommand, and live in the hope of yet publishing a third and larger issue in the years to come. Need I record my thanks to the public for their kind reception of my former effort, and my hope that a similar fate may be accorded to the second.
The second edition of the Stories of Banks Peninsula has been out of print for some years, and, owing to my father's death, the duty of editing the third edition has fallen to my lot. My qualifications in the way of knowledge of early history were not all they might have been but I have endeavoured throughout to avoid having any pet theories and working them into the context as is done by so many modern collaborators. It is gratifying to note that after the new theories advanced a few years ago with regard td both Maori and European history, the story as collected by anon Stack and Mr H. C. Jacobson in 1883 has been substantiated, except for a few minor errors in dates. Many of those who wish to show how false the old accounts are forget that they are undertaking, after a lapse of fifty years' time, to know more about the various incidents than those who were actually participants. In the preface to the second edition my father speaks of publishing a third and larger issue, and he had collected a large amount of material in readiness. It is unfortunate that all his manuscripts were burnt I have collected a great deal of extra matter, pages
In conclusion, I would ask a kindly criticism of my effort to enlarge the work on the lines suggested by my father. It is a matter of regret to me that the task should have fallen to my less capable hands.
Page 120—The context from page 119 is carried on at the lower end of page 120. This portion of reading matter should be at the top of the page, but what follows has been inserted by error.
Page 123—After the work had gone to press we were told that the duel mentioned was fought in Pigeon Bay.
Page 133a—On the fifth line the name of the brig should be Elizabeth, not Martha.
Page 247—On the sixth line it should read early thirties. As seen by reference to page 207. Bruce was in the South Island before 1836.
Page 251—On line 24 Takapuneke is mentioned as the Red House Bay by Green's Point. The real Takapuneke is close by Wainui, where Te Mai Hara Nui was captured.
Page 265—The story mentioned of Bully Hayes carrying off one of Mr. Green's barmaids is incorrect. The true story is told on page 344.
Page 341—Since writing the preamble to Captain Stanley's report and crediting recent collaborators with unearthing same, the editor has found that the contents were well known thirty years ago, as seen by reference to pages 80-85.
To all who know how attentively the Maoris noted the physical features of the country, and the prolific character of their geographical nomenclature, it is somewhat perplexing to find that an isolated region, with a conformation so marked as Banks Peninsula, does not possess a distinctive Maori name; unless, indeed, the present inhabitants have lost the knowledge of it, and confined to a part a name which originally embraced the whole. I am inclined to think that this is the case. In ancient times the whole island was spoken of as "the fish," and even now the northern part of it is called "Mua upoko" (the front head), while the southern part is called "Murihiku" (rear tail). I think it is highly probable that when the first explorers, looking southwards from the neighbourhood of Kaikoura, saw the Peninsula looming up against the sky, they took it to be the limit of the land's extent, and called it accordingly the Hiku, or tail-end of the fish. But the combination of Rangi (sky) with Hiku may point to another derivation, since Hikurangi is the name of a mountain at the head of the Waiapu Valley, near East Cape. The name may possibly have been applied to this peninsula from some fancied resemblance in its appearance, when first sighted from the north, to the well known mountain near the ancient home of the Ngatikahunu tribe.
Whether the Peninsula was ever inhabited by people of another race it is impossible to say, owing to the absence of conclusive evidence either one way or the other. My evidently belong to persons and events connected with Maori history in distant ages, long before the migration from Hawaiki.
Whether the Peninsula was ever inhabited by people of another race it is impossible to say, owing to the absence of conclusive evidence either one way or the other. My
Before entering on the narrative of Ngai Tahu's doings on Banks Peninsula, it may be interesting to relate what the Maoris say about one monument of the former inhabitants that still remains, known as the
Between Fisherman's and Paua Bays, on the edge of a bold cliff, may still be seen the remains of the most ancient Maori pa in this locality. The date of its occupation can only be a matter of conjecture, but if it belonged to the Ngatimamoe, as generally reported, it must be from three to four hundred years old.
Some light has lately been thrown upon the fate of these men by the Chatham Islanders, who say that their ancestors arrived at Wharekauri after being blown off the coast of their own land. They also speak of some of their ancestors coming from the foot of Te ahu patiki (Mount Herbert), and that the reason for their leaving was owing to the defeat and death of their chief Tira, who was killed while endeavouring to punish his daughter's husband, who had been guilty of adultery. On reaching Wharekauri, they were kindly received by Marupo, the chief of a Maori-speaking race. By the advice of their hosts, the new arrivals resolved to give up fighting and cannibalism. The Maori refugees carried kumara seeds with them, but on planting them they died, so they returned to New Zealand
Not far from the pa of Nga-toko ono may be seen the outlines of the protective works of another ancient pa known as Parakakariki, It was situated at the end of one of the spurs on the south side of Long Bay, and was an important stronghold of the Ngatimamoe. It was captured and destroyed by Moki, who, in the celebrated war canoe Makawhiu, coasted round the Peninsula, and completely subdued all the Ngatimamoe inhabitants.
This chief, who resided, after the Ngai Tahu migration, at Ote Kaue, near the mouth of the Wairau River, was induced to undertake the expedition against the Peninsula by the report brought to him by his wife's two brothers, Kaiapu and Te Makino, which had accompanied Waitai on his voyage from Wairau to Otago, when that chief, offended by Maru's determination to spare the Ngatimamoe, seceded from the Ngai Tahu confederacy. These two young men had noticed, while coasting southwards, the vast extent of the plains stretching from the sea shore to the snowy ranges, and had also been particular to mark the position of the numerous Ngatimamoe pas passed during the voyage. When their canoe touched at Hikurangi, they had learnt that their old tribal enemy Tu te kawa was living not far off at Waikakahi, a piece of information which afterwards led to important results.
After accompanying Waitai to Murihiku, and taking part in various encounters between his forces and the hostile tribes by which he was surrounded, Kaiapu and Te Makino were seized with a long desire to avenge the death
They passed safely through the hostile country, and reached the outskirts of Ote Kaue, when they made enquiries for Moki's house. They were told that they could not mistake it. as it was the loftiest building in the pah, with the
Te Rangi Whakaputa was the first to come and welcome them. He asked whether they had seen any good country towards the south. They replied that they had. "What food," he asked, "is procurable there?" "Fern root," they replied, "is one food, kauru is another, and there are wekas and rats and eels in abundance." He then retired, and Mango took his place and asked, "Did you see any good country in your travels?" "Yes," they replied,
But there was another and still more powerful incentive than ths acquisition of a rich food producing district to
The feud between the chief Tu te kawa and the ruling family of Ngai Tahu was caused by his having put Tuahurin's wives to death at Te mata ki kai-poika, a pa on the south-east coast of the North Island. Tuahuriri had from some cause incurred the ill will of a powerful member of his own tribe, the renowned warrior Hika-oro-roa. That chief assembled his relations and dependents, amongst whom was Tu te kawa, and led them to attack Tuahuriri's pa. When they were approaching the pa at dawn of day, and just as the leader was preparing to take the foremost part in the assault, a youth named Turuki, eager to distinguish himself, rushed past Hika-oro-roa, who uttered an exclamation of surprise and indignation at his presumption, asked in sneering tones "how a nameless warrior could dare to try and snatch the credit of a victory he had done nothing to win." Turuki, burning with shame at the taunt, rushed back to the rear, and addressed himself to Tu te kawa, who was the head of his family, and besought him to withdraw his contingent and proceed at once to attack the pa from the opposite side, and thus secure the
When the war party were re embarking in their canoes, a few hours later, Tuahuriri came out to the edge of the forest, and called to Tu te kawa, and asked him whether he bad got his waist cloth, belt and weapons. On being answered in the
They soon had ample evidence that their fears were well grounded, for the war canoe Te Maka whiu, manned by the choicest warriors of Ngai Tahu, and commanded by the experienced leader Moki, was rapidly approaching his retreat, with the avowed intention of avenging Tuahuriri's wives. When the expedition arrived at Koukourarata, a Council of war was held, to decide whether to approach Waikakahi by land or by sea. Some advised an immediate advance on the place overland. This was opposed by Moki, who said he had been warned that Tu te kawa was sitting like a wood pigeon on a bough, facing his foes, and that if they approached him from the direction he faced, he would take flight before they could catch him. After much discussion, it was decided to go by sea. The warriors accordingly re-embarked, and pulled southwards. As they approached Okain's Bay, Moki observed the groves of karaka trees growing near the shore, and wishing to become the possessor of them, he whispered the following directions in his attendant slave's ear:—"When I order the canoe to be beached, take care to be the first to reach the shore, and at once cry out aloud, 'My land, O Karaka!'" The slave prepared to carry out his master's instructions, and, as the canoe neared shallow water, he jumped overboard, and tried to wade ashore in advance of anyone else. But he was forestalled by Mahi ao tea, one of the crew, who, suspecting Moki's design, sprang from the bows of the canoe to the beach, shouting aloud, "My pa, Karaka! my bay, Kawatea!" Encouraged by the success of the attempt to secure an estate for himself, this young man, who was only a chief of the secondary rank, resolved to proceed overland to the destination of Te Maka whiu. Accompanied by a few followers, he made his way from Okain's Bay to Gough's Bay. In the forests he encountered Te aitanga a Hine mate roa, a wild race (thought to be enchanted black pine trees), whom he overcame and destroyed; and between Poutakaro and Otu tahu ao he fell in with Te ti a Tau
While the plan of attack was under discussion, Moki, the commander in chief, suddenly called out to Turangipo, a noted veteran, famed for deeds of valour performed on many a battle field in the North Island. Turangipo asked what Moki wanted. "You may eat," he replied, "the head of your Lady Paramount." Turangipo remained silent for some time, pondering over what was meant by this strange speech. He felt convinced that Moki was employing some spell to paralyse his energies, and rob him of any chance of gaining distinction in the coming encounter with Ngatimamoe. He conjectured that Moki, annoyed at the failure of the attempt to secure for himself the karaka groves at Okain's Bay, was now bent on making sure of better success at Parakakariki, and that, in order to gain his end, he was endeavouring to cast a
The shadow of Moki's form across his threshold was the first intimation Tu te kawa had of the arrival of the Ngai Tahu. The old chief, infirm and helpless, was found coiled up in his mats in a corner of his house, and Tuahuriri's sons, mindful of their father's last words, "If you ever meet the old man spare him," were prompted at the last moment to shield their kinsman, but the averger of blood thrust his spear between them, and plunged it into the old man's body. It may be necessary to explain here why the Ngai Tahu chiefs hesitated at the last moment to carry out the avowed purpose of the expedition. Tuahuriri's injunction, and their desire to carry it out, were quite consistent with the Maori customs relating to feuds of this nature. Tu te kawa had spared Tuahuriri's life, and therefore merited like protection at his hands. But Tu te kawa had killed Tuahuriri's wives, and their death required to be avenged, but not necessariiy by the death of the person who killed them; it would be sufficient atonement if one of his nearest blood relations suffered for the crime. This practice will be fully illustrated in subsequent pages containing the account of the Kai Huanga feud
Having ascertained that Te Rangi tamau was away at Taumutu, and not knowing what course he might take to avenge his father's death, Moki gave orders that a watch should be kept at night round the camp, to guard against
After the destruction of Parakakariki and the death of Tu te kawa, the various chiefs of Ngai Tabu engaged in
Some years after these events took place, another section of Ngai Tahu, under the command of Te Wera, a fiery warrior, destined to play an important part in the history of his tribe in the South, came in search of a new home. They landed at Hikurangi, hut finding that the place was already occupied, they sent to Whaka Moana for Manaia, a chief of a very high distinction, the Upoka ariki, or heir to all the family honours of more than one hapu in the tribe. On his anival, a war dance was held in his honour, and there was much friendly speechifying. Te Wera, after indulging in some rude witticisms on the personal appearance of their "squint eyed lord," extended his right arm, and called upon Manaia to enter. Manaia rose up and passed under his arm, and so peace was confirmed between them; but, to cement their friendship still more firmly, Te Wera gave Irakehu, grand daughter of Te Rangi Whakaputa, to Manaia in marriage, and she became the ancestress of Mr. and Mrs. Tikao, Paurini, and the other chief persons in the Maori community here. Te Wera and his party then sailed away to the South, and established themselves for a time near Waikouaiti, where they were as much dreaded for their ferocity by other sections of their own tribe as by the Ngatimamoo, whom they were trying to exterminate.
For many generations the Maoris on the Peninsula remained in peaceful occupation of their new homes, undisturbed by foreign attacks or internal strife. Occasionally the bolder spirits amongst them would go away to take part in the wars against Ngatimamoe, which were carried on for many years in districts further to the South, or else to take part in some quarrel between different sections of the Ngai Tahu tribe located elsewhere. Among those who went off in search of military honours was a certain heretical teacher named Kiri mahi
The condition of those who remained quietly at home was enjoyable enough, for it is a great mistake to suppose that the old Maori life in peaceful times was one of privation and suffering; on the contrary, it was a very pleasant state of existence. There was a variety and abundance of food, and agreeable and healthy occupation for mind and body. Each season of the year, and each part of the day, had its specially allotted work, both for men and women. The women, besides such household duties as cooking and cleaning their houses, made the clothing and bedding required for their families. They gathered the flax and ti palm fibres used, and prepared and worked them up into a great variety of garments, many of which took several months to complete, and which, when finished, were very beautiful specimens of workmanship. The men gathered in the food and stored it in whatas or store-rooms, which were attached to every dwelling, and built on tall posts to protect the contents from damp and rats. Besides such natural products of the soil as fern root, ti palm stems, and convolvulus roots, they cultivated the kumera, hue, taro and karaka. Fish of various kinds were caught during the proper season, and cured by drying in the sun. Wild pigeons, kakas, paradise ducks, and mutton birds were cooked and preserved in their fat in vessels made out of large kelp leaves, and bound round with totara bark to strengthen them Netting, carving; and the grinding and
The Ngai Tahu chiefs who exercised the greatest influence over the fortunes of their people in modern times were Te Mai hara nui, Taiaroa, and Tuhawaiki, better known by the whalers' sobriquet, "Bloody Jack." All three took a prominent part in the later history of the Peninsula. Te Mai hara nui was the highest in rank, while his cousin Tuhawaiki came next; but, though slightly superior by birth, both were inferior in mental and moral qualities to Taiaroa, a noble man, whose conduct stands out in pleasing contrast to that of the two cousins. For while they will only be remembered by the story of their cruel and evil deeds, he will always be esteemed for his brave and generous actions in war, and his wise and kindly counsels in peace. Te Mai hara nui was the Upoko Ariki, or heir to the ancestral honours of Ngai Te Rangiamoa, the noblest family of Ngai Tahu, but he gained still further distinction from the fact that several other noble lines met in his person. As the hereditary spiritual head of the tribe, he was regarded with peculiar reverence and respect; the common people did not dare to look upon his face, and his equals felt his sacred presence an oppressive restriction upon their liberty of action, for even an accidental breach of etiquette while holding intercourse with him might involve them in serious loss of property, if not of life. His visits were always dreaded, and his movements whenever he entered a pa were watched with great anxiety by the inhabitants, for if his shadow happened to fall upon a whata or rua (the storehouse for
The Kai huarga feud was the first serious outbreak
Te Mai hara nui was absent from the district at the commencement of the feud, having gone to Kaikoura to fetch a large war canoe which his relatives there had presented to him. He first heard of the outbreak on landing at Te Aka Aka (Salt-water Creek), where some persons met him, and told him that some of his family had been attacked, and several of them killed. He made no remark to his informants, but when he reached Kaiapoi, a few hours later, he said to his uncles, who resided there, "It is my turn now; Ngati hui kai is there, Ngati hui kai is here, Ngati Mango is there, Ngati mango is here; Ngai tua huriri, do not move." This was an intimation that he would avenge his relatives' death, and that it was his wish that the Kaiapoi people should not interfere. There was some probability of their doing so, as many Kaiapoi families were connected by marriage with the Taumutu people. Having given expression to his determination, he proceeded on his journey towards Akaroa, followed by about twenty Kaiapoi men. On reaching Wairewa, steps were immediately
The severe defeat sustained by the Taumutu people at Hakitai did not crush their spirits, nor weaken their determination to retaliate on the first fitting opportunity. But to accomplish their purpose it was necessary to obtain assistance, since they had received convincing proof in the late engagement that, single handed, they were no match for Te Mai hara nui's powerful clans. Accordingly, they commissioned Hine haka, mother of Ihaia, Whaitiri, a lady connected with many influential chiefs in the South, to proceed to Otakou and Murihiku, for the purpose of enlisting her friends' sympathies on their behalf, and raising from amongst them an armed force to aid them in the coming struggle. She was successful in her mission, and returned in a few months, accompanied by a considerable body of men. But they were not destined to achieve any great victory or to inflict any serious loss upon their opponents. On the arrival of their reinforcements at Taumutu,
Leaving Wairewa, the expedition marched up the Okiri Valley, and over the Waipuna Saddle, and down the Otutu spur to Koukourarata. The scouts in advance came there upon Te ha-nui-orangi, an elderly chief, who was sitting in the sunshine quite unconscious of the existence of danger. His youthful companions were all asleep under the trees, at a short distance off, but before they could be alarmed he was killed. The noise of the struggle roused the young men, who flew too late to his rescue, but they caught one of his assailants, Te Whaka moa moa. The rest of them took to flight, and rejoined their main body, who, hearing what had happened, decided to push on at once to Purau,
After the destruction of Ripapa, the Otakou and Murihiku warriors returned home, carrying with them the entire population of Taumutu, for they feared to leave them behind to encounter the vengeance of the survivors of the pas that had lately suffered so severely at their hands. But they were soon followed to Otakou by Te Mai hara nui, who, with treacherous intent, employed every argument to induce the Taumutu people to return home. He assured them that all angry feeling had now subsided, that his followers were appeased, being satiated with vengeance. "Return," he urged, "to protect your rich preserves of flat fish at Waihora." He was so pressing in his entreaties, and so positive in his assurances of friendship and Security, that Tawha and the rest of the people consented to return, with the exception of Pokeha and Tihau, who were distrustful, and remained under the protection of their Southern friends. Having gained the object of his pohas they had presented to him as far as Akaroa. His request was readily acceded to, and several men were ordered to accompany him The party travelled amicably up the coast, but on reaching the head of the harbour, Te Mai hara nui, without apparent cause or provocation, perpetrated one of the base and cruel deeds that have rendered his memory infamous. In spite of the remonstrances of his friends and followers, he fell upon the unfortunate carriers, and killed every one of them with his own hands; and then he cut up their bodies and sent portions to all the different pas and hamlets on the Peninsula.
While this tragedy was being enacted in Akaroa harbour, Tawha and his people were journeying towards their home, and were already nearing the mouth of the Rakaia. On being apprised of the fact, Te Mai hara nui despatched a messenger to Kaiapoi to order a detachment of warriors to come to his assistance. About two hundred obeyed the summons, without knowing what their services were wanted for. The narrative of what followed I give in the words of Hakopate atao Tu, an old Kaiapoi chief, still living in 1883. "On reaching Wairewa, we met Te Mai hara nui and a large gathering of men. As soon as we were seated, the Ariki rose up and made a speech to us; then we learnt for the first time that we were meant to attack Taumutu. We were ordered to commence our march at once, and Te Mai hara nui kept in advance of everyone, to prevent any of the chiefs who accompanied him from going forward to meet the returning refugees and exchange pledgeg of peace with them. It was on this march down the Kaitorete spit that our old Kaiapoi warriors first handled a musket It was very amusing to watch their efforts to
The slaughter at Orehu was very great, and the cannibal feasts that followed lasted several days. It was the last great encounter connected with the Kai huanga feud, but the last victim was the chief Taununu, who was killed by Kaiwhata and Kaurehe at Otokitoki (close to the spring on the small promontory at the mouth of Lake Forsyth) These two persons were accompanying Taiaroa on one occasion to the South, and finding Taununu alone, they tomakawked him with a woman named Takapauhikihiki. The murder was never avenged. The appearance of Rauparaha at Kaiapoi put a stop for a time to these internal quarrels, and forced Ngai Tahu to combine together to resist the common fee, and so ended the disgraceful Kai-huanga feud.
But it must not be supposed that these places were then occupied for the first time. One result of the Kai huanga feud was to drive all who could escape from the destroyed pas to take refuge in the bays on the north-east side of the Peninsula. Those places were then so difficult of access by land that the refugees who took possession of them hoped to be quite secure from pursuit. In the course of a few years several populous settlements sprung up, and of these sold to death by his atuas for a Slight he had put upon them before starting on his journey. Just before leaving home, his atua had cried out for food to be placed on its shrine. It had said, "I hunger after eel." Te Puhirere told his wife to give the atua what it asked for, but she grudged to give it the best fish, and not knowing the risk she was running by not doing so, being a new wife—the old and experienced wife being dead—she gave the atua a very small and thin eel. Her conduct; exasperated the atua, who, to avenge itself, delivered Te Puhirere and his companions into their enemies' hands, by permitting them to continue their journey without warning them of the great risk they were running. None of the party had the least suspicion that the approaches to Kaiapoi were in the hands of a hostile northern force. They journeyed on towards their destination till they reached the causeway through the Ngawari swamp, where they fell suddenly and unexpectedly into the hands of an ambuscade. Both Hape and Te Puhirere were killed, but
After the massacre of Rauparaha's chiefs by the inhabitants of Kaiapoi, and his withdrawal from the neighbourhood, the survivors of the Akaroa party returned home. When passing the spot where they had been attacked, they found the clothing of the two chiefs who were killed, and not liking to lose such good mats, they picked them up and carried them home, and appropriated them to their own use. In time it came to be generally reported that Hape and Puhirere had been kaipirautia, or dishonoured after death, by some persons who were known, When a full report of what had happened reached the ears of Te Mai hara nui, he expressed the greatest indignation at the indignity perpetrated on his deceased relatives by those who had dared to wear their mats. He summoned the warriors of Ngai tarewa, Ngati Irakehu, and Ngati hui kai, and led them to avenge the insult by attacking in succession all the pas erected by the refugees at Panau and elsewhere. A few only were killed; the majority were spared, and employed by their captors as slaves.
Two of these prisoners, who had fallen to the lot of Paewhiti (old Martin), did not agree very well with their master, and ran away to their friends at Koukourarata. Tama i Tikao, who was then a boy, remembers how angry his father Taupori was because the runaways did not seek his protection; for he had been invited by Ngatata to leave Kaiapoi and to reside at Koukourarata, in order to shield him from any attack by the Akaroa people. When the two men who deserted from Paewhiti were seen emerging from the bush above the Whatamaraki, every one expected they would soon arrive at the settlement; but it soon became evident that they passed on to a neighbouring village of Ngai te rangi. Taupori could not contain his indignation at what he regarded as a grevious slight offered to himself by the travellers, and he demanded that Ngatata should send at once and fetch them back. His demand was complied with, and a canoe was
But another runaway was not so successful in pacifying Taupori's eldest son, Te Whare rakau, who felt injured in reputation by his distrustful conduct. Te Whare rakau had gone with his eldest boy to Pigeon Bay to fell totara trees for making canoes. He was engaged working on two, one called Te Ahi aua, and the other Te poho a te Atua, when a man named Kahuroa made his appearance, accompanied by his wife and children When Te Whare rakau saw him, he asked him to stay and assist him in his work. The man consented to do so, but during the night he went away with his family, and so quietly as not to awaken Te Whare rakau. This made him very angry (pouri), because he had inadvertently endangered his own life and that of his son by entertaining an unfriendly guest, who might easily have killed him in his sleep. He was vexed with himself for having allowed such a person the opportunity of saying that he could, if so disposed, have killed Te Whare rakau; that, in fact, he had spared his life. On returning home he told his father and their friends, who tried to quiet him, but without avail. Some time afterwards he happened to be in a canoe, containing, amongst others, no less a personage than Momo, the great chief of Kaiapoi, and, while they were pulling along the coast, Te Whare rakau caught sight of Kahuroa on the beach. He immediately asked to be put on shore that he might pursue him. "What!" said Momo, "would you slay your own kinsman?" "What else can I do?" be
About a year after the raid on Panau, Te Mai hara nui was captured in Akaroa Harbour by Te Rauparaha, the noted warrior chief of Kapiti, who came, accompanied by. one hundred and seventy men, in an English trading ves sel, for the express purpose of securing his person The anxiety displayed by Rauparaha for the capture of this particular chief was caused by the determination to obtain the most distinguished member of the Ngai Tahu tribe, as payment for his near relative Te Pehi, who, in his opinion, was treacherously put to death by members of that tribe at Kaiapoi, but who, in the opinion of those who killed him, was lawfully executed for his treacherous designs upon those who were hospitably entertaining him. Considering the circumstances that preceded the death of Te Pehi and his companions, the Kaiapoi residents had reasonable grounds for being suspicious respecting the intentions of their visitors. For Rauparaha arrived with a large armed force, uninvited, and without warning, before their pa, and red handed from the slaughter of their clansmen at Omihi, whom he had been provoked to attack by a silly threat uttered by one of their chiefs. The threat was that "If Rauparaha ever dared to come upon his territory he would rip his body open with a barracouta tooth," The defiant words were no sooner reported to Rauparaha than he accepted the challenge, and having fitted out a fleet of war canoes, and manned them with his choicest warriors, be crossed the straits and coasted down as far as Kaikoura, where he attacked and killed the vain boaster, and destroyed every pa in the neighbourhood. As the population was too numerous to be put to death, he sent a
For many days the inhabitants of Kaiapoi treated their guests with profuse hospitality, and dealt liberally with them in their bargains for greenstone, when ail at once their worst suspicions were revived by Hakitara, a Ngapuhi native, who had lived many years with them, and who had been staying by invitation in Rauparaha's camp. He returned early one morning with the news that he had overheard daring the night, the discussion in a council of war, of plans for the seizure of the place, and that they might be quite sure that treachery was meditated against them. His report received confirmation from the altered demeanour of their guests, who grew insolent and exacting in their demands for greenstone. The Kaiapoi natives, after a short consultation, determined in self-defence to strike the first blow, and at a concerted signal they fell upon the northern chiefs and put them all to death. Rauparaba was overwhelmed with grief and rage when he learnt the fate of his friends, but, not having a sufficient force to avenge them, he retired to Waipara, after killing a few travellers who fell into his bands, and there he re
Safe in his island fortress, he occupied himself for some
The remarkable pear shaped promontory which divides the upper end of Akaroa harbour into two smaller bays, is a locality possessing special-interest to the Maori annalist, not only from its having bten from ancient times the reported abode of an atua or guardian spirit, but more particularly because it was the site of the last occupied Maori fortress on the Peninsula, and the scene of a terrible encounter with Eauparaha's forces.
The summit of Onawe was called Te pa nui o Hau (the chief home of wind) There, amoDgst the huge boulders and rocks that crown the hill and cover its steep sloping sides, dwelt the Spirit of the Wind. Tradition tells how jealously it guarded its sacred haunts from careless intrusion; how it terrified the unwary or too daring trespasser by demanding with startling suddenness and in strange unearthly tones "What doest thou here?" instantly following up the question with peremptory command "Turn back!"—a command which none dared to
When the inhabitants of Akaroa became alarmed for their safety on account of Rauparaha's evident intention to extend his. conquests to the south of Kaikoura, they resolved to erect a fortified pa, capable of containing all who might require to take refuge in it. They fixed upon Onawe as the most suitable site, though subsequent events proved their want of judgment in selecting a position so easily assailed,
The remains of the defensive works which still exist attest the size and strength of the pa, and awaken a suspicion in the observer's mind that the Maoris received the assistance of Europeans in their construction. But this they most positively deny. They assert that the fortifications wera entirely designed and executed by themselves, and that any departures from the ancient lines of construction that may be observable were caused by the alterations necessary to meet the introduction of firearms. A deep trench surrounded the pa, the earth taken from it forming the walls, along the top of which a strong fence was erected. All round the inside of the fence was a covered way for the protection of the defenders. The approach to a spring on the south side of the promontory was by a covered trench, protected by walls running parallel to each other; but to ensure a supply of water in the event of this road to the spring being cut off, a number of large canoes were dragged up into the pa and filled with fresh water, and covered over with matting to prevent loss by evaporation. Ruas and whatas were stored with provisions, and every precaution taken to enable the occupants of the pa to sustain a siege.
The various preparations for defence were barely completed before the startling intelligence was brought that Rauparaha had invested Kaiapoi with a large military force, The inhabitants of Akaroa and its neighbourhood flocked at once into Onawe, and prepared for the worst. Tangatahara was placed in chief command, and under him Puaka and Potahi. They were able to muster about four hundred warriors, most of whom were armed with muskets, the rest having to content themselves with steel hatchets or the more primitive weapons used by their forefathers. During the six months the siege of Kaiopoi lasted the occupants of Onawo suffered constant alarms from the reports that reached their ears of atrocities perpetrated by Rauparaha's foraging parties. The condition of suspense was brought to a close by the capture of Kaiapoi and the arrival of a party of fugitives with the news of its destruction, and the important intelligence that they had left Rauparaha in the act of embarking his men with the avowed intention of conveying them round to attack Onawe. Everyone was now on the alert, and many were in dread expectation of what was to follow. Shortly after receiving this timely warning, the sentinels descried at a very early hour one morning a large fleet of war canoes pulling up the harbour, Rauparaha evidently purposed to surprise the place, but his design was frustrated by the watchfulness of tbe defenders. Finding his plan had failed, he retired, ordering part of his force to camp in Barry's Bay and part at the Head of the Bay. Ngatitoa landed near the short wharf in Barry's Bay, where they commenced to prepare for cooking their food; while Ngatiawa landed near where Mrs Shadbolt's house stands, and prepared to do the same. Innumerable fires were soon blazing on the little heaps of stones, gathered into the shallow basin shaped holes scooped in tbe ground, and on which, when sufficiently heated, the food would be placed, and covered with matting and earth to cook Observing that Rauparaha had divided his forces, and that between the two divisions lay a thick wood, and a stretch of swampy ground, it occurred to Tangatahara that by
Amongst those who escaped were two refugees from Kaiapoi—Aperahama Te Aiki and Wi Te pa, They happened to be outside the gate when the slaughter began, and at once sought shelter in the scrub that covered the hill sides to the waters edge. They were observed by two men in charge of one of the northern war canoes, who pulled to the beach just under their hiding place, exelaiming "Our slaves, two for us," and they might have been caught, but for the courage of Wi Te pa, who, fortunately, had a loaded gun with him. Creeping down through the bushes, he stood concealed just above high-water mark, and as the man in the bows was preparing to jump on shore Wi Tepa fired, and nearly blew the top of his head off; his companion, seeing what had happened, pushed the canoe back again into deep water with all speed, and the two fugitives made their way to the hills, where they were joined by tbe late Pita Te Hori and others, and
The capture and destruction of Onawe almost annihilated the Maori inhabitants of the Peninsula. Of tbe few survivors, some had tbe courage to return to their homes after the departure of the northern invaders, but others unable to overcome their fears, fled for refuge to Otakou, where they remained till induced, to join the expedition organised by Taiaroa and Tukawaiki to attack Rauparaha on the shores of Cook's Straits. Before the capture of Kaiapoi, Taiaroa had escaped with about two hundred followers, purposing to return with a larger force for the relief of the besieged pa, but before he could execute his design the place was taken, and the subsequent capture of Onawe put a stop for a time to his movements; but having learnt that Rauparaha paid periodical visits to the settlement he had formed on the shores of Cook's Straits, he determined to go there and seek to avenge the injuries done to Ngai Tabu. He was coidially assisted in carrying out his designs by Tuhawaiki, Karetai, and other chiefs, who headed the populous communities which still existed in the south. But though active in organising the first expedition, Taiaroa did not accompany it. It consisted of two hundred and seventy men, under the command of Tuhawaiki and Karetai.
They proceeded in war canoes from Otakou to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where they were successful in surprising Rauparaha, who had a very narrow escape from
Encouraged by the success of the first expedition, known as Oraumoa iti, a second, on a much larger scale, was resolved upon, to be known as Oraumoa nui. Some little time was spent in making preparations, and, when they were completed, it was found that upwards of four hundred warriors had assembled to take part in it. Taiaroa assumed the command, and, having despatched a portion of his forces by water, he marched up the coast, gaining slight accessions to his numbers at each stage.
On the way an incident occurred which throws some light on the motives which prompted those deeds of apparently senseless barbarity which so often darken the pages of the internal history of Maori tribes. Accompanying Taiaroa's expedition was a chief noted for his harsh and cruel disposition, Te Wakataupoka by name. On reaching Taumutu, this man was with difficulty dissuaded from killing the surviving remnants of the hapus destroyed by Rauparaha, whom he found gathered there, The reason he gave for wishing to perpetrate such a cruel deed was that all his own friends and relations had been killed in the encounter from which these people had escaped, and he regarded their escape as having been purchased at the cost of those who perished, and therefore demanding the vengeance of surviving relatives. His inhuman proposal was resisted by Tu te hou nuku, the long-lost son of Te Mai hara nui, who had arrived in a whaling ship at Otakou just as the second Oraumoa expedition was leaving, and who, approving of its object, had at once joined it. Tu, unlike his father, was of a merciful and kindly disposition, and bestirred himself to protect the lives threatened with destruction. He sent off at once to Wairewa for his cousin Mairehe (Mrs Tikao) and the few remaining members of his family still to be found there. On their arrival, Te Whakataupoka found that he could not carry out his sanguinary purpose, as he would have been forcibly restrained from doing any harm to the sacred persons of the Ariki's family, who formed part of the remnant that escaped from Te Rauparaha, and whose presence protected their less influential fellow-sufferers from destruction.
Is would needlessly prolong this narrative to relate the encounter between the several forces uader Taiaroa and Ruaparaba. Suffice it to say that the Southern expedition was successful, But a sad disaster befell it when returning, which resulted in the loss of many valuable lives. Taiaroa's fleet, which consisted of twenty nine canoes, was mainly composed of vessels specially adapted for oceaa voyaging, formed by lashing two ordinary war canoes together, and further strengthening them with a deck; but the canoe ia which Tu te hou nuka and many of the o'dest chiefs embarked was only an ordinary war canoe, quite unable to cope with the winds and waves of stormy Rau Kawa. When rounding Cape Campbell, the fleet encountered a tremendous storm, and though Tu and his companions handled their canoe with all the skill of experienced seamen, it capsized before reaching the shore, and all but an old woman named Mawhai were drowned. She managed to escape by clinging on to the canoe till it washed up. Their comrades, who witnessed the accident from the beach, were unable to render them any assistance, but after it was all over they waited in the neighbourhood till the bodies were cast up. On finding the remains of Tu te hou nuku, they prepared at once to conduct his funeral rites, which were superintended by Te Wera. He commenced by killing the poor woman who had reached the shore alive, as an offering to the manes of the deceased. He then cut up the canoe, and with the fragments burnt the body of the young chief. The actual handling of the corpse was assigned to Rangitihi, the husband of Wakatau's sister, who was in consequence subjected to the inconvenience of being fed for a long period by the hands of his wife, Te Wera. His own hands having become tapu from contact with the sacred body, he dared not touch anything in the shape of food, cooked or uncooked, nor engage in the cultivation of soil, for a whole year afterwards. As Tu te hou nuku left no children, Te Mai hara nui's line became extinct at his death.
The depopulated Peninsula would have continued without Maori inhabitants up to the date of colonisation but for the great change wrought in Rauparaha's warriors by Christianity. Those fierce and cruel men, having been led by the teaching of the Rev. Mr Hadfield, the present Anglican Bishop of Wellington, to embrace Christianity, gave convincing proof of the sincerity by releasing all their Ngai Tahu captives, whose compulsory labours were a great source of wealth and profit to them. But they not. only gave them their freedom, they even allowed them to return to their own land, and, in order to ensure them a safe reception from those who might during their enforced absence have usurped their estates, several notable Northern chiefs accompanied them home Port Levy, Akaroa, Gough's Bay, and Wairewa could again count their inhabitants by scores, if not even by hundreds, while several small hamlets were formed in other places round the coast. Port Levy became the principal centre, and there many important Maori gatherings took place, both before and after colonisation began. It was there that Rauparaha's son and nephew spent some time instructing the people in the doctrines of Christianity and teaching them to read and write in their own language, endeavouring as far as they could to repair the wrongs done to Ngai Tahu by Rauparaha and his warriors. It was there that the northern chiefs met Taiaroa and other influential southern chiefs, and exchanged pledges of peace and good will The re occupation of Kaiapoi, just before the arrival of the Canterbury Pilgrims, tended to thin the Maori population of this district, which has been still further reduced by the fatal effects of European diseases, rendered more destructive than they would otherwise have been from the Maoris having been forced to crowd together on the limited areas reserved for them, where, surrounded by constantly accumulating heaps of pollution, deprived of the excitement of hunting and travel, deprived of all political influence, without any fixed aim or object in life, a prey to
Knowing the disorganised state into which Maori society had fallen just before colonization began, the public are too ready to credit that event with whatever improvement may be apparent in the present condition of the Natives, and to conclude that the Maoris must be in every way better off than they could have been without the settlement of the country. But, as a matter of fact, it was not to colonization, but to their own acceptance of Christianity that the Maoris owed the restoration of peace and order. When the first colonists arrived the Maoris were a Christian nation. Without saying a word in disparagement of the colonists, who as a whole have honestly endeavoured to treat the Maoris fairly, it cannot be denied that whatever benefits the Maoris have derived from colonization have been the result of indirect rather than any direct efforts made by the colonists for their good. Beyond being spared the prospect of a violent death, it is hard for a Maori to see that he has gained anything; and even that benefit would have been secured to him under the reign of law established by the reception of Christianity. Provision for the education of their children, and for the proper care of the sick and needy, was stipulated for by the Maoris when parting with their lands, so that no credit is due to the Colonial Government for what has been down towards fulfilling the conditions of the original deed of purchase. But whatever faults may be charged against our administration of Native affairs, and however disastrously our mistakes may have affected the interests of individuals of the Native race, it is gratifying to know that the more intelligent amongst them regard their misfortunes, not as the result of any intention on our part to injure them, but rather as the inevitable result of being brought suddenly into contact with a civilisation so far in advance of their own simpler mode of life.
The relations between the English and the Maori inhabitants of the Peninsula have always been of the most
The following narrative of the Maori massacre was published in the Auckland Herald. It was written by a Canterbury resident, in reply to a tale told by John Marmon, a celebrated "Pakeha Maori," whose history of the affair was published in the northern capital. The compiler of these stories gives it space here, because he wishes to place before his readers everything that is known on the subject:—
"In your weekly issue of January 20 I notice your comments on one of the most shocking stories in Maori history, as told by the late John Marmon, and which you believe to be substantially accurate. You further state that Captain Stewart, the well known discoverer of Stewart Island, New Zealand, was master of the vessel that took Te Rauparaha and his party to Banks Peninsula, and that his name will always be infamous for his connection with the atrocious massacre there. In justice to the memory of the dead, I feel it my duty to correct your statement, and not to allow the name of one of our earliest pioneers to be handed down to posterity in connection with that sad affair.
"Now, sir, Captain Stewart, the well-known discoverer of Stewart Island, and Captain Stewart, master of the brig Elizabeth, were not one and the same person, The former was for many years master of a trading and sealing vessel sailing out of the port of Sydney. In one of his sealing expeditions he discovered the island which now bears his name. In his old age he retired from the sea, and took up his abode with an old friend, a Mr Harris, of Poverty Bay, with whom he lived until the day of his death, which occurred in the year 1843 or 1844. He was a man much respected, and on his visits to Auckland could be easily recognised. No doubt there are a few old settlers still living that have seen, as well as myself, a
"Marmon states that Captain Stewart, on his arrival in Sydney, was arrested and put in prison, where he remained six months. This is not true. I may state that I arrived in Sydney in April, 1833, when everything connected with this notorious voyage was quite fresh in everybody's memory. I have heard it related over and over again. It appears Captain Stewart, after leaving New Zealand, made his way to Sydney. Soon after his arrival the news got
"As to Marmon's account relative to conversing with "Captain Stewart and John Cowell after their return to Kapiti, I should say it was a fabrication; for to my knowledge Marmon had been living in Hokianga, where he died, for nearly fifty years. I have never heard of his living in the South. Again, it is the first time I ever heard John Cowell's name in connection with Captain Stewart or the brig Elizabeth.
"In referring to Captain Stewart and his infamous voyage, I may relate the story as I heard it at the time I speak of, viz: —In the early days of New Zealand there was a great Maori chief named Te Pahi (head of the tribe to whom Te Rauparaha belonged), who was taken to Sydney, and from thence to England, where he was presented to King George, who was very kind to him, and made him several presents, and told him when he returned to his country to be good to the white man. On Te Pahi's return, he was full of what he had seen in England, He appears to have been a very good man, and anxious to tell of the wonderful things he had seen to other tribes
He went with a small party in a canoe to Akaroa (Banks Peninsula) to pay a friendly visit to the chief, Te Mairanui. On his arrival, he and his party were treated very kindly. Not having any suspicion of the treachery in store for them, they all went into the pa, when Te Mairanui and his men fell on them and killed every man. When the news reached Kapiti, there was great excitement amongst Te Pahi's tribe, of whom Te Rauparaha (after Te Pahi's death) was head. Of course, as was the custom then, the tribe were bound to have their revenge on the first opportunity. This opportunity offered when Captain Stewart made his appearance. Whether Captain Stewart was aware of the real intention of the Natives is a mystery, but for certain he was promised a large quantity of flax. On the arrival of the vessel in Akaroa, the Natives, as was the custom, soon came on board to trade, among them the chief Te Mairanui and his daughter, a girl from ten to twelve years of age. During this time Te Rauparaha and his party were in the ship's hold, keeping out of sight. As soon as the decks were full of men from the shore, Te Rauparaha's party rushed up from below, and killed all they could, with the exception of Te Mairanui and his daughter, whom they took alive. Te Rauparaha and his men then went on shore, took the pa, and killed all they came across. It was rumoured that human flesh was cooked in the ship's coppers, but this appears to be doubtful. The brig then sailed for the Island of Mana, in Cook Straits. On the passage Te Mairanui was lashed to the mainmast, and his little daughter allowed to walk about the deck. The story goes that one day Te Mairanui called his daughter to him, and, using these words, said, 'They are going to kill me, but they shall not kill or make a slave of you.' With that he took hold of her and dashed her brains out against the combing of the main hatchway. On the arrival of the brig Mana, Te Mairanui was taken ashore, and killed in this way: He was hung up by the heels, a vein cut in his throat, and, as he bled to death, they caught the blood in a bowl and drank it. I have never heard (as Mr Travers asserts) that a red hot ramrod
"Marmon says that Te Rauparaha and his party went overland from Cloudy Bay to Banks Peninsula. Now, this of itself is sufficient to throw a doubt over his whole version. And, again, he must have been quite ignorant of the geography of the Middle Island of New Zealand, or he must have known that it was impossible in those days to travel the distance without canoes. Then for Te Rauparaha to bring away fifty slaves was another impossibility. How could he cross the many rapid rivers? where could he get food from for them (there was little or no fern root, as in the North Island)? are all questions to be asked. Then, again, Rauparaha's settlement or pa was on the North Island. He had no settlement or pa in those days on the Middle Island, being always in fear of Bloody Jack and his tribe, from whom he had several narrow escapes. At one time they had a desperate fight in Fighting Bay, close to Port Underwood, in Cloudy Bay, which is called to this day Fighting Bay in memory of the fight referred to, so that it is very clear that Te Rauparaha would have to take his departure for his own settlement on the North Island, and this could not be done without canoes. Then, again, Natives in those days never travelled any distance by land when they could go by water in their fine large war canoes, carrying from fifty to a hundred men. If Marmon's version is true, Rauparaha had full satisfaction or revenge for his brother being killed, in killing the unfortunate natives and taking away the fifty slaves. He would not have gone a second time. It is the first time that I have ever heard John Cowell's name ia connection with Captain Stewart.
"I may state that I arrived in New Zealand in May, 1836, in the whaling ship Louisa, of Sydney, Captain Haywood. We anchored under Mana Island, in Cook Straits, where the ship remained during the bay whaling
In this paper we publish the text of a memorial forwarded in 1843 by the late Mr Hempleman to George Grey, Esq., then Lieutenant Governor of the Colony. As will be seen, Mr Hempleman claims to have been the first purchaser of the greater part of Banks Peninsula, including what was then Wangoolou, but is at present known as Akaroa. It will, of course, be apparent that if these claims had been substantiated, Captain Langlois' subsequent purchase would have been illegal. Of one thing there can be no doubt, and that is —that the Maoris sold the land twice over, and no doubt they would have done the same thing ten times if they had had the chance. Further on will be found the story of George Hempleman and his claims to Akaroa. The following is the memorial referred to:—
To His Excellency George Grey, Esquire, Lieutenant-Governor and Commander in-Chief in and over the Colony of New Zealand, etc. The Memorial of George Hempleman, of Peracke, in the Province of New Munster, Master Whaler and Mariner.
Humbly Showeth
That your memorialist on or about the month of March, in the year 1837, purchased of certain Natives, the copies thereof, the tract of land hereinafter described, and in the month of November, 1839, when full and complete payment was made to all the parties interested, and at that time assembled for the purpose, received from them a certificate of such purpose, which certificate is in the words and figures following:—
"November 2nd, 1839. This is to certify that Captain Hempleman has purchased the extent of land from Bloody Jack as under-mentioned:– From Mowry Harbour south to Flea Bay north, including Wangoolou, as agreed by the under-mentioned, viz., by payment of one big boat, by the name of Mary Ann, including two sails and jib. Extent of land fifteen miles east, south inland.
Signed by
John TuhaWaike.
Toby X Partrigee.
Jackey X White.
Allon X Tommy Roundhead.
Tyroa X.
Kikaroree X.
Walkatowree X. Ahane.
King John X.
Jackey Gay X Bangana X.
And witnessed by
. Simon Crawley
Jack X Miller.
Alfred Roberts.
" James X Creed.
That your memorialist has at times been resident on the land so purchased, and has also fenced and cultivated a portion thereof, and also established and worked a whaling station thereon. That the chiefs of and in that neighbourhood have been always, and are now ready and willing to admit the sale of such lands to your memorialist, and his rightful claim thereto.
That on or about the month of April, 1840, your memorialist caused to be addressed a statement to the Colonial Secretary for the Colony of New South Wales, and forwarded the same to Sydney in the same month, in which statement his claim to the said lands was set forth, agreeably with the provisions of a certain Act of the Legislative Council of New South Wales, empowering the
That some time afterwards, viz., about November, 1842, your memorialist was informed by the Chief Police Magistrate of Akaroa that your memorialist's claim was not among the gazetted claims to land published at Auckland, whereupon your memorialist immediately wrote to the Colonial Secretary at Auckland a letter setting forth his claim, together with a copy of the statement which had been addressed to the Secretary of New South Wales.
That your memorialist received a reply thereto, stating that the claim had not been received in the Colonial Secretary's office, and inviting him to produce any proof in his power that the letter to the Colonial Secretary of New South Wales was actually forwarded at the date specified.
That your memorialist with such invitation obtained a declaration from one Alfred Roberts (the person who wrote the statement to the Colonial Secretary of New South Wales setting forth his claim) of the facts before mentioned. A copy of this declaration is annexed hereto.
That in February, 1840, when Captain Fitzroy was in Wellington, your memorialist addressed a memorial to His Excellency, wherein, after setting forth the facts herein before referred to, he prayed that he would be pleased to take the case into his favourable consideration, and grant your memorialist permission to prove his claim.
That Captain Fitzroy, through his private secretary, replied to your memorialist that the Commission having returned from Banks Peninsula, could not then go again; an officer would inquire into the case.
