Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition: During the Years 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842. Volume One.

Chapter XVI. — New South Wales

Chapter XVI.
New South Wales.

Departure from the Samoan Group—Wallis Island—Tuvai put on Shore—Hoorn Island—Matthews' Rock—Ball's Pyramid—Port Jackson entered—Arrival at Sydney—Visit to the Governor—Fort Macquarie—Fate of Mr. Williams—Description of the Town of Sydney—Its Streets—Its Resemblance to American Towns—Prevalence of Intoxication—Government—House—Drive to South Head—Public Grounds—Mr. Cunningham the Botanist—His melancholy Fate—Country around Sydney—General Description of that Colony—Illawarra—Droughts and Floods—River's of New South Wales—Its Mineral Products—Its Water—Its Climate—Its Temperature—Prevailing Winds—Its Vegetation—Monotony of its Scenery—Soil of Sydney—Horticultural Exhibition—Natives of Australia—Their Numbers—Their Physical Traits—Their Character—Their Conflicts—Their Corrobory Dances—Their Weapons—Their Mode of Climbing—Their Social System—Their Custom of "Making Young Men"—Their Marriages—Burial of their Dead—Arrival of Convict Ship—Prison Fare on Board—Evils of the System—Punishments—Departure from Sydney—Preparations for Antarctic Cruise.

On the 10th of November we weighed anchor from Apia, and made all sail to the westward; and on the 11th had lost sight of Savaii.

On the 12th we made Uea or Wallis Island, and at 3 p.m. were off its southern end. Instead of a single island, as might be expected from the name, there are nine separate islands, varying in circuit from one to ten miles, and enclosed with one extensive reef. The land is, in general, high.

While off Wallis Island, we were boarded by a canoe, in which was a native who spoke a little English. I had thus the means of communicating with, the shore, and resolved to take advantage of it by landing the prisoner Tuvai. My original intention had been to land him at Hoorn Island, which is two days' sail farther to the south; but a similar opportunity might not perhaps have presented itself there.

Having decided on this course, I committed him to the charge of the person who had boarded us, and gave particular directions that he, with his rolls of tapa, should be immediately taken and presented to the chief. The customs of the islanders promised that this would insure him good treatment, by giving him at once a protector; or at least that he would be only robbed by a single person, and not exposed to the pillage of the whole population, who would in all probability have stripped him of his property the instant he landed, if not restrained by the authority of a chief.

Tuvai seemed delighted at being released from his confinement on shipboard, and took his leave by shaking hands with the sentry. Thus, while the culprit has not been exposed to any unnecessary severity of punishment, I feel satisfied that I fully accomplished my object of convincing his countrymen that they could not hope to commit murders upon their white visitors with impunity.

Hoorn Island we made the following day. It was discovered in 1616, by Schouten and Le Maire. Its highest point is two thousand five hundred feet above the sea; on its northern side many rocks are visible, and the whole surface appears bold and precipitous, affording, as far as we could perceive, little soil for cultivation. Cocoa-palms in considerable numbers were, however, observed upon a low point, projecting from its southern side. This island is inhabited; an unsuccessful attempt to establish a mission upon it was made by the Catholics in 1840.

On the 18th we saw Matthews' Rock, whose height we ascertained to be 1186 feet. It is of a conical shape, about a mile in circumference, and principally composed of conglomerate. A dike of basalt was observed occupying about a third of the width of the island. In order to obtain specimens a boat was dispatched to endeavour to effect a landing: the undertaking proved difficult, but was accomplished by Dr. Fox and Midshipman Henry, who swam through the surf. They brought oif some specimens of porphyritic rock, and a few small crystals of selenite. Patches were seen on the northern side of the island, appearing as if covered with sulphur.

On the 26th of November we made Ball's Pyramid, which appears to be a barren rock rising abruptly from the sea.