That no steps whatever or instructions, as your memorialist has been informed, have been taken or issued for the investigation of his claim, the delaying which is to him a source of great loss and anxiety, and
Your memorialist humbly prays your Excellency to permit an investigation to be made into his claim, in order that he may receive a Crown grant upon his establishing a right thereto, or that you will grant to him such relief as
Copy declaration referred to in the foregoing memorial:— I, Alfred Roberts, of Wellington, in the Province of New Ulster, in the Colony of New Zealand, boatman, do solemnly and sincerely declare that I did in the month of April, in the year 1840, by the request and at the dictation of George Hempleman, then of Perake, in New Munster, in the said Colony of New Zealand, master whaler, write a certain letter setting forth the said George Hempleman's claim to certain Land therein mentioned; and situate in the district of Perake aforesaid, which he, the said George Hempleman, had purchased of certain native chiefs who had declared themselves the owners and possessors thereof, and who hard conveyed the same lands by deed dated November 2, 1839; and, further, that I did direct such aforesaid letter to the Hon. C. Leas Thompson, Colonial Secretary for the Colony of New South Wales, and did forward the same by brig Nimrod, which sailed for Sydney in or about the month of April, in the aforesaid 1840, and I make this solemn declaration conscientiously believing the same to be true, and by virtue of the provisions of an Act made and passed in the sixth year of the reign of His late Majesty, entitled an Act for the more effectual abolition of oaths and affirmations taken and made in various departments of the State, and to substitute declarations in lieu thereof, and for the more entire suppression of voluntary and extra-judicial oaths and affidavits, and to make other provisions for the abolition of unnecessary oaths.
(Signed) Alfred Roberts. Declared and subscribed at Wellington aforesaid, this 15th day of December, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and forty-three. (Signed) M. Richmond , C.P.M.Examined with the copy memorial and declaration in possession of the Commissioner, Colonel Campbell. December, 1853.
After his purchase of the Peninsula from Bloody Jack and the other Maori chiefs, George Hempleman appears to have lived quietly at Peraki, making occasional whaling trips, and visiting Sydney to exchange the oil for other commodities. He seems to have seen the occupation of Akaroa by the French with indifference, and to have had no dispute with them whatever about their taking the land. When, however, about the year 1852, he foundout that the Peninsula had been included in the Canterbury Association block, and that the English Government had given that Association some right over the land which he looked upon as his private property, he made a complaint to the Lieutenant-Governor in Auckland that his rights had been infringed. The result of this complaint was that, in the first session ever held of the New Zealand Legislative Council, the second ordnance passed was to the effect that all claims made by persons professing to have purchased lands from the Natives, prior to the English occupation, should at once be enquired into.
Colonel James Campbell was appointed the Commissioner to investigate the Middle Island claims. Appended is his report on Mr Hempleman's claim:—
No. 39 New Zealand.Report of the Commissioner appointed to examine and report upon the claims to grants of land under the Ordnance of the Legislative Council of New Zealand Session 1. No. 2.
Claim No. 39.
Claimant's name George Hempleman.
Address Peraki Bay.
Natives Names from whom Purchased or Obtained.Tuhawaika (or Bloody Jack) and other Native chiefs, with their tribes assembled (see original certificate forwarded), when a deed of sale was executed by the above chiefs and others. John Miller and William Simpson, examined as witnesses in the case, were present on the occasion (see proceedings pages 13, 14 and 15), when the Natives unanimously admitted the payment they received, and the alienation of the land in question, of which the following are the boundaries: —
Boundaries.From Mowry Harbour (as then called), situated on the northern extremity of the Ninety Mile Beach, between the Harbour and Flea Bay, and from thence as a base line extending fifteen miles inland, or across Banks Peninsula, that is to say, within a nearly square figure, three sides of which are fifteen miles in length, including Wangooloa, now called Akaroa Harbour. (See accompanying map).
Date of Alleged Purchase.Made in 1837, but completed 2nd November, 1839.
The payment made to the Natives for the land appears to have been a small trading vessel, named the Mary Ann, of about ten tons burden, previously employed in conveying whale oil and bone from New Zealand to Sydney, a quantity of tobacco, blankets, and other slops, etc. Estimated value of the whole at the time, £650.
Commissioner of Crown Lands Office, Akaroa, March 3rd, 1853. Sir,—As I have nearly concluded my investigation of all claims to land in Banks Peninsula, and as Mr Boys is proceeding as rapidly in the necessary surveys as the difficulties thrown in his and my way will admit of, I have to request, as there is now no necessity for delay in its final adjustment, you will bring the case of Mr George
before His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief. I am so dissatisfied with the report I made on the 19th March, 1852, upon Hempleman's claim, and more particularly with what I then recommended to be done for him, that I beg they may be cancelled. And to this I conclude there can be no objection, as His Excellency has not as yet come to any decision as to his case. Therefore, in justice to him, I beg leave to forward another report and recommendation, which I hope will be approved of by His Excellency. As I may now say that all the claims but Mr Hempleman's to lands in Banks Peninsula have been satisfied, I have also to request, in order to obviate the necessity of Mr Boys returning to Akaroa, that I may be authorised to employ him surveying the lands to be appropriated to Mr Hempleman, so that I may be enabled to make out Crown grants of them for him; and, in doing so, I shall take care that there be reserved for town purposes the whole of the available lands in French Farm Bay, and any other lands I may consider necessary for Government or other purposes, such as Native reserves, etc. As to the latter, I have been anxiously expecting to hear from you 1 shall, however, be glad to know as soon as possible if His Excellency would wish me to prevent Mr Hempleman from selecting any of the lands which Mr Godley, though he knew they were subject to claims or contracts to be fulfilled, has conveyed to Canterbury colonists and others, not only in Akaroa, but also in other parts of Banks Peninsula, which are within the block purchased by Mr Hempleman from the Natives. You are aware that not-withstanding Mr Godley's conveyance of it to Mr Watson, he (Mr Hempleman) still keeps possession of Peraki Bay, and of which, I conclude, he is, along with other lands, to have a Crown grant. This being done, of course the remainder of Banks Peninsula which is not disposed of will be at the disposal of the Canterbury Association. —Yours, etc., Hemple- man Hempleman , Commissioner Crown Lands. James CampbellThe Hon. the Colonial Secretary, Wellington. P.S.—I think it advisable now to inform you that soon after I had the honour of receiving your letter of the 26th January last, having no hopes of Captain Simeon making any communication to me, I considered it would be best that I should write myself to him on the subject of it. I forward a copy of my letter to him, and I beg you will acquaint His Excellency that I shall as soon as ever I am able, make known to you the result of the efforts I shall make, in order if possible to make an effort to affect an arrangement with Captain Simeon. But I do not see, in the present state of the Canterbury Association's affairs, what he can do for the colonists I, however, feel myself by the task assigned me, both most responsibly and unpleasantly situated.
, James Campbell
Commissioner of Crown Lands.Report.The Commissioner has the honour to report for the information of His Excellency the Governor in Chief that, having carefully considered what is contained in the foregoing proceedings, and the evidence taken in the claim No. 39, he is of opinion that the said George Hempleman made a
bona fidepurchase from the Native chiefs, whose names are attached to the deed of sale, forwarded here-with, and their tribes assembled, of the tract of land, the boundaries of which are given on the other side.Recommendation.And the Commissioner therefore respectfully begs to recommend, in accordance with the 6th clause of the Land Claims Ordinance, that a Crown grant may be given to George Hempleman of two thousand and six hundred and fifty acres of the land situated within the block which he purchased from the Natives. And it is further recommended that George Hempleman should only be allowed to
select the above extent of land in such parts of the said block as may be approved of by the Commissioner. James Campbell ,
Commissioner of Crown Lands.No. 39. George Hempleman.
Acres 2650, the extent of land which, under the 6th clause of the Land Claims Ordinance, the Commissioners are authorised to recommend to be allowed to a claimant.
Title.Purchased from Tuhawaiki and other Native chiefs, with their tribes assembled, when a deed of sale was executed by the said chiefs and others, and when the Natives unanimously admitted the payment they received and the alienation of the lands, of which the following are the boundaries:—"From Mowry Harbour, as then called, situated at the northern extremity of Ninety Mile Beach, between that harbour and Flea Bay, and from thence as a base extending 15 miles inland, across Banks Peninsula, that is to say within a nearly square figure, three sides of which are each 15 miles in length, including Wangooloa, now called Akaroa Harbour."
Date.Purchase was made in 1837, but not completed until 1839. Eequires Crown grant.
Description of Land selected by George Hempleman.
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Peraki Bay | 500 acres | |
Flea Bay | 500 acres | |
Land unappropriated by the Crown, situated between German and Robinson's Bays, being within Akaroa Harbour | 650 acres | |
Land unappropriated by the Crown, situated at the head of what is properly called Akaroa Harbour, and extending on to and including what is usually called Barry's Bay | 1000 acres | |
Total | 2650 acres. | N.B.—The Crown grants could not be filled up at Akaroa before the Commissioners and Government Surveyor had to leave Banks Peninsula, the winter being too far advanced, and the weather become too inclement for surveying operations. The surveys, however, can be made in the spring, or as soon as the weather will permit.
, James Campbell
Commissioner of Crown Lands.Copy of Report on No 39.The Commissioner has the honour to refer His Excellency the Governor in-Chief to the investigation, report upon and favourable recommendation as to George Hempleman's claim, which he forwarded on the 19th March, 1852, and also to his communication, dated the 3rd March last, upon the subject. To that communication, as also to the Commissioner's whole proceedings in the investigation of George Hempleman's claim, he begs again to refer His Excellency. The Commissioner has also the honour to refer to opinion, dated 15th December, 1852, given by Judge Stephen, the original forwarded to the Civil (Colonial?) Secretary, as to George Hempleman's case, in which His Honour says, "Unquestionably the contract referred to by you" (in the case submitted to the Judge for his opinion, a copy of it also forwarded to the Civil Secretary), "if confined by the Commissioner's reports, would take the land as found by the report out of the block granted by the Crown to the Canterbury Association."
The Commissioner having carefully considered what is contained in his proceedings above alluded to, and the evidence taken by him in support of claim No. 39, he is of opinion that the claimant made a
bona fidepurchase from the Native chiefs, whose names were affixed to the deed of sale, in the presence of their assembled tribes, of the tract of land thrown in the said claim, and the Commissioner begs respectfully to recommend, in accordance with the 6th clause of the Lands Claim Ordinance, that Crown grants should be given to claimant of two thousand sixhundred and fifty acres (2650 acres) of the land situated within the block which the claimant purchased from the Natives, as described in claim No. 39. , James Campbell
Commissioner Crown Lands, etc.
George Hempleman was not at all pleased with Mr. Commissioner Campbell's report. He considered that he had fairly bought the fifteen square miles for which he dealt with Bloody Jack and the other chiefs, and that the Government should give him a Crown grant. He went to Wellington shortly after the report was made public to press his claim, and he refused to accept the 2650 acres in compensation. The Government, as a matter of course, stood by the report of their Commissioner. In the meantime the Government gave instructions to have the 2650 acres surveyed, and Mr Boys was sent instructions to that effect, as will be seen by the following letter:—
Crown Lands Office, Christchurch. August 23rd, 1853. Sir,—As i am desirous of not interfering with surveys which it may soon be requisite to make up the country, and regarding which I have fully communicated with the Government, I have to request that at your earliest convenience you will be so good as to arrange that the lands shown beneath, situated in Banks Peninsula, may be surveyed for Mr. George Hempleman, of Akaroa, for whom Crown grants of them will as usual be prepared.
Directions will be given to Mr. Hempleman to attend to and point out where, within the localities specified, he may select in blocks the extent of land pointed out, but, of course, you will take care that he is not allowed to interfere with or encroach upon any lands for which you are aware that Crown grants have already been recommended by me to be given to other persons, and I beg you will confine him to
Government regulations as regards frontages and all necessary roads, etc., to be reserved for Crown and public convenience.
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No. 1—Peraki Bay | 500 acres | |
No. 2—Flat Bay | 500 acre | |
No. 3—Lands unappropriated by the Crown, situated between German and Robinson's Bay, and situated in the Akaroa Harbour | 650 acre | |
No. 4—Lands unappropriated by the Crown, situated at the head of what is properly called Akaroa Bay | 500 acre | |
No. 5—Lands unappropriated by the Crown, situated in what is usually called Barry's Bay and, if necessary, extending from thence towards No. 4. | 500 acre | |
Total | 2650 acres | The whole of these lands having been saved from any proceedings whatever of the Canterbury Association, under their first Act of Parliament, 14th August, 1850, you will pay no attention in making the necessary surveys to conveyances of any portions of them to the Church, etc, or to individuals, by the agents of the Canterbury Association.—Yours, etc.,
, James Campbell
Commissioner.John C. Boys, Esq.,
Government Surveyor.
Before Mr. Boys, however, had time to put the work in hand he was recalled to Wellington, and the matter was left in the hands of Mr. Justin Aylmer, the late Resident Magistrate, who was then Mr Boys' assistant. Mr. Aylmer, however, resigned almost immediately afterwards, and, after some negotiations, Hempleman is said to have signed an agreement that he would take 250 acres where Mr.
Wellington, Nov. 16th, 1876. Sir George Grey. Sir,—I have the honour to hand you enclosed herein copies of two letters relating to Mr. George Hempleman's claim in Banks Peninsula. The one from Mr. James Campbell to Mr. J. C. Boys states, as you will perceive, the whereabouts of the estate then in the possession of the claimant; the other, written by J.E.Fitzgerald, Esq., and directed to your Excellency, is not very correct in every particular. The writer states that the Commissioner neglected or refused to examine certain individuals, whose evidence would materially effect the case for the prosecution. Such was not the case; nearly all, if not quite all, were examined, including several English and Native witnesses. He also states that the inhabitants of Akaroa sent in a petition against the decision of the Government. Four of the signatures were Messrs Aylmer, Watson, Doyley and D. Watkins. Mr. Golden, Collector H.M. Customs, first started the petition, and the four above named persons possessing fifty acre sections in the town of Akaroa, were afraid that Mr. Hempleman would select their land, hence the petition. Mr. Fitzgerald also states that the claimant was at that time reeling about Christchurch intoxicated. Mr. Hempleman arrived in Christchurch late in the evening, and left again early next morning, allowing very
little time to make himself known in that manner. When Mr. J. C. Boys received instructions from James Campbell, Esq., to lay out the land for Mr Hempleman, he at once made arrangements with the claimant to proceed with it. Unfortunately as soon as arrangements were made, Mr. Boys had to leave for Wellington, and so it was put in the hands of the assistant surveyor, Mr. Aylmer, son of the before mentioned person. He immediately resigned his position, and so the matter fell through. The next thing the claimant heard was that he was to receive 250 acres instead. The claimant also signed the requisition under protest. Sincerely trusting that justice will at last be administered.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your very obedient servant,, G. Hempleman
Sir George replied to this letter from Kawau on December 5th, stating that it was not a matter for him to decide, and referring Hempleman to the Government.
From his earliest residence on the Peninsula, in the year 1835, up till some years after the arrival of the Canterbury Pilgrims, George Hempleman kept a very minute diary of all his doings. A great deal of it consists of unimportant matters, being a record of the everyday work of the men and the state of the weather. There are occasional entries, however, with regard to the squabbles with tbe Natives and his dealings with them, that are of great interest.
He seems to have had a great dislike and contempt for the Maoris. He kept several Native servants, who were practically in a state of slavery, and he used to ill-treat these so badly that the severe thrashings he administered reached the ears of the Government, and on the visit of the Britomart to Akaroa, Captain Stanley, who was in command of that vessel, ordered him on board with the whole of his dependants, and read an official letter to him, warning him against his proceedings, and informing
Hempleman lived in Piraki for many years, but afterwards removed to German Bay. The last few years of his life were spent in the hospital, this matter having been arranged by the Government for his greater comfort. Whilst there he met with an accident, which was undoubtedly the primary cause of his death, for his iron frame would otherwise have enabled him to continue his conflict with the Government up to the present time. It appears that a fellow resident at the hospital named McGregor, in a fit of insanity, seized hold of old Hempleman, pulled him out of bed, and threw him on the fender, giving him a severe shaking, and inflicting other severe injuries. From this time Hempleman never fully recovered, the last days of his life being occupied in preparing his case, which the Government had arranged should be heard before the Middle Island Native Land Purchases Royal Commission,
Hempleman was a remarkable looking man. Firm determination was expressed in every lineament, from his prominent nose to his iron chin. His frame was a fitting adjunct to such a head, being large, square, and bony, showing a great power of endurance. He was well known all over the provincial district, and was very genial, being fond of company, and never tired of repeating his stories of bygone days. He was very exact in these narrations, seldom varying in any important point. Like most old whalers, he was fond of a glass, and occasionally exceeded, his favourite beverage being rum. He was enthusiastically fond of the sport of pig hunting, and his gaunt figure was usually accompanied by a pair of brindled bull and mastiffs and & long stick. When overcome he lay down for a sleep These dogs would not allow a soul to approach, and sometimes stopped people from passing along the road. One strange peculiarity of his was, that he had totally forgotten his own language, not being able to understand a single word of German, which he must have solely spoken till he was twenty five or twenty six years of age. He was continually travelling to Wellington during the session, to urge his claims, and his figure was nearly as well known in the lobbies of the House as that of the Premier. The Hon. Mr. Mantell was an earnest advocate of Hempleman's claims, and took a great deal of trouble in the matter. During Hempleman's visits to Wellington he used to spend a few days with his friends in Christchurch on the way, and during one of these visits, while resting on one of the parapets of Victoria bridge, he fell into the river, and was locked up for attempted suicide. The police however, soon discovered that Hempleman was not the sort of man to swallow any quantity of cold water
The compiler has had placed at his disposal a number of log books, which comprise the diary of George Hempleman. They are yellow with age, dating from November, 1835, at which time Captain Hempleman sailed from Sydney to Banks Peninsula on a whaling voyage in the brig Bee. It was on the 29th November that the brig left Pinch Gut, where she had been lying, and, after a short anchorage at Watson's Bay, finally cleared the Heads, a terrible thunderstorm from the southward prevailing at the time No damage, however, was done, and the vessel got clear of the coast without mishap. The usual events of a voyage followed, but on December 20 a poor woman who had stowed herself in the fore-hold "for love of Mr. Wright's nephew," as it is quaintly put, was discovered. She was, of course, sent back to Sydney by the first opportunity, which happened to be in the whaling barque called the Governor Bourke, with 1200 barrels of oil aboard.
Toere were many vessels spoken, and most of them seem to have had a lot of oil aboard, showing how plentiful whales were in those days The Bee, however, seems to have been a very leaky craft, for they had to pump ship every two or three hours. On Monday, December 21, they got a supply of vegetables from Lord Howe's Island. On January 11, 1836, the first whale was captured. A sperm whale that yielded thirty-one barrels was caught on January 25, but the leak kept increasing, and on the 30th they tried to discover where the water came in by breaking out the run, but were unsuccessful.
On Saturday, the 6th of February, the East Cape was made, and the ship hove to for Natives to come aboard with pigs and potatoes. She got a good lot, and then stood away to the southward. On Wednesday, the 17th, to quote the log, "Strong breezes and squally. Made and shortened sail as required, and lay-to till daylight; then stood in for the harbour, to come to an anchor in 4½ fathoms water, clay bottom." The harbour was in Banks
On Friday, July 15, they finished their shore works, and all hands were employed getting ready the vessel for sea, and on the 16th they sailed. They got a number of whales outside, and returned to the harbour to try them out At length, on Sunday, the 24th of the same month, the vessel put to sea. The voyage back to Sydney was very uneventful and quiet, and on the 9th of August the pilot came on board, and the same evening the good brig Bee, with her valuable freight, dropped anchor in Sydney Harbour.
The records in Hempleman's diary of the events of 1839 are very unsatisfactory. There are bare statements, no doubt intelligible to those who knew all about it but to us, living so long after, many bear no coherent meaning. Some of the most interesting passages in the diary refer to the murder of some northern Natives, who came from Queen Charlotte's Sound, and who were working with Captain Hempleman. It appears that there were two boys
"Saturday, October 26.—Fine weather throughout. At 10 a.m. one boat's crew to the river in search of provisions; at 2 p.m. one out fishing; carpenter employed as yesterday.
"Sunday, October 27.—Fine weather throughout. People employed shooting in the bush, one boat's crew at the river.
"Monday, October 28.—Fine weather throughout. At 9 a.m. the captain went out fishing and returned at 6 p.m. with a boat's crew from the river, who brought a good supply of pigeqns; carpenter employed as yesterday.
"Tuesday, October 29.—Fine weather throughout One boat out fishing, but returned shortly the wind being too strong, carpenter employed as yesterday.
"Wednesday, October 30.—Strong winds throughout
"Thursday, October 31 - Fine weather throughout. At 10 a.m the boat's crew heard the report of guns up the river, and found it to be two Maoris from Bloody Jack, who was in Oashore Bay, with fifteen boats. At 11 a.m. walked up the hill to Maori Harbor, where the boat was hauled up, when were greatly surprised at seeing about one hundred natives, who came with the intention of killing the boy Jacky, which they did in the most barbarous manner, when having got to Maori Harbor, they refused us our boat, we then walked over the hill to the next bay, where they kept us as prisoners, carpenter employed as yesterday.
"Friday, November 1—Fine weather throughout. The river party still as prisoners, being in great suspense, not knowing whether they were to live or die, still kept as prisoners; carpenter employed as yesterday.
"Saturday, November 2—Fine weather throughout. This day the river party were escorted to Peracy Bay by Bloody Jack's boats, who cause ashore at 10 a.m. and hauled their boats up, on their first landing, they discovered the other boy Tommy when in the act of killing him a chief named Tyroa prevented them by claiming the boy, and shortly after came upon the captain for payment for the boy, which was a new six oared boat, which the captain consented to, knowing it to be the only way of saving the boy's life; carpenter stowed away in the bush.
"Sunday, November 3.—Fine weather throughout. Bloody Jack and his crew still ashore, who asked the big boat as payment for the place, which the captain gave, with three new sails; carpenter still in the bush.
"Monday, November 4,—Fine weather. At 10 a.m. Bloody Jack and his gang started for Wangaloa; at 11 a m. one boat out fishing; at half past ten a.m. carpenter came out of the bush. This day took two white men on, who came with gang from Otago.
"Tuesday, November 5.—Fine weather throughout. One boat out all day fishing; carpenter employed at Tonguers boat.
"Wednesday, November 6.—Fine weather throughout One boat out all day fishing; carpenter employed as yesterday.
"Thursday, November 7.—Strong winds from the N. One boat out fishing; at 8 a m. saw five of Bloody Jack's boats pass the heads bound to the southward; carpenters and sawyers at work."
Such is the brief record existing of a tragedy that was a favourite subject for discussion amongst many of the Peninsula veterans.
Some of the Akaroa residents probably remember a wall-eyed old Maori who lived at Wainui twenty years ago. Among my notes I find the account of his imprisonment at Piraki, as told me by his cousin, the late Henare Pereita, of Kaiapoi. Though somewhat similar to a story already given in the published extracts from the Piraki log, it relates to quite another event. It is interesting as illustrating the merciless manner in which the managers of whaling stations sometimes behaved in those far off times, when they were obliged to take the law into their own hands. The story is as follows:—
"While I was living with my friends at Onuku, in Akaroa Harbour, I heard that a relative of ours, named Puaka, had been seized by the pakeha chief (Hempleman) of the whaling station at Piraki, and put in an empty oil cask and headed up. In vain I begged Tukiauau and Mantai to go and demand his release; for some reason or another they would not, so I went with Mohi Patu and our white man Jim to attempt to obtain it myself. We were all rather afraid about our errand, as the pakeha was known to be a hot tempered man, and we were not quite sure of escaping without punishment, if our interference aroused his anger, as he had forty white men around him ready to do what he told them. On reaching the station we sent a message to say that we wished to speak to the chief. While waiting for the interview, we got into conversation with the 'hands' about the place, and learnt some particulars from them about our friend's capture. Presently we heard calls for us to go up to the house. We went up feeling very nervous and uncomfortable. Hempleman asked our business, and when we told him that we wanted to see his Maori prisoner, greatly to our surprise, he at once consented. Taking up a hammer that was lying near his feet, he walked up to a great cask that stood a few feet from his house; and knocked off the hoops round the
In this and following numbers an account is given of the foundation of the French Colony in Akaroa, and the causes that led to it. The subject is a most interesting one, and so it has been endeavoured to procure information from every available source. This number is taken from" Odd Chapters from New Zealand History, origina'ly published in the New Zealander, and there entitled
"Though, perchance, somewhat out of chronological order, the attempt to form a French settlement in the Middle Island may follow, pertinently, in these papers, the narration of the intention to found a semi French kingdom in these Islands. That the French Government had serious intentions of establishing colonies in the South Pacific, and a penal colony in New Zealand, is apparent from tbe angry debates in the French Chamber of Deputies on the 27th, 28th and 29th May, 1844, when M. Guizot, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, declared that after 'repeatedly repudiating the sovereignty of New Zealand, the British Government was induced by the proceedings of a rich and powerful company (the New Zealand Company) to adopt measures by which the acquisition of that sovereignty had been completed, at a time when vessels from France were on the voyage to New Zealand for the like purpose.' M. Guizot was, however misinformed, as the sovereignty was proclaimed prior to the despatch of the vessels mentioned.
"In August, 1838, a Captain L'Anglois, the master of a French whaler, purchased, he asserted, from the Natives on Banks Peninsula, a block of land defined in the claim as follows: —' All Banks Peninsula, with the exception of the Bay of Hikuraki and Oihioa on the south, and Sandy Beach north of Port Coopar; the supposed contents 30,000 acres.' The block included the whole of the head of the Akaroa Harbour and the site of the present town probably not executed but of this there is no certainty—until the return of Captain L'Anglois and M. de Belligny in 1840, after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi; neither was there any evidence, either Native or European, that such a purchase had been completed in 1838, save that of one George Fleuret, who deposed to the belief 'that an agreement was then made by Captain L'Anglois for the purchase of some quantity of land. Fleuret was desirous of remaining on the Peninsula when the Cachelot (the vessel in which he was serving) went away; but on the captain's remonstrance with him that he could not stay there alone, and that he (the captain) intended to return, he continued the voyage, and returned with the other immigrants in the Comte de Paris in August, 1840. on his consenting to return on his first voyage, the captain showed him a 'paper,' which he said was a contract or agreement, signed by a native named Kikarori for the disposal of, or promise to dispose of, land to him (Captain L'Anglois) upon his return to New Zealand.' He also added in, his evidence that he saw the captain 'give some pantaloons and cloaks to the native Kikarori, and others, which he understood was on account of the payment he had promised the Natives for land.' The full amount of the purchase money, in king, was to have been £240, of which amount only £6 was paid by the captain, in 1838. Upon the captain's return to France, he ceded his right and title to his reputed purchase to a company, consisting 'of two mercantile houses at Nantz, two at Bordeaux, and three gentlemen of Paris, who formed a company cailed the Nanto Bordelaise Compagnie, reserving to himself an interest to the amount of one fifth in the said company, and giving up the deed of sale from the Natives, as his subscription of 6000 francs to become a partner to the amount of one fifth in the company.' There is a certified copy of this deed, which is of some length, to be found in the proceedings of the New Zealand Company, but it carries no Native signature or mark, as would have been the case New Zealand Journal in February of the same year, prior to the departure of Captain L'Anglois on his second voyage, remarks: 'If the French Government should send her political prisoners to British New Zealand, let it be clearly understood that they are free the instant they set foot on British land. France can exercise no jurisdiction over them there, and supposing the projet should ever ripen into action, which is very improbable—should the sons of France accept the hand of friendship, which we are quite sure will be held out to them, the New Zealand community will be the better of their peculiar intelligence and skill.' This, it should be remembered, was a comment on an article in the Journal du Havre on the question whether the Middle Island was a suitable place for the deportation of criminals, the company having agreed to cede to the Government a portion of their acquired territory for this purpose, it being in 'an excellent position for defence as well as climate,' The company had a capital of one million francs (£42,000), a sixth of which was only paid up, but the company had agreed to cede to the French Government one fifth of its territory 'to establish a penal settlement.' Accordingly the ship Comte de Paris sailed from Rochefort, commanded by Captain L'Anglois. Louis Phillips was an interested party in the company, and gave 'a grant of money and picked men from the Royal Navy as a subsidy to the expedition The immigrants, who were 63 in number, although stated in the Journal des Debats to number 100, comprising 30 men, 11 women, and 22 children, complained while on board, and after arrival of the treatment they received on their passage-as other immigrants have
"Five days previous to the arrival of the Comte de Paris H.M.S. Britomart arrived at the Peninsula, and took possession of the island in the name of the Crown: whether legally or otherwise is a moot point, as the French flag had been planted on the Peninsula in 1838 by Commodore Cuille, of the Heroine. Three days later the French frigate L'Aube, commanded by Commodore Lavaud. arrived, and on August the 13th, two days Iater, the immigrants also, having been on board from the latter end of February. Among the stores brought were six long 24 pounders, which, upon Captain Stanley's remonstrating with Commodore Lavaud, were not allowed to be landed. Mr. Robinson, who came from the Bay of Islands in another vessel, was left there as magistrate, and from the Gazatte we learn that the Commodoro was particularly hospitable, and offered to send his carpenter on shore to build a house for Mr. Robinson,, and insisted upon that gentleman living on board the L'Aube during her stay in the waters of the Peninsula, which offer, of course, was gratefully accepted until the completion of the magisterial residence. On the 19th the immigrants landed in 'a sheltered, well-chosen part of the bay, where tyey could not interfere with any one,' and commenced, with the characteristic industry of the French workman, to Constitutionnel of the following year, commenting on the progress of the Colony, stated that one of the colonists, who had planted himself a league from Akaroa, had, with the aid of his wife, from two acres and a half of land, cleared in five months 1500f. by the sale of vegetables. The English inhabitants of the Peninsula, at the time of the landing of the French immigrants, amounted to 84 adults, and their child ren, so from this source the 1500f. would probably partially come. At the end of the year the immigrants had not procured any stock, but were living on preserved and salt meats, with what vegetables they could get from their small gardens,' while the commodore of the L'Aube had commenced building a store for them to protect their property from the weather. It must be remembered that the frigate stayed at Akaroa for a lengthy period, and the Commodore thereby arrogated to himself the domination of the settlement, but avowed most distinctly to Captain Hobson that he 'disclaimed any national intrusion on the part of his Government, but he supported the claims of the company as private individuals, asserting this to be the only bona fide purchase of that district which had been made from the Natives.' It was at this time (November, 1841) that the Governor made the proposal that the company should be given similar terms to the New Zealand Company, and put in possession of a block of land, in proportion to their outlay of capital, in the extreme northern district of the North Island 'in the district, of Kataia, where there is a good harbour, with an abundance of fine land with an undulating surface, we 1 adapted for vineyards' This proposal was not adopted, and early in the following year (1842) Monsieur Maillères arrived in England to make arrangements with the Government, with a view to the settlement of the claim and the company's title; when the 'Colonial Laud and Emigration Commissioners 'found that an expenditure by the company of £11,685 had been incurred, including, of course, the subsidy obtained from Louis Philippe. In 1845 Lord Stanley
"This paper and narrative cannot be better concluded than by quoting a paragraph from Mr Mackay, in his second volume on Southern Native affairs:—' The New Zealand Company purchased the claims of the Nantes Bordelaise Company, and, in virtue of other subsequent arrangements, whatever lands the New Zealand Company possessed have reverted to the Crown; but through all these proceedings the original question as to what extent the Native title has been extinguished by the French Company has never been decided.'
"After the cession of the territory to the New Zealand Company, the French Government offered to take the emigrants free of charge to Tahiti, and give them the same amount of property as they possessed in New Zealand, but they all declined the offer."
As a fitting narrative to follow the last, the compiler has selected the following account of the French settlement, principally written from information furnished by Mr Wæckerlie, one of the original settlers, who came in the Comte de Paris.
About the year 1820, the adventurous seamen who had hitherto captured the whale in the Northern Ocean, found that the fish were fast decreasing in number, and turned longing eyes to the vast waters of the South Pacific, which voyagers had told them swarmed not only with many varieties of the whale tribe found in the north, hut also with the huge sperm, whose oil was of great value, as well as the spermaceti found in its head. A few soon ventured, and their good reports and great success induced many to follow their example. At first the Cape of Good Hope was chosen as the centre of the operations of those daring men, whose lives were in continual peril, but whose profits we r
About 1835, before the first representative of England (Captain Hobson) had taken up his residence in Auckland, an adventurous French mariner, named Captain L'Anglois, came on a whaling cruise to these seas, Amongst the many harbours that he visited was the beautiful Bay of Akaroa, the perfect safety of whose sheltered waters went straight to the heart of the rough seaman, after the fierce gales he had encountered in the stormy southern seas. The luxuriant vegetation that everywhere fringed the inlets, showed that the soil was of exceeding fruitfulness; the mighty pines that towered above their meaner fellows gave promise of a vast supply of timber; whilst the innumerable kakas, pigeons, and other native birds, that woke the echoes of the bush with their harmonies and discords, and the fish that swarmed in the waters of the bay, showed that an abundant supply of nutritious food would always be obtainable. So charmed was Captain L'Anglois with the tranquility of the spot, that, with a true Frenchman's love of France, he coveted it for his country, and determined to found a colony on this scene of primeval loveliness. It was in the year 1838 that he first had an opportunity of taking the premier steps in this direction, by purchasing all that part of the Peninsula from the Maoris which lies between Piraki and the Akaroa Heads. Mr Wæckerlie did not know the name of the chief from whom Captain L'Anglois purchased the land, and the price paid for it, but doubtless the amount, was a comparatively small one, (See pages 80 and 81.)
In 1838 Captain L'Anglois returned to France, and on his arrival he told some of his countrymen of the purchase he had made, and the result was the formation of a company to colonize this estate. The company appears to have been encouraged by the French Government, for an old ship of war called the Comte de Paris was lent to Captain L'Anglois to take out any persons who might be desirous of settling on his land, and another armed ship,
The start was a most unfortunate one, for the steamer that towed the vessel out missed the channel, and the Comte de Paris stuck in the mud, and had to be lightened Akaroa Mail office used to stand (now the property of Mr Joseph Hammond). The morning of the 17th was calm and beautiful, and the colonists were pleasantly awakened at the first dawn of day by the notes of innumerable birds.
A strange circumstance had been noticed by the new arrivals in coming up the harbour. When the Comte de Paris was towed past Green Point, mar where Mrs. J. C. Buckland's residence now stands, all on board saw a small group of men surrounding a flagstaff, from which flew gaily in the morning breeze" the Union Jack of Old England." Such a sight naturally surprised and disturbed the new comers, but they were told it meant nothing, but was merely a piece of vain glory on the part of two or three Englishmen who happened to be whaling in the vicinity. The real facts of the case, however, were by no means so unimportant as was represented, It appears that Commodore Lavaud, on his way from England, touched at Auckland, and that whilst his vessel was lying in the calm waters of the Waitemata, Captain Hobson, who then represented British interests in the north, though New Zealand had not been made an English Colony, entertained them right royally. It appears that in an unguarded moment the Commodore let out the secret of the French expedition to Akaroa, and what was more injudicious, spoke with rapture of the beauty of Akaroa
It has been previously related that a Mr. Green resided, when the French colonists arrived, at the point near Mrs. J. C. Buckland's, where the British flag was seen flying by the new arrivals. Mr. Green was in charge of some six or eight head of cattle belonging, to Mr W B. Rhodes. Mr Rhodes was well acquainted with New Zealand, and had numerous transactions, both with the earliest settlers and the Natives. Some six months before the French arrived he had been in Wellington, and from thence he went to Sydney, then the most settled part of Australasia, and had purchased a number of the best cattle he could procure, which be brought over in a vessel belonging to him, and placed in various localities under the charge of persons in his employment. Mr Rhodes was one of those who, at a very early period, recognised the vast capabilities of these islands, and foresaw in the time to come they would support a large population, and his foresight was deservedly rewarded later on by the amassing of a very large fortune. These cattle were not allowed to be sold at any price, and were simply allowed to increase as fast as possible. The cows were not milked, the calves running with them, and one can imagine with what great longing for milk, beef and butter they were viewed by the colonists, who at that time had not a single bead of their own, Mr. Green did something else besides looking after the cattle—he used to purchase any grog he could from the whaling vessels that visited the port, and, as there was no hotel, it was a standing Joke with the colonists to say that they were going to have a drink of milk at Mr. Green's, when they went there searching for something far more exhilarating, In a couple of years Mr. Green left Mr. Rhodes to start an hotel, and was succeeded by Mr. Reid, and a short time after Mr. Joseph Rhodes came to superintend the place, and also another in Flea Bay, where some cattle had been placed. He sold the first cow, which realised the enormous sum (for an ordinary milker) of £43. Such was the first start of dairy farming in
In 1841, M. St. Croix de Belligny went to Wellington about matters connected with the new settlement, and to get a supply of money. Towards the end of the following year he went to Sydney, and brought back a bull and ten or twelve cows, and also one little entire horse, the first that ever set foot in Akaroa. This last excited the extreme admiration of the Maoris, and they coveted him exceedingly. This was rather a good thing for the French Association, for the third and last payment for the land was then due to the Natives, and the horse was made a part of it. It may here be mentioned that the payment for the land was nearly all in kind, very little money passing. The Comte de Paris brought out a large number of gaudy old faded uniforms, gold lace, cocked hats, and other trumpery rubbish, which was eagerly accepted as "utu" for the land by ihe unsophiscated" aboriginals. One must not forget to mention, however, that in this last payment was included a small schooner, built by Mr. Sinclair, for which the Association gave that gentleman two hundred acres in Pigeon Bay, in that inlet now known as Holmes Bay, where the property of Mr. Holmes is at present situated. M. de Belligny, like Mr Rhodes, let his cattle go on increasing at first, but on leaving the Colony in 1845, he sold them at the lowest price he could possibly afford, which was from £20 to £25 per head, and very glad indeed were the settlers to get them. The colonists, however, had had both milk, butter and beef before this, though they had to pay a good price for them. The first steer calved in Akaroa by M. de Belligny's cows was killed in 1844, some eighteen months after the cattle arrived from Sydney. Mr. Waeckerle was the butcher, and every pound of the beef brought 2s 6d per pound, and more would have been gladly given, for fresh beef is never so well appreciated as by those who have been years without it. The first milk and butter came from Pigeon Bay. Messrs Hay and Sinclair came over to that place in 1841 from Wellington, and brought some cattle with them, and
Mr. Green was the first hotelkeeper. After he left Mr. Rhodes he built a commodious hotel at Green Point, and procured a license, The building was a substantial one, 40 feet x 30 feet, and the timber for it was cut by Mr. Waeckerle. It was only one storey high, but most conveniently arranged, and was very well patronised, more especially when a whaler came in, when there were" high jinks" indeed. The building was afterwards bought by Mr. George Tribe, and taken by him to Lyttelton, and placed on Norwich Quay, where it was burnt down in 1854 or 1855. After selling the building, Mr Green purchased a piece of land from M. Belligny, agent for the French Association, and put up another and larger hotel in the more central position now occupied by T. E. Taylor's Buildings, just opposite the present Government wharf. As soon, however, as circumstances warranted it, there was a French hotel, M. de Belligny's servant being the proprietor. The building he put up for that purpose was on Mr. Louis Vangioni's section behind the Akaroa Mail office, end, like Mr. Green's, his enterprise was a most successful one.
There was, of course, no grain of any kind grown the first year or two, and the colonists were dependent on their supplies from outside sources. They were supplied in this manner. Once a year the French man of war on the station visited either Valparaiso or Sydney, and came back with what was required. On the first of these trips, in 1841. the vessel was delayed by contrary winds, and the colonists were in consequence reduced to sore straits for flour, rice and other farinaceous food, Tea, too, was at a premium, but the latter was certainly a luxury, and many supplied its place with the outawhai or manuka. Their potatoes, too, were not yet fit for digging, so that they really were inconvenienced, though, of course, there
The same frigate did not always stop on the station. Two years after another frigate, commanded by Captain du Boissy, arrived to relieve the L'Aube. It was optional with Commodore Lavaud whether he should go Home in his own or take charge of the new arrival, but he liked Akaroa, and chose the latter course. Two years later, in 1844, Commodore Berard arrived in another vessel, He was the senior officer to Commodore Lavaud, and so could do as he pleased, and, although Lavaud wished to remain, he sent him Home. Commodore Lavaud does not appear
When the settlers arrived. there were not many Maoris in the neighbourhood of Akaroa. It is true there were pahs at Onuku, Wainui and Tikao Bay, but these had only some fifty or sixty inhabitants altogether, and they were a most weak harmless lot, whose leading vice appeared to be the habit of begging incessantly for everything they saw. In 1843, however, there were a good number in Port Levy, Pigeon Bay, Little River and Kaiapoi, and it was then first reported that they were going to unite and make an attack upon the infant Colony during the absence of the frigate at Valparaiso for stores. Of course, with the man of war in harbour, the colonists knew they were quite safe, but they did not by any means like the idea of being attacked whilst she was absent. However, one thing was certain, the vessel must go for stores, and so the best possible arrangements were made for defence in case of an attack being made. A garden had been established at French Farm by Commodore Lavaud for the growth of vegetables for bis crew, and here fifteen or sixteen sailors were left under the command of a quartermaster. Some five or six more men, all that could possibly be spared from the ship, were stationed at Akaroa. Their precautions, however, were not confined to this, for it was determined to erect three blockhouses as places of retreat in case the Maoris came. The sites for these
These blockhouses were never used but once, and that was during the absence of the ship, when the news was brought that some 250 Natives were coming from the north to attack them. The rumour spread rapidly, and the more cautious removed their wives and children and more precious goods into the blockhouses, and slept there at night. Sentinels were also posted to give notice of the Maoris' approach, and the men were drilled and armed with a carbine, cutlass and two pistols each At last the word came that from 60 to 100 strange Maoris were actually on their way from Pigeon Bay All the people then living in German Bay went into the blockhouse, and when the Maoris found them so well prepared, they of course announced that they came as friends only. they passed on and went into Akaroa, meeting the leaders of the colonists near the present site of the police station. They announced that they came not as foes, but as
There was one pleasant custom observed during these early days, which was, that every family gave a feast to the rest of the colonists annually. These meetings were pleasant ones indeed; whilst the older colonists related their experiences to each other, the younger danced and made love in just the same manner as they do now-a days. At the end of the five years the colonists all got their five
There were sometimes disputes between the French officers, and one of these culminated in a duel, which was fought in the present Lavaud street, Akaroa, in the end of 1845 or beginning of 1846. The combatants were the Commissioner and Dr. Renaut. the doctor in chief of the French man of war Le Rhin, which Commodore Berard commanded. The people on shore were of opinion that something extraordinary must be going on, for the combatants, accompanied by their friends, went round the place early on the morning of the duel, discharging every little liability due to the townspeople. The duel was fought on the sandy beach where the Akaroa Recreation Ground has since been reclaimed. The distance (25 paces) was carefully and solemnly measured by the seconds in the presence of a group of officers, and the weapons, which were pistols, were carefully loaded and presented to the duellists. Lots were then drawn for the first fire, and the Commissioner won. Taking a steady aim, he fired, but; the cap was defective, and did not ignite the priming, Dr. Renaut then raised his pistol and fired low. The bullet cut the trousers and grazed the right thigh of the Commissioner, but did no further damage. No doubt irritated by his narrow escape, the Commissioner called out angrily to reload, but the seconds declared that wounded honour was fully satisfied, and refused to allow the combat to proceed further. There was another circumstance which also tended to stop further hostilities. The Commodore was, of course, as well aware of what was going to take place as any officer in the Le Rhin, but etiquette forced him to appear unconscious, During the time the preparations for the duel were being made, he was pacing in front of the ol 1 Roman Catholic Church, at the back of the site of Mr. Kerridge's stables, but before they fired he stepped behind, so as not to see the duel. Directly he heard the shot, however, he hastened to the scene of the
For many years the story of the race down the coast from Auckland to Akaroa between the French and English has been declared to be a myth. It was well known locally that such was not the case, as there were people alive who remembered the whole occurrence, and the disappointment of the French, as described in the foregoing pages, when they found the British frigate in possession. However, absolute proof has been obtained since the last edition of the" Stories of Banks Peninsula" of the authenticity of the story. The tale encircles Akaroa with much historic interest, and it should be a matter of great pleasure to inhabitants that the monument at Green Point, Akaroa, is not a white elephant. Since the previous edition of this work Mr. Anson has bad the monument inscribed with the names of those who were instrumental in marking the spot in that manner, and Mr. E. E. Lelievre has offered to give £40 towards the purchase of the land on which the monument stands.
Some weeks ago, writes the London correspondent of the "Press," of October, 1909, I stated that certain documents which I had perused definitely settled most of the questions at issue between Mr. Johannes Andersen and Mr. C. Coleridge Farr with reference to the incident of the French occupation of Akaroa. There were two main questions unsettled. In the first place; Was Mr. Robinson's journal really a diary written at the time of the events? Secondly: Was the little drama at Akaroa in August, 1840, pre arranged between Lieutenant Governor Hobson and Commodore Lavaud? One is the contention of Mr. Farr, the other of Mr. Andersen. The answer to both now seems to be a distinct "No." What has been required throughout the argument to complete the
"Government House, Russell, Bay of Islandsa, 22nd July, 1840. Sir,—It being of the utmost importance that the authority of Her Majesty should be most unequivocally exercised throughout the remote parts of this colony, and more particularly in the Southern and Middle Islands, where, I understand, foreign influence and even interference is to be apprehended, I have the honour to request you to proceed immediately in H.M sloop under your command to those islands. On the subject of this commission I have to respect to request the most inviolable secrecy from all except your immediate superior officer, to whom it may be your duty to report your proceedings. The ostensible purpose of your cruise may appear to be the conveying of two magistrates to Port Nicholson, to whom I will elsewhere more particularly refer. The real object to which I wish particularly to call your attention is to defeat the movements of any foreign ship of war that may be engaged in establishing a settlement in any part of the coast of New Zealand. There are various rumours current that Captain Lavaud. of the French corvette L'Aube, now at anchor in this port, is
employed in the furtherance of designs such as I have before mentioned From some observations that fell from him, I discovered that his intention was to proceed to the southern islands, being under the impression that the land about Akaroa and Banks Peninsula, in the Middle Island of New Zealand, is the property of a French subject. These circumstances, combined with the tone in which Captain Lavaud alluded to Akaroa and Banks Peninsula, excited, in ray mind, a. strong presumption that he is charged with some mission in that quarter incompatible with the Sovereign rights of Her Britannic Majesty, and which, as I have before observed, it will be your study by every means to frustrate. If ray suspicions prove correct, L'Aube will no doubt proceed direct to Akaroa and Banks Peninsula, for which place I have earnestly to request that you will at once depart with the utmost expedition, as it would be a point of the utmost consideration that, on his arrival at that port, he may find you in occupation, so that it will be out of his power to dislodge you without committing some direct act of hostility. Captain Lavaud may, however, anticipate you at Akaroa or (should he be defeated in his movements) may endeavour to establish himself at some other point. In the event of either contingency occurring, I have to request you to remonstrate and protest in the most decided manner against such proceeding, and impress upon him that such interference must be considered as an act of decided hostile invasion. You will perceive by the enclosed copy of Major Bunbury's declaration that dependent of the assumption of the sovereignty of the Middle and Southern Islands, as announced by my proclamation of the 21st May last (a copy of which is also enclosed) the principal chiefs have ceded their rights to Her Majesty through that officer, who was fully authorised to treat with them for that purpose; it will not, therefore, be necessary for you to adopt any further proceedings. It will, however, be advisable that some act of civil authority should be exercised on the islands, and for that purpose the magistrates who accompany you will be instructed to hold a court on their arrival at each port, and to have a record of their proceedings registered and transmitted to me. You will by every opportunity which may offer forward intelligence of the French squadion's movements, and should you deem it necessary, to the Secretary of State for the Colonies through the Admiralty and to His Excellency Sir George Gipps, Governor of New South Wales. Mr. Murphy and Mr. Robinson, the magistrates who accompany you, will receive a memorandum of instructions for their future guidance, which you will be pleased to hand to them when you arrive at your des ination. As your presence in these islands will be of the utmost importance to keep in check any aggression on the part ot the foreign powers, I have earnestly to request that should you require any further supply of provisions the same may be procured, if possible at Port Nicholson,, or at any ports on the coast without returning to Sydney.—I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant, " W. Hobson.
To most minds this letter will quite dispose of the suggestion that Captain Hobson and Commodore Lavaud had arranged the little drama at Akaroa as a means of saving the latter's face. When we are aware, moreover, of the differences which occurred between the two during the time that the French frigate lay in the Bay of Islands, we cannot entertain the suggestion for a moment, Hobson was positively anxious about the French claims, and left not a stone unturned until they were definitely disposed of. Now for the second point, The magistrates referred to, Messrs Murphy and Robinson, were destined for Port Nicholson, with the reservation that the Akaroa question had to be dealt with on the way. Mr Murphy was the senior of the two, and to him Hobson addressed his instrucions, which were sealed, and remained in possession of
"Memo, of instructions to be attended to by Mr Murphy, P.M.—You will at every port that H.M. sloop
"Dated at Russell 21st July, 1840."
In Pigeon Bay there resided a family named Smclair, who owned the property now held by the Holmes in Pigeon Bay. (See page 93) In the early days this family and the Hays came from Wellington about the same time, Mr Sinclair, on his first arrival, built a vassel, and went on a voyage with his son in law. We have not been able to ascertain their proposed destination, but they were never heard of again. Mrs. Sinclair was, therefore, left with two sons and three daughter, and with these she worked on and made a good living. She was an exceedingly hospitable, kind old lady, and gave many a night's lodging to a traveller in those days, who would otherwise have had to spend the night amongst the bush. One daughter married a Captain Gay, who was commander and owner of a vessel. After a certain time had elapsed, the family sold out to Mr. George Holmes, and started a regular family ship, and went to British Columbia. Not liking that place when they ararrived there, they went to Honolulu, in the Sandwich Islands, where they bought an island for themselves. They prospered there exceedingly, and became afterwards owners of one island and a half. Some of the family bought land in the North Island. Frank Sinclair used to occasionally pay a visit to New Zealand to take away the best bulls, rams and entire horses he could get to improve the stock on his island home. The family became rich, and sheared from 80,000 to 100,000 sheep. A description of this island was written by Miss Bird, and a few extracts may prove entertaining. She says; —
"I must now say a little about my hosts, and try to give you some idea of them. I heard their history from Mr. Damon, and thought it too strange to be altogether true until it was confirmed by themselves. The venerable lady at the head of the house emigrated from Scotland to New Zealand many years ago, where the husband was unfortunately drowned, and she being left to bring up a large family and manage a large property, was equally
"They were strongly tempted by Tahiti, but some reasons having decided them against it they sailed northwards and put into Honolulu. Mr. Damon, who was seamen's chaplain, on going down to the wharf one day, was surprised to find a him barque, with this immense family and moveable possesaions on board, with a beautiful and brilliant old lady at its head, books, pictures, work, and all that could add refinement to a floating home about them, and cattle and sheep of valuable breeds in pens on deck. They then sailed for British Columbia, but were much disappointed with i., and in three months they reappeared at Honolulu, much at a loss regarding their future prospeels.
"The island of Niihau was then for sale, and in a very short time they purchased it of Kamehameha V. for a uleanas, but the present possessors have made themsalves thoroughly acquainted with the language, and take the warmest interest in the island population. Niihau is famous for its
"The household here consist, first and foremost, of its head, Mrs, Sinclair, a lady of the old Scotch type, very talented, bright, humorous, charming, with a definite character which impresses its force upon everybody; beautiful in her old age, di-daining that servile conformity to prevailing fashion which makes many old people at once ugly and contemptible; speaking English with a slight old fashioned, refined Scotch accent, which gives naivetè to everything she says; up to the latest novelty in theology and politics; devoted to her children and grand-children, the life of the family, and, though upwards of seventy, the first to rise and the last to retire in the house. She was away when I came, but some days after wards rode up on horseback, in a large drawn silk bonnet, which she rarely lays aside, as light in her figure and step as a young girl, looking as if she had walked out of an old picture, or one of Dean Ramsay's books
"Then there are her elder son, a bachelor; two widowed daughters with six children between them; and a tutor, a young Prussian officer, who was on Maximilian's staff up to the time of the Queretaro disaster, and is still suffering from Mexican barbarities. The remaining daughter is manied to a Norwegian gentleman, who owns and resides on the next property So the family is together, and the property is large enough to give scope to the grandchildren as they require it.
"They are thoroughly Hawaiianised. The young people all speak Hawaiian as easily as English, and the three young men, who are superb young fellows, about six feet high, not only emulate the natives in feats of horsemanship, such as throwing the lasso, and picking up a coin while going at full gallop, but are surf-board riders, an art which it has been said to ba impossible for foreigners to acquire.
"The natives on Niihau and in this part of Kauai call Mrs. Sinclair 'Mamma.' Their rent seems to consist in lunas, or overseers. Dr. Smith, of Koloa, twenty-two miles off, is the only doctor on the island, and the natives resort to this house in great numbers for advice and medicine in their many ailments. It is much such a life as people lead at Raasay, Applecross, or some other remote Highland place, only that people who come to visit here, unless they ride twenty-two miles, must come to the coast in the Jenny, instead of being conveyed by one of David Hutcheson's luxurious steamers. If the Clansman were 'put on,' probably the great house would not contain the strangers who would arrive."
The Sinclair family is not forgotten on the Peninsula, the hill beyond the Hill Top being called Mt. Sinclair after them.
The Monarch, commanded by Captain Smale, chartered by Messrs Robinson (formerly Resident Magistrate at Akaroa) and Smith, who was the first; person who placed sheep on Mr. Buchanan's run at Little River, was the first English ship that ever came to Akaroa. She arrived on April 2, 1850, and the following is a full account of her trip, published in the Akaroa Mail in 1877:—
It, is now twenty eight years ago since we first turned our thoughts towards New Zealand. The idea speedily ripened into resolve, and finally we took our passage in a small barque named the Monarch, of 375 tons register, the owners, Messrs Robinson and Smith, coming out with her. The crew consisted of the captain, David Smale, three officers, six A.B. seamen, and an apprentice, while the passengers numbered fifty two, including a doctor. With a small vessel, a short crew, and a few adventurers, for such we might be termed in those days, we set sail for Auckland, but Akaroa was to be our destiny, and there we proved to be the first direct English settlers in what is now called Canterbury. The town of our adoption, Akaroa, now boasts of a periodical publication, and it has been thought that an epitome of our voyage, and the subsequent career of some of those ante-pioneers to the Canterbury settlement—ante diluvians as we have been jocosely termed—might prove interesting to the readers of that journal.
"We left Gravesend on the 22nd day of November, 1849, putting into Cowes, Isle of Wight, whence we resumed our voyage at 6 a.m. on the 27th, and, with a fine light breeza, ran down the Channel that day, losing sight of land as the shades of night closed in and hid it from our gaze. With Madeira came our next view of the terra firma, but were not able to indulge in more than a fleeting glance, as our captain deemed it advisable to keep as near mid-ocean as was practicable. So onwards in our course until about three days' sail from 'Rio,' when we fell in with a smart looking craft, the Pilot Fish, bound to that
"Many and loud were the expressions of annoyance and discontent wheu this discovery was made known to us, so much so that the owners decided upon running for Hobart Town. The wind, however, proved dead against the carrying out of thair decision, and being a fair one for our proper course, tha idea was abandoned after four days of beating about, and we once more resumed our voyage to Auckland. The same evening that we bade farewell to the distantly seen shores of Tasmania, a fearful squall struck our vessel, forcing her through the water at such a spaed that the rudder was broken away before sail could be shortened. In addition to this serious mishap, the stern windows were dashed in, and the saloon flooded with about three feet of water, With great presence of mind two passengers, an elderly gentleman (Mr Wray) and his daughter, seized feather
"Hope had fled, and grim despair had taken possession of us all, for there was no chance of extraneous aid, and the coastal steamers which now ply so frequently between our ports, and run up and down the coast, were not then in existence, when, as is often the case just about midnight, the wind suddenly veered round to an exactly opposite quarter, and speedily drifted us away from the land into comparative safety. Then arose sincere and hearty thanks givings for deliverance in the hour of peril to Him who rules not only the winds and waves, but also the desfiny of His creatures.
"With the appearance of day, the only spar we had on board was fixed so as to steer the vessel, and under sail we set out for the nearest, or any, port that could be found. On the 27th day of March, 1850, we made the heads of Akaroa Harbour, into which the owners had determined to enter, but the wind proved unfavourable for so unmanageable a rudder, and, in an almost starving condition, we were compelled to lie to for almost a week before a fair
"We let go anchor at one o'clock the same day, and in an hour afterwards many of us landed, thankful enough to be on terra firma again after our long and perilous voyage. Here and there might then have been seen small groups of the new arrivals wending their way to seek new friends amongst the strangers, astonished to find, instead of the traditional cannibal of New Zealand, Europeans, like themselves, representatives of England, Scotland, Ireland, Savoy and Germany, who proffered a most hearty welcome, and seemed right pleased to see us, while a few Maoris, to all appearance tame and civilised, joined in the cordial reception accorded to us by all. Fortunately among our passengers was a young man who could speak French fluently, and this proved of great service to us. Eventually a kind of patois was established, which enabled us to deal with our new friends, and such was their kindness and hospitality that, after twenty-seven years' sojourn in this colony, we still look back with feelings of the keenest gratitude and pleasure to the welcome we received at their hands. We partook of tea on the day of our landing at Bruce Hotel. The table was well furnished, and the cooking excellent. As may easily be imagined, we did ample justice to the substantial repast set before us, and enjoyed it as only those can who, for a long time, have neither tasted fresh meat, nor, indeed, a
"There is always in narratives of this kind a certain delicacy in mentioning the names of others, but to some extent it is necessary to do so. Only a few, however, need be mentioned. Some soon removed to other parts of the country, while others turned their thoughts and best attention towards what
"My self imposed narrative now draws to a close, scenes changed, circumstances altered, some rested from their labours and passed on to fairer regions; a few remain, who are with us still, while others, faithful to the old spot, though removed some little distance from it, like
The Monarch brought some pheasants, which were turned out at Pigeon Bay, but went over to Port Levy. They did not do well at first, failing to increase much till some Chinese pheasants were added to their ranks, after which they soon became numerous. Besides the pheasants, some cattle were brought out by Mr. Smith.
There were fifty two passengers on board; most were bound for Auckland, at which port the Monarch intended to call first, but forty of these were so delighted with the appearance of Akaroa that they resolved to remain here. At this time little progress had been made since the first settlement by the French. The English were few and far between, though, of course, a good many whalers, French and Americans, visited the harbour.
Mr. Watson was the Resident Magistrate, and Messrs Farr and family,
Among the earlier settlers were Messrs Bruce, P, Wood, Reed, McKinnon and others. The latter squatted on the land afterwards purchased by the Rev. W. Ayimer.
Messrs Farr, Pavitt, Haylock, and their families, with the two Vogans, settled within the township of Akaroa. Mr. Pavitt, senr., and his family went to Robinson's Bay, where Mr. Saxton later lived, the elder sons going sawing in the bush, The houses were of the most primitive description, the blockhouses being then gradually falling into decay Bruce Hotel had by far the most imposing appearance. Bruce kept it beautifully clean, having it washed down every morning as if it was a ship. He was an old sailor, formerly the owner of a cutter which traded from the south. On Mr. Bruce's first trip here, Captain Smith, lata of the Wairarapa, was on board, and a Maori woman. The vessel, when lying inside the heads in calm water with all sails set, was suddenly capsized in a equall. The Maori woman, who was down below at the time, was
Paddy Wood, another "old identity," kept an hotel where Garwood's Buildings now stand. These two publicans were continually quarrelling, but this was nearly entirely owing to Wood's fault, who was very rough and disputatious. Bruce was a most affable man. and many a tale is told of his kindness and generosity.
Where the private part of Bruce Hotel now stands there was originally a store, built by Messrs Ellis and Turner. These two men, like the publicans, could not agree, so after a lengthy series of quarrels they determined to separate and divide the property. Here, however, a difficulty arose with regard to who should have the building. At last they hit upon the most original plan of dividing it, and cut it fair down the centre with a cross cut saw, each party boarding up his own end.
Another store stood where the iron gate, near Garwood's Buildings, is at present situated. This was was built by a man named Duvauchelle, and was afterwards used as a lock up, and at the end of its career in that capacity became a hospital. It later formed the older portion of Mrs, Watkins' store, which stood on the site now occupied by Mr. T Lewitt's drapery establishment.
The late Dr. Watkins' dwelling house was then situated on the beach, and was also near Garwood's Buildings. It was moved in pieces up to a position some chains behind Mr. F. Narbey's residence. It has been pulled down some years since.
Mr. Waeckerle had a flour mill on the section opposite Waeckerle's Hotel. A good deal of wheat was grown, principally by the Natives.
The first willow, supposed to be a slip from the one overhanging Napoleon s grave at St. Helena, was planted in German Bay by Mons. de Belligny. It is from this tree that all those that beautify Akaroa, and the borders of the Avon in Christchurch, originally sprang. This same
The history of the first willow trees in Akaroa has since been told more fully. Francois Lelievre, who came to the Peninsula in a whaling vessel, managed to evade the vigilance of the gendarmes guarding Napoleon's grave at Longwood, St. Helena, and take three slips of the famous willow growing there. He watered and tended the three slips most carefully all the long voyage out, and on arrival at Akaroa made a clearing in the bush close to where Mrs H. C. Jacobson now lives. He plantpd the three slips. Only two grew, and of these the one was removrd to German Bay as above mentioned. The other one had a very lengthy life, only falling in 1910. The historic willow was a source of interest to many tourists to Akaroa.
The Canterbury settlement was at first started in 1848 by an association in England, composed of men of influential position, who were deeply impressed with the necessity of a thorough reform in the management of the colonies. Their object was to establish a model colony, in which all the elements of a good and right state of society should be perfectly organised from the first. Unity of religious creed being deemed essential, the settlement was to be entirely composed of members of the Church of England; religion and the highest class of education were to be amply provided for; and everything was to be ordered and arranged so as to attract men of station and character, and a high class of emig ants generally, to embark their fortunes in the undertaking. The scheme was carried out by men whose hearts were in the work, among whose numbers the names of John Robert Godley and Lord Lyttelton are conspicuous. In their bands the enterprise lost nothing of the high character that was first impressed upon it, although many modifications of the original plan were found desirable, and judiciously carried into effect.
The principles of religious exclusiveness was necessarily soon abandoned, and the first ideas of the projectors may have been imperfectly realised in other respects, but it is only just to acknowledge the debt of gratitude that Canterbury owes to its founders, as even the measures of success that crowned their efforts is appreciable in the tone and spirit of its people at the present time.
The first party of emigrants, numbering 791, left England on September 7, 1850, in four ships, and arrived at the port, now called Lyttelton, almost together in December of the same year. Mr. Godley, the agent of the Association, was already in New Zealand, and considerable preparations had been made at the port for the immigrants' reception. When the Canterbury Pilgrims (as they were called) first viewed the new country from the summit of the volcanic bills that skirt the seaboard, they saw before them a bare expanse of plains, stretching from thirty to sixty miles to the foot of the dividing ranges (the backbone of the country), broken only by a few patches of timber, and with no other sign of civilisation than the solitary homestead of the Messrs Deans, who had settled there some years before. The only approach to the level land was over the mountains, about 1200 feet in height, or round by sea to Sumner. and thence by the Heathcote River to Christchurch, as the chief town was named. Those who can look back from the Canterbury of to day to the time when they commenced to spread over the country, to bring their new land under the plough and spade, must feel astonishment as well as pride at the really wonderful results that little more than sixty years have produced. Looking over the Plains now from the Port Hills the eye is delighted with the beautiful panorama spread out before it. The whole face of nature has been changed. In place of the once bare Plains, with nothing to mark the distance or break the monotonous expanse of level grass land, the spectator sees before him a timbered country, with well grown forest trees, smiling homesteads, well cultivated fields, and cheerful hedgerows stretching far and wide in every direction; here and there
The first schoolmaster in Akaroa was Mr Wadsworth, who came out in the same ship as Mr. Garwood. He was a very capable man and much liked, but he soon left, and entered the civil service in Victoria, where he held a good position.
a river glistening in the sun, and the city of Chrisfchurch, only six miles distant, almost concealed amidst the trees.
The first settlers that arrived here under the Canter-terbury Association were the late Dr Watkins, the late Mr. D'Oyley, the late Mr. Matson (manager for the late Captain Muter), the late Mr. Dicken, the late Mr. Funnel, and the late Mr. Hammond, of German Bay. The next arrival was that of the late Rev. W. Aylmer and his family, who brought with him the late Mr. Moore, the late Mr. Morgan and his family, the late Mr. August Porter (brother of the late Mr. John Porter), and Miss Catherine Edgewortb, now Mrs. Garvey. He was the first incumbent of Akaroa, but previous to his arrival
The first Church of England service was held in the French Magazine, which was also used as a Courthouse, and stood on the site of the present Courthouse, and the seats were borrowed from the Roman Catholic Chapel. Shortly after this, Archdeacons Paul and Mathias paid a visit to Akaroa for the purpose of holding a wholesale maniage and christening of the Natives. The Maoris flocked in great numbers, apparently delighted at the idea. Many of the children had been baptised before by clergmen of various denominations, but they had it done over and over again to make all sure. Some of the ladies left long strings of their children outside the building whilst they went in to be married.
In these earlier days a brig named the Mountain Maid used to visit Akaroa and other New Zealand ports periodically. She came from Sydney, and was the property of Mr. Peacock, father of the late Hon. John Peacock. The Mountain Maid was a perfect floating warehouse, from which the settlers drew their supplies. She bad everything on board, "from a needle to an anchor," and her decks used to be crowded by busy purchasers whenever she arrived.
Some time in the year 1852. Colonel Campbell was sent down by Sir George Grey as Commissioner, to enquire into all land claims. He had with him Mr. J. C. Boys, of Rangiora, as surveyor, and Mr. J. Aylmer as assistant surveyor. Colonel Campbell did not make thingg at all pleasant for the Canterbury Association settlers. He was a disappointed man, having taken great interest in the foundation of the settlement when in London, and fully expected to be appointed first agent, a post that was afterwards given to Mr. Godley. Mr. Robinson, the first Resident Magistrate, while putting forward certain claims of M, de Belligny (whose agent he was), produced deeds that were remarkably awkward for the Rev. W. Aylmer. One of these claims plainly showel that fourteen acres of land on which Mr. Aylmer's house stood belonged to M. de Belligny. Mr. Robinson, when Mr. Godley first arrived,
This was only one of the disputes that arose, war raging between Mr. Watson, the Resident Magistrate, and the Commissioner. Sir George Grey paid a visit to the Penin. sula in this year (1852), and endeavoured to make peace, but with small success. Mr. Watson told Sir G. Grey that he had do animosity towards the Commissioner, so Sir George Grey suggested they should shake hands and make it up, upon which Mr. Watson said, "Bedad, your Excellency, I'd sooner not," and be did not. Manners were then very primitive. On this visit of Sir George's he had corns in unexpectedly one night, having walked from Pigeon Bay. He went to bed at Bruce's Hotel, and Mr. Bruce thought this a filing time to push some of the claims of his own, so he walked into Sir George's room, sat coolly down on the side of the bed, and poured his troubles into His Excellency's ears —one does not know with what success.
Out of these disputes respecting land arose a duel. It took place between Mr. C. B. Robinson, the first Resident Magistrate, whose second was Mr. Cooper, later Collector
The New Zealand Constitution was granted in the year 1852. For the Akaroa district two members were required for the Provincial Council, There were three candidates, the late Mr. Sefton Moorhouse, the late Mr. Robert H. Rhodes and the late Rev, W. Aylmer. Before the polling-booth was opened, Mr. Moorhouse drew the attention of the returning officer, Mr. Watson, to the fact that if an elector intended to vote for two members, he must do so at the same time, that is, he could not first vote for one and then go out, and afterwards vote for another. This had a great effect on the election, as, owing to one of Messrs. Rhodes and Moorhouse's supporters voting for Mr. Rhodes first, and afterwards returning to vote for Mr. Moorhouse, the latter vote was objected to by Mr. Aylmer's agent, and the returning officer agreed with him. This made the number of votes between Messrs.
Aylmer and Moorhouse exactly the same, and the returning-officer giving his casting vote for Mr. Aylmer, he was elected in the second place, Mr. Rhodes having a majority over the other. Mr. Moorhouse petitioned the Provincial Council to upset Mr. Aylmer's seat, and Messrs, Pollard and Calvert appeared in the ease, one on either side. The result of the case was that Mr. Aylmer's election was declared valid.
To show how primitive the people of Akaroa were in these days, and the little amount of public money that was being spent, it may be mentioned that the whole of the inhabitants, headed by the Resident Magistrate and parson, turned out to repair the road from Bruce's to Waeckerle's
About this time a sad accident occurred Two men (one of them the father of the late Mr. H. Magee) were going over the ranges at the back of Akaroa, when one missed the other. Magee's mate came back to Akaroa, but could give no account of Magee, so a search party was instituted, Magee was found lying dead at the foot of a precipice. Many rumours were current about this affair, the dead man being discovered in a remarkable position,
Mr. and Mrs. Peter Brown left Glasgow in October, 1839, in the ship Bengal Merchant, bound to Port Nicholson with immigrants, under the New Zealand Association. The Bengal Merchant was commanded by Captain Emery, and had on board about a hundred passengers. She was the first emigrant ship that ever left Scotland for New Zealand. The passage was a fine weather one, and the passengers were all well during the voyaga. The events were few and far between, consisting of the birth of one child, a marriage, and the death by sunstroke of a boy. No land was touched at till Port Hardy was reached, when a few hours' stoppage took place, and the Maoris were seen for the first time by the new colonists, who were astonished at their primitive costume, one red shirt being the only European clothing amongst the whole hapu. Port Nicholson was reached early in February, 1840, and the new comers landed on the Petone beach. There were very few Europeans living in the place, only one lot of immigrants having landed previously, some fortnight before. The immigrants were not by any means delighted at the appearance of their adopted home. There were no houses, those on shore living in tents or small makeshift whares of the most wretched description. Such a thing as sawn timber was unknown, and all the fittings of the ship were landed and made into three buildings, one for a hospital, another for the company's stores, and a third for the ammunition. There were a good many Natives about, and they were of course utterly uncivilised, much shocking the new comers, who were frightened with their wild dances in honour of the arrival of the pakebas. There were no licenses at this time, and the consequence was that every one who could buy a gallon of grog started a small hotel on their own account. The Natives were in consequence often much excited by the drink, and used to lose control over their actions.
Mrs Brown and most of those who came by the Bengal Merchant went to the Hutt Valley, and took possession of
Mr. Hay (father of the present Pigeon Bay family), who was a passenger, also settled at Petone, and so did Dr. Logan, the ship's doctor. The arrangements made by the Association for settling the new comers were exceedingly bad. They had been told on leaving Scotland that they were going to a land flowing with milk and honey, but discovered that there were neither of these commodities; in fact, the Bengal Merchant had on board the first cow ever landed in Wellington. Those purchasing one hun-hundred acres in England had been given a cabin passage, but when they asked for their land it could not be given to them, as it was not yet surveyed The British Government, too, objected to Crown grants being given till it was shown that the Natives had been paid five
Mr. and Mrs. Brown and the others who had squatted on the banks of the river Hutt, soon found out their mistake in going to live so near to that treacherous river. On the 1st of June, 1840, Mrs Brown's first son was born, and that same night heavy rain set in; and the following morning the river had overflowed its banks, and the flood was over two feet high inside the house. The bed in which Mrs. Brown was lying began to float, and as it was impossible to move her, it was proposed to suspend the mattress to the rafters of the house. As this latter, however, was a temporary erection, made of small scrub in its rough state, tied togother with flax and daubed over with mud, Mrs. Brown objected, fearing the whole structure would give away and she would be drowned. Her entreaties were at last listened to, and she was left where she was. Fortunately, when the tide turned the river began to fall gradually, so the suspension was never carried out. This flood destroyed many goods, and utterly disheartened the colonists. During that day and the following no fires could be kept alight to dry anything, and altogether misery was the order of the day.
At Petone and the Hutt the people from each vessel were in the habit of making a separate settlement, as it were. Of these one was known as the Cornish Row, being at the Hutt. One of the people in these whares set his house on fire, and, as they were all built close together,
Mr. Peter Brown was a baker, and soon after he went to Petone, where he was baking for a Mr. Duncan, a fellow passenger. Shortly after this the settlement was shifted some seven miles round the beach from Petone to Thorndon, and the old
After three years, Mr Brown got an offer from Mr. Connell to take charge of a bakery at Akaroa, where there were then a good many residents. He accepted the offer, and he and Mrs. Brown left Wellington in 1843, and
Amongst the hotelkeepers the most celebrated person was Captain Bruce, He was a sailor man, having been the captain of a large merchant vessel called the Elizabeth, owned by Johnny Jones. He had a cutter of his own called the Brothers, which used to collect whalebone and oil on the coast between Akaroa and Dunedin. One day, as he was coming into the Akaroa Heads, the cutter capsized in a squall, and left poor Captain Bruce destitute. He was, however, a man of resources and soon started Bruce's Hotel, which he made a great success, his excessive geniality and knowledge of the sea attracting all the
The whaling vessels used always to come in for supplies about Christmas time, and it was no uncommon thing to see a dozen in harbour together at that time, and, as will easily be imagined,. a brisk trade was done with the residents for fresh provisions of all kinds. During the rest of the year, however, the arrivals were few and far between, and there was often great scarcity of certain stores, and the arrival of a small vessel from Wellington, which was really a depôt for everything from England was quite an event. There being no outside trade, with the exception of the occasional traffic with the whalers, the residents really depended on their gardens for their existence. There were no butchers, but everybody kept pigs, and when one person killed, it was divided all round, the compliment being returned. There were also great herds of goats running on the hills. These were owned by a great many people, and used to be got in at intervals, when the different owners would mark the kids with their own marks, and some would be killed for the general use. The pigs were an intolerable nuisance, as they were not kept shut up, but wandered where they liked, doing a great deal of damage. When Governor Grey visited the place in 1847, the inhabitants petitioned him to put a stop to this indiscriminate pig keeping in the streets. He granted the petition, ordaining that all pigs in the town of Akaroa should be kept in confinement. Finding this was rather expensive, many of the residents took to the hills with their pigs and their cattle, where they could run them undisturbed. Mr McKinnon and Mr Lucas got Mrs Brown to ask Governor Grey whether they might be allowed to squat on the hills, and he replied in the affirmative, saying they had better go there and "breed children and cattle as fast as they could." This permission was taken abundant advantage. At that time there was no settler on the south side of the harbour, though Mr George
Rhodes had stations at Long Bay and Flea Bay. Mr McKinnon went to Island Bay, and Mr Lucas went to Land's End, and, as they did well, many others were encouraged to follow them. Mr Wright went to Whakamoa next, and Hempleman was living at Piraki on a whaling station, Job Price at Ikeraki, and Mr Wood, better known as "Paddy Wood," at Oauhau. These latter were all whaling, and kept little stock for their own use. There were great droves of wild pigs on the hills, and in the whaling season these used to come down in hundreds to feed on the blubber.
Mr. Connell went to Nelson, and left Mr and Mrs Brown out of employment. Mr Wood persuaded Mr Brown to go as cook and baker to Oauhau, but they had no idea how rough it was. They went round in a whale boat. There was a great swell on outside, though the weather was fine in Akaroa. Not a word was spoken the whole way, and when they got in Mr Wood said he had never been in a worse sea. The place was terribly rough, and as there was no firewood the food had to be cooked with whales' blubber. They ran short of provisions, and the men got discontented, and the station was left a month before the usual time, much to the gratification of Mr and Mrs Brown, who had spent a very wretched three months there.
Of course, at this time there were no surveys and no Crown grants, and Hemplemen asserted that nearly the whole of the Peninsula was his, so that anyone lived rent free. There were no very large Maori settlements. Little River and Taumutu were the principal pas, but a good many were living in Pigeon Bay and Port Levy. The Akaroa Natives were at Tikao Bay and Onuku, and were very friendly with the Europeans. Tuhau was the leading chief, and one of his two wives lived to a great age, and Tikao was chief of the Tikao Maoris.
It will thus be seen that year by year, though by slow degrees, the settlement of the Peninsula was proceeding and the population spreading from the town itself to the adjacent hills. The French and Germans got Crown
Bishop Selwyn used to come round periodically and visit the settlers and the Maoris. The first Presbyterian service was held by the Rev. C. Fraser in Mrs Brown's house in Akaroa, but it was long afterwards before they had the first resident minister, who was the Rev. Mr. Grant, who afterwards went to Christchurch, and as many of our readers will remember was subsequently lost in the Matoaka.
Another old identity on the Peninsula was Billy Simpson. He had been a fine looking man. The features were marked, determined and regular, and his high, broad forehead showed that his brains were of no mean order. There was a deep scar on the right brow, on which hung a tale, of which more hereafter. Age and hardship made him a mere skeleton, but there was still great vitality apparent in his bright eyes, which kindled when he was spoken to of old times. He had been, as most of the readers of the Akaroa Mail know, residing at Mr. Macphail's, at Island Bay, but an attack of illness rendered it necessary to bring him to Akaroa for medical aid. Simpson was an old sailor, who was born in Berkshire in 1823, according to his own account, but many fancied he was much older. He was early apprenticed to the owner of some vessels running in the West India trade, and he spent his time in the ordinary manner. When he had completed his time, he shipped to Sydney in a large ship called the Mary Ann. This vessel was built for troops, and took out the 28th Regiment to New South Wales. Her commander, Captain Smith, was described by Simpson as a perfect brute, and dire were the quarrels that took place between him and the men. This gentleman was familiarly known as "Pirate Smith," and Simpson warmly asserted that he had as good a right to fly the death's head and cross bones flag as Captain Kidd ever had. Arrived in Sydney, the crew struck and went ashore, refusing to go aboard the Mary Ann again. Brought up before the magistrates, the option was given them of sailing in the vessel, or forfeiting their wages and clothes. They all preferred the latter alternative, and stopped in the Colony. It was at a time when whaling was the principal occupation of sailors in these seas, and in Sydney Simpson soon fell in with Captain Hempleman, who, finding him a good man in a whale boat, engaged him to go for a trip in the brig Bee, as boat steerer, with one and a half shares. This was in the beginning of 1835, about seventy seven
Captain Hempleman had been in command of several big ships before this time, though quite a young man, but had left a large vessel, an English whaler, named the James Calvert, at the Sandwich Islands, owing to some dispute, and therefore had much against his will, to accept the command of the brig Bee, a small and inconvenient vessel compared to those he was accustomed to. Long and Wright were the names of the owners of the Bee, and they fitted her out for a cruise to New Zealand, where whales were then reported as specially plentiful. One reason that Captain Hempleman accepted the command of the Bee was that he was permitted to take Mrs. Hempleman aboard. They would not allow her to be aboard the larger vessels, and he did not like leaving her ashore, so he took a short trip as mate in the ship Norwood, of Sydney, and then took command of the Bee, and amongst other hands shipped Billy Simpson, the hero of the memoir. Mrs. Hempleman, the first, who afterwards died at Piraki, was an English girl, who had came out as an immigrant to Sydney.
The voyage of the Bee to New Zealand, and what success they met with has been previously recorded in these stories, and Simpson said the account was a most correct one. The place where the whaling was carried on, the name of which is not mentioned in the log, was Piraki, but Simpson was very indignant about it being said that they cut poles for the houses in Pigeon Bay, for he vowed they never went there. On mature reflection, however, he said he remembered that Port Levy was then called Pigeon Bay, and it was there the poles were cut. The trip of the Bee was a most successful one, and Hempleman was so pleased with Piraki that he determined to return to it if possible. On his arrival in Sydney he was still more anxious to do this, from the fact that Messrs Wright and Long raised the old objection to his carrying his wife aboard the vessel. He therefore persuaded a Sydney firm, named Clayton and Duke, to let
The Hannah had another shore whaling party to land in New Zealand, besides Hempleman's. The destination of the other was Poverty Bay, but the schooner went to Queen Charlotte's Sound There they stopped for five or six weeks, and although the one party left them to go to the North, they had a good many additions to their ranks, many of the men forming connections with Maori women. There were four boats' crews in the party, some thirty white men in all, Mrs. Hempleman being the only white woman. About a dozen Maoris accompanied then from Queen Charlotte's Sound. The Hannah went first to Akaroa, where she stopped two days before proceeding to land the party at Piraki. There were no whalers in these waters at the time, and the few Maori whares were deserted, for it was just after the massacre by Rauparaha, and he had laid all the plantations waste, destroyed the pas, and driven the few people who escaped death or slavery into the interior. As, therefore, there were no provisions to be got from the Natives, or any object to be gained by stopping in the harbour, the Hannah sailed for Piraki the second morning after her arrival, and that same day landed the party at their future home. It was fine autumn weather, and many aboard were pleased with the idea that it was St. Patrick's Day (being the 17th of March, 1836) when they landed. They soon got their things ashore, and commenced building their whares. They used to sleep in casks for some time, and they were much delayed by going after whales, before they had the trying works and their own houses put up. Hempleman's house was of sawn timber brought from Queen Charlotte's Sound. There was no time for planting. It was just
At this time Simpson heard from the Maoris a good many tales regarding Rauparaha's invasion, and he had previously been shipmates in the Bee with one of those who escaped. The account he gives of the matter, as related to him by the Maoris, is as follows:—Some time antecedent to these events, a Ngatiawa chief named Pahi had visited Europe. He was much impressed with the customs of civilised nations, especially with the fact that wars were usually made against people speaking a different language. He brooded deeply over this idea, and when he returned he formed the ambitious idea of doing away with the inter tribal discords, and making the Maoris a strong united people, capable of waging war on other places beyond New Zealand, and of repelling any foreigners. In the North, amongst his own people, the idea was well received, but he then wished to go through the South, and for that purpose announced his intention of coming across the straits to Taiaroa, who was the leading chief of all these tribes, though he resided in Otago He came across, but the old feeling of hatred to the Northern tribes was still strong, and when he got to Kaiapoi he was
When their horrible work was done they went aboard the brig, aud one cannot help thinking that Captain Stewart was rightly served for aiding the Maoris by carrying them on their bloody errand, when, instead of flax and pigs, these savages brought on board a number of their
One terrible incident seems to stand out in bold relief. When the Martha came up the harbour, Ruaparaha and his men hid themselves under the hatches, and told Captain Stewart to make signals to the shore that he wanted to trade, in the hope that some unsuspicious Native might be lured on board and become their victim. The experiment succeeded only to well, A chief of importance seeing the signal, and thinking the Martha was an ordinary trading vessel, came on board with his daughter, and was instantly seized and bound. During the terrible time of the massacre ashore they were left in the hold of the vessel; but when these demons were once more clear of the land they loosed him, and taunted him with the horrible and bestial tortures and indignities they were going to inflict on his daughter as well as himself. Determined, if possible, to save the poor girl from the indescribably horrible fate in store for her, the gallant prisoner managed to snatch a tomahawk from one of their fiendish persecutors, and killed the miserable girl with a single blow, threw her body into the sea, and tried to leap after it. In this, however, he failed, for, before he could take the spring, he was seized by his captors, who, baulked of their proposed atrocities on his daughter, promised him a death of intense agony. Well they kept their hideous promise! On their arrival at Kapiti, at the great feast at which they celebrated their successful raid, the wretched man was brought before them and tortured to death in a most hideous manner—by having red hot bars of iron thrust through his body, Terrible indeed had been Rauparaha's revenge!
Billy Simpson's narrative had the effect of causing a gentleman residing in Akaroa to write to the Akaroa Mail the following letter, which will be found very interesting: —
Sir,—I have read with great interest Mr Simpson's account of the massacre at Akaroa, but I think there are several statements therein that require correction. It is stated by him that Te Pahi was murdered at Kaiapoi by a chief named Tangatihira. This is altogether wrong, as he was murdered at Akaroa by a chief named Te Mai Hara Nui; and that is why his brother Rauparaha took revenge on the Maoris here. The correct version of the affair, as far as I can learn, is as follows.—About the year 1827 Te Pahi, or, as he was sometimes called, Rakakura, went on a voyage to Sydney, and from thence to England, where he was presented to King George, who took a great interest in the sable chief, and made him some handsome presents when leaving for New Zealand, Te Pahi took great interest in all he saw when in England, and on his return described the country in glowing colours to the Natives; also the immense bodies of troops he had seen, and how they were dressed, armed and drilled.
About a year after his return (this would be abont the end of the year 1829), he made up his mind to make a friendly visit to the Natives of this island, and for that purpose sailed in a large canoe, accompanied by Rauparaha and about fifty followers, all armed with guns, some ef which he had brought out, and some he had purchased at Sydney. They called at most of the pas along the coast, and were everywhere kindly received. They reached Akaroa about three weeks after their departure from the North, It is said by some that they walked overland from Cloudy Bay to Canterbury, but, from the nature of the country and the number of rivers which had to be crossed, this I don't think at all probable.
The principal chief here at the time was named Te Mai Hara Nui, but whether he lived at Onuku or Wainui,
Rauparaha heard the news of the death of his brother's party, and was very "pouri," but did not attempt to be revenged at this time He said to his men, "Tenei a na kino mahi tan ka hoki ki te kianga" (this is bad work; we will return home), so, having got his men all together, he departed, vowing vengeance at some future time. On his way back he called at most of the pas where he had been well treated coming down, and laid them waste, killing great numbers of the Natives, who were not prepared for a mob of well armed men like these The pa which offered the greatest resistance was at the Kaikorai, where the Natives were well fortified on a small hill close to the sea.
They then left for the Straits, and on their arrival found the brig Elizabeth, Captain Stewart, loading spars. A bargain was struck with him: that for fifty tons of dressed flax he was to land Rauparaha and fifty fighting men at Wangaloa, Banks Peninsula, and bring them back to the island of Te Manu, in the Straits. The captain agreed to this, but it is said, while he was down below with Rauparaha, over one hundred Natives came on board, and concealed themselves below until after the vessel was well outside. The Peninsula was made in two days, and the brig beat up and anchored abreast of the pa. All the Natives went out of sight under hatches, so that she was supposed to be a whaler, and as a good trade was generally to be done with them, some of the Natives put off to her. It happened that in the first canoe which boarded her were Te Mai Hara Nui, his wife, and a daughter, twelve years
On the passage up to the island of Mana, between the Straits and Kapiti, the prisoner, Te Mai Hara Nui, was tied by a rope to the main mast, so that he could walk about a little. His daughter was allowed to run about on deck, so he called her to him and said, "They are going to kill me and make a 'taurereka' (slave) of you, but that will never happen," and, picking her up, he knocked her brains out against the hatch combings. After the arrival of the brig, Te Mai Hara Nui and the other prisoners were taken ashore. He was given two days to cry, and was then te be killed. The story of red hot ramrods being run through his body is, I believe, incorrect. He met his death in the following manner: —A straight tree about fifty feet high was chosen, and to the head of this a block and haulyards were rigged up. One end was fastened to his heels, and', head downwards, he was run up and let go with a run, striking the ground with great force. Three times this was repeated; he was then hauled up clear of the ground and the veins of the neck opened, and the first to drink his blood was the widow of the murdered chief, Te
Shortly after this, Stewart interviewed Rauparaha about his cargo of flax, which was promised to him, but he was' very insolent, and refused to give it to him. He was afterwards given one ton, and that was all the payment he ever got for his share in the bloody transaction. He loaded up with spars and sailed for Sydney. The news of this horrible massacre had preceded him, and there was some talk of his being tried for his complicity in the affair; but, owing to the lax state of the laws in New South Wales in those days, it was allowed to blow over. Not Caring to go back to New Zealand, Stewart cleared for a South American port, and was never afterwards heard of. It is supposed by some that the discoverar of Stewart Island and the captain of the brig Elizabeth were one and the same person, but this is not so. The Captain Stewart, after whom the island was named, was a man very much respected, who gave up the sea and settled down in Poverty Bay, where he died in the year 1844—Yours, etc.,
We take the following account of this tragedy from the Auckland Herald, After describing the cause of the quarrel, which is precisely the same as that given in article No. 2 of this, work, entitled "European Massacre," the account; of the massacre in Akaroa Harbour, the narrative goes on to say: —
"Matters could not be expected to end here. A blood debt had been created, and an atonement had to be obtained. The Ngatitoa at Kapiti brooded over a means for revenge which was to be signal and complete. Some few months after the death of Te Pahi a vessel came from Sydney, bringing some Natives to their homes, amongst whom was a brother of Te Rauparaha. In Foveaux Straits the Natives learned the details of the sad calamity which had
"What follows has been told by many, but each has a different story to narrate, although there appears little doubt but what the truth can be gathered by careful analysis. 'Takou' is a corruption of ' Otakou,' the form in which 'Otago' was formerly spelt. Akaroa seventy years ago was pronounced and sometimes written Hakaroa. Mr Montefiore writes of 'Banks Island,' instead of 'Banks Peninsula,' but fixes the tragedy there, which is far better than to have it located so indefinitely as in 'Takou.' The Rev. Mr. Yate, who gave evidence before the House of Commons, asserted that the kidnapping was done at Kapiti; but the early missionaries knew little of the Middle Island, and less perhaps than the sealers and whalers did of the mission mode of writing the Maori language Mr. Montefiore had told the English Committee that twenty two years had elapsed between the
"'Parramatta, 18th April, 1831. May it please your Excellency.—The following is a statement given by Ahu, the youngest brother of the chief Te Mai Hara Nui of the murders committed at Takou (Akaroa) by the Natives of Kapiti, and the Europeans belonging to the brig Elizabeth and Ware, the chief of the Bay of Islands:
"'Kapiti is a native settlement situated on the west side of New Zealand, not far from Mt. Egmont, at or near Cook Straits. The name of the chief is Rauparaha. At this settlement there is a good harbour for ships. Takou is another native settlement, situated on the Middle Island and south side of the straits. The name of the chief of Takou was Te Mai Hara Nui. Some years ago a chief belonging to Kapiti, named Te Pahi Kupe, went on board the ship Uranui that was on the coast, and would not leave her; he was so anxious to see England, On his way to Europe he visited South America, and was both at Lima and Janeiro in a Liverpool vessel, which landed him at Liverpool, where he met very many friends. He visited all the provincial towns in England, and also the City of London. He returned to New South Wales in the same ship as our present postmaster (Mr Raymond) came out in, and gave me an account of his travels. He brought with him considerable property After some time he returned to Kapiti to his friends He was not long at Kapiti before he crossed the straits and landed on the Middle Island, and visited Takou On his third visit to Takou he was killed by some Natives there, in consequence of some difference there between the chiefs of Kapiti and the people of Takou. After his death, his brother came to
"A Mr. Montefiore, who was in New Zealand in 1830, gave evidence on the matter before a committee of the House of Commons, and, having had personal intercourse with Captain Stewart and Te Mai Hara Nui is a credible
"The story which is told that a hook was fastened under the chin of the captured man, and that he was kept in that state for two or three days on board the brig, Mr. Montefiore contradicts most emphatically, saying the story is bad enough without aggravation. "I saw the chief he was as fine a man as ever I saw in ray life. Had there been any appearance of the hook alluded to it could not have escaped my notica. He was cruelly confined enough, for his legs were in a state of mortification from the irons the captain had put on them.'
"Taylor said that when Te Mai Hara Nui had been captured, 'Te Hiko, the son of Te Pahi, entered the cabin and stared fixedly at Te Mai Hara Nui for nearly half an hour without saying a word; he then approached and drew back the upper lip of the captive chief, and said, 'Those are the teeth which ate my father.' After the warfare on shore had ceased, and the pa had been taken, five hundred baskets of human fiesh, Taylor adds 'were taken on board, which the captain professed to believe was only pork, and some say that much of it was cooked in the ship's coppers.' Shortland says the daughter of Te Mai Hara Nui, called Roimata (the tears), jumped overboard when near the Heads at her father's command to escape the fate of a slave, and was drowned, Rauparaha died in his bed, as we may say, having the Church of England service read over his corpse. Cowell has not long since been dead (of whom Governor Gore Brown wrote while sti l living, 'The man's account; of his own share in that dreadful affair makes his conduct appear in a more atrocious light than has yet been reported ')., while the captain of the 'bloody Elizabeth,' as she was called in Sydney, was washed overboard when going round Cape Horn The manner of his death seems almost beyond the region of doubt, as Mr. Montefiore reported the fact to the Lyttelton. Times indulge in Various surmises as to the manner of Stewart's, death. Nor is the hypothesis of a Southern writer worthy of much attention that whan Stewart could not get his 'cargo of flax' at Kapiti, that he 'loaded up with spars.' The Elizabeth, moreover, arrived in Sydney on January 14, 1831, with thirty tons'of flax on board. Mr. Rusden writes of three brothers of Te Mai Hara Nui being among the slain, but the "genealogical tables which are at hand in the North bear no evidence that we have seen of their relationship, Rusden traced the causes at some length why Stewart was not punished, but all the witnesses were sent out of the country.
"To those who maintain that our coming to New Zealand was an unmixed evil to the Maori race the above details may afford food for reflection.
"P.S.—Through the kindness of Judge Fenton in lending the writer his notes taken at the hearing of the Rangitikei Manawatu case, it appears from the evidence then given that Te Pahi on his arrival in New South Wales heralded his return by sending a vessel to Kapiti, coming home himself in a brig called the Queen Charlotte. After his arrival we are told that he took up his guns to Pikitara, a place some distance up the Rangitikei River, returning thence to Kapiti, where he is represented as staying for some considerable time—two years the witness said—before he went oh the Ngaitahu. campaign, which entailed his death."
The collector of these histories has been fortunate indeed in procuring the autobiography of one of the mast celebrated Peninsula veterans, and begs to thank the kind friend who took such pains to secure it for him. The true history that follows was sent in an autobiographical form, but it has bean thought better to alter certain portions into the narrative style.