At sunset on the 29th of November we made the light-house on the headland of Port Jackson. We had a fair wind for entering the harbour, and although the night was dark, and we had no pilot, yet as it was important to avoid any loss of time, I determined to run in. I adopted this resolution, because, although we were all unacquainted with the channel, I was assured that the charts in our possession might be depended upon, and I stood on under a press of sail, accompanied by the Peacock. At 8 p.m. we found ourselves at the entrance of the harbour. Here a light erected on a shoal called the Sow and Pigs, since the publication of the charts, caused a momentary hesitation, but it was not long before it was determined where it was placed, and with this new aid, I decided to run up and anchor off the Cove. In this I succeeded, and the Peacock, directed by signal, followed the Vincennes. At half-past 10 p.m. we quietly dropped anchor off the Cove, in the midst of the shipping, without any one having the least idea of our arrival.

When the good people of Sydney looked abroad in the morning, they were much astonished to see two men-of-war lying among their shipping, which had entered their harbour in spite of the difficulties of the channel, without being reported, and unknown to the pilots. Their streets were speedily alive with our officers and men, who were delighted at finding themselves once more in a civilised country, and one where their own language was spoken.

The Porpoise and Flying-Fish arrived the next day.

Our consul, J. W. Williams, Esq., came early on board to welcome us. He communicated the information that the Relief had arrived safely, and landed all our stores, which were ready for us, and close at hand; after which, and about ten days before our arrival, she had sailed for the United States.

Our arrival was duly announced by an officer, and through him I was informed that the governor, Sir George Gipps, would be happy to receive me at eleven o'clock. In compliance with this intimation, I had the honour of waiting upon his excellency at that hour, in company with Captain Hudson, and our consul. I made my apologies for having entered the harbour in so unceremonious a manner, and stated the reasons why I could not tender the customary salutes.

The reception I met with was truly kind: every assistance which lay in his power was cordially offered; and I was assured that I had only to make my wants known to have them supplied. The use of Fort Macquarie was immediately granted me for an observatory, a position which, being within hail of my ship, gave me great facilities for conducting my experiments, and at the same time superintending my other duties.

I may in this place acknowledge the open-hearted welcome we met with from all the government officers, military and civil, as well as from the citizens. Our reception was gratifying in the extreme, and cannot be too highly appreciated. The Australian Club was thrown open to us by its committee, and parties, balls, &c., were given in our honour; in short, all our leisure time was fully occupied in the receipt of these hospitable attentions.

The day after we anchored at Sydney, the brig Camden also arrived. By her we learned the melancholy intelligence of the death of the Rev. Mr. Williams, from whom we had parted so short a time before at the Samoan Group. He was then, as will be recollected, about setting forth to propagate the gospel among the savages of the New Hebrides, and was in full health and high spirits, in the ardent hope of success in his mission. My information in respect to this sad event was derived from his associate, Mr. Cunningham. They had placed native missionaries at Rotuma and Totoona. Mr. Williams then landed at Tanna, which they found in a high state of cultivation, and where they were hospitably received by the natives. These were Papuans, and spoke a language much like that of the Hervey Islanders. At Tanna, Samoan missionaries were also left, and they thence proceeded to Erromango. Here they found a barren country and a different race of men, black, with woolly hair, who did not comprehend a word of any of the languages known to the missionaries.

The natives, although apparently suspicious, exhibited no symptoms of actual hostility. Mr. Williams, with Mr. Harris, Mr. Cunningham, and the master of the vessel, landed, and were strolling about, amusing themselves with picking up shells. While thus engaged, they had separated from each other, and Messrs. Harris and Williams were in advance of the others. On a sudden the warshout was heard, and Mr. Harris was seen running, pursued by a crowd of natives. He was soon overtaken by them, and killed. Mr. Williams then turned, and endeavoured to reach the boat, but he had delayed too long, and although he had reached the water, he was followed into it and slain also.

Mr. Cunningham was satisfied that a single loaded musket in the hands of those left in the boat, would have been the means of saving these two valuable lives.