The subject of this number, James Robinson Clough, was a native of Bristol. How he came to drop his surname one cannot say, but he was universally known as Jimmy Robinson, or Rapahina, as the Maoris called him. When a boy he ran away from home and took to the sea, as is generally the case when a boy does run away. After several years in the East India trade, he found his way across to America, and there joined a new Bedford whaler called the Roslyn Castle, which was bound south. On board this vessel he stayed three years, and met with many an adventure. Whales were much more plentiful in those days than they are now, so that at the end of this time the Roslyn Castie was a full ship She had some remarkably good takes off the Solanders, and for over three weeks her fires were never out. During one of these ehases our hero very nearly lost the number of his mess. A large sperm whale, a cow with a calf, had been singled out, and the chief mate's boat, in which Robinson was pulling bow oar, was the first to make fast to her. As soon as she was struck, the whale sounded, and the line ran out fast, but she came up almost immediately, and went straight for the boat. Turning close to it, she gave one stroke with her flakes, cutting it clean in two, and killing the two midship oarsmen, tossing the others up in the air. They dropped close to the wreck, and managed to hold on to the oars and wreckage until picked up by the captain's boat. The same whale was taken two daya afterwards. It was known by the iron in it, and turned out a large number of barrels. Calling in at Stewart Island for wood and water, four fresh hands (Maoris) were
After cruising about up the east coast of New Zealand, they ran into Akaroa, as their captain intended to recruit here for a month It was blowing a gale of wind from the north west when they made the Heads, and it was as much as they could do to work the ship up the harbour. Some of the squalls were terrific, and as they had her under pretty small canvas, it was no joke working her, where the tacks were so short. After getting about half way up, the wind was a good deal steadier and the harbour wider, and they dropped anchor abreast of the present town of Akaroa. This was in March, 1837, There were three other vessels lying there at that time, two being French, and one a Sydney whaler. The skipper laid in a good stock of pork and potatoes, the Maoris being very willing to trade, taking principally tobacco and slops for their produce. The crew were allowed to go ashore a good deal, and it was here that our hero fell in love with a young Native woman, who proved as good and fond a wife to him as any of his own country women could have been. She was the daughter of a Native chief named Iwikau, a chief of the Ngatirangiamoa, and was about twenty years of age. To quote his own words: "I was about twenty three myself at this time, so we were about a match. As money was of very little use here in those days, I took all I had to draw from the ship in trade, and as we had been very lucky, my share amounted to over six hundred dollars. Amongst my purchases was a five oared whale-boat, which the skipper would not part with until after a lot of persuasion. I had a good stock of clothing, dungaree, coloured cotton and tobacco, so that I was looked upon as a Rangatira Pakeha. There was another white man living here at the time, known as "Holy Joe," but how he came to be called that I cannot imagine, as he was anything but what the name implied. I always looked upon him as a runaway from Van Diemen's Land, and such he afterwards told me he was. At this time there were over a thousand Maoris living round Whangaroa Harbour, for
Jimmy Robinson was present, and helped to hoist the English standard in Akaroa. His own version of it, as told to our informant, was as follows: —
"It was in the year 1840, in August. I had been up to the Head of the Bay getting a load of pipis, of which the Maoris are very fond. I had in the boat with me my wife and her youngster, who was about a year old, and named Abner. 'Holy Joe' was also with me, as I found him more useful in handling a whale boat than the Maoris. We were beating down with a light south west wind, when I noticed a ship come round the point with a fair wind. I said to Joe, "We shall get some tobaeco at last," as we had been out of it for some time. We then stood toward her: but when we got a bit nearer we could see her ports, and that, therefore, she was a man of war. I said. so to my mate, and he said, 'If she is, for God's sake let me get ashore.', I suppose his guilty conscience pricked him, or else he had not finished his time and thought he might be recognised. To satisfy him I said I would land him, and paid her head off for the shore. I had not got far when I heard a blank shot fired and saw some signals run up, so I thought I was wanted as a pilot perhaps, so hauled on a wind again and ran alongside. She had come to an anehor by this time a little above Green's Point, as it is now called, She turned out to be the British man of-war Britomart, Captain Stanley, who came to tha side and asked me to step on board, which I did. He asked me who the female was, and I told him, so be said, 'Ask her to come on board I could hardly persuade her, but she came at last, and squatted down on deck with the young one in her arms. The captain ordered the steward to bring her something to eat, so she soon had a good spread of pies, cakes and fruit in front of her, but she seemed so nervous that she could not eat them. The captain asked me to come below,
"After this several other white men took up their abode round Akaroa, so I thought I would shift my camp, and It must be remembered this tale was related to my Informant some years ago when Mr. Deans was alive.
But he found this sort of life too dull and solitary, so he left, and went north, where he engaged with Mr. Darby Caverhill, and managed his run for a bit. What is now known as Motanau was the place where they were living. He only stayed here about two years, and then went south again, and came across what is known as the Alford Forest. Being struck with the fine timber here, he thought it would be a fine place to settle, so he purchased the section where his house now stands, and he did very well out of it. He lived all alone here, his eldest boy being married, and living on Mr. Acland's station, Mount Peel, He happened to save Mr. Acland's life one time when he was crossing the Rangitata, and has been there ever since. His second son, George, he had not seen for some years. He went to live with the Maoris on the Peninsula; and his youngest he lost the run of altogether He sent him down to Christchurcb, about eight years ago, to get some tools and to get the horse shod, and he never heard a word from him since. He believed he got on the spree and sold the horse, and, being ashamed to come back, cleared off to sea.
Although living alone, Robinson's house was a picture of neatness. It was situated on the edge of the bush, about half way between McCrae's and Single Tree Point. There was a splendid garden of about two acres, filled with the choicest fruit trees, the sale of the produce of which brought him in a good bit of ready money. Living so close to a public house, most of it found its way there. When on the spree he would do almost anything for grog, and on one occasion, not having anything to raise the wind, he was seen endeavouring to sell a large family
Amongst the "Old Identities" of the Peninsula, one of the most remarkable was Jimmy Walker, or. "One eyed Jimmy," as he was often called, from the fact that one of his eyes was gone. Our informant tells us that he believes his right name was Quinn, but no one ever called him anything else but Jimmy Walker, or One eyed Jimmy. The way in which he first became known as Walker is rather curious. When he first came to New Zealand he was a very strong and powerfully built man, standing over six feet. Being not only a sailor, but a sailor accustomed to boats, he soon learnt to manage the canoes when he went to live amongst the Maoris. After a short time he became so expert that none of the Natives could "hold a candle to him," as he used to say. The result was that the Maoris christened him "Waka," the Maori for a canoe; and as his Christian name was Jimmy, he gained tbe appellation of Jimmy Waka, or Walker, which stuck to him till the day of his death.
His first arrival in New Zealand was in the year 1839, when he landed in the Bay of Islands. He was then about eighteen years of age, and immediately after running away from his ship he went into the bush, where he followed the occupation of timber splitting for some time He soon became very expert at this work, but as soon as he got a cheque he used to knock it down, as was the fashion in tbose days, in one of the neighbouring grog shanties, which were common enough even at that early period, being established principally for the benefit (?) of the whalers who used to frequent the coast. After a time be got tired of this life, and went over to Auckland When he got there he was employed by Sir George Grey as a gardener. The great Pro Consul took quite a fancy to this stalwart, good looking, good natured young sailor, to whom work seemed only fun, but, alas! these good looks, which stirred the Governor's sympathy, were the cause of Jimmy's speedy departure. Amongst Sir George's household was a very pretty Maori girl, whose susceptible
After living in this way for eight years, the chief thought Jimmy was getting too bumptious, and tried to take him down. A serious row ensued, and Jimmy was very nearly shot by the enraged Rangitiera. However, he managed to escape with his life, though he left one of his eyes behind him in the scrimmage, and so gained another cognomen. All his gear, however, was forfeited, and he left the pa without anything but the much damaged clothes he had on his back. It is not recorded what became of her who bad left Sir George Grey's household for his sake; but Jimmy used to hint that the eight years of connubial felicity had somewhat chilled the first glow of their
Shortly after the Otago diggings broke out he found his way to them. He had excellent luck at first, but with his habits money was of little use to him, for the faster he made it the quicker he spent it, At the end of a few years the neighbourhood in which he was working was pretty well exhausted, so he started out on a prospecting tour into the little explored back country, accompanied by his mate. They travelled to places that no white man had previously visited, and it was then that Jimmy had the adventure of his life. This was no less than catching a glimpse of a living specimen of the great apteryx, the huge moa bird. One need hardly say that Jimmy's tale about his meeting with a live moa was much doubted, but to the day of his death he always swore that it was a fact, with such earnestness as left no room to doubt that he himself thoroughly believed that he had seen that great bird that is supposed to be extinct. Whether he and his mate (who also affirmed the same thing) were suffering from strange hallucination, or whether they really did see this wonderful creature, will probably ever remain a
This is the story just as he told it to our informant, and
The late Mr. and Mrs. Hahn, who used to live within a short distance of Jimmy Walker at Waikouaiti, and who knew him well, forwarded us the following further particulars regarding that veteran. It appears that some forty nine years ago he was splitting posts and rails at Johnny Jones's bush at Waikouaiti, having gone there from the Tuapeka diggings. Jimmy here dropped across a widow, who was a sister to a Mrs. Winsey. she had been married to an old skipper, who had given up "the. briny," as he called it. and died in the happy possession of an oyster saloon in the classic neighbourhood of the Minories, in London. When this unfortunate event occurred her sister wanted her to come out here, and she complied. She was a decent woman about forty, and, being fair, no doubt attracted Jimmy from the force of contrast with his former dusky companions. Her relatives being old and feeble, she began to look out for a home, and, no doubt, infloeneed by her former relation with the ocean, kept company with the Cyclopean Jimmy. She accepted him when he told her he had lots of money—in fact, had made his "pile." Of course she only married him for a home and his money, and she lived to bitterly repent her folly.
They were married in Waikouaiti, and kept up the "spree" for three days at Mrs. Winsey's house, which was situated on the edge of the Hawksbury Bush. After the great "spree" Jimmy's money was almost done. They lived with the Winseys for about three weeks, while Jimmy was building a hut in the Hawksbury Bush. He got permission to do so from the late John Jones, for whom he was working. The hut was built of split slabs and covered with calico. He soon began to ill treat his wlfe, and the Winseys, having got tired of Jimmy's company and the rows occasioned by the quarrelling of the two, told him he must take her away, so as soon as his hut was finished he moved into it It was built a little way in the bush, on a small clearing a short distance from Hawksbury House. When they got into the hut Mrs. Walker soon displayed her ability at housekeeping, for she arranged her half tent, half hut in such a tasteful manner that it was the talk of all the people round that neighbourhood. When Mrs, Walker was living with her sister, before she knew Jimmy, ghe had some cattle which she bought when she first came out As soon as they were, married Jimmy sold these and spent the money. This was the first of their quarrels, which led to his thrashing her, the castigation no doubt reminding him of the system used in correcting Maori ladies, He became a perfect brute to his wife, thrashing, her in the most unmerciful manner. He always performed this operation late at night, never, striking her in the day time. All the men about there seemed to be afraid of him, and consequently he was let alone, though universally hated by his mates, Charlie Anderson, Billy Caton, Jack Pope and a Swede. These four men used formerly to work in Okain's Bay, but went away from there to the Tuapeka diggings. Jimmy was considered a good bush man in those days, so his mates stuck to him. Mrs, Walker frequently brought Jimmy up before the late Mr. Mellisb, who was Magistrate there, and who used to caution Jimmy, who would promise to act better if he was let off, but never did. The Resident Magistrate eventually bound him over to keep the peace, but this was too much
Amongst the remarkable inhabitants of Akaroa, our worthy friend "Chips" may fairly be enumerated. He was a true Pakeha Maori, a race now fast disappearing from amongst us. He had a great reputation amongst the Natives, for two reasons—one was his skill in building and mending boats and other vessels, he being a ship's carpenter by trade; and the other his no less ability, according to them, of patching up human craft. As a doctor he gained great fame, and no doubt the faith with which his prescriptions were taken tended in no small measure to their success. "Chips" was not an old Peninsula resident, most of his life having been spent in the North Island. His whare was on Mr. Checkley's ground, near Green Point. The road, after leaving the Cemetery gates, was very rough, part of is being a narrow track on the edge of a considerable precipice, and how "Chips" managed to get home safely in the dark winter nights ig a mystery. On one occasion he did slip over, and fell a considerable distance, but was saved by clinging to the long grasses. The boat shed, where "Chips" works were, was only a few yards from the whare, but was on Government land, being within a chain of high water mark. It was a very primitive edifice, bat was spacious and well furnished, with a great variety, of the necessary tools., A visitor would generally find "Chips" at work here, and in no degree disinclined to enter into conversation. He was a very intelligent man, of fair education, and, as will be seen by his narrative, bad seen a great deal of the world,
Adolph F. Henrici, known familiarly as "Chips," was born at Hamburg His father, a respectable tradesman, wanted him to become a linen draper, but he had taken it into his head he would be a ship's carpenter, and, with the aid of a schoolfellow, he secretly visited an old ship's carpentar on Sundays, from whom he learnt the trade, His father was still more displeased at an attachment he formed with a young girl in the neighbourhood, and there was a separation, "Chips" going his first sea trip in the year
About this time Bloody Jack came on a visit to Te Hapuka, a great Maori warrior living in the vicinity, who, though not of a high Maori lineage, had raised himself to be a "Rangitiera nui "by his bravery and skill in warfare. Bloody Jack came across the straits from Akaroa in a big boat called the Mary Ann, which was the identical vessel for which he had sold the Peninsula to Hempleman. On leaving Ahuriri he presented the boat to his host, Te Hapuka. Now, this gift was not such a very great one after all, for the native vessel had fallen into terrible disrepair, and was perfectly useless without it was skilfully mended, an operation involving special knowledge. But Te Hapuka had seen what "Chips" could do, and in his difficulty had turned to him He had, of course, heard all about Tokomanu's sister, and knew "Chips" had no wife, and, being a wily savage of an economical turn, he offered to provide "Chips" with a female companion if he mended the boat, Three girls from Mohaka happened to be visiting at the pa, and he gave "Chips" his choice of the lot, Now this, to say the least of it, was a trifle arbitrary, for he had no right to either of them, and two were "tapu" to Maori chiefs, The third, who was the one "Chips" fancied most, was only "tapu" to a Native of no pretensions as to blue blood, residing at Mohaka. However, Te Hapuka didn't care whether he had a right to them or not; he wanted his boat mended, and "Chips" wanted someone to look after his whare and cook for him, so the bargain was concluded, "Chips" selecting the young lady who waa betrothed to the Maori of "low degree." It will thus be seen that "Chips" gained his wife by repairing the boat for which Banks Peninsula was sold to Hempleman!
Now, the Maori to whom "Chips'" wife had been bet othed was exceedingly wroth, and so were all the rest of the family; but "Chips" did not care for this, being protected by the powerful Te Hapuka, and by and by
"Chips, lived at Mohaka for many happy years. He had plenty of work, for the stations along the coast wanted whaleboats to ship off their wool to the small craft that used to eome to fetch it, and the small vessels also wanted repairing, His family increased rapidly, and the pa as a whole was very prosperous. The Natives, however, had one fear—they were on bad terms with the Uriwera tribe, that lived further inland, in a wild and almost inaccessible country, and, were afraid of being taken by surprise. Some of them used to sleep in a pass some distance away from the pa every night, in order to give warning of their enemies' approach, and the pas were strongly fortified. A few white people were now living on the Mohaka, and when the news came of the Maori war in the North, and the Waikatos announced their intention of killing the Queen's Maoris'and whites along that part of the East Coast, the Government put. up a substantial blockhouse at the mouth of the Mohaka, and sent some ammunition there, and a few troopers to defend it. There were two pas, both well fortified. As is the Maori custom, they were perched on the highest ground in the
Haus were on them. "Chips"' brave old father in-law came to him and said, "You must go and take your youngest boy with you, or his mother will go mad. It is better for you to go at all hazards, for they are sure to kill all the white men, but may spare the Maoris. I will remain here with the other children " "Chips" had some difficulty in persuading any one to accompany him in the boat, for the sea was very rough,. and they were afraid of being drowned. At last one of his daughters, a white man who had been working for him, and two Natives got into the boat with him and his boy, and they got safe to sea. The white man was half dead with fright, and pulled so badly that "Chips'" daughter gave him the baby boy to hold, and took the oar herself. After warning people on the coast, they reached Napier in safety and gave the alarm.
After killing all the people on the plantation, the Hau Haus divided into two parties, one going down each side of the river. Their progress was one of blood. A Mr. Leven, a white settler, and his wife and three children were first killed; the next victims were a Mr. Cooper and a lame shepherd. Seven whites were thus added to the list of murders, but the more they killed the more blood thirsty they seemed to be. Arriving at the smaller pa, the one situated at the brink of the precipice, they assailed it with the greatest fury. A number of men, by cutting holes for their toes in the clay and soft rock, scaled the height, the projecting palisading saving them from the guns of their foes. Once at the fence they soon made an impression on it and the defenders of the pa being called upon to open the gates, and promised quarter, admitted the enemy. They first demanded that all arms should be given up, and killed several men. Hatea, a Native who worked far "Chips" on being called to give up his gun, refused, and Te Kooti immediately aimed at him, Hatea returning the compliment; both fired together, but unluckily Te Kooti escaped with a ball through his leg, while poor Hatea fell dead. The Hau Haus next tried to fire the chureh, whieh was a raupo building. Strange to
"Chips" went to live at Pakowhai again, and after a time was persuaded to go to Lake Taupo to build some boats for Mr. Ormond, who was then superintendent. His daughter Anna had run away from home and come to Akaroa, and on a visit to her father she spoke in such high terms of the place that he determined to come and live here, so some thirty six years ago he came. Both he and bis wife were much respected by the Maoris, and much loved by their children.
Here is the name of another celebrated old identity. Dr. Moore arrived in this Colony by the Sir George Pollock, about the year 1851, and bought land in Charteris Bay, where he settled; but, not being up to the rough and-tumble life of a colonist, he was finally obliged to sell out to the present owner, Mr. R, R, Bradley, the whole of his interest in that Bay. He afterwards settled in Christchurcb, and devoted himself to his profession, where he would undoubtedly have reached the height of his ambiiion, but death stepped in, and he died suddenly about fifty-two years since. He was a man of bright intellect, with which he adorned his profession to such a degree that if any case seemed hopeless, the cry was always, "Send for Dr, Moore; if he can't do you good, no one can."
On bis arrival in this country, and with the intention, as above noted, of turning farmer, he brought with him four celebrated cows, that have since left the stamp on many of the herds of cattle on the Peninsula. The late Mr. R. Rhodes, in particular, owed not a little to the bull Brother Phil for the improvement of his stock at Ahuriri and Kaituna. The names of the imported cows were Flash, Duchess, Creamy and Old Dunny (an Alderney). Mr. Rhodes purchased Flash at the doctor's sale, and also Brother Phil, and remnants of their stock could for years afterwards almost be traced in the late Mr. T, H. Parkinson's herd. About forty two years ago, when a person had a beast to sell, and could only say that it had been bred from Dr. Moore's stock, it was thought quite enough to establish its quality. One person really did obtain possession of a female-calf, the doctor being obliged to part with it instead of wages; but on the whole, like most wise breeders, he was very careful about parting with his female stock. The doctor's cattle eventually became a mixed lot, but such was the celebrity of the above named imported cattle, that any
About the years 1858 aad 1859 a great many new settlers came to New Zealand, and of these not a few came to the Peninsula, more particularly the passengers by the barque Indiana and the ship Clontarf, most of whom settled in the various Bays of the Peninsula. Amongst these we may mention Messrs G. J, Checkley, Joseph Bates, Kennedy, and S. and J. Hunt. Some of these new settlers went to dairy farming, others to bush work. Few had much capital to start with, and most of them are now comparatively prosperous men—thanks to their energy, and the splendid timber, capital soil, and good climate of our Peninsula. The timber was then to be found everywhere in very large quantities, and the climate was more humid in consequence. Its removal has largely increased the droughts in summer, and old settlers think that planting should be largely carried on, to mitigate the extreme heat of the sun, which now burns up the bare hills for several months in the year
One gentleman, Mr. F. Moore, left the barque Indiana in Lyttelton, in the year 1858, with a very small capital, which he, like a good many more, speedily got rid of. not seeing at the moment what he was to do in New Zealand. He came down to the Peninsula, and joined Mr. Triba's gang in the French Farm Bay, cutting blocks for the old Government buildings, piles for the Lyttelton jetty, firewood, etc., at "which employment he was occupied nearly two years. Very jolly was the life led by these bush fellows in the old days. Many of them had been delicately nurtured and well brought up, but they turned to with a will, and found that they could do hard work as well as those to the manner born. Their hard-won earnings were, however, in most eases speedily disposed of. They used to work like slaves for a month or two, and then go to Akaroa and knock it down in a few days. Mr. Gibbs kept the principal hotel, which was the one now known as Bruce's. He was a decent fellow, with a large corporation,
Mr. Tribe rented the Government bush in French Farm, and employed a great many men. He was universally respected, but, in spite of all his enterprise, he never (through a series of misfortunes) succeeded in making the fortune he thoroughly deserved. At one time he was burnt out in Lyttelton, and afterwards took the Central Hotel in Christchurch. He eventually found his way to the West Coast diggings, when he was returned as a member for the General Assembly, and did much good for the community he represented, and was as generally beloved by the diggers as he bad been on the Peninsula.
When Mr. Tribe gave up French Farm, Messrs. Keegan and Wilkin bought a spot of ground on the south side of Akaroa Harbour, now the property of Messrs. Porter Bros, Mr. Moore went over with them, and stopped for a year. At this time Mr. Townsend was traversing the Peninsula on the survey. He was joined by Mr Moore, who stopped with him six months, and afterwards went with him up north.
At the time the big works were going on in French Farm, Mr. Shadbolt took the Head of the Bay Hotel, and succeeded in it most admirably. His predecessor was a Mr. John Anderson (a Russian Fin), and in his time there were high jinks at the Head of the Bay, for in those days timber was worth twenty-two shillings per hundred feet, and the sawyers made their money very easily, and spent it as freely as they got it.
A gentleman named Dicken resided in French Farm before Mr. Tribe came there He was a dairy farmer, and a good deal of the land there belonged to him. One day, in the year 1857, he left the house without saying where he was going, taking his horse with him. When night came he did not return, but his dog came back, and a search was instituted, which lasted for many weeks. His horse was discovered tied up in the supplejacks, but no trace or tidings of the missing man himself have ever been discovered to the present day. Mr. Dicken was very
There were many narrow escapes in those days, particularly to those engaged in boating. On one occasion, at Christmas time, Mr. Townsend sent a boat's crew to Waikerakikari from Akaroa. It came on to blow fiercely from the south-west, and the crew had to put into Lucas Bay, where they laid that night. There was a keg of rum in the boat, and before midnight they were drinking it out of the heel of an old boot. Next morning they resolved to start, though it was still blowing very bard from the south west. Jack Miller was the steer oarsman, and he kept the men in good heart, In spite of the heavy seas and furious wind, they managed all right till they got near a reef that runs out near Waikerakikari shore. Here the sea was running furiously over the reef, and they had to wait for over two hours before Miller gave the word to pull across. When he did he said "Pull, and pull like h—l, boys!" and so they did pull, and just as the boat cleared the reef the rowers saw the bare rocks staring up abaft It was a marvellous escape; another moment and the boat must have been dashed to pieces, and all on board drowned, for no one could have swum in such a sea; and had it not been for the iron nerve and quick eye of Miller, none would have lived to tell the tale.
There is a very picturesque bay on Lake Forsyth named after the subject of this memoir, who was well known all over the Peninsula as a dealer in stock. He was a man of a great variety of trades, up to anything, and was much liked by many in the early days. He once kept the Canterbury Hotel, in Lyttelton, and afterwards (in conjunction with D. Taylor) purchased a run near Taumutu, at the head of Lake Ellesmere. It is said he was born in Smithfield, close to the celebrated market, and he used to boast that be had been connected with stock since his birth, for that reason, He went to Sydney in 1849, and came to Canterbury rn 1853. It was about 1860 that he purchased the run previously mentioned, and entered extensively into cattle dealing, a pursuit which made him known in every corner of the Peninsula, from which he drew no small portion of his supplies.
The great event in his life happened later. He arranged with Mr. William Wilson, of Christchurch, familarly known as "Cabbage Wilson," to enter into a speculation for buying a large number of cattle in Nelson and Marlborough, and taking them to Dunedin, where they were scarce. Mr. Wilson found the money, and the large drove was collected north and driven south, where they were disposed of at a large profit, the purchase money exceeding £2000. Hia instructions were to bank this money in Dunedin, where he received it, but this he did not do. He returned from Dunedin with the money in his pocket, in company with Mr. H. Prince, and when they arrived at the Waitaki, the boundary river between Otago and Canterbury, he tried to make an arrangement with one of the men that when they were crossing the river they should create a disturbance amongst the dogs, so that a stock whip might be used, and in the scuffle a carpet bag he carried, supposed to contain the money, might be lost overboard. The man in question agreed, and when they were crossing the river the plan was carried out, but, unluckily for Caton, a passenger rescued the carpet bag before it
You want to know when Te Wherowhero came here. I will tell you, for I was one of the first to see him. Our interview came about in a strange manner. I was on my way from Port Lsvy to the Maori village at Pigeon Bay, which was situated close to where the steam wharf is now, 1 was accompanied by another Maori, named Hapakuku. On nearing Mr Hay's house we became aware that our movements were being attentively watched by several Europeans. My companion grew rather nervous when he found this out, and wished to turn back. He was too familiar with the dark doings of our own people in former times, not to suspect the white men of some evil design against us. I laughed at his fears, for I had mixed enough with white men to know he had nothing to apprehend from them As we drew nearer I recognised the Akaroa policeman, who was a friend of mine, and then was able to assure my companion of our perfect safety under his protection. When we got up to the Pakehas they all shook hands with us, and then the policeman asked us whether we knew anything about a boat that was then sailing up the harbour. We told him that it was not a Maori boat, and that we had noticed it entering the Heads from the south as we descended the hill. The white men then talked together, when the policeman told us that one of his companions was the mate of a whaling ship anchored in Akaroa Harbour, that six of the crew had run off during the night with one of the boats, that they had come in search of the deserters, and that if we would help to capture them we should be liberally rewarded. They believed that the approaching boat contained the missing men. We consented to assist them, and were told to keep about on the beach, while they retired to a neighbouring settler's house, where we saw them watching the boat with a spy-glass through the half open door. The boat made at first for the Maori pa, but the crew seemed
The impression sure to be produced by the heading of this story will be, that it is simply a hoax which no amount of testimony can substantiate, for it must seem incredible in a country where such reptiles are unknown, that a snake hunt ever took place in the immediate vicinity of Akaroa. But the story will not appear so improbable when it is known that several attempts were made in the "early days," by visitors to these shores, to acclimatize snakes; and the presence of the reptile found and killed in these parts was doublessly due to the ill judged zeal of one of those insane naturalists, who, regardless of all consequences, seemed determined to solve the question whether snakes could exist in New Zealand. Mrs. Tikao's story is as follows:—"We had often listened with eager interest to the stories told by our countrymen of their narrow escapes from being bitten by serpents; and the accounts they gave of the deadly effect of snake bite only served to deepen our hereditary aversion to all reptiles. You can imagine the commotion and excitement caused by the reported discovery of a snake on the shores of the harbour. It was found by a coloured man named Jim, wbo lived for a long time with the Maoris at Takapuheke, near the Red House. He was a sober, industrious man, and highly respected by us. Having gone for some reason to O Tipua —the promontory between Akaroa and German Bay—he was startled by the discovery of unmistakable signs of a snake's presence. The spot where the discovery occurred was close to the cliff used by the men of war frequenting the harbour as a target. He hurried back at once to warn everyone against going near the place. He told the Maoris not to approach the place even for the shell fish found only at low water. There was no need to repeat the warning, for we were all too much alarmed to venture anywhere near O Tipua, and already in imagination we
In the article entitled "French Farm and the Survey," brief mention is made of the mysterious disappearance of Mr. Dicken, of French Farm, but merely a few words were given, and it is therefore with much pleasure that we are able to lay before our friends a clear and detailed account, that was furnished our informant by Mr. Edwin Silk, who was, at the time Mr Dicken disappeared, renting some land from him, in conjunction with Mr. Tribe. It appears that in the summer of 1857 Mr Dicken and Mr. Silk went out one morning to look after some stray cattle. They went over a lot of country in the neighbourhood of French Farm, and got home unsuccessful at 4 p.m. Mr. Dicken then declared his intention of searching for the missing stock on the Barry's Bay fern hills He accordingly went out on his pony, refusing the company of Mr Silk, who offered to go with him. He had a collie slut following him. When evening came, and Mr. Dicken did not come back, Messrs Tribe and Silk were both anxious, for the roads were very bad, and they feared he might have had a fall They therefore got out the dingy, and pulled to the Head of the Bay Hotel, which was then kept by Anderson, in order to find out if anything had been seen of Mr. Dicken there. Finding on their arrival that he had not gone in that direction, they went to Barry's Bay. Mr. Tribe had brought a cornet that he was in the habit of playing with him, and when they got to the Barry's Bay hills he made them ring again, but to their mortification and dismay there was no response, and they had to return home.
Next morning they renewed their search in the flax and scrub that were on the edge of the bush that fringed the Barry's Bay fern hills. At last, in a pig track, they saw the marks of the pony's feet, and following the trail they came to the pony himself. He was tied to a flax bush, but so lightly that the least pull would have set him loose. There, however, he had evidently stayed since the previous night, and further observations showed Mr. Dicken's own
Just, a fortnight after Mr. Dicken's disappearance, Mr. Silk was at the back of the house at French Farm, washing his clothes, when, looking round, what was his astonishment to see Mr Dicken's slut crawling up to him. She was a mass of skin and bone, and must have been fasting during the whole of her absence, and she crawled up to him in that guilty way which dogs have when they know they have done wrong. Her hair was matted and stained with red clay, and this struck him as most remarkable, as there was no red clay to be found in the neighbourhood of Barry's Bay, the nearest being some miles away.
Mr. Silk gave the signal agreed on, and three boat loads of men came over from Akaroa, and they took the slut to
Among the more remarkable men who from time to time have led isolated lives on the Peninsula, one called Harry Head may be mentioned, who, some forty-five years ago took up his residence in Waikerakikari. Previous to his arrival this Bay had been quite untenanted, as it was covered by dence bush, and almost inaccessible both from land and sea. It appears that it was for these very reasons that Head selected it for his abiding place. He chose a Government section in the valley near the beach, and put up a shanty, which he roofed with tree ferns. Here he lived all by himself, and friends who visited him on rare occasions used to find him industriously occupied in the bush or his garden, in a very primitive garment, consisting of a sack in which holes had been cut for his arms and head. At certain intervals he used to tire of this Robinson Crusoe kind of existence, and visit the residents of the neighbouring Bays in very scant clothing. In his habits he was almost a wild man, and it is said he had lived long amongst the North American Indians. Instead of riding with an ordinary bridle, he preferred the Indian fashion of a string turned round the horse's lower jaw. This string used to be composed of coloured strands, Indian fashion He was credited with the power of long abstinence from food. He has been known several times to start to walk from Akaroa to Christchurch with nothing but a little sugar in his pockets, his only clothing being some home made trousers and a blanket, which on grand occasions he used to encircle at the waist with a gaudy parti coloured cord and tassels.
Harry Head was a great lover of music, and used to play simple melodies by ear on the piano, when occasion offered Strange to say, however, the instrument he loved most was the drum, which he used to aver was capable of great expression, as well as power. He was also an excellent performer on the banjo. Once on a time he had almost resolved to abjure his
He was the first man who took stock into Waikerakikari. He purchased a number of calves, and got a gentleman to assist him in driving them there, a difficult task indeed in those times, when there was no track and a dense bush all the way A start was effected at six one morning, and his companion had to go about two miles out of the road to satisfy Head by seeing a group of Nikau palms. At last, after a lot of trouble, they arrived at their destination, and it being most sultry weather, the dwelling house was found to be a very suitable one, and fit for the Astronomer Royal, being open to the stars of heaven. The whare in which his visitors slept was composed of weather-boards, was about eight feet square, and was a regular old curiosity shop, being filled with all sorts of knicknacks and curios he used to pick up on his visits to Christchurch and other places.
One of his strangest notions was that, with properly manufactured appliances, human beings would be able to fly. He gave much attention to this hobby, and even ventilated the subject in public in the Old Country, after leaving the Peninsula. He once paid a Visit to the West Coast and on his return walked back over the ranges at the rate of some fifty miles a day. This, however, seemed to entirely cure him of any desire for future rambles on foot, for it was his last pedestrian feat He eventually returned to England, and astonished his friends there by his remarkable costume and strange style, and no doubt they were heartily glad when he announced his intention of proceeding to his old home in America. He was afterwards (to the best of our informant's belief) located at Dacotah, where his primitive habits appeared to have enabled him to withstand the effects of the terrible seasons,
From Mr. W. Masefield we further learn that Head's real name was Alexander, and that he was the son of a bookseller, who had him well educated. He was an excellent mathematician, and a fair Greek scholar, besides understanding a good deal of botany. The latter was much cultivated by him during his sojourn on the Peninsula, and he was constantly in correspondence with Dr. Haast. From his youth he had strange fanceis, and, when young, slept a night at Stonehenge, on what is known as the vertical monument, in the hope that mysterious dreams would come to him from the forgotten past. The dead Druids, however, made no sign, and a cold was the only result.
He was born at Chippenham, in Wiltshire, and, on leaving England, went to America, and joined a party to the Rocky Mountains. He had a great admiration for the North American Indians. He afterwards went to Vancouver Island, and thence worked his passage Home in a lumber ship, which made the longest passage on record. After a brief spell at Home he came out to Australia, and was at the diggings for some time He walked over a great part of Australia, and applied to join the Burke and Willis expedition, but was too late. He there formed an acquaintance with Baron Von Muller, with whom he used to correspond upon botanical subjects. After a time he came across to New Zealand, and walked over the North Island, and then came across to Nelson, and from there continued his pedestrian expedition to Christchurch He was one of the first men to cross the range. He afterwards came to the Peninsula, to Le Bon's Bay, and saw Mr. Cuff there, and wanted to get some land; but Mr. Cuft told him it was all his. He then went Home again, and after a short stay came again to New Zealand, and was at the Otago diggings, being one of the first at Gabriel's Gully, and did well there. He had, however,
He bought a piece of land where Mr. Lelievre's house now stands, at Fisherman's Bay. He sold it after some time to Mr. Lelievre, and bought a place in Paua Bay. He had a whare there, and locked it up one day to go to Christchurch. When he got to Christchurch, however, he made up his mind to go to England, and when he came to his whare, long after, he found the place was broken open, and his things gone. He then sold the land to Mr. Narbey, and went on to Mr. Townsend's survey party, and helped to cut the present line from Barry's Bay to Little River. He then bought land in Waikerakikari
He was a splendid hand in the bush. Unlike an ordinary mortal, it was his practice to go in a beeline from one place to another, utterly regardless of tracks. He never lost his way, and used to accomplish long distances in a wonderfully brief period He once started to carry a tub from Barry's Bay to Waikerakikari through the bush. He had it on his head, and it struck against the branches of a tree, hitting him so smartly on the head that he remained unconscious for many hours. When he left the Peninsula he had fully £500 in his possession, and when he reached England he increased his capital by lecturing on philosophical subjects. With a very powerful and acute mind, but of exceedingly erratic temperament, Harry Head narrowly missed being a great man.
In 1913 Harry Head was still alive, being in residence in Australia, though still retaining his peripatetic habits. He paid a visit to Akaroa about 1905, when he was the guest of Mr V. V. Masefield. He has lived to see one of his dreams realised—that of men being able to fly. It is interesting to note that nearly fifty years ago Harry Head broke his arm in trying one of his roughly made æroplanes.
The well known ketch Crest, Captain Ellis, left Akaroa one Sunday evening in October, 1868, loaded with telegraph poles, for a port north of Kaiapoi. She had on board Captain W. A. Ellis, master and part owner; J. B. Barker, part owner; Edward Cuningham, seaman; and Mr. W. Belcher, of the firm of Belcher & Fairweather, Kaiapoi, who was passenger and charterer. The weather was fine when the vessel started, and no one dreamed that anything had gone wrong till the following day about noon, when Mr. J. B. Barker arrived in Akaroa, and stated that the vessel was wrecked, and that he was the only person who had escaped. He stated that he had managed to land in Flea Bay in the dinghy, and that he had told the Messrs. Rhodes, who resided there, of the catastrophe.
This news was, of course, looked upon as final, every one thinking that the rest of the persons aboard the ill fated Cresthad come to an untimely end. Later in the day, however, the startling news was brought that two of the Rhodes had gone out in anything but a safe boat, to view the locality in which the vessel had been reported to be lost, and had rescued Cunningham from a rock to which he had swum after Mr. Barker had left the vessel Cunningham informed the Messrs, Rhodes that Captain Ellisand Mr. Belcher were still alive and aboard the craft, and several attempts were made by the Messrs. Rhodes to rescue them, but they were totally unavailing as the wreck had drifted into a cave, over a considerable distance of kelp covered shallow reefs, upon, which even in the calmest weather the sea broke fearfully. Cunningham stated Ellis could have escaped as he did, by swimming, but refused to leave Belcher, who could not swim.
As can be imagined, this created great excitement in Akaroa, and boats manned by volunteers were at once despatched to the scene of the wreck in the hope of saving the unfortunate castaways. The weather remained moderate, and for three days every plan that could be thought of was tried to rescue the unfortunates, but without avail. The
Captain Schenkel, of the Prince Alfred, was unremitting in his attempts, and devised many schemes to save the castaways, but they were all frustrated by the unrelenting ocean, which appeared determined to prevent either the entrance of the rescuers, or the exit of the unwilling explorers from the gloomy cavern.
The poor fellows were plainly to be seen, and their cries could be heard by those who were risking their own lives in the attempt to save them. They had rigged two pieces of rope from the roof of the cave, to which they fastened a board, and when the tide began to flow, they had to sit on this board to prevent themselves being washed away. At high water the mouth of the cave was covered with the surging water, the scene being described by the eye-witnesses as terrible in the extreme.
For three days this fearful suspense continued, but on the boats going out on the fourth morning, the cave was discovered to be vacant. No doubt weakened by continuous suffering, thoroughly exhausted, and unable to hold on any longer, they must have been washed away during the night.
Words cannot portray, nor imagination conceive, what these poor fellows must have suffered before succumbing. Without food or water, buffetted by the waves, to see help so near and yet of no avail—it is dreadful, even at this length of time, to contemplate their terrible sufferings.
The sympathies of everyone in Akaroa were strained to the utmost by the fearful suspense, and never before or since has Green Point been watched with such intensity as for the appearance of boats with news regarding the calamity. Our informant states that he hopes never again to feel the fearful anxiety which he experienced during the time the attempts at rescue were being made.
Captain Ellis was well known throughout the district, and was universally respected. A tablet to his memory is to be seen in St. Peter's Church, Akaroa. It was placed there by the Oddfellows, of which society he was a member. Mr. Belcher, as before stated, was a resident of Kaiapoi, where he was much esteemed. The calamity threw a gloom over the whole Peninsula.
The tablet erected in St. Peter's Church to the memory of Captain Ellis bears the following inscription:—"This tablet is erected by the Oddfellows, M.U., of this district, to the memory of Captain William Ellis, aged 43 years, who perished through the wreck of the ketch Crest, near the north head of this harbour, on October 29, 1868."
In the long gully that runs up to the reserve from the back of the former site of Joblin's mill, now a part of Mr. Montgomery's estate, in the Western Valley, Little River, there was a comfortable whare of the old type in a very snug corner by the creek side, which the winds passed by and the morning sun shined on. Here with his son dwelt Mr. Phillip Ryan, one of those Peninsula pioneers whose life had been one long struggle in the van of colonisation. He was a man of fine presence, and must have possessed great strength in his time. Even after a long and toilsome life that had nearly reached ninety years, he was full of intelligence, and by no means wanting in bodily as well as mental vigour. He lived up the hill with his son, who is a half caste, Mr Ryan having married a Maori woman many years ago, who was his good and faithful wife till death came. He was born in Ireland in 1802, and his father was in the Commissariat Department of the British Army during the Peninsula War. To Lisbon he went with his mother very early io the nineteenth century, and his early years were spent in following the movements of the gallant men whom Wellington eventually led to victory. It was only a month before Waterloo that he returned with his family to England.
On August 9th, 1840, which was a glorious day, Mr. Ryan saw a man of war s boat pulling into the bay at Oashore, and a lieutenant soon landed, and, coming up to the house, asked him if be could give any information regarding the Comte de Paris. The Lieutenant told him he belonged to a British vessel of war named the Britomart Ryan told the Lieutenat that a man named "Holy Joe" (the same mentioned by James Robinson Clough) had come over the hill that morning and could give all the news "Holy Joe" told the Lieutenant that the Comte de Paris had been in Pigeon Bay, and that some of her people had landed, and had cut their names in the trees in that locality —now known as Holmes' Bay,—but that no French flag had been hoisted, and there seemed to be no intention to land anything from the ship. This was all the news Joe could give; and as it was late the lieutenant and his crew stopped at Ryan's house that night, and left at 4 a.m. so as to be back in Akaroa at the ship by 8 a.m. There were boats ready to intercept the Comte de Paris if she had attempted to enter Akaroa Harbour, and a party went over the hills to Pigeon Bay, led by some Maori guides, to see no landing was effected there, and no French flag hoisted. At noon on the 10th the flag was formally hoisted by Captain Stanley, who was in command of the Britomart, and a formal proclamation made by Mr. Robinson, the Government agent on board, taking possession of the South Island in the name of Her Majesty the Queen. It was Mr. Robinson who conducted all the subsequent transactions with the French, and Mr. Ryan spoke of him as a most able and kindly man. The guns fired to salute the newly hoisted standard were distinctly heard at Piraki, Oashore and Ikoraki, the wind being light, and the day exceedingly fine. After that season Ryan went to Port Levy, Mr. Waller having failed.
Thence he started a fishery at Motonau on his own account; but that was a failure, and so he came back to Port Levy, where he lived many years, being engaged sawing most of the time with Tom White. He went two trips to America during this period, and one to Napier as mate of a brig, and in this latter excursion had the misfortune to break his leg. He used to carry the mail to Akaroa through the bush, and said he thought the trees on the way would not be cleared for a hundred years; but they are all gone now. The mail then used to go once every two or three months, when a ship came in. The steamers then began coming about, and the whalers deserted the coast. Besides, whale oil fell in price, and so from all these causes the whale fishery was, in a great measure, discontinued. Ryan remembered Mr. Fleming's first arrival in Port Levy. He came out in the Sir George Seymour, one of the first four ships, and he and Mr Arthur Waghorn of Little Akaloa, walked over the hills. Ryan said they had good clothes on when they started, but in their passage through the bush these had been torn all to pieces, and they were in tatters on arrival. Tom White came to Ryan, and asked him to entertain them, as his whare was so very untidy, because he had so many youngsters about; and so Ryan did. Ryan was the first man who sawed timber in Little River. He worked with an Australian native, named Green. Ryan was a cooper by trade, and it was that which made him so important at the whale fisheries. Mr. Ryan was very anxious to correct an error in the first edition of the "Banks Peninsula Stories", which stated that James Robinson Clough was American. He said he knew him well and all about his family, and he was a native of Lincoln, England. Mr. Ryan declared that the Maoris of the Peninsula were an amicable and honest lot of people, who never harmed anyone materially. He declared that the greatest violence ever offered was to take the tobacco, and perhaps part of the clothing of a run-away sailor, but says that, even then, they never allowed their victim to go hungry.
The old gentleman was cooking whilst the writer was
Mr. Thomas White, though he must have been over 80 years of age at the time the writer compiled this, was then very hale and hearty, and lived with his son, Mr. George White, in their pleasant home at the head of Holmes' Bay Like many of our pioneers, he was an old sailor, and also a whaler, and in his long acquaintance with the Peninsula had seen it advance from a Maori populated resort of occasional whalers to the pleasant home of 5000 Europeans. Mr. White was an American, having been born at Rhode Island. He became an orphan at a very early age, his father being killed in one of the Mexican wars, and his mother dying, and his youthful days were spent under the roof of a friend of his dead parents. Rhode Island, as many people know is a great place for shipping, and at 14 Mr. White went to sea. He learnt the ropes in several uneventful voyages, the only part of which he seemed to dwell upon being a quarrel with the mate of a whaler at Rio Janeiro, which ended in his being left at that port, whence he shipped to England, arriving on the Thames on the very day of King William the Fourth's coronation. He shipped in a London whaler called the Timour, and in her he spent three years, one of his shipmates being our own Billy Simpson, who was afterwards in the Akaroa Hospital. The first part of New Zealand he visited was the Bay of Islands, to which place he came from England in a whaler called the Achilles. He left her at this place, and went to Sydney in the Sir William Wallace In Sydney he joined another whaling brig, called the Genii, and spent thirteen months in her on the New Zealand coast. His next vessel was the Caroline, belonging to Johnny Jones, of Otago, and on her being sold in Sydney he came to Waikaouiti in a brig commanded by Captain James Bruce, as a passenger. This vessel landed twenty three horses, which were amongst the first brought to this colony. From Waikaouiti he went to Otago, and was there engaged by Paddy Wood to go fishing at Oashore, and lived at that place
During this time Bloody Jack's men killed a North Island boy, but otherwise all was quiet the whaling being very profitable sometimes, and an exceedingly poor game others Went to Port Levy, and from there made a journey to Riccarton for food, getting fifteen bushels of wheat from a store deposited by Gilbert and Harridge. At this time there were only two Maoris in Port Levy and none in Pigeon Bay, but they kept coming in their sea going canoes, many being from the North Island, and soon there were quite strong settlements at both places.
An old man named Jack Duff sold some bone and had money in his possession about this time, and mysteriously disappeared His wife last saw him in the company of a Spaniard and a man known as "Flash Harry." Provisions were very dear at times, twenty five dollars being sometimes given for a barrel of flour The Maoris as a whole were good to the whites, and Bloody Jack himself was a very good fellow indeed. Once he came to White's house and demanded food. It was given him of course, and a short time after a hog was sent as a present in return.
At Port Levy Mr. White married, and soon began to have a family around him. A tragedy took place when his son Harry was a baby. A Dutch whaling ship put into Port Levy, and the carpenter and several others deserted. The third mate made himself very active in arresting the men; and caught two, and got them back to the ship. The carpenter came to White's house, and the mate after him. White was on the verandah with Harry, the baby, in his arms, and the carpenter and two runaways were sitting at a table inside the house. The mate ordered the carpenter aboard, but, instead of obeying, he shot him through the heart with a pistol that was in his possession. Word was sent to Wellington, but the ship was away before any steps were taken, and so nothing was done. Had the doctor of the ship remained behind, no doubt the man would have been hung.
The Natives used to travel over the hills easily in those days of no roads. White has known a party to take two
This old identity has a most interesting history, for particulars of which we are indebted to the Dunedin Evening Star. His narrative is as follows:—
"I was born in Bristol on the 3rd June, 1815, about a fortnight before Waterloo was fought. There is the entry, in the Bible, in ray father's handwriting. He was a captain in the navy—this is his portrait in his uniform—and owing to his position, I was placed as a youngster in the upper school at Greenwich, a school for the sons of naval officers. As soon as I was old enough I went to sea, joining a brigantine that was trading to the Mediterranean for fruit, and the first work I ever did was to handle a ballast shovel. In this ship we mede trips not only to the Mediterranean, but also to Portugal and Spain and we were for some time running to Newfoundland. I next joined His Majesty's brig, the Snake, as a middy, and went away in her to the Brazilian coast, where she was employed by Admiral Seymour in chasing pirates and slavers. The Admiral was there in the partiate, his headquaters being Rio. My next experience was a voyage to the Colonies. I joined a ship that was bringing a batch of male convicts, shipped at Sheerness, and bound for Tasmania, or Van Dieman's Land, as it was then called. Since then I have never left the Colonies. I got clear of the vessel in Sydney, and came from that port to New Zealand. This is as much as you need to know of my early life, which was a lively one, as you may guess; but of course what you want to know is what took place after I came to New Zealand. Well! I'll tell you.
"I came to Otago in a brig named the Micmac, and landed at Otago on the 17th March, 1836 (St. Patrick's Day). The very day after we landed, we killed a couple of fair sized whales right up in the harbour. They were the first whales I ever saw killed. The boats were not away more than twenty minutes before they had them both, and they were killed in a twinkling. And I want to say here that we had two white women on board. Make mention of
"But I am getting off my course. I was going to tell you how I came here. This brig that I came in, her captain was a Welshman—I forget her name. I think he owned the vessel: he did so far as we knew. A whaler? No, she wasn't a whaler; she was a merchant vessel, loaded up with a general cargo for the Wellers' place. No, I don't suppose you do much about the Wellers; but they were big people in those days, as you may believe when 1 tell you that they had then twelve vessels whaling for them. There were two brothers: one was George, and the other was named Edward, or it may have been Edwin, I am not sure which. They had the only store in the place anywhere about these parts, and a pretty big store it was. It was in the harbour—Otago Harbour it was called; what you call the Lower Harbour now. No! the store was not exactly on the Heads. It was on the point next to what is now known as Harrington's Point, close to
"No, that was not the only whaling station on this part of the coast, Afterwards there were stations at Waikouaiti and at the mouth of the Taieri, and to the north there were stations at Timaru and Banks Peninsula, which used to be a famous place for whales in those days But those stations were all planted after my time. If you want to know which was the first whaling station in this part of the country, I should it was the one at Preservation Inlet. I have heard so. That was a very old one. The next one was at Otago, where I came to. Then came our place at Moeraki, and the season after we started they set up a station at Waikouaiti. Johnny Jones? No. No one had even heard of Johnny Jones then. The people that started whaling at Waikouaiti were Long, Wright, and Richards. They were Sydney merchants. They whaled one season and then they pitched it up—failed, I believe—and it was then that Johnny Jones came on the scene; he bought them out in Sydney, taking their boats, huts, slops, other stores, gear, try pots, and everything they had. Jones sent down the barque Magnet, under Captain James Bruce, to take possession. Bruce dropped his anchor in Waikouaiti Bay in the middle of the night, and before daylight had padlocked the storehouse and taken charge of everything
"But we must hold on. I am going on a bit too fast. I came down, as I was going to say, under engagement to the Wellers I and the others were under agreement to the firm for the whaling season, which, for bay whaling, reckoned from the middle of March to the middle of October. They kept me for shore work mostly, giving us all sorts of jobs in summer time, when, as I have said, there was no whaling. One of the things we did was to go to Purakanui to blast stones and put up a fishing station there. One of our head men was a Sydney native named Hughes, a really smart fellow either at shore work or in the boats, especially about whales. He had a fancy to leave the Wellers, and did so in the June or July after wa arrived. Two American vessels called in, and he went with them. One of these was named the Merrimac, and the other was the Martha. Captain Potter was master of the Martha. They were bound for Banks Peninsula after fish, and a rare good time of it they had. As I was told afterwards, they filled up in Piraki Bay just about as fast as the men could work. Well, when they were full they came our way again, bringing Hughes with them. He was all a go to have a try on his own hook. He had brought two boats with him and a complete fit out for starting a station, these things having been got from the Yankee ships, and he at once set about getting together a party from those of us who were willing to join. Our time with Mr. Weller was up in October as I have told you, and six of us agreed to go in with Hughes. We went round in boats to have a look at the place which he had selected, Moeraki Point, as the site for the station, and everyone could see at once that a better spot could not be wished for. There was good shelter, sound anchorage, a nobby landing, and plenty of wood, besides which Moeraki was a
"There were three partners in the affair: Hughes, a man named Thompson and Sivatt, a cooper. The cooper was a very important man in all whaling parties, for d'ye see, we always get the stayes down in 'shooks.' You know what shooks are? Yes, bundles of staves, and he had to rattle them together, and this took him all his time. I've seen any amount of those chaps that would put together their twenty tuns a day single handed. Well, as I was going to say, we were all on a 'lay.' You know what a lay is, I suppose? If you are on a 100th, when a hundred tons are got you get one, and whea you are on a lay they find you—that's the difference between a lay and going shares. If you are on shares you find yourself, but of course you get a bigger chance than in a lay. The men get different interests according to agreement. A pulling hand will get, say, one share, a steerer one and a half, and a headsman two shares—just as is agreed on. As I said, there were three partners in the spec, and the rest of us were on a lay—six of us white men and six Maoris that we brought with us from Otago, They were fine strapping fellows. We had our eyes open in getting them to join the party, You see, we got on very well with the Maoris, but there was just a chance that that state of things wouldn't last for ever, and it seemed to us that we had a double chance of securing a peaceful and quiet time by having these chaps with us. They were sons of chiefs, and if the worst did come we had them with us, don't you see?
"Hughes was the head man of our party. We sailed from Otago in the brig Magnet, Captain Bruce—the man I referred to a while ago; you must have heard of him; he died at Akaroa some time ago,—and we cast anchor just inside the point where the lighthouse now is on the day after Christmas, 1836. And a beautiful place it was! The bush was growing right down to the edge of the water,
"Everything was quiet and untouched by anyone; and
"There were very few Maoris here in Moeraki A small party (some nine, all told), under Tongatahara, lived at the point, but none of the present tribe were here. Tongatahara's people went to Akaroa soon after we came, and during our second season the tribe now living at Moeraki came from Kaiapoi: I mean, of course, the fathers and grandfathers of these Natives, only two or three of the old ones are left. Rauparaha had driven them from their original holdings. It is scarcely correct to call them a tribe, either; they were the remnants of five tribes or hapus—all that were left after Rauparaha's repeated massacres – and came down here to keep out of his road; since, although he had been badly beaten in Cloudy Bay, they lived in constant dread of his reappearance. It was about 1838 that the Maoris first came to Moeraki. They made the trip in canoes and one whaleboat, which they had picked up somewhere—a worn out old thing that some of the whalers had very likely cast off or given to them When we saw the fleet coming we hadn't the least idea what the purpose of the expedition was and you may guess that we were pleased to find out later on that the uninvited settlers were peaceably inclined. Of course we soon got to see a good deal of the Maoris, and we always got on very well with them.
"We started the first season with two boats, six oars in each, and our venture turned out very well. Whales were plentiful and not hard to take. They used to come right
"The life we led there was a jolly one. There was plenty of work, and fair pay for it, though we thought it rather hard that the vessels would give us no more than £14 a ton for the oil and ls a pound for the whalebone. These were carefully measured and weighed out on the beach before any of the stuff left us, and I can tell you we looked sharply after our own interests. The only thing that bothered us was that we hadn't too much of a change in tucker. We had a bit of beef at first—all salt, mind you—but that soon ran out, and then we lived on fish and kakas and pigeons, and for vegetables we had to fall back on fern root, with a few potatoes now and then, which we
"After the first season Hughes went over to Sydney for a trip. If I haven't told you before, you may as well write down here that Hughes died in Hampden somewhere about seven years ago, upwards of eighty years of age, and he was buried there. He was just the sort of man for early colonial life. He could do anything, and had seen everything there was to see this side of the world. His father had been a soldier, and came out as one of the guard over a batch of prisoners in one of the first convict ships that sailed for Sydney. Well, as I was saying, Hughes went for a trip to Sydney, and he brought back a couple of new boats with him, so that we had four to commence our second season with. That was a lively season. Whales were numerous again, and we got on very well. In the middle of our busiest time we had the back luck to have one of our new boats smashed—knocked to pieces without ever being fast to a whale. We were out one day, and hard at it, the boat in which I was being fast to a big fellow. He was properly handled, and was nigh about done, when another boat came up to put an iron into him. We could see that the whale was just dying—he was all of a tremble, and shooting about here and there—and we sang out to the other fellows to stand off; but I suppose they didn't hear us; at any rate they came up in a round about way, and were pretty close, when he suddenly made a rush right in their direction, and went clean over her, turning her over by sheer weight, and in a minute or two our brand new boat was floating about the
"There was nobody hurt. We picked up the men in the water, and they didn't think anything of the little affair. We didn't make such a precious fuss about a thing of that sort as people would nowadays. If they get a wet shirt they must go and see the doctor, or else die of fright. We had no doctors, and if we had we shouldn't have bothered them. I suppose you won't believe, but I give you my word that I've never tasted physic all my life, and never wanted it. But I must say that we were pretty lucky. We didn't have any serious accidents; losing our boat was the worst one, and none of our party were ever hurt. No, sir, we did not fall out and knock each other about. We had no rows at all. Do you know what kept things so quiet with us? We had no drink. It was an agreement that there should be none. Vessels that came here for oil had it with them, but we never allowed a drop to be put ashore. Now and again some of the boys had a nip when they went down to Weller's place at Otago; but that was a long way to go for a drink, and, besides, our men were a steady lot, and didn't care much about greg
"The third season we increased our party, and worked five boats. One was a seven oared boat, she was too long. That was a good season too, but whales were getting to be not quite so plentiful, and, to cut a long yarn short, they got scarcer and scarcer, until, after we had stuck together for five seasons, the game was hardly paying us. There was not enough to buy a suit of slops after a season's work; so I went out. The others kept on for some time, but I had had enough of it. Another man and me then started to run a whaleboat to Waikouaiti and Moeraki, bringing pigs, potatoes and other things from Otago. Weller's was still the only settlement there.
There was no such place as Dunedin; the name even was unknown. All round where Dunedin was afterwards built there was nothing but scrub, and it was a great place for pigs. Port Chalmers was then called Koputai.
"You were asking just now about the Maoris, and I may as well at this stage tell you something about them. In the early days there were, as I have said, none about the hills where Dunedin now stands, and not very many at Weller's place. But there was an important settlement at the Heads, where the Natives had a fortified pah, and another at Purakanui Did I know Taiaroa? Yes sir! I did; very well. Not the present Taiaroa, but his father, a regular thorough going Maori, who couldn't speak a word of English. He was much shorter than this Taiaroa, but a man of enormous strength. But he wasn't the head man among the Heads Maoris then—not by a long chalk. The principal man among them died soon after I got to Otago; it must have been the first season I was there. They called him Tattoo. That wouldn't be his proper name, but it was what we all called him. He was a man whose history ought to be written by some one. He was a noble fellow, a real natural chief. Though he had been to Sydney several times, he was in all respects a pure Maori in his ways, as well as in his appearance; but he was a superior stamp of a man, liked by everyone, and respected by all. He was always strangely quiet and dignified, and he had the manners of a gentleman. One could see that as he went about, he was always eager to understand everything he saw among the white men; but he would seldom ask—he seemed to be anxious to avoid bothering anyone with his questions; and he was never known to ask for anything. Besides, he never touched spirits, and he had a way of his own of enforcing obedience without arguing the point, and without using bad language. Poor fellow! He did not live to see an old age. He was still almost a young man when he sickened and died of consumption. I went to see him when he was sick, and just as I would have done for any decent man, I tried to find out what he wanted, and it struck me that a comfortable
"When Tattoo died, the next best man was Jacky White—Karitai was his proper name. He was a more important man than old Taiaroa, who, as I have said, or intended to say, was only of third rate importance then. What sort of people the Maoris were? Well! you may safely say that they were an industrious, decent living lot. They used to be great hands at fishing I have seen a dozen, and sometimes as many as twenty canoes, go out of a morning fishing for barracouta; and they would take the double canoes outside the Heads without fear of being blown off. Sometimes, too, they used to go in boats, when they could get them. As to drink, they did not often take it. It is a lie to say that they were a drinking crowd. Those engaged at Weller's were entitled, as well as the whites, to a gill of rum in the morning before going out; and d'ye you know what the Maoris did? They carefully bottled it off as they got it, and afterwards sold it to the white people at a little less than the price at the store. That's a fact, and I should like yon to print it. They never drank the rum themselves, but they were always ready to make a bargain with the white men for it. Yes, they were naturally business men rather than drinkers. You folk who get your ideas of what the Maoris are like from the poor specimens you see about towns have a wrong notion altogether of what they are like when left to themselves without contact with the white man.
"Another good thing about tne Maoris as I knew them was that they were very particular about their women. Infidelity on the part of either husband or wife was punishable with death, and among unmarried people the
"While I was going in and out among the Maoris an incident occurred, which will give you an idea of life among these people. Three American whalers were lying off Weller's place, having put in to refresh with wood and water
"As I have said, all the setters that I know of who were in Otago before me are either away or dead. The two eldest that I know of are Dick Driver, who was the first pilot in Otago, and now lives in Purakanui, and Mr. Apes, of Waikouaiti. The latter is coming down to see me, and have a chat about old times I had a visit from Captain Jackson Barry some time ago, and he wanted to
"Mr. Haberfiield's subsequent history has been full of adventures. As modestly told by himself, he altogether settled at Moeraki after he had been running a whaleboat for some time; and then, feeling rather restless, he shipped with Captain Cole on the schooner Rory O'More, which called at Moeraki on her way to Akaroa for a stock of pigs, to take up with other provisions to some American whalers that were lying there. This was a somewhat eventful trip. On arrival at Akaroa, she was engaged to convey to Wellington a prisoner who had been arrested for breaking into a store. The prisoner and the policeman (named Barry) and the witnesses were all to be taken up together. The schooner was owned by the well known Paddy Hood, and she had first to make a trip to his settlement at the northern end of the Ninety-mile beach, where the Little River empties itself, so as to get some provisions. On getting these aboard, she returned to Akaroa and picked up her party, which included an officer from a French man of war, who wanted to go to Wellington to make arrangements for victualling the vessel. There were altogether twenty three souls on board when the Rory O'More sailed for Wellington—a port she was not destined to reach, as she overran her reckoning in a fog, and got jammed in Palliser Bay, where she was beached to save life, it being found that she could not help going ashore. The men stopped behind long enough to save the cargo, and then set out to walk to Wellington, which they reached in three days. Captain Cole was not in charge of the scooner when she was wrecked, another master being shipped in his place.
"Mr Haberfield was three months in Wellington unable to get work, and scarcely able to obtain sufficient food, from which difficulty he was released by the opportune
She was never heard of again; but a vessel which came into Akaroa reported having seen a cutter answering to her description founder in a squall off the Kaikouras. She bad eleven men on board, amongst them the Brown mentioned previously as being concerned in the shooting affair at Weller's. The Levien, it may be noted, was bought by Bloody Jack (Tuawak) and Toby, of Ruapuke, from an Auckland man. Bloody Jack was drowned at Timaru while in charge of an expedition got up amongst the Southern Maoris to go north and fight Rauparaha, which expedition got no further than Banks Peninsula, and was then abandoned. The Levien then became the property of Toby and Kehu (a son of Bloody Jack). This Kehu (who was remarkable for having six toes on each foot) sailed with Haberfield, and left the cutter with him, having no confidence in Arnett. Kehu was afterwards drowned in endeavouring to cross Foveaux Strait in a whaleboat during a gale of wind."
These are only some of the many adventures which Mr. Haberfield could relate. He was engaged in seafaring for several years, and at last settled down to enjoy a peaceful old age.
Mr E. Hay, of Pigeon Bay, was one of the early pioneers, and the following particulars, kindly contributed by his son, Mr James Hay, are of interest:—
Mr Hay was married in Scotland in 1839, and immediately thereafter sailed for New Zealand, arriving in Wellington in February, 1840. Before leaving Scotland Mr Hay purchased land in the colony, to be chosen in the North Island on his arrival. It transpired, however, that the Government had not completed the purchase of land from the Maoris, who, naturally, resented settlement until they had received payment. The Natives, therefore, refused to allow Mr. Hay to settle, who, having been brought to this impasse, applied to Mr. Wakefield to have his land transferred to the South Island. This was eventually arranged. With the courage and enterprise of true pioneers Mr. Hay and Mr. Sinclair proceeded at once to build a vessel, the former contributing funds, and the latter, with his skilled knowledge, and that of his sons, falling the timber and getting the actual building under way. To accomplish this they had, in the first instance, to make their own tools, using the
In July, 1843, the first house was completed It was built of thatch work, with a clay floor. Some three years later a second house was erected, built of white pine, with black pine flooring and totara shingles. Although this
In 1852 Mr Hay introduced the cocksfoot grass into Banks Peninsula—a grass that was to play such an important part in Peninsula farming, as told in a subsequent article. Mr. Hay was also much interested in the establishment of the dairy industry on the Peninsula, and made both butter and cheese in the earliest days.
Mr Hay took a keen interest in educational matters, and himself built a district school on his own account, for which be also secured a teacher, the families benefitting, contributing only to the salary of the teacher, and not to the building, The first teacher was not a success, and Mr. Hay ultimately sent to Scotland, taking pains to secure a good man, who, in the person of Mr. J. W. Gillespie, arrived in 1859. Mr. Gillespie was a man of culture, an excellent teacher, and a great acquisition to the pioneers. In a few months the school proved too small, and Mr. Hay cheerfully erected a much larger one on another site close at hand, and gave it over free of cost. Unfortunately, Mr. Gillespie died about eighteen months after his arrival, and his loss was keenly felt, not only as a teacher, but a man of sterling character, who was much respected and appreciated by all. Mr. Hay again lost no time, and, taking full precautions, sent once more to Scotland, and was signally fortunate in securing Mr. W. S. Fitzgerald, who arrived in 1861, and who for a number of years remained in Pigeon Bay, whence he went to Oamaru, and eventually to Dunedin, where, as everyone knows, he became famous in educational matters, having been, in fact, the originator of our present system. He retired in 1910 full of honours from a high position in education. In church matters Mr Hay took a deep interest, and, in conjunction with a few others, was instrumental in procuring the first Presbyterian minister for Christchurch and the Peninsula.
Mr Hay was a good and a generous neighbour, whose
Mr. Hay lost his life in 1863, the result of an accident, when comparatively a young man.
The following extract from a pamphlet, entitled "A Tour through Various Parts of New Zealand, which appeared in the "Akaroa Mail," in March, 1877, is of great interest, as giving a picture of the town in those days. There are one or two explanations that might be added. The clergyman whose high church services annoyed he lady so much was the Rev. Mr. Cooper. Mr Wagstaff's Hotel was on the site of the residence of Mr E. E. Lelievre, and the Duke of Barry, otherwise Dick Berry, was a connection of the Rev. Mr. Aylmer. He was a bright, jovial little man, who made an excellent cicerone, and like nothing so much as taking round the visitors, and showing them the various points of interest. According to all accounts, he was well able to look after himself, though the German lady appears to have been anxious about his being spoilt by bad company: —
"My first coaching experience in New Zealand was gained from Christchurch to Akaroa, a small town beautifully situated on Banks Peninsula The coach starts from the booking office in Christchurch at 8 am. I had bespoken a box seat, but the granting of that lies solely with the driver, who has the privilege of choosing these passengers that are to share the seat with him. The proprietor, Mr. Cramond, drove up with the coach and a beautiful team of four brown horse. He was very pleasant and civil indeed (but then he comes from Timaru), so I felt sure I should enjoy my trip, At eight o'clock he relinquished the reins to the coachman, Joe Macfarlane, and off we started through the streets of Christchurch, leaving them far behind and rattling along a well made road that only becomes interesting after the half way house in the Little River district is reached. Here the passengers stopped for dinner, and then we start again, this time with five horses, as the road is very heavy in some parts
"In the meantime I was on the best of terms with the driver, Mr. McFarlane, a good looking Scotchman, who had only just returned from his wedding trip, and this
"The next Jake in view is Lake Forsyth, very prettily situated with a mountainous shore. The coach dashed on over a plain covered with tussocks, that look in the distance like short stubble, and as the five horses were dancing along it looked as if we were bearing down straight into the lake. The road that skirts it is very strong and rough; in winter it is often completely flooded when the lake rises through the increasing waters. When pretty Lake Forsyth is passed the roads become very hilly, and high forest trees covered with creepers and ferns, charming gullies in which the tree fern grows luxuriantly and attains a great height are seen. The birds here sing so loudly and joyously that the whole forest resounds with their song; we had moreover a lovely day, and the ever varying scenes, seen to such advantage from the box seat, caused a thorough enjoyment. At a pretty little fountain that forms itself from a supply of water in the hills, and running through a delicious nook of ferns with the many tinted foliage over head, our horses had a drink and a few moments of rest. The poor animals stood panting and perspiring from their up hill journey, It was a lovely spot for a few moments delay, as the concert of the birds
"It is surprising how soon one becomes accustomed to the bad roads the lovely scenery as we are nearing Akaroa soon engages all attention, An inn on the hill top, where the horses are changed for the last time, looks down upon the harbour of Akaroa; surrounded by high hills as it lies there so silent in the clear afternoon sunshine, quite land-locked, it resembles a Swiss lake. I repeat that the picture. as seen from the hill top, is so lovely that this view alone will repay the visitor to Akaroa. As yet, no photographs are to be had; either of this or any other part of the lovely peninsula, which seems all the more strange as the beautiful and varied views cannot fail to find ready purchasers.
"Our last team of horses, five again, was a shapely and comely one altogether, the three leaders especially, and it was a pleasure to see them draw together gracefully and promptly at the sudden curves in the road, which occurred very frequently indeed. Though the end of the journey seemed quite near, yet in reality it was still fifteen miles off. For the first time in my life I was taught to hold the reins by Joe, who pretended that it was amazing how well I did it in so short a time; but somehow Joe's hands were very near the ribbands, and I do believe he held the important part of them. As we are nearing
"On my arrival there were but two guests, the bicycle hero and his follower, who had lately completed the journey from Christchurch to Hokitika and back, and who had come to Akaroa by the same mode of conveyance. A promenade after tea through the hotel grounds and through the town by moonlight was exceedingly agreeable. The whole place was so quiet, the little houses contrasted so well against the dark mountains, and in front of it all the beautiful lake-like harbour so silent and grand in the moonlight. It was exceedingly pleasant to bear a friendly 'Good evening,' from everyone who passed, a habit so different from that of large town, and peculiarly grateful to the ear of a stranger. The next day being Sunday I went to the little English Church (Rev. Cooper), but the service having a strong high flavour I
"It was arranged that the Duke should take me about the country sight-seeing the next day if fine, and we started accordingly at 10 o'clock, with provisions to spend the greater part of the day out among the mountains. As I abhor the smoking of short pipes, and the Duke knew this, 1 met him near the kitchen, puffing away with all his might, and with such a queer dismal expression of countenance when he espied me, 'I am smoking now, you see my last pipe, as I may not indulge in it when I am out with you.' Now this complaisance touched me. 'Well,' said I, 'perhaps I am not so dreadfully peculiar as all that, considering that we shall be in the open air.' Nevertheless, he had no other pipe that day, It was our intention to ascend Brazen Nose, the highest mountain near Akaroa. Immediately after setting out the road was exceedingly rough, and always up hill The Duke in a
"That evening at tea we had two additional guests at the table, travellers from foreign parts, but Englishmen who had come on foot from Pigeon Bay, and were thoroughly drenched, One was an old gentleman very corpulent, with a rubicund face and loud voice, bearing the appropriate name of Captain Hornblower. His companion was quite a young man, rough and ready, and his name was Ostryd. Old Hornblower was in ecstacies with the lake country in the North Island. 'Bless my soul,' cried he 'it is wonderful; there is nothing like it in the world, and a visit there should on no account be a hurried one.' Young Ostryd said nothing, he pegged away at the cold beef, and looked profoundly wise. After tea 1 saw no more of these two, but I heard them, for at ten o'clock there arose a dreadful alarming noise, and on coming out of my bedroom and inquiring for the cause of this disturbance, I was told that it was 'only the Captain sneezing.' Sneezing, indeed! surely the noise did not sound like that, and having been informed by the Duke in the course of the evening that it was alarming to see of what capacions tonnage the Captain was, and that he could stow away a marvellous amount of spirits without showing bad results, I began to doubt that sneezing had anything to do with the Captain's unearthly noises. What bad company for the Duke, both the Hornblower and the Ostryd! However, the next morning, both were down to breakfast in time, the Captain looking as robust as possible, rolling his large innocent eyes in all directions, and young Ostryd looking thirsty.
"A visit to all the French settlers in Akaroa was gratifying for both parties; it was touching to see their delighted faces on being accosted in their own language. They lived in neat cottages with beautifully kept gardens, but everything is on a small scale; they have not been able to turn things to account as English settlers do. They all look very vigorous and healthy, even those advanced in
"The birds in Akaroa are all classical singers. Whether they have learned from the great masters, or the latter from the birds is not for me to determine; I only know that they sing admirably. Regularly at six o'clock every morning one bird would begin waking the others by one soft, prolonged, flute like sound; soon answers came from all sides, and at breakfast we were greeted by little passages, and I declare another bird answered in a minor key. Endless and various were the sweet sounds, and it was with regret that I left this beautiful Akaroa. There are two ways to reach it: the one by coach, the other by water from Lyttelton, and part of the way by coach likewise after the steamer has landed at Pigeon Bay."
It has often been remarked that few of the French settlers who came out in the historic Comte de Paris prospered much in the country of their adoption. Mr F. Lelievre was a notable exception, and died on July 12, 1902, a rich landholder of Banks Peninsula. We give below the obituary notice which appeared in the "Akaroa Mail" of July 15, 1902, as it tells the story of his interesting life, the particulars being obtained from the Lelievre family by the late Mr H. C Jacobson:—
"On Saturday Mr F. Lelievre, the oldest settler on the Peninsula, died in his ninety-fourth year at his residence, Akaroa, surrounded by a group of sorrowing relatives, Mr. Lelievre, in spite of his great age, enjoyed excellent health till a day or two ago, and his brain was as clear as ever, there being not the slightest sign of childishness or aberration of intellect. On the afternoon of the 28th of June, however, in trying to pass from one easy chair to another when by himself in the room, he fell across the fender, breaking a rib, and the shock proved too much for him, coughing causing him much pain For a time it seemed he would rally, but on Friday afternoon a change for the worse set in, he became unconscious, and remained so till he passed away at 5 30 p.m. on Saturday. Mr. Lelievre led a varied life till his settlement in Akaroa in 1840. He was a staunch Republican, an enthusiastic admirer and friend of Victor Hugo, and was associated with that patriot in the Parisian revolution of 1830. No doubt it was owing to the temporary triumph of the 'Citizen King,' Louis Phillipe, that he left France and went to sea, but he was naturally of an adventurous disposition and a born colonist, destined to help in the founding of new centres of civilisation in the hitherto waste places of the world. The Latin is not usually as good a settler as the Anglo Saxon, but those of Normandy, whose blood is mixed with the adventurous Norse strain have always been foremost in the settlement of new lands.
"Mr. F. Lelievre was born at an old Norman-French
"In the latter part of 1838 Mr Lelievre returned to France, but came back two years later with his friend, Captain Langlois, in the Comte da Paris, which brought the eighty-two French pioneers, which were to found a new France on the sunny shores of Banks Peninsula. The vessel arrived in Akaroa Harbour on the 15th August, 1840, and Mr. Lelievre pointed out to the French commander the heavy folds of the British Ensign that drooped from the flagstaff at Red House Point, where Captain Stanley had hoisted it on the preceding day. Captain Langlois said some mistake had been made and hastened the landing of the new colonists. Mr. Lelievre steered the boat that landed the first section of the French pioneers at the mouth of the creek, close to where the Akaroa Coronation Library now stands. As we all know the new arrivals were granted five acre sections, and these grants were subsequently confirmed by the British Government. It was on the section allotted to Mr. Lelievre in 1840 that he passed away in the fullness of years last Saturday.
"There was plenty of blackemith's work for Mr. Lelievre in those days, not only for the settlement, but for the visiting ships, and he was kept fully employed in the early forties. He eventually ceased to work at his trade, and became a farmer, his first speculation being in partnership with Mr. George Rhodes in Red House Bay. In 1851 Mr. Lelievre married Rose Justine, eldest daughter of Emery de Malmanche, one of the French pioneers. This young lady was only sight years of age when the Comte de Paris arrived in 1840. Mr. Lelievre kept the first accommodation house ever erected on the Peninsula, which was on the site of the present Duvauchelle's hotel. He had a boat there, in which he took passengers to and from Akaroa. As before stated, he had a grant of five acres like the rest of the pioneers from the Nanto-Bordelaise Company, and his death ends the record of the adults who had that privilege. As the place progressed, he gradually acquired land, dying in possession of a fine estate, being the most successful of all the French colonists. His family consisted of four sons and five daughters, viz., Mr. E. E. Lelievre, of "Oinaka," and Messrs Auguste, Eugene and Jules, of Akaroa. The daughters are Mesdames E. L Lelievre, of Long Bay road, G. Kearney, of Gough's Bay, and R. Ferris, of Akaroa, The other two daughters, Mrs. Jules Lelievre, of German Bay, and Miss Josephine Lelievre predeceased their father. Mr. Lelievre leaves no less than 105 descendants, including many great grandchildren, so there is no fear of the name becoming extinct. He took no interest in public matters and was never a member of any public body, but he was a good settler, an excellent neighbour and a kind friend, and passed away beloved and respected by all who had the privilege of knowing him."
Among the early residents of the Peninsula, one of those who worked hard and built up a big land estate was Mr. George Armstrong, of Mt. Vernon, Akaroa. He was born at St. John's. New Brunswick, in 1820, and took to a seafaring life at an early age. He came to New Zealand first in the ship Phœnix in 1846, when he and the boat's crew received their discharges from that vessel at Hawke's Bay. Later, he was in charge of the. Edward Stanley, owned by Mr. Johnstone, of Wellington, a vessel trading up the coast and carrying stores to the troops at Wanganui. It was during this visit to Wanganui that Mr. Armstrong was courtmartialled for rescuing a settler named McGregor. The story is as follows: —"Wanganui was then under martial law, and when Mr. Armstrong saw a settler named McGregor, who had crossed the river against orders and was chased by the Maoris, jump down the cliffs to escape from them, he and one of his crew, without waiting for orders, went to McGregor's rescue. The result of this adventure was that Mr. Armstrong was courtmartialled, but, of course, that was a matter of form only, and he was released shortly." This was not the only mishap which befell him on his visit to Wanganui, On coming alongside he found the wharf in a very rotten condition, and reported to the authorities that it was not capable of carrying the provisions he was to land. He was told that the complaint was a trivial one, and that the wharf was easily able to bear the flour and provisions. Mr. Armstrong proved correct, for the wharf collapsed entirely.
"It was about this time that Mr. Armstrong met his future wife, Miss Cummerfield, of Foxton, and he married her there, and came on down to Akaroa the next year. Here he started business in a building next to Bruce's Hotel. After a few years he took his wife and two eldest children to America and England. The visit was only a short one, and, on his return, he brought out with him his sister, afterwards Mrs. Daly. On the way out to New
One of the men who did most to promote settlement at Little River was the late Mr. Coop, of "Springvale," Little River. Born in Bury, Lancashire, in 1832, and educated at Radcliffe Private School, Mr. Coop came out with his family to Melbourne in 1854, and worked in a lead pipe and corrugated iron works started by his father, and still carried on at Melbourne by a branch of the Coop family. The fumes upset him so much that he left the work, and finally came over to New Zealand in 1862 to go to the Otago gold diggings, Landing in Dunedin he was so disgusted at having a fortnight's rain that he came up to Canterbury, where he went to see Mr. Bealey. Mr. Bealey, knowing Mr. Coop was a millwright by profession, told him of the Little River bush, and introduced him to Mr. William White. The two decided to go into partnership to work a mill at Little River, and Mr. Coop went back to Melbourne in the latter end of 1862 to get the plant together. He bought the 32 h.p, engine, which may still be seen near the Little River railway station, and had it brought over on the deck of a White Star liner, which was coming over for wool. Mr. Coop's troubles only began when the engine was got to Lyttelton. Of course, there was no tunnel and no wharf at Lyttelton, and the only way to manage the situation was to ship the engine round in some craft to Sumner. No craft could be procured to take the engine round, though they were offered up to £200 to take it there, In the end Mr. Coop found a brig ready to take it, and it was brought to Sumner for £40. and landed without any mishap. The brig was found only in time, as the liner had threatened to drop the engine into the harbour unless it was removed in a few days time. Mr. Coop's troubles with the engine did not end here, as can be imagined when one realises the country over which the machine had to be taken. Bullocks were used to draw the engine and plant The Halswell River had to have a trestle bridge put across it to get the engine over, and it was no light job to get it aoross Price's Valley, which was
The following reminiscences of an old settler, which appeared in the "Akaroa Mail" on May 4th, 1894, are most interesting at the present time, and the account of Captain Bruce, after whom Bruce Hotel is named, is most amusing:—
"In speaking of this man it must be remarked that the Natives paid a reverence to cripples, Dick, when I knew him in '53, was, I should say, 30 years old. His spine was injured when he was young, and it bent up almost level with his head. Dick was a chief of the first blood, and was held in much respect by the Natives. At that time a whaleboat was a big property, and Dick owned one, These boats were always painted in gaudy colours, and they vied with each other for the nose. This was any colour from the bow thwart to the stem head at keel. The pakeha always knew whose boat it was coming in by the colour. I'm giving you this because some residents in Pigeon Bay think to this day there is a mystery
Mr. Jamas Hay informed us that King Dick left £50 in the bank—a large sum in those days.
Now, before touching directly upon this, it is necessary to describe not only the locality, but the then people. The top sawyer in this yarn is Captain James Bruce, one of the oldest traders in the long, long ago. Bruce lost his vessel off Peraki within a few months after the French settlers arrived, and the position of the community he found may be described as follows:—There was one great whaling master, and he was a straight friend of Bruce's. It was he who found the dollars and said, 'Stick up a pub old man; I'll pull you through. D—n the Sydneyites; let them rip.' This was proper friendship as compared with the Sydney people's action against Bruce, which I may perhaps give you later on. I am travelling somewhat off my yarn, but it's necessary to give you some few descriptive incidents of the time to make it all intelligible to our children. In those days we grew a few bushels of wheat, and ground it by hand. Mutton was not known: pigeons, wild pork, and perhaps—very rarely—beef (an old bull). These were the jolly days of pipis and pauas, when our food was limited. Bruce was first down on the coast about 1818 or '20, when another old hand, named Scott, was then trading. This Scott died in Dunedin about' 59. These times were almost before whaling was commenced in the South Island. The trade was for flax
A short record of the life of Captain Bruce, mentioned in the last article, would come in well here. One of the premier hotels in Akaroa still bears his name, and enjoys the distinction of being built on Section No. 1 Canterbury District. As his name betokens, Captain Bruce was a seafaring man, and came to New Zealand in the early forties. He enjoyed the distinction of being the first captain to take a versel into Port Chalmers, The boat he owned was named the Magnet, and he brought her in 1842 to one of the whaling stations on the south side of the Peninsula, where he had the misfortune to have his boat wrecked in a small bay still called Magnet Bay after his ill-fated vessel. As told in the previous article, Captain Bruce set to work to mend his fortunes ashore, and started the Bruce Hotel, of which a good description is given in the foregoing pages. Ill-fate seemed to pursue Captain Bruce, for another misfortune befell him some years after he lost the brig Magnet. He bought a small schooner or cutter, and set out for Dunedin with three hundred sovereigns to send to Sydney for a stock of spirits and stores. The schooner was caught in a gale when inside Akaroa Heads and sank, and the precious three hundred sovereigns are lying there yet, Captain Bruce, like so many sailors could not swim, but a Maori woman on board swam with him to the rocks, thereby saving his life. Captain Bruce was not the man to forget the debt he owed the Maori woman, and he kept her in food and clothes till she died. She left a small girl, and Captain Bruce undertook the child's education, sending her up to Wellington, where she died at an early age. In article No. 9, entitled "Early Reminiscences," mention is made of a wreck in which Captain Bruce was a sufferer, but apparently the account; is wrong, being a sort of jumble up of the two wrecks. The Magnet wreck occurred when Captain Bruce first came to the Peninsula, and we know that took place in Magnet Bay. Continual reference is made by the early settlers to Captain
The first owners of Purau were the three Greenwood Bros., named James, Joseph and Edward, who Game from Wellington in 1843 in the schooner Richmond owned by Messrs Sinclair and Hay. In that year the brothers took possession of Purau and Motunau; but they all lived at Purau. They were very unfortunate all through. After they had built what was then considered a very fine house and were prospering, they were robbed, about 1846, by three bushrangers called the Bluecap gang. The story of the robbery is to effect that the thieves tied up the two elder brothers, and forced the younger, Edward, under pain of death, to hand over all the valuables in the house. They had a boat ready, and took Edward to the beach with them, giving him his life on condition that he did not loose his brothers till they had a twenty minutes' start. Edward Greenwood observed his part of the agreement, and with the start they had the men got away. The Greenwoods were able to send a whaleboat to Port Levy to tell the whalers that the gang intended to rob Messrs Deans, of Riccarton. The Deans were held in such high esteem that the whalers manned a boab at once and went over to Sumner. They did not see the robbers, though they passed them when they were hiding in a cave round the Sumner coast. The Bluecap gang camped in Dean's bush ready to pounce on the homestead. As there was snow on the ground the whalers were soon able to track the robbers, and hunted them out. They then made for Dunedis, where one of them was drowned. The other two were taken to Sydney for punishment. Though the Greenwoods got back most of their valuables the robbery was a great shock to them, as they felt the insecurity of their position should another lawless gang descend on them. Another much more serious misfortune befell them shortly afterwards when the second brother Joseph was drowned in a whaleboat with Johnny Moles and a Maori, and the other two brothers became disgusted with New Zealand. Joseph was drowned while on the way to their estate at
The three Rhodes Brothers, William Barnard, George and Robert Heaton, were intimately connected with Canterbury since a date many years prior to the first settlement by the colonists, and that connection is as intimate in their descendants at the present day. W. B. Rhodes was the first of them to visit the place that was to become Canterbury. He was a seafaring man, and in 1834 and 1835 he commanded a whaling ship, the Australian, belonging to a Sydney firm, Messrs Cooper & Holt, afterwards Cooper and Levy, whose names were given to the two adjacent harbours, Port Cooper and Port Levy. The former was later named Lyttelton Harbour. Mr Rhodes was in the harbour in 1834, when he climbed the bills looking over the Canterbury Plains, which he described as a vast swamp with two patches of native bush. Trade was carried on with the natives, and in February, 1839, a Captain Francis Leathart purchased an area of land from the natives through Taiaroa, which area Leathart transferred in September, 1839, to the firm which Rhodes had now joined —Cooper, Holt and Rhodes. The last named purchased a fine barque, the Eleanor, and buying 50 bead of cattle, including two bulls, at £16 a head from Mr Rust at the Hunter River, New South Wales, he landed these at Takapuneke, or Red House Bay, Akaroa Harbour, early in November, 1839, These were the first cattle landed in Canterbury, and he left one William Green in charge of them at the Bay. Green had had charge of the stock on the boat, and settled at Red House with his wife and little boy, two years of age. In 1842, W. B. Rhodes was joined by his brother Joseph, but he left Akaroa soon after 1843, and settled first in Wellington, but soon afterwards in Napier, where he acquired a fine property. W. B. Rhodes also made his home in Wellington, and he was there when George Rhodes arrived at Akaroa in December, 1843, having left London by the Mandarin in June of that year, coming to New Zealand via Van Diemsan's Land. He was brought
[This article was contributed by Mr James Hay).]
Malcolm McKinnon enjoys the distinction of being the first man to do any ploughing in Canterbury. He grew the first crop of grain, which he stacked at Riccarton; but be lost it all, the native rats devouring the lot. This was in 1840, or early in 1841 Mr McKinnon came from Sydney in the ship Elizabeth, landing at Oashore at the outlet of Lake Forsyth, on April 7th, 1840 He travelled to Taumutu, then on to Southbridge, finally reaching his destination-Riccarton. Mr McKinnon was representing a Sydney company, Messrs Abercrombie and Co., who had bought Riccarton from the Maoris, and he had with him a wife and one child, also a bullock team and a dray with farming implements. It will be remembered that previously the Sydney firm, Messrs Cooper and Holt (mentioned in the foregoing article) bad bought Riccarton from the Maoris, but had the misfortune to lose the ship bringing out people, stores, etc., to work the land, and also the Maori titles to the property. Strangely enough Messrs Abercrombie and Co. had the like experience, for the second boat they sent out, laden with people and stores to work Riccarton, was lost with all hands, and the loss caused the company to fail. The Maoris, therefore, sold Riccarton three times, Messrs Deans Bros. being the final purchasers. After the disaster alluded to, all the whites who were then at Riccarton left except Mr. McKinnon. It is not clear who these people were, but, in any case, Mr. McKinnon tried to stay by himself and work the place. However, the Maoris, seeing his plight, determined to drive him away, and burnt all the grass round his house. He decided to go to Akaroa to seek the protection of the French, but before leaving hid all his farming implements in a hole in the river above where the Christchurch Hospital now stands. The journey he made to Akaroa in March, 1841, was one not to be undertaken lightly. He drove his four bullocks loose, carrying a table on his head. Mrs. McKinnon carried their only child (Mrs T. H. Parkinson) on her back, They reached Lake Forsyth the
The name of Mr. Charles Barrington Robinson is intimately connected with the early history of Akaroa, as he was one of the magistrates brought down in the Britomart on her memorable voyage in August, 1840. The story of that race down the coast is told in the other articles dealing with the French occupation of Banks Peninsula. Mr. Robinson, after having, with the other magistrate, Mr. Murphy, hoisted the flag at Green's Point, Akaroa, and at Piraki, remained as chief magistrate at Akaroa, retaining this position till 1846, when he resigned, and soon afterwards went to England. He was specially fitted for his position in Akaroa, being a remarkably clever lawyer and a good linguist. His knowledge of French enabled him to render great assistance to the French and other settlers in their business and local affairs. Many of the foreign settlers remained for years ignorant that they were living under British rule, and to prevent possible disaffection arising Captain Lavaud arranged with Mr. Robinson to administer French law among them. This the Governor allowed Soon afterwards the Nanto Bordelaise Company sold all. the claim they had to the Akaroa lands to the New Zealand Land Company. When Mr. Robinson resigned in 1846, Mr. John Watson succeeded him as Resident Magistrate, and retained that office for many years thereafrer. Mr. Robinson married Miss Helen Sinclair, second daughter of Captain and Mrs. Sinclair, who, with their family, settled in Pigeon Bay early in 1843, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Ebenezer Hay and family. Reference to these earliest Canterbury settlers, with whom the Deans family is also associated, is made elsewhere in these records, In April, 1850, Mr. Robinson returned to New Zealand in the ship Monarch, bound for Auckland. In passing Akaroa Heads an accident happened to the rudder, which necessitated the vessel putting into the harbour, and landing her passengers at Akaroa. Mr Robinson had entered into partnership with a Mr Smith They brought out the first Shorthorn cattle shipped direct
Mr. John Gebbie and family were among the earliest pioneers to Canterbury, travelling down in the schooner Richmond in 1843, the same vessel which brought the Deans, Hays and Sinclairs. Mr. Gebbie stayed at Riccarton for two years. Later he took up land at the head of Port Cooper, now called Teddington, and acquired a fine estate, including that portion in the valley now called Gebbie's Valley Mr. Gebbie had both cattle and sheep, and was well known as a splendid manager of sheep. Unlike so many settlers Mr. Gebbie died in the early fifties, when a comparatively young man, leaving four sons and two daughters. His grandchildren now own the property he acquired, and are among the best known families in Canterbury.
Mr. Samuel Manson was another passenger by the schooner Richmond in 1843. Like Mr. Gebbie he remained at Riccarton about two years, when be bought property adjoining Mr. Gebbie's, He had a large family of seventeen children—tea sons and seven daughters, all of whom were alive in 1910, except) one. Mr. Manson's life, like Mr. Gebbie's life was an uneventful one, that of an industrious and successful farmer. He and his family were renowned as excellent chessemakers. The property is now in the occupation of the younger members of the family.
Mr. Hugh Buchanan was one of the early settlers on Banks Peninsula. He was born at Kinloch Mhor, in Argyleshire, Scotland, where his father leased extensive pastoral farms from the Earls of Breadalbane and the Stewarts of Appin. After being privately educated, he leased the Argyleshire property called "Blarcreen," where he farmed up to 1848. In that year he sailed for Melbourne, but, finding the heat too trying, came on to New Zealand. He was farming first at Motunau, but in 1851 took up land at Little River. There he bought out the property of Mr. Henry Smith, who had arrived by the Monarch in 1850. Mr. Smith had a run and a few sheep and cattle, Mr. Buchanan naming the run Kinloch after his home in Scotland. Early in the fifties he bought out Mr Joseph Price's Ikoraki estate. He took up his residence in Ikoraki, so that he could ship his wool by water, there being no easy means of getting his produce away from Little River. He carried on whaling for a few years afc Ikoraki after he bought Mr. Price out, but found it very unprofitable. Mr. Buchanan settled down to farming, and built up a fine estate. When communication was opened to Little River, he built a fine house at Kinloch, and lived there. He acquired a good estate of 14,000 acres, which was sold by his sons to the Government for closer settlement. Mr. Buchanan took a keen interest in all public matters, being a member for Wainui in the Canterbury Provincial Chamber till the abolition of the Provincial Government. He was also Chairman of the Little River Road Board, being a very regular at tendant at all meetings. Mr. Buchanan did much to promote the dairying industry and farming interests generally during his long term as President of the old Banks Peninsula Agricultural and Pastoral Association. Apart from his keen interest in public affairs, Mr. Buchanan had a wide reputation for hospitality, and for doing many acts of kindness. He died in September, 1877, leaving a widow, two sons and three daughters, Mr. Buchanan
Mr. and Mrs. Sinclair, with their family—three sons and three daughters-arrived at Wellington in 1841. Mr. Sinclair had purchased land in New Zealand before leaving Scotland, but, finding he could not get suitable land near Wellington, he built a schooner, with which he visited Nelson, Banks Peninsula and several other places, and finally decided to settle in Pigeon Bay, where he brought his family in 1843 Having bought land in the Bay from the French Company, he formed the family estate in Sinclair's Bay. Here Mr. and Mrs. Sinclair, with all their family, had a happy home till 1846, when the family were plunged into the deepest sorrow by the death of Mr. Sinclair and his eldest son, who were lost at sea on a voyage to Wellington. They were regretted by everyone, and Sir George Grey, then Governor of New Zealand, said that Mr. Sinclair's death was a loss, not only to his family, but to all the Colony. Mr. and Mrs. Sinclair's family were George, who was lost with his father on a voyage to Wellington; James, who died in the Hawaiian Islands; Jane Sinclair, who married Captain Thomas Gay; Helen Sinclair, who married Mr. C. B. Robinson; Francis Sinclair, married, and living in England; Annie Sinclair, who married Mr. V. Knudsen in the Hawaiian Islands After several years Mrs. Sinclair and family decided to leave New Zealand, for, although they had such a fine estate and comfortable home in Sinclair Bay, they wished to get larger tracts of land where all the family could settle near together, so they sold their land, cattle and sheep, and bought a barque of 300 tons, in which they all left New Zealand in 1863. They had a pleasant voyage across the Pacific to British Columbia, and landed for a time at the Island of Vancouver, where the Governor, Sir James Douglas, offered every inducement to settle. This they were obliged to decline to do, as they found the country was not suitable for grazing purposes. They left Vancouver, and went to the
An old settler who has left a number of descendants on the Peninsula is William Birdling, who came to Akaroa in the early forties to assist Messrs. W. B. and G. Rhodes with their cattle at Red House Bay and Flea Bay. When the Rhodes Bros. bought Purau from Greenwood Bros, Mr Birdling went to Purau with them, This was about 1846, and a few years later Mr. Birdling bought the property about Lake Forsyth, now called Birdling's Flat. Like the other early settlers in Little River, Mr. Birdling had great difficulty in getting his cheese away, and was obliged to take it by boat to Gebbie's Valley, sledge it over the hill to Teddington, and then send it by water to Lyttelton. In spite of these drawbacks, Mr. Birdling built up the Waikoko estate, of 5220 acres, at Birdling's Flat, and lived to the age of 79, enjoying the respect and esteem of all who knew him. He left a family of seven sons and one daughter, all being still alive (1913) except Mr. Robert Birdling, who died in 1902.