I had, in a conversation with Mr. Williams at Upolu, expressed my belief that the savage inhabitants of the New Hebrides would not be safely visited without the means of defence. He had in reply declared himself averse to the use of fire-arms or any other weapon in the propagation of the gospel; being of opinion that it would be more easily and effectually disseminated without them.

The missionary cause has sustained a great loss in Mr. Williams' death; for in him were united a true spirit of enterprise and fervent zeal, with great perseverance and a thorough knowledge of the native character. I still think with melancholy pleasure of the acquaintance I had the good fortune to form with him.

The town of Sydney may, for convenience of description, be considered as divided into two parts; the line that separates them coincides, nearly, with that of George-street, the Broadway of Sydney. The old town lies on the east side of this line, and occupies the eastern promontory of the Cove; it is the least reputable part, and is almost filled with grog-shops and brothels, except at its extreme eastern quarter, where there are a few genteel buildings, in agreeable situations. The streets to the south and west of George-street are well laid out, and are rapidly filling up with good houses.

The houses of Sydney are for the most part well built and commodious. On the western side of the town are many handsome buildings and extensive public grounds; towards the eastern side is a large square, called Hyde Park, upon which are situated the offices of the colonial government, the church of St. James, and the Catholic cathedral.

Sydney contains about 24,000 inhabitants, which is about one-fifth part of the whole population (120,000) of the colony; and about one-fourth of this number are convicts. In truth, the fact that it is a convict settlement may be at once inferred from the number of police officers and soldiers that are everywhere seen, and is rendered certain by the appearance of "chain-gangs." The latter reminded us, except in the colour of those who composed them, of the coffeecarrying slaves at Rio; but the want of the cheerful song, and the apparent merriment which the Brazilian slaves exhibit in the execution of their tasks, was apparent.

When viewed from the water, Sydney appears to great advantage. It lies on the south side of the harbour, and covers two narrow promontories, separated and bounded by coves. The ground rises gradually, and thus exhibits its buildings to great advantage, giving it the air of a large commercial city. It is chiefly built of a drabcoloured sand-stone, resembling that employed in the new public buildings at Washington, but of a lighter hue. Red brick is also used in building, and the suburbs contain many neat cottages and country-seats. The sand-stone is a beautiful material, but is not very durable. The view of the town is diversified by the peculiar foliage of Australian trees, among which the pines of Norfolk Island and Moreton Bay are most conspicuous. At the time of our arrival, the trees were infested with locusts (Cicada), which made a noise absolutely deafening. The sound this insect produces is the same as that made by the analogous species in the United States, but is continued here during the heat of the day, and ten times more deafening.

Handsome equipages abound, and the stage-coaches are numerous. These, with the costume and demeanour of the more respectable part of the population, struck us as being more like what is seen in our towns than in those of Europe. Everything has a new look about it, and the people manifest more of the bustle and activity of our money-making and enterprising population than are to be seen in old countries. The acquisition of wealth seems to be the only object of all exertion here, and speculation was as rife as we had left it in the United States. Cutting down hills, filling up valleys, laying out and selling lots, were actively going on. There are, in truth, many particulars in which the people of Sydney resemble those of America. This is observable, among other things, in the influence of the public press. In Australia, however, it is more licentious than any, except the lowest, of our newspapers; taking unwarrantable liberties with private character, and is far from being remarkable for discrimination.

In one particular, a most striking difference is to be observed between the scenes to be witnessed at Sydney, and in the cities of the United States. This consists in the open practice of the vice of drunkenness, which here stalks abroad at noonday. It is not rare at any time, but on holidays its prevalence surpasses anything I have ever witnessed. Even persons of the fair sex (if they may be so called) were there to be seen staggering along the most public streets, brawling in the houses, or borne off in charge of the police. However highly coloured this picture may be thought, it is fully corroborated by the police reports of the Sydney papers on Monday mornings. The police-officers themselves are among the venders of the intoxicating liquid.