Mr. William Green arrived in Akaroa in 1839, in charge of tbe first shipment of cattle landed in Canterbury These cows, as will be seen by the perusal of the account of Messrs. Rhodes Bros, in an earlier article, were landed at the bay in Akaroa harbour called the Red House Bay. Mr. Green built the first hotel in Canterbury, at the place now known as Green's Point, where the monument stands to mark the spot where the English flag was hoisted on August 10th, 1840. Mr. Green was present at this memorable ceremony. He sold his house later to Mr. George Tribe, who took it down, and removed it to Norwich Quay, Lyttelton, where it was burnt down in 1854 or 1855 After selling his first hotel Green built a second one at the point opposite the old Akaroa wharf, the house being afterwards known as Armstrong's
Another man who came to the Peninsula in the early days was Israel Rhodes. He followed a seafaring life, and sailed from Hull, England, for New Zealand, arriving in Wellington in 1842. He came out with the intention of farming, and worked for a Mr. Wright at the Hutt for a year. He then left for Akaroa under an engagement to Messrs R. H. Rhodes and Geo. Rhodes to work on the Flea Bay sheep station. He was in charge of the Flea Bay and Stoney Bay properties for a number of years, while Mr. W. Birdling looked after the Long Bay station for Messrs Rhodes Bros. In 1852, when Messrs Rhodes Bros, bought their Timaru property, Mr. Israel Rhodes, who, by the way was no relation, bought the Flea Bay proproperty. He carried on dairying for some years, when, his health breaking down, he come into Akaroa to live. This was in 1867, and he bought the house now occupied by Mrs, Jesson, where he died in February, 1871. Mr. Rhodes left a widow and a family of eight children—five sons and three daughters. There are a large number of his descendants on the Peninsula now, and the Flea Bay property is subdivided among three of his grandchildren. The Stoney Bay property was purchased some years ago by the late Mr. Geo. Armstrong, and is now occupied by Mr. Jos. Armstrong, who owns a large portion of the Bay. Mr." Israel Rhodes always contradicted the story that Flea Bay was called after the troublesome insect, and said the correct name was "Flee," which was altered by error on title deeds and chart to "Flea." Mr. Rhodes made an excellent farmer, his knowledge of stock being very great, and it was all the more wonderful, as he spent his early life as a sailor.
The first white men to visit the South Island were the traders, who dealt in what is now considered a nefarious trade—that of Maori heads. They also bought flax from the Maoris and curious, giving the Natives clothes and trinkets in exchange. It was not till the thirties that the whalers appear to have made any fixed cruises down to the South Island. The first whaling station in the South Island was that in Preservation Inlet, the date of which could not be ascertained. The only thing known about it is that it was much older than the whaling station in Otago Harbour, which was started on March 17, 1836. Stations were started almost immediately after at Waikouaiti, Taieri and Timaru, We known that George Hempleman started the whaling station at Piraki in February, 1836, so it can be said that the Piraki station was the second earliest in the South Island. The most remarkable thing about the Piraki Fishery is the record of Hempleman's doings from 1835, when he set out from Sydney in the brig Bee up to 1844, when the narrative ends abruptly. The whalers who visited the Peninsula from 1835 onwards were of all nationalities—Americans, French, Dutch and English. A number of them were employed by Sydney firms as Messrs Weller Bros., Messrs Cooper and Levy, Messrs Long, Richards and Wright, and others. Many of the whalers combined trading with whaling, and sold stores, clothes, farming utensils, etc., to the early setttlers. In fact, the whalers were a God send to the pioneers of the forties. On the whole they were very fair in their dealings, and the traffic, which waa always carried on in kind, proved very beneficial to the early settlers. In many cases, when the pioneers were reduced to using the dried manuka leaves or seeds of the biddy-biddy for tea, and were tired of pigeon pie, the whaler's arrival with grocery stores was welcomed with zest. Besides the necessaries of lives, many of the boats carried a stock of household ornaments, the Americans, in particular, usually having a large assortment of clocks.
The details of Hempleman's life are given in full else where, so only a short account is necessary, George Hempleman was born at Altona, the chief city of Schleswig Holstein, in 1799, He came to Banks Peninsula in 1835 in command of the brig Bee to start shore whaling. His wife, who accompanied him, died at Piraki, leaving one daughter. He married a second time Misa Whelch, but had no children by the second marriage. He left Piraki for German Bay, where he spent the remainder of his life. A full account of his life is given in article No. 3, entitled "Hempleman's Purchase of Akaroa." He died on February 13, 1880, at Akaroa, while eating a peach in the garden of his friend, M. de Malmanche.
Among the most prominent of the early whalers on the Peninsula was the late Mr Joseph Price. Born at Newcastle on Tyne, England, in 1810, Mr. Price went to sea when only thirteen years of age in a trading vessel plying between England and France Six years later he came to the colonies, and was engaged in trading along the coast of New South Wales. Price came to New Zealand about 1831, and lived with the Maoris at Kaiapoi, having been left behind by his ship's boat, which had been sent ashore for provisions. He was always very reticent about his early life, but it is understood that he slept one night
The whaling station which appears to have followed the Ikoraki one is the one at Oashore, started in 1839 by Philip Ryan and two mates. These men were whalers who bad been working at Timaru, and were fitted out by Messrs Weller Bros., of Sydney, with all requisites for shore whaling. A full account of his life is given in a previous article taken by Mr. H C Jacobson from the old man's own lips, and it is useless to have a repetition. The account was obtained in 1893, when Mr. Ryan was 91
Paddy Woods bought the Oashore whaling station from Philip Ryan in 1841 or 1842. e worked his station with that of Ikoraki, owned by Joseph Price. He gave up whaling in 1844 and came to Akaroa, where he had an hotel where Garwood's Buildings still stand. He had a irascible temper, as his name indicates, and was for ever quarrelling with his genial neighbour, Captain James Bruce, of the Bruce Hotel. He had one son and daughter, the daughter being Mrs. Michael Hart. When the Callfornian diggings broke out Paddy Woods went over to America, never to return. His wife and family lived on for many years in Lyttelton.
Island Bay was the scene of whale fishing early in the forties. The first to start there were Messrs W. Green, of Green's Point, of whose life a short account is given a few pages back, and Charlie Brown, Hall and Malcolm McKinnon, who also bad an interest in this station. It has been impossible to obtain many particulars of this fishery, but the deaths of Charlie Brown and Hall are recorded. Charlie Brown left the fishery, and went away in a whaling vessel, which was never heard of any more. Hall left Akaroa one day in a whaleboat, with a quantity of provisions for the bay, and nothing was heard of the boat or its occupants. Mr. George Rhodes bought out the Island Bay fishery, and employed Sam Williams, commonly known as Yankee Sam, to whale for him. How long Me. Rhodes had the station is not known, but he sold out to Mr. James Wright, who bought the try pots from Yankee Sam. Yankee Sam left the whaling, like many others, to go to the Melbourne gold diggings.
Mr. and Mrs. James Wright left England in the Martha Ridgway, and landed in Wellington in 1840. In 1842 they came down to the Peninsula, where Mr. Wright whaled for Paddy Woods at Oashore. Mr. Wright left Paddy Woods in 1844 and came to Akaroa. He then bought out Mr. George Rhodes's whale fishery at Island Bay, and carried on whaling as long as there were any whales about the coast. Mr. Wright had bought the land forming the estate called Wakamoa, and as whaling declined turned his attention to farming. He carried on dairying on a large scale in the early days, and as mentioned in a later article in this work, written by Mr. H. C. Jacobson from information obtained by Mr. James Wright himself, it was marvellous how the cheese was carried down those rugged hillsides. It is said that at one time Mr. Wright had one of the finest herds of milking Shorthorn cattle in Canterbury. Later, he replaced the cattle with sheep. Mr Luke Wright, one of his sons, now lives in the old homestead. Mr. James Wright died at the age of 78 after a strenuous and successful life, leaving nine sons and three daughters. Mr. Wright, was an ex-member of the Life Guards, and had many stories to tell of hig regiment. He was commonly styled the "Baron of Wakamoa," and was very proud of having such tall sons. He boasted that he and his nine sons stretched along the ground measured out a chain—and they certainly were all very tall. Mrs Wright still lives (December, 1913) having attained the age of 94. She is hale and in complete comraand of all her faculties. The Wright family has increased in numbers, and there are five generations over at Wainui.
For years past the old try pots used by the whalers were left at Island Bay, Piraki, Oashore and Ikoraki, and at Piraki especially plenty of whalebone was to be seen scattered on the beach to remind one of the wild free days
There are different tales in explanation of the manner by which Le Bon's came in possession of its name, One is that the whalers in the very early days were accustomed to bring in the whales to the Bay and try them out. In the course of time the beach was covered with whale bone, and the place was called the Bone Bay. Another story tells how Captain Le Bas came in his ship to Le Bon's, mistaking it for Akaroa. He sent a boat's crew ashore, and one of the crew was named Le Bon The Bay was named after him. Captain Le Bas stayed in the Bay for some time. There were a great many whalers of all nations about in those days (during the fifties), but they seldom called into the Peninsula bays by all accounts, generally making Akaroa Harbour their headquarters., Le Bas' ship is supposed by some to be the first ship that was anchored in the Bay.
There was a Maori pah on the beach before white men came into the Bay, but they had all gone before the first settlers arrived. Skeletons are often found in the sand, and some curios, such as greenstone tomahawks, ear rings, etc Traces of the pah still remain, and lead to the conclusion that there was once a number of Maori inhabitants. Abundance of stumps of totaras were found about the
Mr. Cuff, father of Mr. Cuff, of Cuff and Graham, the shipping firm in Lyttelton, was the first settler in Le Bon's. He went there with his family, and lived in a tent for some time, and eventually built the house now on Mr. Henry Barnett's property It has been added to, however, and so much improved that there is little of the old house left. When Mr. Cuff came the Bay was covered in dense bush and heavy timber: that was in 1857, Le Bon's being much later settled than most of the Peninsula bays. Mr. Cuff saw that there was a great deal of valuable timber and started a sawmill on the banks of creek close to his house. Mr. Cuddon, now in Christchurch, brought the engine down, and the vessel was floated up the creek. There was a great difficulty in getting the engine ashore, as it sunk in the mud, and it was some time before the mill was got into working order. It came on to blow severely, and the vessel that brought the engine was detained a month in the Bay. When it did start the mill had plenty of work. The flat was covered with white and black pines as thick as they could stand, and the sides of the valley grew immense totaras and other timber. Mr. Cuff brought cattle with him, and improved the land about his house. The walnut trees still standing were planted by him, and are nearly as old as those on Muter's place in German Bay.
The Maria Ann and Gipsey, ketches, were the first vessels that carried the timber from the Bay to Lyttelton. Messrs Thos. Aldridge and Stephens owned them, being partners They came to Le Bon's about 1860, and soon afterwards went to Laverick's, returning to Le Bon's some years afterwards. Mr. Stephens, it will be
Some years afterwards, during a great storm, two ves sels were wrecked—the Breeze and the Challenge. The Challenge was sunk at anchor. The Breeze was driven into nor' west Bay and smashed up. The crews managed to get ashore At a quite recent date the Gipsey and Diligence, which replaced them, were also wrecked; and the Hero, well known from her several narrow escapes, met with her fate also in Le Bon's.
Messrs Saxton and Williams took the mill from Mr. Cuff about 1861, but only worked it for six months. Mr. John Cuff, son of the owner, then managed it. Messrs Oldridge and Stephens ran the mill for some time, and after that Mr. Drummond McPherson, well known in Canterbury, bought it. A man named Rouse bought it from him. In 1865 Mr. John Smith took it over. He had a great many men working for him, who are now settlers in the Bay. He also introduced the Danes, who now own among them a good portion of the land in Le Bon's Bay. Mr. John Smith got the contract from the Provincial Council for building the old jetty and the tramway to it from the mill. About £1000 was thrown away on this work. The tramway could never be made to act, and a ship load of timber never went down by it, punting and rafting being resorted to as of old. An attempt once to get a shipment of cheese away by sending it down the tramway to the jetty proved a failure. The tramway was never of any use whatever, and was left to decay. Some portions of it are still to be seen. About this time Mr. Hartstone, in company with a man named Savage,
The greatest event that ever occurred in Le Bon's was the tidal wave of 1868. It came at one o'clock, and caused much terror. Mr. Bailey's house was carried bodily up the Bay, and deposited on the tops of the trees on the flat There was three feet of water in Mr. Smith's house on the flat, and all day the waves kept coming up. A whaleboat was carried out of the river and placed on a bridge. The bridge was loosened and carried out to sea, and again the boat and bridge were brought back
Following on this was the renowned gold fever It appears Miss Gladstone, the sister of Mrs. Smith, found a piece of quartz well impregnated with gold close to the house, which, it was supposed, had been washed up by the tidal wave, The news spread like wild fire, and became known in Christchurch. A company was formed there, and two men were sent down to examine the Bays. These men prospected Waikerakikari and Le Bon's, and found no signs in the latter, but there were traces of gold in the former. The men belonging to the mills were all the time in a great state of excitement, and shovels and dishes, and all the articles appertaining to gold getting were in great demand. It is generally supposed that some man wished to play a lark, and placed the quartz there. No result came at any rate from the discovery of the one piece of quartz, and the men gradually settled down to their work again at the mills, after every gully and bank in the Bay had been thoroughly examined.
As may be supposed, there were many strange characters in the Bays in those days. Sailors were continually deserting the vessels, and kept in hiding in the bush
The bush was so dense that a trip to Akaroa was quite an expedition, Very often parties lost themselves for several days, which can hardly be eredited now. The first track was cut by Mr. Cuff, for which he got £100 It can still be traced, running along the ridge on the south side of the Bay across the ranges to German Bay, where it ran almost in the same place as the present road lies, About 1864 the Okain's, Little Akaloa and Le Bon's Road Board came into existence. Mr. Henry Barnett was the first representative for Le Bon's, and Mr. George Hall acted as Clerk to the Board. In 1870 72 the present road to the Akaroa side was formed. Harry Head fixed the grading. He also laid ont the read to Nor' west Bay. Harry Head never lived in Le Bon's for any time, although he was passing through and staying at the settlers' houses. Few were as well acquainted with the bush as he. As most of our readers know, he lived in Waikerakikari and Gough's, then almost inaccessible.
Butcher's meat was a luxury little known to the early people in the Bay. Wild pigeons abounded, however, also ka kas. The creek swarmed with eals of great size, and monsters of 40lbs. and 50lbs. were quite common. The general plan was for the men to go out on Sunday, and in an hour or so shoot enough game to last tho rest of the week As the bush disappeared, the land was sown down, and cattle introduced The destruction of the bush was also the destruction of the game.
Messrs Piper, Duvauchelle and Howland came early to the Bay, and worked in the mill. Mr. Bailey arrived in 1861. The Barnetts came in 1863, Mr. G. Hall in 1860, and Mr. D. Wright, now in Okain's, in 1862. There were, of course, heavy bush fires, but the inhabitants lived on the flat, which was first cleared, so little damage was done to property. Mr. Bailey was once burnt out, but he was the solitary exception.
The first dairy was started by the Messrs Barnett. Mr.
The present church was built in 1869. Before that the preacher delivered his address from a timber stack. Mr. Smith had a school for the children in the Bay. Miss Pauer was the first Mistress Mr. Tom Berry, a well-known character on the Peninsula, was master afterwards. The present school was built some twenty-six years ago.
Some years ago a man named Norris started in a boat for Okain's. It came on bo blow, the boat was capsized and Norris drowned, Another accident occurred not long ago The late Mr Dalglish shot his timber down a shoot into the Bay for a number of years. A man named Neilson was at the bottom of the shoot when the timber was being let down, and kept in check by a chain. The chain broke and came down on Neilson, killing him.
With the exception of a few occurrences of this sort, the Bay has had a very quiet history. It is the old story of men building up a settlement isolated from the rest of the world. The Bay prospers from year to year, and grass seed and cheese have become its chief exports.
Most of the Bays have got their names from some trifling incident. Okain's is no exception. Captain Hamilton, well known in tha early times, and who used to trade between the Bays and Lyttelton, was passing the Bay in his vessel one day, and happened to be reading a book on deck. The book chanced to be by O'Kain, the Irish naturalist. Captain Hamilton therefore called the Bay after the author, and it has been Okain's ever since. Okain's is perhaps the largest of the Bays round the Peninsula, being much wider than any of the others The creek which flows down the valley and empties itself into the Bay can be dignified with the title of river without mis application. The flat rises so gradually from the beach that the tide is felt for more than a mile from the mouth of the creek, and fairly sized vessels can navigate it. The beach is a great stretch of sand, and the constant work of reclamation is going on. There are two Okain's, Big Okain's and Little Okain's. Little Okain's lies to wards the East Head. It is a small narrow Bay of a rugged nature, and is remarkable for the many giant karakas that thrive there still. It was here that Moki, the renowned chief of the Ngai Tahu, landed first on the Peninsula during his expedition against Tu te Kawa, the great Ngatimamoe of Waihora (Lake Ellesmere)
It is not exactly known whether the Maoris had a pah in Okain's itself. It is certain, however, that they visited it a great deal in their bunts for provisions. Their headquarters were Pah Island, a small islet lying round East Head It contains about three acres, and its formation rendered it a splendid natural fortification for the Natives. The Maoris inhabited it to the time when the first settlers came to Okain's, and traces of them are visible to the present day.
The population of the Bay at the commencement of its settlement consisted chiefly of runaway sailors, and people who had reason for leaving the busy world for a time.
It was chiefly in Okain's that the whalers in the early days got their spars, and shiploads of them were contin ually cut and sent away, the Bay being famed for its fine timber. Very dense was the bush. It was in fact difficult to travel far through it in any direction. When a track wanted cutting, all hands in the Bay set to work for the common good. About two years after the first real settlers came—that was about 1850—a track was cut over to Robinson's Bay for the purpose of communication to Akaroa. It was a very rough one, and those that are now in the Bay that travelled it think that it would have far from satisfied the present inhabitants. It was better, however, than the untracked bush, and the hardy pioneers were too accustomed to difficulty to think much of the hardships a journey to Akaroa cost them. Before this track was cut it was nearly impossible to get to the harbour, and, as in other bays, men continually lost themselves while attempt ing it.
The first people who really settled in Okain's were Messrs Fleuty, Harley, Mason and Webb. They were there before 1873. They bought up fifty acres among them. Mr Thos. Ware, who soon afterwards arrived, bought one fourth of it from them, and still owns it. Mr Webb afterwards went to Laverick's, and died in that Bay.
The tidal wave of 1863 is well remembered by the old settlers. It spread a long distance up the Bay, flooding the houses on the flat. It left behind a thick sandy deposit, covering all the herbage, and it was some time before the latter grew again. A vessel that was being built down close to the river was carried off the stocks and floated round the Bay. No harm, however, was done to her. As may be supposed, the event caused great consternation.
There have been few casualties in the Bay. In the very early days a boat belonging to Mr John Roberts was cap sized, and two men drowned A boat, also, coming from Le Bon's was lost, and two men met their fate. Those who have passed through Little Okain's in late years may have noticed the wreck of a small vessel lying half buried in the sand. She has now completely broken up. Her name was the Sea-devil, and she once belonged to Mr Thacker Soon after he sold her she was driven ashore during a gale, and became a total wreck.
Messrs Moore, Sefton, Gilbert, and others were also very early settlers in Okain's, They took up land on the same principle as Messrs Webb, Mason, Fleuty, and Harley, three or four of them buying up a fifty acre section and going into partnership.
As the bush was cat down fires became frequent, and a great deal of damage was done at times. The great fire which started in Pigeon Bay about five and forty years ago spread to Okain's. The fire lasted for a long time, and for weeks the sky was scarcely seen through the thick volumes of smoke. There have been several bush fires started in Okain's, but none as bad as this one. The summer had been a dry one, and the wind was favourable to its spreading. The whole Peninsula was ablaze, and after it bad died out many wild pigs were found burnt to death. The native birds besides were never so plentiful afterwards as they were before the fire.
As in Le Bon's, the creek swarmed with eels of a
About three years after they came, Messrs Mason and Fluety commenced dairying, their old partners, Messrs Webb and Harley having left them and sold out their property. Messrs Ware and Thacker soon started other dairies, and year after year as the bush was cleared others went in for dairy farming. Mr. Ware brought the first sheep into Okain's about forty-seven years ago.
Mr J. E. Thacker came to Okain's about fifty eight years ago from Christchurch, and gradually bought up land, the six thousand acres purchased in all, now forming a magnificent estate, He erected a sawmill about thirty five or thirty seven years ago, and soon cut all the timber in the Bay. It was the largest sawmill ever at work on the Peninsula, and could cut 70,000 feet in a week, so that it did not take long to clear the land, a large number of hands being employed. The building in which the engine and machinery were once located was in good preservation about twenty years ago, and was used as a wool-shed. The tramway to fetch down the logs to the mill went away to the top of the valley, and parts of it are still to be seen. The Alert, Jeanette and Elizabeth were the vessels employed to carry the timber to Lyttelton, and they had all they could do to clear it away as it was cut.
The Okain's Road Board was formed in 1864, and the present road to Akaroa was made in 1878.
Okain's has settled down to a quiet, peaceful existence, the inhabitants being chiefly dependent on the production of cheese, grass seed and wool, and as long as these commodities command any price this fertile Bay is bound to give generous support to its healthy and happy sons and daughters.
One would naturally think Akaloa was a corruption of Akaroa. Sonae of those who have been connected with the settlement of this Bay, state that it received its name from a resemblance to Akaroa, and also its position, as it lies directly opposite the harbour. The oldest settlers declare, however, that Akaloa was the original Maori name.
No Maoris have actually dwelt in the Bay since it has been settled. A great many of them, however, lived at the Long Look out, and during the raid of the North Island Maoris on the Peninsula tribes, Maoris came from all the Bays round to Little Akaloa for shelter They hid in the bush, and on the ridges between the Bays. There was a great slaughter on the Long Look-out, in which the local natives were almost annihilated. Traces of this event can be found on slopes of the cape.
The first settlers to arrive were Messrs. Bennetts and Rix, fathers of the settlers of those names who used to live in and about the Bay. Before they came there were sawyers in Little Akaloa, which, like the other Bays, was a refuge for runaway sailors and men of all descriptions. Seventeen or eighteen pit sawyers were once at work on the timber in the Bay. Messrs. Bennetts and Rix came from Wellington with Captain Thomas. The latter was a Government surveyor, and came to lay out Lyttelton and Christchurch. This was in 1850. Messrs, Bennetts and Rix came to Little Akaloa to saw timber for Captain Thomas. In September of the same year Mr. George Ashton arrived. Mr. Jones came soon afterwards, and purchased the first section of land sold in the Bay from the Canterbury Association. Mr. G. Ashton resided on part of it. Amos Green, commonly known as Toby Green, was an early settler. He was a cripple. It seems he escaped from a whaling ship, and fled to the Maoris, with whom he lived for some time. Two settlers came to the pah and engaged him for work on their land, and as he was stepping out of the boat he stepped on to a loaded gun, which
As everywhere else on the Peninsula, the bush was very dense in Li tie Akaloa; indeed it was perhaps more thickly covered than any other Bay. Mr. G Ashton possessed a photograph of the Bay in those early days. It is greatly different from the present appearance of the locality, showing the settlement on the beach, and the valley and hills covered with heavy timber. It was a hard day's work to penetrate a mile in the bush, and find your way back again. It came thick down to the water's edge. Akaloa abounded in very fine pines and totaras, and gave plenty of employment to the numbers of pit sawyers who flocked there. A sawmill was built about 1860 by Messrs A. Waghorn, McIntosh and Turner, Mr. McIntosh afterwards became sole owner. A man named Fenley, who had had charge of the mill in Duvauchelle, then managed it Messrs Brown and Fraser afterwards took the mill from them. They started the public house in a building which had been intended for a dwelling house. The firm was in existence in Christchurch some years afterwards. The sawmill found work for many years, as valuable timber covered the whole surface of the valley. A tramway ran afterwards right up to the head of the Bay on nearly the same site on which the road now runs.
Messrs W. Pawson, H McIntosh and J. McIntoph cut the first track over to Duvauchelle's: Bay, commonly known as Shaw's line. It ran on the opposite side of the valley to that on which the present road lies. Mr. George Boleyn and Mr. John Bennett cut the first track to Okain's. The manner in which a road was tested in those days, to judge whether the contractors had done their work in a proper manner, was by taking a bullock along it laden with clay This was done to test the track to Okain's. The Rev. Mr. Torlesse, clergyman at Okain's and Little Akaloa, was judge, and his report was
In 1853 Toby Green started the first dairy on the place where Messrs Waghorn now live. Mr G. Ashton soon followed his example, and as the bush was cleared so were fresh dairies commenced. Mr G. Ashton kept up regular communication with the outside world by sailing a whale boat between Little Akaloa and Lyttelton, and carrying the mails. He also carried the Okain's mail, which he conveyed by the track, and rough times he had now and then. The main road to Duvauchelle was made about 1868, and was a great
Of course there were some heavy bush fires in Little Akaloa, but no harm is known to have been done, as the settlers were always on the alert expecting them. The historical fire which spread from Pigeon Bay about forty-five years ago will not be soon forgotten by those who were in the Bay at the time. It was difficult for days to breathe in the smoky atmosphere, Like the rest of the Peninsula in the early times, provisions in the shape of
Mr. T. Duncan, who died about the year 1892 in Christchurch, was the first who settled in Decanter Bay, afterwards owned by Mr. W. Ashton, but since sold by him. There was a Maori pah on Decanter beach, and it was these Maoris who acted as guides to the pioneers of the other bays, having an intuitive knowledge of the way to reach them through the trackless forest
The tidal wave was felt here, as elsewhere on that side of the Peninsula, pretty severely. A vessel, by name the Struggler, had been wrecked just before this, and endeavours were being made to float her again. The wave took her away up the flat, then out to sea and back again, not doing the least damage to her. Mr. McIntosh's house was battered about, and one end of it was lifted up bodily by the water, the piles being washed away from underneath it. It is considered that, if the water had risen half an inch more, it would have wrecked the house completely, as the wave would have come through the front windows. A sandy deposit was left all over the flat, and the houses there had half an inch of mud on the floors. The real harm done. however, was very trivial to what might have been expected.
Very few casualties have occurred in Little Akaloa. The vessels Minnie, Rambler, Caledonia and Mary Ann Christina, the latter a schooner built in the Bay, as also was the ketch Minnie, were at times driven ashore while employed in taking timber to Lyttelton. The wreck of the brig, Clematis, was off the Long Look out. It was a calm clear day, and she ran close in to the Look out to shorten her voyage to Lyttelton. She struck on a sunken rock, and stuck there. The crew left her, and she stayed in that position for a day or two, when a fresh sea came and broke her up. The place where she struck was very close under the headland, and it was peculiarly daring of the
The old wharf was built about thirty six or thirty seven years ago; a Mr. Barnes was the contractor. It was in a position, however, where it was totally undefended from the sea. The new wharf is in a more secured place, and there is deeper water off it.
Perhaps the most exciting event in the Bay was the burning down of the public-houses, and it is no doubt fresh in the memory of most of our readers The first building was unoccupied when burnt. A bar was fitted at once in an out house. This met the same fate. A stable was then used, and that was also burnt, and no more attempts to sell liquor were made. The daring incendiaries, whoever they were, must have been wide awake to escape detection.
The great floods were perhaps more severely felt in Little Akaloa than elsewhere, and were attended with loss of life. a child of Mr. May's being drowned, and another narrowly escaping. The creek bed was so clogged with debris that it dammed itself continually, and the water came down in great waves. Mr. William Ashton lived on the flat, and the creek made a bend round his dwelling. An outhouse, which a day or two before had been filled with provisions, was completely washed away to sea. Mr. Aphton would not leave his house for some time, but finding the creek was dammed above, and fearing danger he shifted over to his father's house, the bridge by which he made his escape going half an hour afterwards. In the morning he found the house completely undermined and unfit for habitation, and he was indeed lucky to have taken his family and himself out of danger. The roads for a considerable period afterwards bore testimony of tbe havoc done, several bridges being washed away.
Little Akaloa is a happy valley, and now the bush is all cleared is tbe home of many settlers, who do not regret their choice. Cheese, grass-seed and wool are the chief exports, and a good quantity of firewood even now finds its way out of the Bay.
German Bay, lying close to Akaroa as it does, is closely associated with its history It was settled as soon as any other Bay on the Peninsula, and when the whole place was a
As we all know, Captain L'Anglois is said to have purchased from the Maoris a great part of our Peninsula, a block consisting of many thousand acres. This block of land extended from Piraki to Pigeon Bay, and included all the land round the harbour with the exception of one or two small places. A boat, it is believed, and some articles of merchandise were the payment for the land £240 was to be the value of the goods given in exchange for this great stretch of fertile country; but it was never proved that anything like that amount was given to the Natives, and the Captain gave up his rights on returning to France to a company by came the Nanto Bordelaise Company. Captain L'Anglois brought out the Comte de Paris for this company with immigrants. The vessel arrived in Akaroa Harbour on 16th August, 1840, just seven months after the New Zealand Company brought out emigrants to
There were six Germans who came out with the French settlers: Messrs Waeckerle, Breitmeyer and Peter Walter were among them. All the Germans formed a settlement in what is now German Bay, the place thus getting its name They chose their five acres apiece there. A track was cut to Akaroa, and the timber in the bush being so good, the settlers employed themselves in pit sawing The land was excellent for cultivation, but growing vegetables on a targe scale did not pay, as there were no people to whom to sell them, although the Maoris would now and then buy potatoes.
Patches of ground in the clearing were sown down in wheat, as flour was a rarity, and the settlers felt the want of it very much, only being able to get a little when a whaler anchored in the harbour. The yield was very great.
Even when these early settlers came, the Maoris round the harbour were not numerous. The French thought, however, that it was as wall to take precautions, as their man-of war could not always stay in harbour to protect, so a guard house was built in German Bay close to the beach, but luckily it was never required for the purpose intended.
Just after the arrival of the immigrants, the New Zealand Company sent down a Mr. Robinson to act as a Resident Magistrate and a constable, This was rather officious on the part of the British, as New Zealand was not declared a British Colony until 1841. This gentleman afterwards bought land in German Bay
By degrees, as the bush was cleared in German Bay, the English flocked there, and soon outnumbered the original settlers. As may be supposed, there were some large bush fires, but little damage was done to the inhabitants, who
The late Mr. Waeckerle lived in the Bay until 1842. He then married and came to Akaroa, where he built a flour mill on the site of Mr. F. Hahn's house. The late Mr. Breitmeyer was the only original settler who had a family, but most of the others in time married and settled down. Almost as soon as the cattle were introduced from Sydney dairying commenced; on a very small scale at first, each calf being of great value, and beef an enormous price. As the land, however, was cleared and sowed down, it became the settlers' chief employment, and, with the production of grass seed, has remained so to the present day.
German Bay was very beautiful when covered in bush, and, unlike many other Bays, has kept its beauty. This is chiefly owing to the early settlers taking care to plant out English trees as the bush was burnt. The willows, which are an important part of the landscape, were grown from slips brought by the emigrants from St. Helena, where they were taken from the tree over Napoleon's grave.
This Bay received its name from the man who first bought land there. Mr. Robinson was sent down to Akaroa to act as a Magistrate by the New Zealand Company, being accompanied by a constable to enforce his authority. This was in 1840 Mr. Robinson bought 100 acres, and tbe land is that where Mr. Williams now resides. He never lived in the Bay for any length of time.
The Bay is a large one, and covered with heavy timber as it was then, it was soon seen that a mill would pay there. The early history of Robinson's Bay is the same as that of the other Peninsula inlets. Runaway sailors here found a refuge, and lived by pit sawing. It was no difficult matter in those daya for sawyers to make £5 or £6 a week, and then not exert themselves very much. The life they led, though lonely, was not an unhappy one. Building a whare in a convenient place by a creek, they stored up a supply of provisions and necessary tools. They varied their fare, and spun out the quantity by occasional raida on the wild pigs and birds, and they had not far to look for these. When they got a decent cheque they revisited the haunts of civilization, and after knocking it down, went back and repeated the same process.
The Pavitts put up the first saw mill in the Bay; Mr S. C. Farr built it on the same site as that on which the mill, afterwards worked by Messrs Saxton and Williams, stands. Mr Hughes also possessed a mill here about the same time. These mills, however, did not cut much timber. In 1865 Messrs Saxton and Williams bought the land now occupied by Mr Saxton. The old mill was found to be in a rather dilapidated state, and not capable of doing much work. The new owners entirely renovated it, employed a great many men, and in a short time produced 1,000,000ft. of timber yearly. The timber was punted out to vessels in the Bay Messrs Lardner and Sims carried a great deal of it away in their punt, Capt. Malcolmson, in the well-known Antelope, and Mr E Latter's vessels, among which were the Foam and the
Nearly all the old settlers now in the Bay, and many in different parts of the Peninsula worked for Messrs Saxton and Williams, thirty hands being employed at the mill. About 50 bullocks were used in dragging the big logs down the hills. The flat, of course, was first cleared, and here forty acres of hay were annually grown for the bullocks. The house of the Pavitts was situated a few yards away from Mr. William's present dwelling. During a bush fire it was burnt, and they had to build a whare in the bush. The bush fires at times were very severe, and once the whole Bay was in a blaze, the inhabitants having to camp out in the open close to the beach.
The late Mr. Johnstone was one of the earliest settlers in Robinson's Bay. Mr. Barnett, of Le Bon's, also lived there before going over the hills. The late Mr. Piper, of Duvauchelle, was in the Bay in the first year of its settlement, where Mr. E. S. Chappell was an early inhabitant. Messrs Whitfield (deceased), Duxbury, W. N. McDonald (deceased), Kingston (deceased) and Tizzard came in a vessel called the Barracouta from the Otago goldfields. The late Mr. Gundy owned the place now occupied by Mr. S. Curry, and was one of the first settlers. Mr B. de Malmanche rented a large portion of Messrs Saxton and Williams' land, that principally which was cleared. The Currya and many others came soon after the mill was started.
Mr. Johnstone, who was bullock driving for the mill owners, and the late Mr. L LeValiant were the first to start dairies. Messrs Saxton and Williams commenced a dairy which they had rented to Mr. B. de Malmanche. On this dairy as many as eighty cows were milked, the buildings being where Mr. William's house now stands. As the land was cleared, the men in employment in the mill
Mr. Saxton came out in the ship Westminster in 1858, in which ship also came the late Messrs A Rodrigues, J. Wilkin and others. Although in the Bay in that year he did not settle there until 1865, when he went into partnership with Mr. Williams, and they started the sawmill.
The only fatal accident which happened in the Bay was that by which a man named Tozer lost his life. He was cross-cutting with Mr. Kingston, and was on the lower side On being sawn through, half of the log rolled on the unfortunate man, and crushed him to death. Mr. Tolly, who afterwards went to Ashburton, once had his leg broken when turning a log drawn by bullocks.
The owners of the mill put up a jetty. They bore all the expense of having it done, besides supplying all the timber, A tramway was laid up to the mill, and extended up the valley three miles This saved a great amount of labour, as vessels came and loaded at the jetty, and the nuisance of punting was done away with, besides saving a lot of work with the bullocks.
The owners of the mill built a school for the children of the men at work, on the site of Mr Morgan's house. Afterwards, when Mr. A C. Knight was Minister of Education, the Government bought land and erected the present school.
It is thirty years ago since all the valuable timber was cut. The old jetty and tramway have long ago gone to ruin, but another wharf has been put up. The settlers in the Bay are considering the erection of a third wharf. The mill property was for a good number of years a sheep station occupied by Mr. Saxton, Dairying is the chief occupation of the settlers in the Bay.
Duvauchelle's Bay is not single like the others, but contains two distinct valleys, each having its own watershed, and seperated by a distinct ridge. In this article we propose to treat of that portion nearest Robinson's Bay, all of which (with the exception of a few sections) is known as Piper's Valley Settlement. The name was derived from two brothers who held a couple of sections under the Nanto Bordelaise Company. They never lived in the Bay, and yet it still bears their name. It was never a French settlement at all, and the first that is known of it is that Rauparaha had a big cannibal feast just where the old tramway crossed the main road. When forming the tramway, Messrs. Piper and Hodgson disinterred many old bones and other relics of those terrible festivities. Messrs Narbey, Jandroit, and others were living in the valley later on, sawing timber The first section disposed of by the Canterbury Association was one of 200 acres, which they gave on their collapse to Lord Lyttelton, Lord Cavendish, and Lord Charles Simeon in part payment of money advanced to the Association. Those 200 acres were first held on a nominal lease from Mr Harman, agent for the nobleman in question, by Mr William Augustus Gordon, brother of the great "Chinese Gordon," whose death at Khartoum startled the civilised world. He resided in the Bay many years, working some time for Mr Piper. He eventually went to Invercargill, where he died. The first land bought under the Canterbury Provincial Land Laws was bought by Messrs Cooper, Hodgson, and Wilson It was purchased in 1857, and consisted of fifty acres. They were sawing there for some eighteen months, and then Mr Harry Pipr made his first purchase in the Bay—a thirty acre section where his house now stands. The history of the Bay, as all the Peninsula men know, is intimately connected with the gentleman we have mentioned. He had arrived in Canterbury in July, 1852, having come cut in the "Old Samarang" with Sir John Hall, Mr A. C. Knight, Mr Wright (chief postmaster at Lyttelton some
After leaving Hay's, Mr. Piper went sawing with Mr Hillier in Pigeon Bay, and after that went boating with old "Skippy," and afterwards sawed with Mr Turner in Pigeon Bay. Mr. James Pawson. of Little Akaloa, came over from Robinson's Bay to flitch for the Pavitts at the sawmill, and Mr. Piper went mates with him, and then went to Henderson's, at the Commercial Hotel, Akaroa (which was on the site now occupied by Messrs T. E. Taylor & Co.'s grocery
The Duvauchelle of to day is a very different place from that of the old times, when the sawmill was first estab lished. Where the mighty totaras once proved a home for thousands of native birds, good succulent grasses nourish stock which brings wealth to their proprietors and revenue to the Colonial Government. Many regret the passing away of the old order of things, and sentimentalise over the loss of those timbered solitudes where supplejacks were thick and the wild pig luxuriated; but we cannot help fancying that to the thinking person the present landscape is far more gratifying. True gloomy Rembrandt like shadows have disappeared, and the tui no longer plumes his jewelled wings on the summit of some forest monarch; but in the stead of the past beauties are smiling slopas of grass, which carry in thousands those gentle friends of man, whose feet are truly said to make golden the soil over which they pass. It must not for a moment be thought that the settlers in Duvauchelle have had no idea of preserving the original loveliness of the valley. A large patch
The great floods of 1886 did much damage in Duvauchelle, A tremendous slip from the Okain's road covered the rich alluvial flat with clay, and the creek brought down boulders and rubbish till the woolshed was threatened, fences covered to the top rail, and much good pasture ruined for the time. Many of the young gum trees died from the lower portion of their trunks being covered, and it was many years before traces of the disastrous event were obliterated.
Messrs Hay and Sinclair were the first settlers in this Bay. It was in the year 1844 in the month of April that these gentlemen, leaving their families in Wellington, sailed in a schooner from that port to seek land in the south, where they had heard of fine plains. They bad originally left Scotland in 1889, and were going first of all to settle in the north, but the tales they had heard of the Canterbury and Taieri Plains made them very anxious to explore them. On arrival at Lyttelton, their first port of call, they did not know the exact locality of the Plains, but seeing the hills low at the head of Governor's Bay, they thought that must be the road. Accordingly they climbed to the saddle of what is now Gebbie's Pass, but on arrival found to their disappointment only what they thought was sea on the other side, which was of course the waters of Lake Ellesmere. They then determined to try for the Taieri, and accordingly sailed for Port Chalmers, and landed up by Anderson's Bay; but they were again unsuccesrful, not going far enough to find the level land. They then determined to return north again, and sailed for Pigeon Bay, whither they had been driven by stress of weather on the way down. Here Mr Sinclair announced his intention of making his home, as he was tired of wandering, and Mr Hay decided to do the same. It was then agreed that Mr Sinclair should occupy that part of the bay now known as Holmes's Bay, but then as Sinclair's, Mr Hay taking the main bay itself. They then returned to Wellington, and brought down their families and some four head of cattle, and farming and other implements, amongst which was a plough and harness. At the time of the landing Mr and Mrs Sinclair had three sons and three daughters, and Mr and Mrs Hay two sons (Messrs James and Thomas Hay), then three and two years old respectively. The two families lived together for nearly two years, first in a tent, and then in a thatched whare.
We may here say that the inducement to settle in Pigeon Bay was that there was a settlement in Akaroa considered
There was a fortnightly mail at that time, and the want of a school began to be keenly felt Mr Hay bad some private teachers, not, however, of much ability, and then came Mr Knowles and established the first school. Mr Gillespie followed, and immensely increased the reputation of the school, and then came Mr Fitzgerald, and to him came many pupils from Christchurch, and in fact all Canterbuy. It was then, indeed, a most successful enterprise. The gold discoveries of Australia began to have a very beneficial influence at this time. Besides clearing out a great many of the old dissolute sawyers and whalers, it increased the price of produce enormously Oats went up to 8s per bushel, and potatoes to £8 and £10 per ton, and the settlers thrived, Afterwards the Dunedin diggings broke out, and so prices never got very low for years after. The cocksfoot industry on the Peninsula was started by Mr. Hay. He gave at the rate of 2s 6d per lb. for the first seed, which he found did wonderfully well in the Bay. Soon it spread, and a demand set in, and in one year Messrs Hay Bros. sold no less than 70 tons at 8d per lb. Mr. Hay was never covetous of land He always wished to see neighbours around him, and encouraged them to settle. When he died in 1863 he had only really acquired between 900 and 1000 acres, but he had the pre emptive right over 2000 more. During the subsequent trusteeship the estate enormously increased in value and acreage. It was eventually purchased by Messrs James and Thomas Hay, the eldest sons, from the rest of the family, and is now, as all Canterbury know, one of the finest estates in the colony. Some years ago, however, a great misfortune occurred. On the 18th August, 1886, a terrible slip came from the bills above the Annandale homestead, and utterly overwhelmed it, burying tbe gatherings—the relics of forty years - in a sea of mud. Luckily it happened in the day time, and there was no loss of life. The bay is one of the best on the Peninsula. A well managed Road Board has secured good roads for it. It has been well and thoroughly c'eared and grassed, and its future is fully assured, as all can see who visit its many smiling hemesteads.
The following is an interesting account of an attempt amongst the Maoris to break the "tapu" in Pigeon Bay in 1853:—It appears that late in the year two sealing boats, carrying about twenty five Maoris and half castes, amongst which were some pretty girls, arrived in Pigeon Bay from Dunedin. Most of these settled in the Bay, and as a good proportion of the men had been whaling, they were superior in their ideas to the old Maori superstitions, and laughed at the idea of "tapu." A well known Maori, named Toby, who had been headsman in whaling boats for many years, took the lead in the movement, and after many and many a "kerero," he and those who doubted the virtue of "tapu "resolved to test it by attempting to seize two large sealing boats over which the sacred Maori halo had been thrown, viz, the one from which Bloody Jack had been knocked overboard and drowned whilst trying to land at Timaru, and another owned by the young chief Hapukuku These two boats were each under a bark whare upon the small flat near the present wharf, and the reason for wishing to utilise them was that the Natives at that time nearly supplied Lyttelton with firewood and potatoes, which they hawked round from house to house upon their backs, and that these two boats would carry quite as much as five whaleboats. At this time there were two kaiks in the bay. Thiah's occupied the fiat near the wharf, with a population of about seventy five. The other (Kingston's) was at the head of the bay, with some 150, besides a few at
Strangers arrive in hot blood ready to fight for the old custom, and it nearly came to a contest, only the renegades were too few; so that after three day's feasting, koreroing, and blazing away powder, it was decided to cremate the boats. The boats were hauled to low water, covered with dry scrub, and burned, the natives during the conflagration, doing a cry. Thus ended the largest native gathering on the Peninsula since the white man's time.
Although the bays called Duvauehelle and Head of the Bay are often called by each other's name, the bay in which Messrs Piper, Barwick, and Libeau lived is strictly Duvauchelle. That in which the County Council Office and Post Office is, is really the Head of the Bay. They are in reality one bay, though two distinctive valleys run back. Mr Libeau was the first white man who lived in Duvauchelle or Head of the Bay. He came ashore from a whaler and built a whare on the spot where his son's house now stands. He arrived a year after the French immigrants came out to Akaroa, and was the father of the present resident. For many years the only inhabitants of the Head of the Bay were a number of sawyers. Many of them afterwards became settlers. Among them were Peter Connelly, Joseph Bruneau, Cortner Nicholas, Louis LeValliant, Bernard and his nephew, and Jas. Piper. The timber in the valley was nearly all totara and black pine, white pine growing on the flats close to the seashore. Like the rest of the Peninsula, the Head of the Bay was covered in dense bush, which ran down to the water's edge. Even in those times, when pigs were plentiful all over the country, the Head of the Bay was famous as literally swarming with them. Many and exciting are the tales told of pig hunts in this locality, in the old days, by the early settlers.
The Pawsons arrived in the Bay in 1850, and cut the timber for the public house about to be built Mr Pawson, sen., came out to Port Nicholson in 1840, at the same time as the late Mr Jas. Wright, of Wainui, in the Coromandel, after a very stormy passage of nine months, six weeks of which were spent in the Cove of Cork repairing the damage caused by a terrific gale the vessel experienced shortly after commencing the voyoge. The family remained in the Wellington Province for nine years, and then left for Lyttelton in the Queen. From Lyttelton they came to Little Akaloa in a ketch commanded by Captain Bruce, of Bruce Hotel notoriety. The boat belonged
Bush fires were pretty common in those early days. At the time the whole Peninsula was on fire, starting from Pigeon Bay, the whole of the bush in the Head of the Bay was killed, and the fire, bursting out afresh at intervals, was burning from January to May. The settlers in the Bay have been very fortunate, as there has never been a fatal accident there, the only serious one remembered being that by which a man lost his legs through having them crushed under a tree when he was bushfalling.
The public house was first owned by Messrs Tribe and Selig. Afterwards Mr. Pawson, sen., became owner, and Mr John Anderson took it from him. Mr. Shadbolt then bought it. Messrs Vanstone, Barker and Brookes each managed the hotel after this, Mr. Shadbolt taking charge of it again where they had left it. Mr Cooper had it after it was re-built, after being burnt down during the ever memorable hotel burning period, Mr. and Mrs. Wilson afterwards ruled there most worthily.
During the early years in the history of the bay, the want of a school was much felt, for there were many children in the bay belonging to the men working at the mill, and a place of worship was also much needed. Lord Lyttelton therefore gave half an acre for the purpose, and the men clubbed together and gave timber and work until they had erected a suitable building. The half-acre is that on which the church now stands, though it has been re built.
The Akaroa and Wainui Road Board was shifted from Akaroa to the Head of the Bay in 1878. The office stood where the Courthouse now is. The permanent road to Little Akaloa from the Bay was made about 1864 At the same time the road from Akaroa to Christchurch was made up Red John's Gully. The evidence of the Board's usefulness is visible everywhere, and the bay is perhaps the most central position where its headquarters could be situated. The County Council's offices were built; in 1879, and the Post and Telegraph Office in the same year.
Messrs Barker (father of Mr Beilby Barker) and Fry established the line of coaches running from Christchurch aad Pigeon Bay to Akaroa Mr. S. Lee owned the business for some considerable time. Mr B. Barker, Mr R. Paton, and Messrs Webster & Cusdin have owned the coaching business in turn till the advent of the motor car, Mr Cusdin still runs a coach from Duvauchelle to Little River. Mr Pilkington's cars have reduced the time be tween Akaroa and Little River, making it a most enjoyable run. In this year (1914), the prospects of the railway being carried to Barry's Bay are brighter than they have ever been, and our magnificent harbour is bound to be tapped before many years are over.
There are interesting associations of the past in this bay, lying, as it does, over that rugged coast, between Piraki and Land's End, as the west bead of the harbour is called. It receives its name from a towering rock guarding the entrance, and rising up out of the troubled waters like an old castle. The bay is lonely and deserted, and the traces of those who lived there long ago are fast disappearing. It is open to the sou'-west, and heavy seas roll in there at times, as the cave worn sides and the heaps of smooth boulders on the beach testify well. Island Bay was inhabited by whalers in the early days: those brave men who lived hard lives and thought danger a pleasure. Since the whales left the coast the bay has been deserted and lonely.
The Maoris had a pah here. Traces of their stone walls and huts are still to be seen, and greenstone to be found. The writer picked up a small chisel of this substance, and many handsome implements formed of it have been discovered from time to time. The Maoris, io fact all of them along this coast, were a wild race, Horrible stories are told of their cannibalism, and some of the white men earliest in the bays have witnessed their ungodly feasts. When the Maoris wanted to settle a quarrel they went about it in quite a businesslike manner. Over they went to Wakamoa, the next bay towards the Heads, and after they had had enough and buried their dead, came home. The ridges, graves of many a stalwart warrior, are conspicuous yet. The Natives living in Island Bay had a fine natural fortress, for it was almost impregnable. Thick heavy bush behind, steep walls on either side (for it was quite a stiff climb into the bay), and a beach on which it is comfortable to land only when the weather is fine. A slip while climbing the rocky sides would be dangerous. A story is told of a Maori woman who was collecting firewood on the spur. She tied a bundle to her back and commenced to descend; slipping, she rolled from the top to the bottom, and little life was
About 1840 whaling stations were established along the coast, at Ikeraki, Peraki, Oauhau, and Island Bay. Whales were plentiful at that time, and there was always plenty of employment for the boats of the whalers. Two large boilers, set in stone, are still in the bay, and there were others, which have disappeared. There is also an arrangement for hauling the whales on shore, fixed on the same principle as the capstan of a ship. Heaps of whalebone litter the beach and the sides of the creek. A great quantity of it has, it is said, been carried away to bone dust factories. Staves of innumerable casks are piled up around the boilers. One can imagine the wild scene the bay presented on some dark night, from the sea, when the whalers were busy boiling down, the fires blazing up, and showing their forms distinctly against the background of heavy bush The stormy seas which frequently roll into the bay show signs of having been far up the creek, where lie embedded great pieces of whalebone.
Messrs W. Green (after whom Green's Point is named), C. Brown and Hall were the first owners of the Island Bay fishery. After leaving the station, Charlie Brown went away in a whaling vessel never afterwards heard of, and supposed to have been wrecked on the coast. Hall left Akaroa one day in a whaleboat with a quantity of provisions for the bay. The boat and its crew were never seen again. It is supposed that they got fast to a whale and were capsized, as the last time the boat was seen, it was close to one that was spouting about the head of the
No wrecks have actually occurred in Island Bay itself. A brig was lost between it and Land's End over twenty years ago, and all hands drowned She was laden with timber, great quantities of it floating up Akaroa Harbour. Snufflenose, where the ill fated Clyde was lost, is a little way round the coast towards Piraki It isbelieved that other vessels have met their fate on this point, as wreckage has been found from time to time. There would be little hope for mariners whose vessel dashed on the rocks under those cliffs on a wild night, for the wind blows with terrific force into the bight, and it has been supposed that a current gets into it from the open ocean, so that the danger was fearful indeed before the lighthouse was erected
The spurs slope gently down from the tragic Bossu, connected with so many weird disappearances and
The view from Mt. Bossu is a grand one—on one side the harbour, on the other the bight, across which are seen the snow clad Alps, and, terminating the coast, the waters of Ellesmere. There are many picturesque spots in the bay, and the bracing winds from the open ocean make it a healthy place. There is a waterfall close to Island Bay two hundred feet high, which is a grand sight.
Little River was one of the latest settled portions of the Peninsula, although it is one of the most important places now It is the outlet from the harbour to the Plains, and all of the Bay roads converge towards it. The settlement, consisting as it does of large valleys and fertile flats, well watered, was, it is not difficult to perceive even now, covered in dense hush. When the mills were at work it was a really lively place, and is still very prosperous. The timber has now been all cut, and most of the bush has disappeared. Since it has gone—once the chief export—Little River has depended on its dairying and cocksfooting, there being a large area of land suitable for dairying purposes.
The Maoris in the early times had a pah at the mouth of the Little River. Tikawilla, or a person of some such name, was the chief. These Maoris obtained their food from where Little River now is, hunting the wild pigs, and killing the wild birds. Little River was famous far its birds. The traveller through it in former years was always enchanted by the songs, scarcely ever ceasing, of the denizens of the bush It was also a most beautiful place—prettier than it is now, —and some of the largest trees on the Peninsula grew there The Maoris were rich in provisions, for the river and lake swarmed with tunas (eels) and other native fish. When Rauparaha came down with his warriors he sent some of his men over to Little River, but hearing of their approach, the Natives did not wait their arrival, but left their home for a time. It has always been, however, the district where the Maoris were in the largest number. A great many still live there, are on terms of equality with the European settlers, and own much of the best land about there. The Maoris annually grew large patches of kumaras on the hills above Harman's track.
Mr. Price was in Kaiapoi as early as 1831, Shortly afterwards he was whaling along the Peninsula Bays, and while at Ikeraki came over to Little River. Seeing the
Mr Birdling also came from the fisheries, and bought up land about the River, forming that grand property now possessed by his family, and from which some of the best stock in New Zealand is sent to the Addington market. There was a good deal of sawing done in Little River in the old times, a great many runaway sailors from the whaling vessels around the coast congregating there. The lower flats were covered with tutu, Maori cabbage and other vegetation, and it was difficult travelling to reach the valley. Wm. Wood, commonly known as Paddy Wood, who started Oauhau whaling station, was in Little River early, and bad land there. Messrs White and Coop were the first to start the saw mill. The old building is still to be seen just opposite the Railway Station. To start a saw-mill there was a much more difficult matter then than could be considered possible now. The engine was dragged from Christchurch by bullock, and a great undertaking it was. When the mill was fixed up, there was no lack of material for it to work on. A tramway was made to Lake Forsyth. This carried the timber, which was punted over the small lake to Birdling's Flat. Here it was put on another tramway, and conveyed to Lake Ellesmere, over which it was taken in punts and crafts to Hart's Creek, Leeston. At one time there were several vessels employed oo the lake for this purpose. A steamer aiso was built at Stoney Point. There is very little left now to remind one of these doings. A jetty is still standing, which runs into Lake Forsyth, where the Christchurch Regatta is sometimes held. The tramway has disappeared. The timber
The first dairies started in Little River were those of Messrs Stanbury and G. W. Joblin. These dairies supplied the men working at the timber, and were very profitable then. As the bush was cleared the land was sown down and cocksfoot cut. As soon as the railway line was made to Birdling's Flat the Terawera sawmill was started, and did a lot of work. The Western Valley mill was started over twenty years ago, but has now completed its work. Mr. Stanbury made the road over the hill into the harbour. Little River has a County Council, called the Wairewa County Council, of its own, and it has charge of a large district.
The new school was built about 1880, and the English Church before that, also the Maori Church on the Maori reserve. Both of these churches are prettily situated on the top of small hills, and are very picturesque. The Maori Hall, a commodious building, was erected in 1885, and is a great boon to the settlement, and public amusements have been held there for some years. Formerly the inhabitants were badly off in this respect. An up to date town hall has recently been built there. The Lake Forsyth Arms Hotel was built many years ago, and it is unfortunate for travellers that it was not built nearer the spot where the railway ends, The horrible murder which took place at this hotel will be long remembered. A Russian Fin
Perhaps the most picturesque of the bays on Lyttelton Harbour is that known as Charteris. It is so called from the surveyor who originally measured its area, and is of very considerable extent. Separated by a spur from the head of Lyttelton Harbour, it is in reality the valley of Mt. Herbert, the highest peak of our Peninsula, whose giant summits are far loftier than those famed heights of which Macaulay sang in his glorious verses that tell of the fiery warning that flashed through England when the Armada was seen approaching. As seen from the bay, Mt. Herbert has two great peaks The one of greatest altitude is smooth to the summit, and towers in calm serenity over a frowning rocky peak, which at the first glance appears the real monarch, but in reality is some 200 feet lower. The saddle between these two is really the commencement of Charteris Bay; and from the very topmost tier of the hard rocks that crown the latter, gushes the spring that is the source of the large creek which finds its way into the harbour in the centre of the bay. It is said this spring is so near the peak that a very little work would cause it to flow in the opposite direction. However, after a somewhat precipitous course, it reaches the head of a beautiful valley some three miles in length, along which it runs to the sea, forming many a cool pool and miniature waterfall in its fertilising progress. Half way down the valley its course is confined within rather narrow limits by a great barrier of volcanic rock that almost closes the upper flats from those below. Very little labour would make this a strong-hold such as Blackmore tells us of in "Lorna Doone," a place where, in the days gone by, a stately dame could in perfect safety dish up those storied spurs which warned her husband and sons that it was time to proceed on another cattle stealing expedition. From this point the valley rapidly extends in width, and is exceptionally fertile and well grassed
The floods of over twenty years ago did considerable damage, bringing down great masses of shingle, and
It was Dr Moore to whom fate allotted Charteris Bay when the sections were drawn for in England, and he came out to Lyttelton in the Sir James Pollock in 1851 He had neighbours on both sides, for the late Mr. Manson, Mr. Gebbie, and their families had settled at the Head of the Bay in 1845, and Mr. Fleming was located at Port Levy, and Mr. Rhodes at Purau Dr Moore brought some good cattle out with him, and it was in Charteris Bay that the nucleus of those Peninsula herds, which afterwards became so famous for their production of butter, cheese and beef, were first reared. Brother Phil, Cranberry. His Honour, and General Wolfe amongst the bulls, and Flash, Duchess, Creamy, and an Alderney named Dunny amongst the cows were household words amongst the Peninsula pioneers, and for a long time no female scion of
The old buildings erected by Dr Moore are still standing In fact he built the house in which the Bradleys used to reside, though of course it had been repaired and altered. He had also a stone dairy and stalls, but these are fast falling into decay. The house is pleasantly situated on rising land about half a mile from the beach. In front is a fine view of the bay, Rabbit Island, and the long peninsula which nearly joins it, and so much reminds one of Onawe in Akaroa Harbour. In the foreground are newly grassed paddocks, a few stately trees, the pretty homestead of Mr. Hay, and the school buildings, which are very neat. At the back of the house is a splendid plantation of gums, with here and there a pinus insignis and a macrocarpa. In the bank at the back a cellar has been
The lower part of this beautiful Bay was the property of the Messrs Masefield Bros. when the first edition of "Stories of Banks Peninsula" was published, but it now belongs to Mr. V. V. Masefield, Mr. William Masefield having gone to the Sounds.
The Native name of the Bay is Okururu, and the Messrs Masefield Bros. quite agreed with the writer that it is a great pity the Maori appellation was ever altered. It appears that the present designation was given to it from a man named Gough, who lived there for many years among the Natives. These north-east bays were amongst the last settled on the Peninsula, owing to the difficulty of access, and of getting away stock or shipping produce. This was particularly the case with Okururu, that during the great kai huanga, or eat relation feud, many Maoris fled there in hopes of escaping the visits of their enemies by seeking a locality, the paths to which were almost inaccessible, and known to but few. Enterprising Europeans, however, soon ascertained the exceeding richness of the soil, and a French settler named M. Guin purchased a section on the flat, and sent M. Peter Malmanche there to occupy it, and took some cattle over. The difficulty of landing, however, on the Gough's Bay beach was proved in this case, for the boat conveying M. Malmanche and his things were capsized in the surf, and although all hands landed safely, a large box, containing his wife's clothes and some other things, went to sea. M. Malmanche was in despair, but next morning, on visiting the shore, he was delighted to see the box high and dry on the sand. His spirits immediately revived, and he ran towards it; but what was his horror to find it was merely a shell, for the treacherous ocean had dashed out the bottom, and the valuable contents were, alas! "full fathom five" Peter Malmanche lived there some time, but a mysterious accident occurred, which for a period gave the bay an evil reputation. One night he retired to rest as usual, but when his wife awoke in the morning he was
Besides an excellent dwelling house, there is a large woolshed, excellent yards, and all the other usual appliances of successful sheep farming. Of course there is a dairy; and speaking of this, when the Messrs Masefield first went to the bay they had cattle on the place, and a nice job they used to have with them, for the bay was then of course all bush, and it was a terrible worry to get the cattle out, for horses could not be used in such country. To hear the marvellous adventures of one snail horned bullock that would persist in preferring Gough's Bay to the West Coast, is enough to make one's hair stand on end, but it is satisfactory to know that after all his extraordinary capers he eventually gladdened the hearts and stomachs of the Hokitika miners. The house is a comparatively new one, the former erection in which the mysterious noises used to be so prevalent, having been burnt down. This fire had very nearly a fatal termination. The origin was unknown, but Mr. Valentine Masefield, awaking one night, discovered the place was burning. He made for the outer door and got it open, and then called to Mr W. Masefield, who was sleeping in another room. The door was fastened on the inside, and no doubt was jammed, and Mr. W. Masefield, after trying it, was obliged by the smoke to retreat to his bed, where he threw himself down, expecting to be suffocated. Mr V. Masefield, however, never lost his presence of mind, but running to the outside window, he broke the panes of glass, and tore out part of the sash by main strength. The fresh air rushing in revived his brother, and he came to the windsw, and somehow was dragged through, badly burned, but safe. It was only just in time, for five minutes later the house fell in, one great mass of flame. There is a clump of ngaios and other native scrub at the back of the house, and a few gums planted amongst them have grown wonderfully well.
Going to the beach, which is half a mile from the house, one skirts a beautiful piece of bush that the Messrs. Mase field have left for ornamental purposes. These gentlemen deserve the thanks of all lovers of nature for the care they have exercised in this respect. Every here and there groups of the finest trees have been left, which add to the beauty of the scene, afford shelter to the stock, and a thousand times repay the grazing value of the land they cover Barbarous vandalism and a desperate greed for every blade of grass has spoiled the beauty of many a Peninsula home, and the efforts that are now being made to raise plantations of pinus insignus and other trees show what a wise thing it would have been to have spared a few patches of that unrivalled native bush that, once destroyed, no art can replace. The creek is crossed by a bridge of a very long single span, the great kowhai stringers of which show their elasticity, as well as their strength, as one passes over. The road is that by which the wool and grass-seed is taken to the shipping place, and winds round the base of the hills. There is sand on the borders of the creek. It is black sand, like that of Taranaki, and is full of metal, which can be easily separated from it by washing. A little out of the road is an interesting ngaio tree, on which a disappointed Maori ended his troubles over twenty years ago. It appears that he swung grimly in the air, like an old highwayman on a heath, for many a day, but that at last his friends scooped a deep hole in the ground beneath the tree, and, severing the rope by which he was suspended, let him fall into it. These bones, however, were not destined to rest for long, for a medical gentleman of Akaroa wanted a good skeleton, and, hearing of this, disinterred it and carried it away in triumph, Maori bones are common in Gough's, and the sitting room was once decorated with the bleached skulls, and huge femurs of two grim old warriors, the desecration of whose remains in "kai huanga" times might doubtless have caused a thousand deaths, The tapu surrounding them, however, has now loss its power, and the little hands of children have turned into playthings these mouldering
Here was a sawmill, which was busy for some years cutting the totara, matai and kahikatea, which abounded on the table land above, known as Grown Island Gully. It originally belonged to M B. Malmanche. Past where the mill was we come to a pathway hewn out of of the rock, and leading to the shipping place, It cost some £150 to form this rocky track, and put down the tramway and erect the crane. It was hard work, but it has answered well, for a steamer can now come in to within a few chains of the place where the produce is lowered into the boat; and besides that shipping can always go on except in southerly weather. The scene here is very grand a great flat rock partially protects the haven where the boats are loaded, and against this the sea breaks in most imposing waves. There are some curious caves in these rocks, and one goes right through the cliff. It was through this that Mr. W. Masefield once came after a rather dangerous swim. Mr. Pilliett had said no man could swim through the surf, and one day, when a nasty sea was rolling in, and Mr. Adams was present, he resolved to prove to the contrary He got through the surf all right, but the drawback was too strong for him to return, and, finding he was getting exhausted, he made for some flat rocks outside the Heads, and thence by climbing and swimming he reached the other side of the cavern, and, watching his chance, came through. Those who have seen the place can alone realise the difficulty of the feat. On one occasion he swam off to the Red Rover, which was coming in to take away cheese and bacon. It was blowing
A few Maoris were living here to within forty years ago. Some ten years before this the Natives then residing there purchased a boat from a man named Howland, living in Okain's. The boat was principally putty and paint, and proved a terrible bargain to the unfortunate purchasers. One day all the resident Maoris, with the exception of three women, went out in this boat to fish on tbe bank, which is some two or three miles out to sea. They caught a great number of huge hapuka, and these flapping about
The old landing place was under the south head. Here it was only possible to ship in very calm southerly weather, and even then was very dangerous. There is a great cave here under the cliff, and at the time of our visit a grand king penguin occupied a ledge on it, and blinked at us as we lay watching the waves roll in. There is a curious cleft in the cliff here, about 15 feet above the level, and one day, curious to find what it contained, the Messrs Masefield Bros. took down a ladder and inspected it. Inside, within the once warm folds of a cloak of pigeon's feathers, lay the mouldering bones of a little child. How many years had passed since tender hands
The other residents in the Bay were Messrs George Kearney and Lelievre Bros. Both have fine properties, stretching from the end of the flat to the summit of the range, In the years to come, we have little doubt that all these gentlemen will have many tenants, and that this beautiful Bay—as in the days of old—will support a large population.
Very beautiful is the head of the Piraki Valley. Thick bush spreads out just below the Summit, and here were still to be found, a very few years ago, the wild pigs in considerable numbers. Here also is one of the last haunts of the native pigeon, and the mako makos, tuis, and other birds swarm in thousands. The track winds on the left-hand side of the gully going down, and crosses the first tongue of bush running out on to the tussocked peaks pretty near the summit. In making this road a strange thing occurred. Though the track was cut through the virgin bush, where none had been known to go before, the largest tree at the creek crossing, a large broadleaf was found to have been carved with the letters L, y, A, r The gully was thereupon called after the lady who was then Miss Lucy Aylmer, and it bears her name on the Government maps to this day. The hills on the right hand side of the valley are very steep in places, and there is one great beetling crag that overlooks the valley, out of which springs a marvellous stone steeple, a splinter formed by some convulsion of nature into an exceptional shape. Above this again towers the Devil's Gap, a great double rock, between the pinnacles of which the road to Little River passes. Grey and stern as they are at the summit, near the base these rocks are clad in the loveliest foliage, and wherever a fissure in their sides gives room for a root to penetrate, there is a curtain of emerald leaves. For a long way the beauty of the scene is unmarred by the so-called improvements, and we feel we are really travelling under the shadow of "the forest primeval," but, on a corner being turned, the usual hideous array of trunk-covered ground and bare sticks, which look what they really are—the naked skeletons of burnt trees tortured in the fire—spring up around us.
On reaching the burnt ground, we came to a creek that has had its rocky bed torn into strange shapes by a great slip from the top of the overlooking spurs. Mr Worsley was camped near when the slip came down, and woke and
The great historical interest in Piraki centres in the old whaling settlement that once existed on the beach. From Mr. Anson's house to the sea one cannot make a step to the sea without being reminded of the incidents recorded in Hempleman's famous diary. It will be remembered that it was at that place the brig Bee landed Hempleman and his men to prosecute the whale fishery in the year 1835. There are still thousands of the bones of whales to testify the success of the party. Great heaps of them are all around one, standing at high water mark, and there are more sad memorials also in the mounds that mark the spot where some of these adventurous men, who met their death by drowning, lie buried. On the left hand side, looking seaward, is a rock called Simpson's Rock, where that veteran whaler used to look out for whales and nearly underneath it is the point where the unfortunate steamer Westport received the injuries that eventually caused her total loss. The site of the "Long House," the principal building in the old whaling times, is still visible, and go are the places where the caldrons were fixed, in which the oil was tried out. It was here that Bloody Jack came with his followers to demand the lives of those North Island Maori boys that were working there; the safety of one of whom was purchased by Hempleman and his men by the present of a boat. By the by, we have all heard that Hempleman saved the life of one of these boys by haading him up in a cask, and so hiding him from his enemies; but an altogether new version of this story is now current. It appears it was not one of the boys at all who was headed up in a cask, but a young fellow who came from Wairewa to Piraki, and who, knowing that Bloody Jack and his party were coming to Piraki, kept it a secret from Hempleman When the party did come, and the boy Jacky was killed, and the other lad ransomed for the boat. Hempleman was so angry at not having received warning from this man of danger,
Dating the publication of this last edition of the "Tales of Banks Peninsula," Mr F. A. Anson, whose name is associated with the account of Piraki written for the second edition, paid a visit to New Zealand to dispose of the Piraki property. It was little thought it would be his last visit; but only a few months ago news was received of his death. When Mr Anson was in Akaroa, the writer had a conversation with him regarding the contradiction of the old story about the importance of the ceremony of hoisting the flag at Green's Point, Akaroa, August 11. 1840 It will be remembered that on August 11th, 1890, there was a ceremony at the spot in commemoration of Captain Stanley's prompt action. In those days there was nothing to mark the place where the Union Jack was run up. Mr Anson bad always taken a keen interest in the early history of the Peninsula, and he suggested that the Peninsula people should put up a monument at Green's Point in 1897 to mark the place where the flag was hoisted, and, as all know, the monument was erected there. On his last visit, Mr Anson had the names inscribed on the monument of those instrumental in erecting it– a very fortunate thing as so many of the old people have passed away. Mr. Anson bad read all Messrs R. McNab's and Andersen's letters denying that the Akaroa ceremony of 1840 was of any importance, and he stated to the writer that he could not understand the attitude taken up by these gentlemen. He declared that up to 1897 no one ever doubted that Captain Stanley was taking possession of the South Island, and he had known many of the old hands intimately. Mr Anson is best known historically by his publication of "Hempleman's Log" in December, 1910, with an excellent glossary. He told the writer it was his intention to go into the matter of hoisting the flag, and in October,
1913, the following letter appeared in the Christchurch "Press," which is worthy of reproduction in this article, and helps to prove very conclusively that the story of the chase down the coast in August, 1840, told in the early pages of this work, is no myth:—
"Sir,—It is with feeling of rather varying interest that I read in London on August 11th (memorable date), the letter published on this subject signed Johannes C. Andersen, Christchurch, July 21st. With your permission, I would like to show him that the late Dean of Westminster was under no delusion when he had the brass tablet put up in our cathedral church to commemorate his brother's smart achievement as Commander of H. M. S. Britomart. Neither were the Akaroa County residents making any mistake at all, when, at my instigation, they subscribed in 1897 for the erection of an obelisk at Green Point, which should serve as a lasting memorial of the Queen Victoria Diamond Jubilee, and at the same time mark the spot where the Union Jack had been hoisted by Captain Stanley in 1840, and sovereignty over the 'Middle' Island thereby secured for Britain, instead of France. Mr Andersen tells us that there was 'no race at all,' 'no ceremony of taking possession,' and no 'mystery whatever.' But Hobson's letter of secret instruction to Stanley is dated July 22nd, the very day on which 'sail was loosed and cable shortened at eight o'clock in the morning' on the old Britomart, 'the anchor was hoisted and sail made at eleven,' while, according to Baron de Thierry, 'the French frigate (L'Aube) soon followed her.' This letter enjoins 'the most inviolab
secrecy on the subject of this commission,' and even goes so far as to suggest that 'the conveying of two magistrates to Port Nicholson' (Wellington) may be made 'the most ostensible purpose of your cruise," the 'real object' being to 'at once depart with the utmost expedition to Akaroa and Banks Peninsula,' so that on 'his (Captain Lavaud's) arrival at that port he may find you in occupation,' and unable 'to dislodge you without committing some direct act of hostility.' Can it be truly said that mystification was not intended here? or that there was 'no race,' when in obedience to those urgent instructions Captain Stanley's prompt action enabled him to have the British flag flying on Green Point (though his boats had not returned from 'proclaiming' at Piraki and Price's Fishery) before the arrival of the Aube on August 15. As regards Mr. Andersen's contention that Stanley 'did not come to Akaroa to take possession, but merely to hold courts for magisterial purposes,' I need only say here that, if 'the flag was hoisted' (an integral part of the taking possession ceremony) 'and courts held at five places… Piraki Bay being one of the four' (sic), there is no mention of a 'court' having been held on August 15 in the Piraki log, but only the arrival of a man of war's boat 'to issue our proclamations respecting the land of New Zealand.' Certainly, it is stated in Hobson's letter that 'the magistrates will be instructed to hold a court on their arrival at each port, and to have a record of their proceedings registered and transmitted to' him, but until these records are forthcoming it is open to question if the courts were ever held But, suerly, before we begin to 'surmise' on incomplete evidence about details in connection with the events of long ago, it would be advisable to review the Native position of affairs in the North and Middle Islands at that time; consider carefully the scope of French and British aspirations in regard to them, and piece together every scrap of reliable information obtainable Then only we can start making deductions from authenticated facts as to what must have been running in Lieutenant-Governor Hobson's mind when he penned this letter of secret instruction to Captain Stanley on July 22, 1840 To take the Native position first:—During the thirties of last century, not only the North Island itself, but also that part of the 'Middle Island'—now known as Marlborbugh Province—was owned and ruled over by a number of independent North Island chiefs; while the Ngaitahu warriors, a tribe quite distinct and speaking in another dialect, held sway over ail the rest of the country, Stewart's Island included. Cloudy Bay, therefore—where Major Bunbury proclaimed British sovereignty by right of Native cession on June 17, 1840— was North Island property; Stewart's Island, where 'he did not meet with the Natives,' and therefore (June 5) proclaimed by right of discovery' only, was merely an outlying portion of Ngaitahu territory, which extended northward to the Kaikoura range In the South Island (with which we are concerned) during this decade, the chief Ariki, of the Ngaitahu, had been taken prisoner and brutally murdered by the northern chief, Te Rauparaha. The tribe had been decimated and driven to take refuge like a scattered flock of sheep in the extreme south, but in the latter thirties they were recovering their spirit under two new chiefs, and bad made more than one successful attack upon their northern enemy in Cloudy Bay In 1837, they sold a block of land, some fifteen miles square, on Banks Peninsula to a French whaler named L'Anglois and the same block of land a second time, in 1839, to George Hempleman, the Prussian owner of a shore whaling station in Piraki Cove. In both islands missionary effort was making progress, but mostly in the north, where white men were coming to trade, or live, with the Maoris in greater numbers every year. The French whaler, L'Anglois, went back to France after purchasing the Akaroa block of land, and before very long had succeeded so well in stirring up an interest in the colonisation of New Zealand that by the end of the year 1839 the newly formed Nanto Bordelaise Company had appointed him to command the Comte de Paris, which was only waiting for intending emigrants to come on board before sailing for New Zealand to settle them on the already purchased Akaroa land The French Government, too, had taken the matter up, and had ordered the frigate L'Aube (Captain Lavaud), to the Antipodes for the protection as well of the emigrants on arrival as of the new French possessions in the South Island afterwards England had gone to work in a different way. The New Zealand Company, of 1825, which sent out emigrants to Hokianga in the Rosanna, under aptain Herd, had been a failure—as much as anything from want of the 'charter' promised to it, but never granted. The 'Association' of 1837 was practically stillborn; but the persevered, and the Land Company of 1839 was formed under much the same directorate, Edward Gibbon Waksfield being the moving spirit from its foundation for the next seven years. Finding the Government of the day directly opposed to any colonisation scheme not initiated by themselves, the Troy was despatched by the Company in May, 1839, to take over the lands at Hokianga and any acquired elsewhere since 1825, and to prepare the way by further purchases from the Natives for the advent into New Zealand—early in the year 1840—of four or five shiploads of emigrants to the number of about fifteen hundred. This determined action of Wakefield forced the hand of the Home Government. In June an order was gazetted for the extension of the boundaries of New South Wales, so as to include any territory which is or may be acquired in sovereignly by her Majesty in New Zealand, and in July, Captain Hobson was appointed Lieut. Governor over these same not yet acquired Maori lands. It was a unique as well as difficult position that he left England in August to take up, viz, first, to persuade Native chiefs to cede their rights of sovereignty to England's Queen; and second, 'to exercise in a lawful manner those functions of government' which the New Zealand Land Company would otherwise find it necessary to ursurp. Arriving at the Bay of Islands in H.M.S. Herald on January 29th, 1840—from Sydney, where he received his credentials from Governor General Sir G. Gipps—Captain pro- moters promoters Hobson lost no time in calling a meeting of the Native chiefs at Waitangi for February 5th, at which the treaty proposals for the ceding to her Majesty of all their individual rights of sovereignty were to be discussed. How Governor Hobson succeeded in overcoming the reluctance of many chiefs to sign the 'Treaty,' and the steps he took for obtaining signatures in all parts of the islands, hardly concerns us. Sufficient to say, that although signatures were still being obtained up to the latter part of June, British sovereignty was proclaimed by him on May 31st, over the North Island 'by virtue of the treaty' and over the two southern islands' by virtue of the right of discovery.' Now, Major Bunbury's report concerning his doings in thesouth islands could hardly have reached the Lieutenant-Governor in the Bay of Islands before July 1st; while the French frigate L'Aube arrived there on July 11th. Captain Lavaud was friendliness personified, and loquacious, in his desire for information about recent happenings. Conversation with him must have raised doubts in Captain Hobson's mind. The North Island was unquestionably safe under British sovereignity, and that part of the Middle Island to the north of the Kaikouras, by virtue of signature to the Treaty of Waitangi by the individual owning chiefs, and the proclamation ceremony at Cloudy Bay; but was the rest of that island equally secured by the one proclamation at Stewart's Island and 'right of discovery' alone? And would this claim of established British sovereignty hold good against French occupation' by a previous purchaser (L'Anglois), or against the title deeds of the other foreigner (Hempleman), already residing on the spot? To gain actual possession of the lands before the arrival of intending settlers, and to make another formal 'proclamation' there of sovereign right over the entire island 'by virtue of' that possession, were obviously the wisest, if not the only, steps to take. So Hobson sent Stanley down to Akaroa in urgent haste in the faint but fervent hope that he might get there before the French. In that case all would be well But the L'Aube was a faster ship than the Britomart, so the L'Aube must be delayed; and any suspicion, aroused by the sailing of the Britomart, set at rest by the yarn about 'just a couple of magistrates being taken round to Port Nicholson.' 'Captain Lavaud may, however, anticipate you in Akaroa,' Hobson goes on, and in that case Stanley is instructed to 'protest in the most decided manner, and impress upon him that such interference must be considered as an act of decided hostile invasion,' 'he was to produce Major Bunbury's declaration,' and 'my proclamation of the 31st May, etc, etc.' But I will not quote further from these 'instructions' from Hobson to Stanley, which are open for anyone to read, It is the letter of a wise administrator, but of a very anxious man, who need not have felt anxious, had he been able to see the masterly manner in which Captain Stanley would carry through the important commission entrusted to him, and by the (justly commemorated) smartness of his action, secure sovereignty over the 'Middle' Island of New Zealand for the British Crown.—Yours, etc,. F. A. AnsonLondon, 21st August, 1913."
Regarding this same matter of hoisting the flag, the letter of secret instructions from Governor Hobson, quoted by Mr Anson, has been given in full on page 101 as an addition to the article in the first edition, entitled "French Settlement of Akaroa." This letter was unearthed by Mr. Guy Schofieid, to whose researches we are also indebted for the report of Captain Stanley to Governor Hobson, written at sea on September 17, 1840 If anyone had a lingering doubt as to whether Captain Stanley was sent to forestall the French, that doubt must be dissipated by the report.
Another important chain in the link of evidence regarding the ceremony of taking possession at Akaroa has been discovered in the report sent by Captain Stanley to Governor Hobson. This report settles the matter finally, as it shows how careful Stanley was to hoist the flag and then hold the court to make the annexation of the Southern Island an unquestionable fact. He took care also to proclaim the sovereignty at every inhabited port, and his dealings with Captain Lavaud show how closely he watched the French, and how clearly he gave them to understand that they were on British land. The following is the report, which like most official communications, is brief and lacking in all details:—
"Sir,—I have the honour to inform your Excellency that I proceeded in her Majesty's sloop under my command to the port of Akaroa, in Banks Peninsula, where I arrived on August 10th, after a very stormy passage, during which the stern boat was washed away and one of the
quarter boats stove. The French frigate L'Aube had not arrived when I anchored, nor had any French emigrants been landed. August 11th I landed, accompanied by Messrs Murphy and Robinson, police magistrates, and visited the only two parts of the bay where there were houses; at both places the flag was hoisted, and a court, of which notice had been given the day before, held by the Magistrates Having received information that there were three whaling stations on the southern side of the Peninsula, the exposed positions of which afforded no anchorage for the Britomart, I sent Messrs Murphy and Robinson to visit them in a whaleboat. At each station the flag was hoisted and a court held. On August 15th the French frigate L'Aube arrived, having been four days off the point. On August 16th, the French whaler Comte de Paris, having on board 57 emigrants, arrived. With the exception of M. Belligni, from the Jardin des Plantes, who is sent to look after the emigrants, and who is a good botanist and mineralogist, the emigrants are all of the lower order, and include carpenters, gardeners, stone-masons, labourers, a baker, a miner, in all twenty men, eleven women and the rest children. Captain Lavaud, on arrival of the French emigrants, assured me on his word of honour that he would observe neutrality between English residents and the emigrants, and should any difference arise he would settle matters impartially. Captain Lavaud also informed me that, as the Comte de Paris has to proceed to sea whaling, he would cause the emigrants to be landed on some unoccupied part of the bay, where he pledged himself that they would do nothing which would be considered hostile to the Government, and that until fresh instructions were received from our respective Governments the emigrants would merely build themselves bouses or shelter and clear away what little land they might require for gardens. Upon visiting the Comte de Paris I found she had on board, besides agricultural tools for the settlers, six long 24 pounders mounted on field-carriages. I immediately called on Captain Lavaud to protest against the guns being landed. Captain Lavaud assured me that he had been much surprised at finding guns had been sent out in the Comte de Paris, but that he had already given the most positive orders that they must not be landed. On the 19th August, the French emigrant, having landed in a sheltered, well chosen part of the bay where they could not interfere with anyone, I handed over to Messrs Murphy and Robinson the instructions entrusted to me by Your Excellency to meet such a contingency. Mr. Robinson, finding that he could engage three or four Englishmen as constables, and having been enabled through the kindness of Captain Lavaud to purchase a boat from the French whaler, decided upon remaining. Captain Lavaud expressed much satisfaction when I informed him Mr. Robinson was to remain, and immediately offered him the use of his cabin and table so long as the L'Aube remained in Akaroa Mr Robinson accepted Captain Lavaud's offer until he could establish himself on shore, On the 29th August I sailed from Akaroa for Pigeon Bay, where, finding no inhabitants, I merely remained long enough to survey the harbour, which, though narrow and exposed to the westward, is well sheltered from every other wind, and is much frequented by whalers, who procure a great number of pigeons. From Pigeon Bay I went to Port Cooper (Lyttelton), where Mr. Murphy held a court. Several chiefs were present and seemed to understand and appreciate Mr. Murphy's proceedings in one or two cases that came before him. Between Port Cooper and Cloudy Bay I could hear of no anchorage whatever from the whalers who frequent the coast. I arrived at Port Nicholson (Wellington) on 2nd September, embarked Messrs Shortland and Smart, and sailed for the Bay of Islands on the 16th September. I have the honour to enclose herewith such information as 1 was enabled to procure during my stay at Banks Peninsula, and also plans of the harbours.—I have the honour to be, , R.N." William Stanley
Much romance centres round the name of "Bully" Hayes, one of the most thorough paced scoundrels in the rough days from 1850 to 1860 He was an American by birth, standing six feet, and having an erect carriage. He was a fine looking man, and was always well dressed, wearing check clothes, and in speech and manner had the bearing of a gentleman. Mr. James Hay, of Pigeon Bay, saw him in Lyttelton somewhere about 1860. "Bully" Hayes owned a trading vessel and plied to the diggings at Dunedin and the West Coast. He sold powder to the Maoris north of Taranaki, and showed great skill in evading discovery. One of his lawless acts was to abduct a barmaid from the Mitre Hotel at Lyttelton. The girl was never seen again. Another exploit of his was long remembered on Banks Peninsula. Being out of beef, he sailed round to Little Akaloa, and, landing, bargained with Toby Green, an early settler, whose name is mentioned in several places in this book, and persuaded Toby to sell him some bullocks. In those days bullocks were of great value, but as "Bully" Hayes produced an order on Mr. Hargreaves in Lyttelton, Toby Green had no suspicions. The bullocks were only just taken aboard, when the brig Planet appeared on the scene to arrest "Bully" Hayes for debt, but that astute gentleman had everything ready and got right away from his pursuers. He was last seen waving his hat in derision, Toby Green was a heavy loser by the transaction. Hayes' brutality to his men earned him the sobriquet "Bully," He was a first class pugilist, and, having abnormal long arms, his reach was surprising. His exploits in Australia and the Islands have made him the subject of a book by Rolf Boldrewood. The story of his end is another case of "hoist by his own petard" He stole a yacht from San Francisco, and took as his mate a great big fellow. They sailed for the South Sea Islands; but Hayes found his match in the mate. After a violent quarrel "Bully" went down to the cabin. The mate knew he had gone for his pistol, and he waited above the
Farm life on the Peninsula is intimately connected with the cocksfoot, or orchard grass, and a history of the introduction of the seed will come in well here. There is no doubt that Mr. E. Hay, senr, of Pigeon Bay, introduced the seed in 1853, buying it from Mr. W. Wilson, seed merchant, of Christchurch. Mr. Farr's statement that the whalers, or early settiers introduced it into French Farm previously is not upheld, and it is allowed the first crops were grown in Pigeon Bay and Port Levy in the year 1853. We give below a report of the cocksfoot industry given by Mr James Hay, son of Mr Ebenezer Hay, who himself worked at the cocksfoot harvest as early as 1855. The early settlers prized the cocksfoot very much and many of them would pay big prices for a small bag of seed gathered from crops round other settlers homes. Mr. George Armstrong remembers his father having a small plot of cocksfoot about the Mt. Vernon homestead, and seeing some of the farmers round about bringing up small bags to carry away the seed. They rubbed the seed out with their hands, and were quite prepared to pay a big price for a small amount. There is no doubt that the Peninsula soil is especially suited for the production of good cocksfoot seed, and that the grass does exceedingly well here. The following is Mr. Hay's account of cocksfoot in Pigeon Bay —an account that applies equally well to the other bays of the Peninsula: —
"In 1849 or 1850 my father let a contrast to Jim Robinson and Joseph Rix to clear and stump a piece of bush land of about three acres close to the old Annandale home stead. The price for this work was at the rate of £40 per acre. It was trenched about one foot deep to get all the roots out below the plough depth. There was no heavy timber, it being nearly all moko. It was so expensive that my father did not get any more done. After the contract was finished, part was planted with potatoes, part in pumpkins, and the balance in wheat. These crops were enormous, especially the pumpkins. The wheat was cut
with the old reaphook, and threshed with the flail. In the autumn of 1852 this land was ploughed, this being the second piece of land ploughed in Pigeon Bay. It was all sown in wheat, and after it was harrowed two ridges were sown in cocksfoot and the balance in ryegrass. Then it got one stroke of the harrows to cover it. The cocksfoot to sow these two ridges was bought from Mr William Wilson, seed merchant and gardener, of Christchurch, in the autumn of 1852. Mr R. Fleming got some at the same time. Mr Wilson sold it to my father as orchard grass at 2s 6d per lh. He said it was the very grass for the rough bills of the Peninsula, which has been well proved. The wheat was reaped on this land in January, 1853 In a few weeks all the stubble was hidden with the cocksfoot and ryegrass. It made wonderful progress, and although Mr Wilson had imported this cocksfoot from England it all seemed to grow. This thoroughly established the cocksfoot in Pigeon Bay. In December, 1854, and January, 1855, these patches of cocksfoot were reaped with the hook, and it was like a crop of wheat. It was all tied in sheaves and stacked in small stacks in the old Scotch fashion. In 1854 my father imported a two horse power threshing mill from Scotland. In the winter of 1855 this mill was all ready for work. It threshed the wheat, oats, barley and ryegrass splendidly, but when the cocksfoot was tried it did not take out more than half of the seed. My father put the most of it through twice, but the result was not a success, and we were compelled to go back to the flail. I assisted in the cutting of cocksfoot and ryegrass. It was my first attempt at using the hook, and if my fingers could speak they would remember too. It was all tied in sheaves. There was enough cocksfoot got out of this lot to mix with other grasses to sow over thirty acres. At this stage—that is 1855—the most of the settlers in Pigeon Bay commenced to get a few heads, and many of them saved it in their gardens, and that is how it spread. In the early sixties we commenced to sell in very small lots, and in 1865 and 1866 large orders were coming in Up till this time it was all tied in sheaves and stacked in the same way as grain; but in 1867 and 1868 we let a piece to the late Mr. Edward Goodwin and his two eldest sons, of Pigeon Bay. The seed was very ripe, and they cut it short and laid it on the stubble. It was fine weather, and it threshed out so well that the next season this method became universal, and this is how the present system of harvesting the cocksfoot was established and is continued all over the Peninsula and other parts of Canterbury to-day, where it is reaped with the hook. After this mode of harvesting was established; we went into cocksfoot growing properly. A man could nearly cut the double, and it was after this that the men made such good wages. We let a piece to four Russian Fins at 2½d per lb. It was the last piece we had, and it was a hard job to get them to take it. The seed was short, and we had just taken the cattle out a few days before it was ready to cut. These four men were just one month, and their cheques came to £56 each man clear of food for the month, and they each made good cheques helping others. We were cutting cocksfoot six or eight years before the other settlers in Pigeon Bay commenced to cut for sale. Cocksfoot seed is a very hardy seed, but it takes longer to grow than ryegrass. We had some Maoris cutting for us one year, and they cut 600 sacks We had it all stacked on a small wharf in one of the small bays waiting shipment It came on a gale of wind, and three sacks were blown off into the sea. They remained three days and three nights on the beach, soaked by every tide, We would have left them there, but the Maoris did not understand general average, so we had to take all the three sacks home and dry it so as to weigh with the other. We dried it on sheets, some blew away. Rain came on, and in a short time the seed began to sprout. We tried it in damp flannel; it all sprouted. We kept the three sacks, sowed it on a piece of new ground, and it grew as well as seed that had never been near salt water. If not not all the bays on the north side of the Peninsula, the most of them got the seed from Pigeon Bay. Mr. Alexander McIntosh and Mr. James Boleyn got seed from from Pigeon Bay. In the early days of cocksfoot we found that anything over 4d per lb. was a very profitable crop In the early stages when men were good and did not mind working over eight hours they made from 10s, 15s, 20s to 25s per day We always found the Russian Fins splendid men with the hook, as that time in Finland all grains were cut with the hook . In the eighties we sent two tons to Glasgow, but it was not a profitable "spec," and we did not send any more, always sold in New Zealand. We used to allow the settlers to cut it wherever they liked among the cattle for their own use in the middle of the fifties. My father used to let anyone take it away in their pockets who liked it as a new grass. I remember the Frenchman Mr. Armstrong speaks about. I bought his seed one year at 6d per lb. to make up an order. It was delivered at Duvauchelle's Bay, and I had to take it over to Pigeon Bay in a bullock waggon. This was the first time a waggon was taken to Duvauchelle and back to Pigeon Bay. The crop was a very good one and extra clean. Ten acres was the size of the block. Port Levy in the fifties was not so well adapted for the spread of cocksfoot as Pigeon Bay, owing to so much fern, and the bush had not been felled for many years after, so it was a long time before the cocksfoot got a good hold in Port Levy. Now it produces a very large quantity. I have heard that Messrs Rhodes, of Purau, were the first to introduce cocksfoot on to the Peninsula, but I never had any dates given me. Most likely they could get it from Mr. Wilson at the same time as my father and Mr. Fleming, Mr. Wilson was a keen business man, and pushed the seed in a businesslike manner. He was the first peraons to introduce cocksfoot into Canterbury that I am aware of As I cannot give the dates when cocksfoot was introduced into other districts of the Peninsula, I will leave it for someone else to deal with—that is beyond the places I have mentioned. Mr. S. C. Farr told me that when he landed in Akaroa in 1850 cocksfoot was growing in Akaroa at that time and in orchards and on the road sides and in French Farm. As to this I can give anopinion, but will not contradict. All I can say is that I never noticed it, either in Akaroa or French Farm. If it was there the people did not seem to know anything about its value, nor did they cultivate is for farther use. I will no attempt to contradict Mr. C. S. Farr's statement in any way. No doubt some of the old settlers in Akaroa would be able to throw more light on the Akaroa cocksfoot than I am able to do, and I would be very pleased if they would do so and could state how and where it came from. It would be most interesting to know if the French brought it, or the old whalers or some of the old settlers who came to Akaroa from Wellington in the forties. In 1874 we grew the largest crop we ever cut. We only shut up two paddocks. The rest we cut amongst the stock, shifting them while the seed was being harvested. We cut over seven thousand bushels, allowing 20lb. to the bushel. We had no rain, and got all the seed in bright. After it was harvested we could not sell a bushel, not even at 4d per lb. It was a very bad, dry autumn, and no sale, but it came an early spring and we were the only people that had cocksfoot in bulk in October. We commenced to sell at 6d per lb., and we quitted the last at 10d per lb. I think it averaged about 8d per lb., and it was all away before we were ready for shearing. Another year after this we could have sold up to eight thousand bushels if we could have harvested it. It was the year that Mr. Thomas McIntosh leased Miss Marshall's place in Pigeon Bay. He entered into partnership with us, and he supplied 4000 bushels and we did 4000 bushels, I consider this was our best season We had no rain, and we shipped the last of this seed on the 28th February, and on the 9th March we had all the money. It was weighed to the men and shipped. The following season we sold 4000 bushels. It was a fine season, no rain. It was weighed to the men and shipped. We got 6d. a lb, for these two season's seed. After that year seed came down to 4d. per lb, and we only grew for our best customers. Whenever it came below 4d. we gave it up. If we had any we sold it in the paddock standing as per agreement. We found that when it came below 4d. we made more from cattle and sheep. We cut one paddock for thirteen years in succession. It got burned and we spelled it for a year, then cut it for for six years more, making nineteen years in all. We never noticed any difference in the last years' crops. They seemed as good as the first. I think that perhaps a few general remarks will not be out of place at this stage. There has been, and I suppose is still going on, a bad system on the Peninsula by which thousands of pounds sterling are lost every year through the farmers letting their seed on halves. Men take it who have no means of storing it; they have no money to pay their men, and when it is ready for the market they are forced to take the first offer, which is from a ½d to ld. per lb below the real market price. They are forced to take it, and this establishes the price for the opening of the season. The merchant always waits for the man on halves to come forward. I blame the farmers themselves, for they generally have storage, and by insuring the seed they can always orrow against the seed from the Farmers' Co operative Association or the merchants. Some people cannot understand why the seed is light some years compared to others The principal reason is this: When the seed is in flower and we get a few calm day, until the flower has done its duty and the season is at all favourable, the seed will be heavy; but if you get heavy rain, hail, or wind before the flower has done its duty, under all circumstances the seed will be light, I have seen some old time crops on the Peninsula this season, and it has been a very fine season for harvesting all the crop if there has been enough labour. There is not the slightest doubt that the cocksfoot has added very much to the prosperity of all the Peninsula for many years. For a good many years our labour bill has run from £500 to £1500 per year in connection with cocksfoot. The greatest trouble now in growing cocksfoot is the amount of unskilled labour who want the same as an experienced man. It takes a new chum hand about one season to lerrn all about the cutting and threshing of cock-foot."
The prosperity of Banks Peninsula is intim ately connected with cheeee making, and an account of the progress of this industry would be of interest to many. Mr James Hay, whose memory goes as far back as the early forties, kindly supplied an account of the early dairying days in Pigeon Bay, and Mr J. D. Bruce, who was born and brought up near Akaroa, has given a most interesting history of the cheese making methods on the other side of the Peninsula. These two reports embrace the whole of the district, and give an excellent idea of the early dairying on Banks Peninsula. The following is Mr Jas. Hay's account:—
"In 1844 my mother made a few cheese in Pigeon Bay for family use only. The great trouble at first in cheece-making was to get the appliances. There was a cooper named Philip Ryan, who had a whaling station at Oashore, and he sold out to Paddy Woods, and then commenced bis trade. My father got him to make all sorts of dairy implements He did not know what a chesset was, but my father had bought one from Scotland, and it was from this one that Ryan made the first chessets for all the old settlers. He made everything from kowhai split in the rough and steamed and he considered that it was equal to the best English oak for dairy utensils He made dairy utensils for the Hays, McIntoshs, Gebbies, Mansons and many other, and had it not been for this man, dairying would have been delayed some years He was a first class tradesman, and died at Little River some years ago at the good old age of 98 In 1845 cheese was made in Pigeon Bay for sale. In 1846 Captain Sinclair, of Pigeon Bay, set sail in a small cutter laden with dairy produce for Wellington. Unfortunately, Captain Sinclair, his eldest son, and two other young men were all lost. This was the first shipment of cheese sent from Canterbury. Not only was the loss of so many good lives great and sad, but in addition, the families were left almost destitute, as the whole year's produce was lost, and there was no insurance
in those days. In 1850, when the Melbourne diggings were in full swing, Mr. Peacock, senr., purchased cheese from Messrs McIntosh, Gebbie, Manson and Hay. Generally the price was 1s per lb., and sometimes 1s 6d. Mr. Peacock used to get 2s 6d per lb, in Melbourne. It was from these four dairies that Port Cooper cheese got such a good name in Melbourne. The greatest trouble in the forties was the pressing of the cheese. To do this two posts were put into the ground between five and six feet with a bar morticed right across, filled up, and well rammed. Then another piece morticed about three feet above the ground. The chessets were put under this, then a long lever with weights put under the cross beam and on top of the chessets, thus giving tremendous pressure. Sometimes a slump of a tree was used, a hole made in the stump, and long lever used. In 1854 my father imported a lot of iron cheese presses from Scotland. I think these were the first used in Pigeon Bay and the Peninsula in general Butter was made in the spring of 1843 and 1844. This was taken to Akaroa and sold to Mr. James Bruce, of Bruce's Hotel. The man who has done most to further the cheese industry in the South Island was the late Mr. Thomas Bryden, the manager of the New Zealand and Australian Land Company. He erected factories at Edendale, one of the Company's largest stations in Southland, and they were carried on for many years under his management. He died in London in 1904. The names of some of the principal and earliest cheese makers were Messrs Hay, Gebbie, Manson, McIntosh, McQueen, Price, Birdling, Rhodes Bros, Lucas, Wright and Boleyn."
Mr J. D. Bruce's contribution is as follows:—
"The dairying industry was commenced here in very early times. In the sixties Akaroa cheese was well and favourably known throughout New Zealand and further afield than that. At that time it was a very profitable business, cheese selling at from 5d to 6d per lb, and in 1862 realising in one instance at least 1s 3d wholesale. So great was the demand that cheese were sent away direct from the press. The gold field rushes created this
abnormal demand. As a consequence, as fast as the bush was cleared and a few acres grassed down, dairies were started, small at first; but increasing in size as the land came into profit. Whilst the majority of the holdings were small, there were some that held large herds from 50 to 100 cows, notably, Rhodes, of Flea Bay, Narbey, Long Bay, Lelievre, Akaroa, Haylock, Piper, of Duvauchelle, Wrights and Parkinsons, of Kaituna, Malmanche and others. One can easily imagine the difficulties the early dairymen had to face. The implements were of the most primitive description, and it was really cheese making under difficulties. The wonder is that such an admittedly good article was turned out. What is now known as the cheese vat was a large tub with holes bored in the side —one near the bottom with others higher up—used for running the whey off. There were no taps, but the tubs were fitted with wooden plugs. Many of these tubs were made square, boxes in fact made by the dairyman themselves where the ordinary tub was not procurable. The moulds, or chessets as they were called, were made mostly of oak, old barrel staves, perforated freely, and with a following lid for pressing the curd. They were not always made very true. When this was the case they were the cause of much strong language, as if the mould happened to be larger at the bottom than at the top it was a work of some difficulty at knock the cheese out. At first there were few, if any, curd mills. The first implement used for cutting the curd was shaped something like a trident with three short steel blades on the end of the prongs, the curd being minced to the desired size by chopping in the bottom of the tub or other receptacle. The presses were built by sinking two posts in the ground with a cross bar morticed in about 2ft 6ins from the ground. Below this, and a little in front, was a strong shelf on which the chesset stood. A long lever was inserted under the top bar, and the cheese in the mould placed on the shelf, becoming the fulcrum on which the lever acted. Stones were then placed on the end of the lever until the desired pressure was obtained. Very often a stump was made use of, the heels of the levers being let in to it and the chessets accommodated amongst the roots. The heating wag done in pots or socalled coppers, usually made of galvanised iron, and set in clay, stones and occasional bricks. The dairy requisites such as rennet, coluring, etc, were also hard to procure and not always of goood quality. The rennet was usually supplied dry, that is the calves' stomachs were salted, dried and pressed flat, and sold by the dozen usually, although they were sometimes sold in jars undried The rennets from any calves killed were saved by the dairy people and used also. The extract was obtained by placing two or three rennets in a jar and adding salt and water. The strength of this mixture varied considerably. In some cases where the makers were not too particular rennet after rennet was added until the jar was filled with a very unsavoury mixture, the extract being used from the jar as required. The first colouring or annatto that I remember seeing used was supplied in cakes something like Windsor soap. This was rubbed on a piece of slate in a small quantity of milk until the maker judged it would be sufficient to colour tbe whole It was stirred into each day's make, and, as can be imagined, the cheese was not of a uniform colour. Thermometers were rare, the temperature being judged by the finger being dipped in the mik . The heating was done in large cans lifted in and out of the coppers by small home made cranes. The system of making was what was known as the Dunlop. The evening's milk was heated and mixed with the morning's, and then the rennet and colouring were added and it was left to coagulate. When sufficiently set it was either cut or broken by hand, and the whey, as it exuded from the curd, partly slipped and partly run off through the holes in the tub previously described. When the whey had been removed in this way the curd was cut up into cubes and placed in a dripper—usually a square box opened at the top and perforated, having a lid working down inside. Light pressure was applied, the cutting being repeated several times until the curd was considered dry enough to put ia the chessets. Then it was finallyminced up, salted, cheese cloth was spread over the mould in which the curd was placed and pressed in. The curd was then placed in the press. The cheese were knocked out of the moulds, and a fresh dry cloth applied twice a day for two or three days. When considered ready they were taken out, smeared all over with either butter or lard and placed on the shelves and turned daily As time went on slight alterations in the methods of manufacture were introduced somewhat in the direction of the Cheddar system. The whey, or some of it, was taken off, heated and stirred into the mass, raising the temperature sufficiently to partly cook the curd. This cooking was largely a matter of guess work until the thermometer came into general use, and even then was very unevenly done, the dripper being still used and the curd being almost invariably cut sweet. Later still acid development was tried by some cheese makers, but the only acid test known then was by Litmus paper, which was not used much. About this time there were some new arrivals from the Old Country, who used the newer methods with success, but the half and half methods of the majority had a prejudicial effect on tbe bulk of the output. The cheese was not Dunlop, neither was it Cheddar, and shipments of cheese in the early eighties were of the most mixed description, all sizes , shapes and quantities. Under these conditions it is not surprising that the starting of factories in Otago and elsewhere with the production of a scientifically made artiele told heavily against the Peninsula product, so much so that the writer has known in the early eighties average Peninsula cheese sold at 2½d per lb:, and largely a case of barter at that, the producer being required to "take it out"—that is take stores in exchange. The Home market was tried, small shipments being sent Home as general cargo. Some of these arrived in good condition, whilst others did not. Then a rather ambitious attempt was made. A number of farmers arranged a special shipment, each sending in a quota towards it, and arrange were made to put up a cool chamber in the sailing ship "Orari." This was to be kept cool in some way bychemicals The experiment proved a failure and the farmers not only lost their cheese, but had to pay some thing for expenses as well. Towards the end of the eighties a Farmers' Association was formed on the Peninsula, which did excellent work for the cheese makers. Dairy supplies of a superior quality were procured, and in formation as to markets and prices distributed amongst all sellers of cheese. The Association also applied to the Government Dairying Department for assistance. Mr John Sawers, one of the Government instructors, was sent down to the Peninsula, where he gave exhibitions in the new system of cheese making at various selected dairies The value of these lessons cannot be exaggerated. At first some of the old fashioned dairymen argued that the old methods were good enough; but these doubters were soon convinced when they saw the excellent article turned out by the Waireka factory, where the methods used by Mr Sawers were employed. These schools of instruction were continued for many years, the Department sending down various experts to demonstrate to the dairymen. The introduction of the new methods did not see the end of the cheese makers' difficulties. Many farmers could not carry on the new system successfully, as greater care and more skill were required. The question of building co operative factories was then mooted, and after many lectures by Mr John Sawers and others, the Alpha factory in German Bay was erected, The first meeting to consider the erection of the factory was held in July, 1891, but it was not until December 1893 that the formal opening took place, although the factory had been worked for a short time previously. The first manager of the initial Peninsula factory was Mr. James Adamson, who came from the Waireka factory. In the same year the butter factory at Le Bon's Bay was opened, and then followed the erection of cheese factories at Wainui, Barry's Bay, Okain's, and Little Akaloa. A creamery was started at Little River in connection with the Central Dairy Company in Christchurch. Only two years ago a cheese factory was started in Pigeon Bay. For a number of years the Le Bon's Bay factory has been turned into a co-operative cheese factory, as the difficulty of shipping their output prevented their making an equal profit from the working of a butter factory. There are still in this year(1914) many private dairies on the Peninsula, where cheese of an excellent quality is turned out, the private dairyman in many cases obtaining a better price for his cheese than the average obtained from the factory's output. The advantage of the factory system cannot be too much emphasised, as farmers receive their monthly dues for milk supplied and at the end of the season their share of the profits on the sale of the cheese. There is no longer any need of the old system of barter, and the factories can naturally demand better terms for the sale of their output than could a single dairyman,"
In this year (1914), a butter factory is being started in the township of Akaroa, and the Barry's Bay factory is erecting additional plant and buildings for the manufacture of whey butter. The history of the dairying industry on the Peninsula is simply an account of the gradual development of the district. From wild bush clad holdings, with a few bare spaces where cattle could graze, the land has been converted into well grassed properties where dairymen have outbuildings fitted with all modern appliances and labour-saving machinery. In looking back, one should not forget to pay a tribute to those early dairymen who had such natural difficulties to face. It was these men who laid the foundation stone of that successful institution commonly termed the dairying industry of the Peninsula.
The story of the capture of Te Mara Hara Nui by the noted chief Rauparaha is the most striking event in the Maori history of the Peninsula Canon Stack, in the first sections of this work, pages 35 43, gives a good account of the events which lead up to the capture of the great Ngai Tahu chief. Later Billy Simpson gives a version obtained from one of the Maoris who was whaling with him at the Piraki fishery in the thirties. According to Canon Stack, Te Pehi met his death at the Kaiapoi pah when on a visit with Rauparaha, and moreover the Kaiapoi Maoris killed these northerners, as they considered they were meditating an attack upon them. Rauparaha and his relative, Te Pehi, had come to Kaiapoi after killing all the inhabitants at Omihi. Even if the Kaiapoi people thought the punishment by Rauparaha for the foolish boast of the Omihi chief—that "if Rauparaha ever dared to come upon his territory, he would rip his body open with a barracouta tooth"—was only a just one, the murder of all their friends must have made them suspicious. There is no doubt that Canon Stack's story is correct in all the small details. The account given by Billy Simpson is incorrect in several matters. First of all, he calls Captain Stewart's brig the Martha, instead of the Elizabeth. Then he confuses the two expeditions of Rauparaha. Rauparaha and his warriors, when abducting Te Mai Hara Nui merely landed at Wainui, and destroyed that pah, murdering all the inhabitants they could find. There seems little doubt that the detailed account of the abduction, as given on pages 142-144, is correct, and it agrees in every essential with that given by Canon Stack, who obtained his information from one of Rauparaha's warriors, Ihara Pouhawaiki, who was actually a
"There were some 400 Maoris present in all, and about 800 of these were visitors from Kaikoura, Kaiapoi, Raupaki, Tau Mutu, Temuka, Waiho, Waitaki, Moeraki, Taieri, Clutha, and other places. Many Southland Maoris could not come because it was the mutton bird season. It appears that the reason this monument was erected was because of the vainglorious boasts on the monument of Te Rauparaha at Otaki, on which the defeat of the Kaiapoi Maoris is scornfully alluded to. As against Te Rauparaha's memorial, there is now a statue erected to the South Island Maori who killed Te Pehi, one of their greatest rangiteras. The Maoris from other places brought gifts. Kaiapoi brought a bullock and many biscuits, and other offerings were relative. The Maori Hall grounds were brilliant with the many bright colours of the ladies' dresses, and some specially beautiful flax and feather cloaks were seen, as well as many handsome greenstone ornaments. A bullock, roasted whole, and a mass of food
of all kinds, from hapuka head to duff, was partaken of by both Maoris and Europeans. The train from Christchurch brought 300 passengers, who seemed to enjoy the Maori proceedings In the evening there was a ball and the haka was danced. The Maori visitors returned to their homes after a week's stay in Akaroa."
The following is a translation of the Maori inscription on the monument, and as will be seen it tells the story of the feud and death of Te Pehi and Te Mai Hara Nui very concisely:—
"This statue is erected in memory of Tangata Hara, a native of New Zealand, of the Tuketerau clan of the Ngarahura tribe, a renowned warrior, died at Akaroa on December 13th, 1847; aged 75 years. He was in Kaiapoi Pa on the arrival of Te Rauparaha's first expedition, during their stay, probably about three months, pretending and professing peace. Haketara warned the chiefs of the pah to be on their guard as treachery contemplated an attack on the pah. Shortly after this was verified, when Te Pehi and others were slain The expedition then returned to the other island This expedition is known by the name of Te Niho Maka. Subsequently the expedition returned to Akaroa on board a vessel commanded by Captain Stewart, when Te Mai Hara Nui was captured and taken prisoner by them and murdered. Te Rauparaha afterwards returned with his third expedition, composed of several tribes and clans to attack Kaiapoi. After its fall the expedition went to attack Onawe Pah. Tahatiti, who went out of the pah to attack the enemy, was shot. Some of the Kaiapoi chiefs went into the pah to divert the attention of the defenders, while still tangi ing with their friend, the enemy following in the rear. While seizing and making prisoners, those at the upper part of the pah opened out their fire with only eight muskets, and killed several of the enemy before they were captured. Te Rauparaha himself had a narrow escape from being shot, Tara having pushed the gun aimed at him by Te Puaka on one side. Tahatiti was the only one of the defenders killed. The expedition is known by the name Te Maha
Taupoki At the end of all these expeditions, the offensive was taken by the Ngaitahu in 1832. The expedition of Ngaitahu reached Wairau and took up a position on the coast, where four canoes and a boat were seen approaching, which proved to be that of Te Rauparaha. The boat and two of the canoes landed, when Te Matata's dog revealed to them the presence of Ngaitahu, who immediately attacked and defeated the enemy. Had all the canoes landed, the enemy would have been annihilated. The enemy were afterwards again attacked and defeated at Oraumou. Tangata Hara had a command in this expedition. This expedition is known as Tauaiti. Subsequently a second expedition of Ngaitahu went to Wairau, known as by the name of Tauanui, Taogata Hara accompanied this expedition, Ngaitahu. After this, Tuhawaiki's expedition, coming from the south, landed at Piraki, where they were advised by Europeans to return home to the south, but they had already slain Koko. On their return to the south, they attacked and defeated at Tuturau the Puaho's expedition, which had reached Tuturau. Te Puaho was slain, and his followers were taken prisoners. In 1837 peace was proclaimed between Ngaitahu and Te Rauparaha, which ended all strife between them, through the introduction of Christianity and in memory of the undermentioned chiefs:—John Tikao, Hoani Titimarahua, Hoani Papita, Hono Wetero Te Rauparae, Heremaia Mautai, Wi Harahoua Purihirere, Tamati Tikao, Irai Tihau, Henare Wateus Tawha, Wiremu Naerata Ao, Rawiri Te Ito, Hepa Paura, Henare Te Paro, Tamakeke."
As all information obtainable about these early incidents is of great interest, it is not out of place here to insert a contribution to the "Akaroa Mail," of March 16, 1990. There is much interest in the extract, and it is correct, as at the time of the erection of the monument at Little River the story of the feud between the two great tribes was much diseased by both Maoris and Europeans
It will be noted that this version bears out in part the article contributed by G.J.B. on pages 135 139 as to Te Pehi's death being precipitated by his attempt to take away some valuable greenstone, though the scene of his death was Kaiapoi, not Akaroa, and he died by the hand of Tangata Hara, not Te Mai Hara Nui. The following is the extract.—
"The Maori monument, which is to be formally unveiled at Little River on the 22nd inst., is erected to the memory of a fighting chief nimed Tangata Hara, of the Ngaitahu tribe. He was born at one of the villages round the head of the bay, near Onawe, where he married two wives, and had four children—three girls and a boy, all of whom are dead except one daughter, now living at Little River. She is the widow of the well known chief Eli Tihau, who died ten years ago Tangata Hara seems to have made a name for himself at Kaiapoi, where he killed the celebrated chief Te Pehi, an uncle of Te Rauparaha, when that chief attacked the pah in 1827, This Te Pehi was a remarkable man, and to get guns to conquer his enemies with, he boarded a South Sea trader, named the 'Urania,' in Cook Strait in 1824, and told the captain he wanted to go to England to see King George. As he would not leave, and sent his canoe away, the captain gave orders for him to be thrown overboard, Seeing their intentions, he seized hold of two ringbolts, and the sailors could not dislodge him, so the captain took him on. The vessel called at Monte Video, and here the captain fell over board, but Te Pehi jumped in after him and swam with him until picked up by a boat. On reaching England he saw King George, but did not succeed in getting any guns, but was presented with a lot of agricultural implements and seeds, and sent out in a ship to Sydney. Here he exchanged his presents for guns and ammunition, and came to New Zealand in the brig Queen Charlotte, just in time to join Rauparaha in his expedition south, which consisted of 700 men, with a fleet of canoes. Kaikoura was the first place attacked, then the Omihi pah at both of which places large numbers were killed. Going down the coast the
canoes were hauled up at the mouth of the Waipara, and a friendly visit was paid to the Kaiapoi Natives, where Te Mai Hara Nui was chief. Barter was carried on for some days, when some of the survivors from Omihi arrived, and gave an account of the terrible slaughter up north. This put the Kaiapoi people on the watch, and a Native of the Bay of Islands, who was living with the Kaiapoi Maoris, named Hakatere, overheard them plotting how the pah was to be taken. The Northern Maoris were to give a big haka at their camp, to which the Kaiapois were invited; then, when the pah was deserted, at a given signal, it was to be rushed, and the guests of the haka were to be slaughtered. On hearing this, the Kaiapoi men were prepared to defend the pah which was one of the strongest in the Island, and consisted of three rows of pallisading ten feet high, with a fighting stage inside all the way round it. However, a few days before the haka was to be held, an incident occurred which precipitated matters. Several chiefs were visiting at the pah, among them Te Pehi, who had taken a very fine piece of greenstone and was dragging it away, when a chief named Moi Moi called out to him to leave it. He stopped, and asked how a low Maori like him dared to question the act of so high a chief as himself. At this moment, one of Rauparaha's chiefs, named Pokaitara, was entering the main gate, when he was killed by a stone axe by Rongotara, whose brother had been captured at Omihi. Te Pehi, seeing what happened, made a rush to get out, when the chief Tangata Hara grappled with him and killed him with a hatchet. The other Northern chiefs were then set upon, led by Te Mai Hara Nui, and eight of them were killed, including Te Pehi, Pokaitara, Rangikatutu, Ruataki, Huapiko, Aratangata, Kohi and Kohua. On hearing of the loss of his chiefs Rauparaha broke up his camp, and made for his canoes, sailing back to Kapiti, Two years passed away before he got his revenge, when in 1830 he came to Akaroa in the brig Elizabeth, and slaughtered most of the Natives of Takapuneke (Red House Bay) and took Te Mai Hara Nui prisoner, About a year after this Rauparaha again came down, and took the Kaiapoi pah by setting fire to it. He then came on to Akaroa and took the pah known as Onawe, where Tangata Hara was chief in command. He was taken prisoner along with many others, including Big William. On their way back to the north they called in at Okoruru (Gough's Bay), where Tangata Hara and some others escaped and made their way back to Akaroa. The Otago Maoris then came up the coast with a large force of fighting men in canoes and whaleboats, and picking up Tangata Hara and other fighting men, followed Rauparaha up to the Wairoa, where they had a great fight, defeating him, when he retreated to the Sounds, where another fight took place, and be again got the worst of it and he crossed the Straits, the South island Maoris returning to their homes. Tuawhaki (known as Bloody Jack) and Taiaroa took part in this war, which was known as the Tawaiti war. Another war was fought later on, known as ' Koko.' The last war was fought in Otago at Mataura, where Toby shot the chief who cams overland from the West Coast, This was the last war fought amongst the Natives, as the white people began to arrive, and the whaling and sealing industries had started. Tangata Hara died about the year 1838, and is buritd at the old Wainui pah, on Mr. C, McDonald's land."
While writing on the subject of "Maori History of the Peninsula, ' it would not be out of the way to mention the final transaction by which the New Zealand Company bought all the land from the South Island natives. The deed always known as "Kemp's Deed" was signed in 1848 The New Zealand Company paid £2000 for the land, the Maoris stipulating that certain reserves should be set aside for them and their descendants: —
"the deed was signed at Akaroa by forty chiefs. The land included the West Coast and part of Otago, Native
settlements with inhabitants in each were shown on the map at Waimakariri (10 inhabitants), Port Cooper (10), Port Levy (260), Akaroa (30), Wainui (30), Piraki (10), Ellesmere Mouth (10), Timaru (70), Waitaki (20). This number, 450. seems very small; but an estimate made by Fenton in 1859 made the number in Canterbury (including Kaiapoi), only 638 Speaking of Banks Peninsula, Kemp says the natives clearly admit to have sold the whole of Banks Peninsula to the French Company. The transactions at Akaroa form, in themselves; materials for a romantic history. The Lieutenant Governor was not at all satisfied with the manner in which Kemp had completed the transaction; and in his report to Governor Grey he deplored the fact that Kemp had departed widely from his instructions. Whilst the deed provided for reserves, no definite areas had been set aside, the deed itself was In wrong form, and legally invalid; he had erroneously recognised native rights over country lying within certain circuits; he had promised that payment should, if possible, be made half yearly instead of yearly, as stipulated. Eyre pointed out that the whole business had been completed in three days, in which time Kemp could not possibly have ascertained the wishes of the natives regarding the tracts they wished reserved, nor could he have visited all settlements interested, and of the seven marked as lying between Akaroa and Otakou, three only had representatives present. Still greater objection was taken to the fact that Kemp had arranged for the payments being made to two chiefs only—Tikao at Akaroa and Taiaroa at Otago. As the validity of the whole transaction appeared to be doubtful, the Lieutenant Governor said he intended to send another officer to define the reserves and have another deed executed, In forwarding the correspondence to Earl Grey, however, Governor Grey remarked: 'It may be sufficient for me to say that although I regret Mr Kemp should have departed from his instructions, I still do not view his proceedings in so unfavourable a light as the Lieutenant-Governor does, and I entertain no doubt that the has been fairly and properly completed, and that the arrangements since adopted by the Lieutentant Governor will satisfactorily dispose of any questions which might have resulted from any informalities in Mr Kemp's proceedings.'" trans- action transaction
Coming down to more recent times than this work treats of, there are two or three striking incidents which are worthy of record. Life on Banks Peninsula has been one of serene prosperity in the main, but like every other community Peninsula people have had their periods of storm and stress, insignificant it is true in comparison with those of other less favoured localities, but marked enough to leave an impression on the minds of older residents. One event which is worthy of note is the attempted burning of the Akaroa hotels on August 28, 1882. The incendiary was never discovered, but It was fortunate that he only succeeded in burning down Waeckerle's Hotel, though he evidently wanted to destroy all. We give an extract from the "Akaroa Mail," of August 29, 1882, which gives a general description of the fires in the Borough:—
"On Monday morning some incendiary or incendiaries committed one of the most atrocioua acts ever perpetrated, In cold blood the fiend, or these fiends, in human shape, heaped a mass of gorse, saturated with kerosene, against the walls of three hotels in the borough, and, regardless of the fact that there were women and children sleeping in the upper storeys, set them on fire, "Whoever he or they were, they were thoroughly acquainted with the place and its customs. Sunday night, or rather Monday morning, was selected—the night of all others when the fewest people are about, and the time, 2 a m, was the very hour when the constable, who retires at 1 a.m., would be off the beat, There is a considerable distance between the hotels, though all are in the main street, and yet it appears they were all set on fire within a few minutes of each other. This was, no doubt, to so distract attention that the destruction of one, at least, might be assured. The attempt
was but too successful, Mr Bayley, of Wæckerle's Hotel, suffering very heavily, though in the other cases the insurance will cover all damage. It is a queer coincidence thai in all three cases an invalid stopping in the house gave the alarm. We shudder to think what the result might have been, but for the timely discovery in each case. The police have no clue to the discovery of the criminal or criminals. Not a soul was seen in the streets by anybody, and the one who heard anything was Mr Dench, at Wæckerle's Hotel, and he unluckily, thinking Mr Bayley was stirring, took no steps to ascertain the truth. Some people hold the idea that it is the work of a fanatic, who, in his blind fury against the liquor traffic, resolved to destroy the hotels, regardless of the consequences; but no one brings an atom of proof forward An enquiry will be held, and it is to be hoped that then something will be elicited. We append all the information we have been as yet able to gather on the subject.'
The same copy of the "Mail" gives a minute account of the fire at each hotel, but, though want of space prevents these being reproduced in full, there are one or two particulars of interest. The Bruce Hotel was then in the occupation of Mr. Grange, and it was only the determined efforts of him and his son and their neighbours which saved the hotel. The roof had to be knocked off with an axe, and water poured in before the fire was quenched. A boarder noticed the smoke in the first place, and called Mr Grange. At the Criterion Hotel, which was occupied by Mr. Rich, it was the baby which saved the situation, and he e again only the determined efforts of Mr. Rich and a number of boarders quelled the fire. As stated in the a tice quoted, Mr. Dench, of Waeckerle's Hotel, unfortunately thought it was Mr. Bayley moving about, and when he smelt smoke attached no importance to the fact. When be did call Mr. Bayley it was too late, and all that could be done was to get the people out and save what furniture they could. The enquiry was held a fortnight later before the magistrate (Mr. Justin Aylmer), but no light was thrown on the matter, It is a significant fact that the
Another incident worthy of record here is the murder committed at the Lake Forsyth Arms Hotel on October 2, 1887. Mention is made of this in the article on Little River in the second edition, but, as it created such a stir at the time, the story is worth fuller record. We give here a reproduction of a "Mail" extra published on Wednesday, October 4, 1887:—
"About ten o'clock on Monday night a murder was committed at Little River on the verandah of the Lake Forsyth Arms Hotel. It appears a party of three Russian Finns, working at Mr Coop's saw mill, went to the hotel about nine o'clock, Mr McNae, the late proprietor, was bidding good bye to his friends, and there was a good deal of joviality, songs being sung and soon, The men came in and stood there while a song was being sung, and then all three went into the dining room, where they had some refreshments by themselves. Two of the men had words. The men's names are not known, but there is one much bigger than the other two, and it is said it was the bigger man who was quarrelling with one of the small ones, while the other held aloof. After a time, however, the quarrel seemed to cease, George Robinson, the half caste, having gone in to pacify them; and they went out together at ten minutes to ten by the front door on to the verandah, No
noise appears to have bean heard, but a short; time afterwards a man named Leon on going out saw a man lying on the verandah, as he thought, dead drunk, and the big Finn standing a short distance off, ready for going away Leon spoke to the Finn about leaving his mate, saying it was not the right thing to leave his mate there, drunk. The Finn replied in his own tongue, as Leon understood him to mean, to the effect that his mate was all right where he was. Leon then went in, but shortly after went out again with a man named Ray, and a lad named Hichens. Hichens lit a match to look at the supposed drunken man, and holding it to his face, noticed it was ghastly white. There was a general exclamation that he was dead, and then they noticed blood on his clothes. Looking further, they found the clothes were in places saturated with blood from dreadful stabs, one of which appeared to be right in the heart, and the other in the entrails below the navel. They then ran in and gave the alarm, and it was ascertained that the man was dead. George Robinson then at once saddled his horse and started in pursuit of the big Finn, and overtook him some 200 yards from the hotel. He went up to him with a bottle saying, "mate, have a drink," and threw the man quickly, being afraid of his knife, and bound him with a strap, and others coming up he was taken to the lock up, George Robinson meanwhile going after the other Finn, whom he found between Joblin's store and Coop's mill. This man came back quietly also, and they were both locked up. Constable Ryan was away, but they were safely locked up after tibeir being searched and their coats taken from them. Nothing was found on them but some matches and tobacco. There was a little knife, quite incapable of giving the stabs, found on the smaller man, and there was a slight wound on the right hand of the bigger man, but this might have been caused by his falling on the ground. It was at once decided to communicate with Akaroa. The Telegraph Office called Akaroa, but without avail, and then there was a difficulty in getting horses. It was getting on for 3 a.m. when young Mr Hichens got away with the news, and he reached Akaroa between 6 and 7 a.m., and at once Informed the police, who seat Constable Crockett off to the River. The body was left where it was till the arrival of the Constable."
There is little to add to the information already given. The murdered man's name was Max Johnson, and the murderer's Nils Jacobson, while the other man was Anders Nyman, At the inquest held at the Lake Forsyth Arms Hotel on October 5th, 1887, before W. B. Tosswill, Esq., Coroner, a verdict of wilful murder was brought against Jacobson. It seemed to be the general opinion that the man committed the crime when maddened by drink, and at his trial before the Christchurch Supreme Court on Saturday, January 14th, 1888, before Mr Justice Ward, he was found guilty of manslaughter alone, and was sentenced to penal servitude for life. The sentence was commuted later to a few years imprisonment. It is worthy of note that the residents of Little River made a presentation to Mr Geo. Robinson in recognition of his bravery in capturing the murderer.
An amusing incident is often told in connection with the Little River murder. Some of the residents, who were watching the other Finns with interest shortly after the murder, saw two of them steal away into the bush one night, and following, found them digging a grave, Thinking another tragedy had occurred, they sent a man post haste for the Akaroa police, who arrived on the scene in time to find the Finns carefully burying an old white horse of theirs, which had succumbed to old age.
The origin of the names of various bays and settlements is always of interest, and now that almost all the old hands have gone who helped to give the localities their names it would not be out of the way to give a list of the various places with as much information as possible about the origin of their names.
Akaroa is a corruption of Whangaroa, or Wangaloa. It was commonly called Wangaloa until 1840. After that date it became anglicized, and gradually settled down into its present form.
German Bay was so called because, when the Comte de Paris arrived with a number of French and German immigrants, nearly all the Germans chose this bay for their residence
Robinson's Bay took its name from Mr C. B. Robinson, the first English magistrate in Akaroa, who bought the first section there.
Duvauchelle's Bay was so called after the two brothers Duvauchelle, who held a couple of sections there under the Nanto Bordelaise Company, though they never lived there
Barry's Bay (Kaituna)—This bay was so called after William Barry, who was a shepherd for Messrs Greenwood Bros., of Purau, and later for the
French Farm received its name from the fact that when Commodore Lavaud in charge of the French frigate L'Aube first came to the Peninsula be made a garden there for the crew, and stationed 15 or 16 of the sailors there under a quarter master to look after the garden.
Red House Bay is the name given to the Bay beyond Green's Point in Akaroa where the monument was erected to commemorate the taking possession in 1840. The bay got its name from a red building which was there for many years, and was destroyed by fire.
Takapuneke also means Red House or Pa, and was the name given to the bay in which the chief Te Mai Hara Nui lived This bay is close to Wainui, and where the great Ngai Tahu chief waa captured and taken on board the brig Elizabeth and carried up to Kapiti, the stronghold of Ruaparaha The name was given to the pah because the roof was thatched with red flax.
Brough's and Lucas Bays were so called after the early settlers, Brough Bros, and William Lucas. The latter is best remembered by his generous endowment to St, Peter's Church, Akaroa.
Dan Rogers is the name given to the magnificent cavern and cliffs towering above the harbour near the north head of Akaroa Harbour. It is frequently said that Dan Rogers was a pirate here in the early days, and the cliff got its name from the fact that the wicked pirate jumped off there into the sea. This story is quite incorrect, and the name of the cliff should strictly speaking be called Mrs Dan Rogers. It appears that Dan Rogers was the owner of an hotel in Sydney much patronized by whalers, and he also had a wife of very uncertain temper. When her feelings became too much for her Mrs. Rogers was in the habit of striding up and down in front of the house with a certain skirt much displayed. The thirstiest whalers coming to Dan Rogers' for a drink beat a retreat at the sight of Mrs. Rogers in her fighting kirtle. When the whalers made Akaroa Harbour in their sailing craft there was one wind—the north-east—against which they could not beat up the harbour, and when the wind was prevalent
Green's Point, where the monument is erected to commemorate the hoisting of the Union Jack on August 11, 1840, receives its name from William Green, the owner of an accommodation house, which stood where Mrs Buckland's residence now is. This Green was also in charge of Mr. W. B. Rhodes's cattle, the first cattle landed here, and frequent mention is made of him in the foregoing pages of this work.
Children's Bay is so called as a translation of the French name given on the early charts, "Ruisseau des enfants." It is the small bay immediately below Mr V. V. Masefield's residence in Akaroa.
French Bay is the name given to the small bight about which the Akaroa borough is formed. It is so called from the settlement of the French in the early days.
Lushington's, the point between Akaroa and German Bay, received its name from the mode of life in the saw-milling days, Every Saturday afternoon boats would come into Akaroa with as big a load of timber as could be got from the mills round the harbour, and the spree at the hotels would last well into Sunday. The men usually carried back a supply of grog in the empty boats, but they never got past this point with it. Lushington's is the only point thereabouts where water is obtainable, and the boats used to be pulled in there, and the lushing, or drinking, was carried on till all the grog was gone, From this fact
Scenery Nook.—A visit to Akaroa is not complete unless a tourist visits Scenery Nook, a point some two miles outside the south head of the harbour. This is so called, because it looks like a stage with the wings and scenery on each side The Nook is most interesting for the colour of the red sandstone rocks, and its geological formation.
Whale Rock is the name given to a rock beyond the point called Simpson's Lookout. The story has it that a French whaler, who was watching keenly for fish, rushed out in his boat and harpooned the rock, thinking it a whale.
Robin Hood Bay also got its name from the fact that at the end of the thirties, or the early forties, a vessel of that name was wrecked there. This wild coast has been the scene of many wrecks.
Tumbledown Bay received its name from an incident in the old whaling days. Billy Simpson, of the Piraki whaling station, was sent to obtain a case of spirits from a neighbouring station. When he was carrying the case home, he had a rest at the head of this bay, and as it was a very hot day and he felt tired he decided to sample the spirits. It is presumed that he sampled the case rather extensively, because when he resumed his journey he had a bad spill, and the case of spirits rolled down the cliffs. History does not relate what the thirsty souls at Piraki said when he arrived
Murray's Mistake is so called from the captain of a craft putting in there by mistake many years ago, thinking he was going to the Oashore whale fishery and losing his craft.
Oashore (Go-ashore) is simply a corruption of the original Maori name Oahoa
Damon's Bay, on the north side of Akaroa Harbour,
Flea Bay is said by Messrs Rhodes Bros., the owners, to be a mistake for Flee Bay, and that the latter name was given to it by the original owner, also Messrs Rhodes Bros. with an idea of its remoteness.
Stoney Bay was obviously so called from the prevalence of rocks. There are two bays of this name on the Peninsula.
Long Bay is the name given to the two bays round near Piraki, and one beyond Stoney Bay East None of the bays are particularly long
Fisherman's Bay was so called on account of the fact that the bay has two channels—one to the south and one to the north. It affords shelter from any wind, and was always much patronised by fishermen in the early days.
Paua Bay received its name from the fact that so much paua shell abounds there. It is the only bay outside the harbour where paua is to be found.
Gough's was called from an old whaling hand, almost a pakeha Maori. Gough and his mate Hodge were inseparable, but poor Hodge lost the number of his mess in the Waimakariri by imbibing too freely. Poullum had a pah in Gough's. He bought an open boat from Roland Davis, named the Rory O'Moore, of about four tons. It was the capsizing of this boat, when entering Gough's. and the drowning of the whole crew that caused the Natives to leave Gough's. It is to be noted that this fatal boat is said on page. 326, dealing with Gough's Bay, to have been purchased from Howland, of Okain's Whoever the builder of the boat was, the story of the capsize and loss of all hands is correct.
Crown Island was so called because the rock which forms the island resembles a crown in shape.
Hickory is an abbreviation of the Maori name Waikerikikeri.
Le Bon's Bay—There are several stories as to the
Laverick's Bay is called after a Frenchman named Charlie Laveroux, or Anglice Charlie Partridge. He, with Howland, who afterwards settled in Okain's Bay, came by boat to the bay to go wild pig hunting. Directly after they had got ashore a bad storm came up, and they could not launch their boat for upwards of a week. There were no pigs at all in the bay, so that the two adventurers had to live on fern root. They had a dispute aa to whether the bay should be called Howland's Bay or Laveroux Bay. In the end Charlie Laveroux had the honour of having the bay named after him, as he had been captain of a brig, while Howland had never been anything but a sailor man. The word Laveroux has been corrupted to Laverick's.
Duck's Foot Bay was so named by Mr J. T. Knight, the present owner of Laverick's, from a duck with a peculiar shaped foot, which he saw when there with a party many years ago.
Okain's Bay, as mentioned on page 278, was called after
Little Akaloa is a corruption of Little Whangaloa, and is more correct than Little Akaroa.
Decanter Bay is so called after a peculiar rock at its entrance on the south side which resembles a decanter. A portion of the rock fell several years ago, and ita resem blance to a decanter is not so marked now.
McIntosh Bay is named after Sandy McIntosh, the first owner of land there. He is frequently mentioned in this work.
Pigeon Bay was so called on account of the great number of pigeons there in the early days.
Port Levy and Port Cooper (Lyttelton), were named after Messrs Cooper and Levy, of Sydney, who had whaling vessels fishing along the New Zealand coast. This same firm bought Riccarton at one time, and Mr W B. Rhodes was once a partner of the firm, which was styled Cooper, Levy, and Rhodes.
The tui, or parson-bird, one of the honey-suckers peculiar to New Zealand.
(The kowhai is a native acacia, that in spring is covered with a profusion of golden blossoms.
‡The bell-bird, or moko moko, another New Zealand honey-sucker, that always welcomes the dawn with a strangely clear and deep note, like a bell.
The konini is the giant fuchsia of New Zealand, whose numberless purple berries are the delight of birds and children.
The totara is a pine with golden or bronze-colonred foliage, of great beauty. It grows to an enormous size.
The weeping willows growing in Akaroa are all said to have sprung from a slip brought by a Frenchman from Napoleon's tomb at St. Helena. They are of enormous size.
The hills around Akaroa were the scenes of many a renowned Maori conflict.
The wild clematis, with snowy blossoms fully a foot in circumference, is of marvellous beauty.
The nikau palm grows only in the most sequestered and sheltered valleys.
The silver fern-tree's fronds are a brilliant green above, and pure silver underneath.
The titoki is the native ash. It bears masses of scarlet berries like gigantic raspberries.
The nor'-westers are hot winds in Akaroa, and wither vegetation.
The native bush consisted originally principally of gigantic pines.
The ferns in Akaroa are of marvellous variety and beauty.
Before the advent of the whalers Akaroa Harbour was the constant resort of the cow whales with their calves.
Whangaroa is the real name of Akaroa.
Waka Maori! Maori canoe.
Tohunga: Maori priest or prophet
Atua: Maori God.
Ngai Tahu: The tribe that held the Peninsula at the time of its first being visited by Europeans.
Rauparaha: The Wellington chief that conquered the Ngai Tahus.
Ngatitoas: The name of Rauparaha's tribe.
Okeruru is the Maori name of Gough's Bay.
The Ngai Tahu were the dominant tribe on the Peninsula.
The Ngatiawas were Northern Natives, who, uuder Rauparaha, drove the Ngai Tahu, first to the remote Bays, like Okeruru, and then almost annihilated them.
The Ariki was the supreme chief.
Greenstone clubs.
Amulets, supposed to give peculiar luck to the wearer.
Canoes.
Fresh water.
A kind of flax.
Salt water.
Sea monsters. Certain chiefs were supposed to have the power of calling them to their assistance.
Mighty ones—Chiefs.
Gods.
Spell.
The legends and stories of Banks Peninsula tell but a small" part of its history; the period over which they extend is a mere point of time compared with the preceding ages during which its romantic hills were first of all slowly constructed by volcanic agencies and then carved into their present form by other geological agents. Even casual observers have some idea that they are volcanic in origin, for the layman recognises that they have peculiar features which mark them off from the mountains which form the back country of the province. Their rich soil, the system of radiating valleys with their lower reaches occupied by the sea, the two noble harbours, and the wave cut cliffs, standing erect and showing excellent sections of the flows of lava and beds of fragmentary material of which they are constructed, all tell of another origin from the slaty and frost riven Southern Alps, with their barren hill sides covered in many cases from base to summit with wastes of moving shingle. This difference is clear to all, but to the geologist additional evidence appeals. A mere fragment of rock with its airfilled vesicles and glistening crystals scattered through a dull stony paste, tells of a former molten condition; the dark coloured layers of solid rock exposed on the hillsides and inclining downwards and outwards in all directions owe their arrangement to the outflow of liquid material from some central
The only exception to this general rule occurs in one small locality near the head of Lyttelton Harbour. In this part of the district we find rock which cannot be attributed to igneous action, but closely resembles that of which the great mass of the Southern Alps is formed, and we may conclude that at one time it formed a part of a great tract which stretched east from the present mountain region, and, perhaps reached as far as the Chathams. On this land, somewhere near Gebbie's Pass, arose a small volcano, which poured out a white rock, called rhyolite by geologists, now readily seen by anyone who crosses the pass, for it caps the ridges in its vicinity, extends down towards Gebbie's Valley for over a mile, and forms the extremities of the long peninsulas which stretch fingerlike into the upper waters of Lyttelton Harbour. This volcano was a small one compared with others of the same age in the province of Canterbury, for the great mass of Mount Somers, Mount Alford, and the Rockwood Hills dates from this period, and marks the commencement of the age of igneous activity in Canterbury, which passed through all its various stages, from youth, through vigorous maturity to decline and death, before the foundations of Ruapehu and Egrnont were firmly established.
Although the results of this period of activity, as far as Banks Peninsula is concerned, are small compared with other outbursts within the
The Lyttelton Volcano had an analogous origin and form.
After a long period of construction, both of these cones experienced a similar catastrophe. No doubt as their height increased, the eruptions grew fewer and fewer owing to the increasing difficulty of raising the lava to a great height within the cone, and finally they both became dormant, and
An interesting feature of these volcanoes is the series of dykes which penetrate the lava flows and ash beds like vertical walls and radiate like the spokes of a wheel from the explosion centre. In both cases they are best seen on the rocky shore platform which fringes both harbours between high and low water mark. In Akaroa the majority point to the neighbourhood of Onawe and in Lvttelton to a centre at the back of Quail Island. In both cases, however, in the immediate vicinity of the centre they depart from the regular arrangement. In some places they appear on the slopes of the hills and stand up like wails above the surrounding country. This is more apparent round Lyttelton Harbour, where they form well-marked landscape features such as Dover Castle, above Heathcote; Witches' Hill above Rapaki; and the two great wall like masses on Dyke Hill near the Kaituna Pass above Teddington. They are chiefly whitish or greenish in colour and are of trachytic
On the very end of the Onawe Peninsula there is a most interesting rock of coarse grained texture related to granite, which closely resembles the pale coloured dykes in chemical composition, and probably represents the subterranean parent mass, from which these were offshoots. No such mass has yet been located in connection with Lyttelton, and if existent at all, it is doubtless buried beneath Quail Island or under the floor of the harbour. It is the only occurrence of granitic rock in position known in Canterbury.
After the destruction of the summits of the two cones, volcanic energy appears to have located tself between Kaituna Valley and Mount Herbert. From a centre somewhere here, probably in the upper portion of Kaituna Valley, lava flows were poured, chiefly towards Lyttelton Harbour, and the summit of Mount Herbert and its westerly extension towards Castle Peak were built up by the streams of basalt which ran northwards and now form the long gentle slopes leading down to Diamond Harbour. On the flanks of Castle Peak and fronting Kaituna Valley the lava sheets lie level, and break off with fine basaltic columns round the heads of the Charteris Bay and Teddington Valleys, while to the south they form fine terraced scarps rising steeply above Kaituna Valley. The peaks of Mounts Sinclair and Fitzgerald were formerly assigned to this period, but in my opinion they represent outlying extensions of the crater
Quail Island is looked on by some as the last spot which gave forth volcanic manifestations, and it probably represents a small secondary cone built up within the Lyttelton crater ring, though its activity may be contemporaneous with the latest flows from Mount Herbert.
It should be mentioned, however, in concluding this brief sketch of the volcanic history of the Peninsula, that Sir Julius von Haast indicated two other centres of activity, viz., Little River and Pigeon Bay, both of which he regarded as having been formed in much the same way as the two great harbours. It appears to me, after a close examination of the localities, that these valleys can with more justice be attributed to stream erosion, since they show none of the general outward inclination of flows from the centres of the valleys, and no independent systems of radiating dykes. Whether this is true or not, the subsequent history of the area is largely one of dissection of the volcanic mass by water action. To this agency must be attributed the formation of the radial valleys and their submerged seaward extensions, the enlargement of the hollows primarily due to paroxysmal explosions, and the cutting of the entrances to these hollows, all of which proceeded apace when the land was higher, and water action had more power. Then ensued a settling, and the sea invaded the lower reaches of the valleys and the floors of the old craters, and at the same time cut back the cliffs which now form such a striking