The facilities for indulgence in this vice are to be seen everywhere in the form of low taverns and grog-shops, which attract attention by their gaudy signs, adapted to the taste of the different orders of customers, as the "King's Arms," the "Punch Bowl," the "Shamrock," the "Thistle," the "Ship," the "Jolly Sailors." Of these, two hundred and fifty are licensed by the government, or more than one to each hundred souls. Among them a small shop was pointed out, which from the extent of its custom yielded the enormous amount of £200 for rent to its owner annually, a sum far beyond the apparent value of the whole property. The quantity of rum which is consumed in the colony may be estimated from the facts, that the revenue derived from its importation was, in 1838, £189,450, and that the supply amounts nearly: to eight gallons annually for every individual in the colony.

It is related, that a highly respectable individual transmitted complaints against Governor Macquarie to the home government; and that, by way of answering these expostulations, the reply of the governor was, "There are but two classes of persons in New South Wales, those who have been convicted, and those who ought to be."

The old government-house, where I had the honour of seeing Sir George Gipps, is a low cottage-shaped building, which has no pretensions to beauty, and appears to have been built at different times, having been enlarged as often as additional accommodation was needed. During the summer months the governor resides at the government-house at Paramatta.

A new palace or government-house is at present building, in the public grounds which lie to the eastward of the old one, from which a road extends through them towards the South Head of Port Jackson. This road is the usual promenade and drive of the citizens of Sydney. After leaving the government domain, it enters Wooloomoloo, a region covered with the country-seats and cottages of the higher classes, which, although originally little more than a barren rock, has been brought into a high state of cultivation by its occupants. The drive in this direction may challenge comparison for beauty with any part of the world. It presents innumerable and picturesque views of the noble bay, and of the promontories that jut into it, occupied by mansions and ornamental grounds. Onreaching the South Head, a view of great beauty is also seen. The point thus named is a bold headland about two hundred and fifty-four feet in height, on which stands the light-house, a fine tower, with a brilliant revolving light.

The public grounds are in part occupied by a botanical garden, which was laid out by Mr. Cunningham, the botanist of the colony, to whose memory a monument is about to be erected in the garden, which is itself a memorial of his fine taste, and his successful cultivation of the science he professed. Mr. Cunningham perished by a melancholy death, which is still spoken of with regret. He had, in his capacity of botanist, accompanied Major Mitchell the surveyor-general—of the colony, on a tour of exploration in 1835. In the pursuit of his researches, he wandered from the party and did not return. As soon as he was missed, the native guides were sent in search of him, but returned without having succeeded in finding his traces. Major Mitchell then instituted a fresh search, in which the tracks of Mr. Cunningham's horse were found, and followed for ninety miles. Within this space three places were seen where he had stopped and encamped. From the last of these, the tracks of the horse were again followed, until the carcase of the animal was found dead through fatigue and starvation, with the whip tied to the bridle, and all his accoutrements about him. Retracing their steps to his last encampment, they ascertained, on close examination, that he had there killed his dog for food, and his footsteps were seen as if making rapid strides for the bed of a river, which he had followed to a pool, into which he had plunged. Farther down the river, some shells were founds near the remains of a fire, which had evidently been kindled by a white man. Here all farther traces of him were lost, and the search abandoned in despair.

Some months afterwards a second search was made by Lieutenant Vouch. In the course of this, some natives were taken near the Brogan River, in whose possession a part of Mr. Cunningham's clothing was found. They stated that a white man had come to them in a state of great exhaustion; that he was hungry, and they fed him, but that during the night they had become afraid, and killed him. The body was never found.

Lieutenant Vouch inferred that Mr. Cunningham had become deranged by the severity of his sufferings, and that this had caused him to wander about at night, which, with other suspicious movements, had alarmed the natives, who, under the influence of their terrors, had murdered him.

At the end of the walk around the government domain, the following inscription is calculated to excite a smile: "Be it recorded, that this road round the inside of the government domain, called Mrs. Macquarie's road, so called by the governor on account of her having originally planned it, three miles and three hundred and seventy-seven yards in length, was finally completed on the 13th day of June, 1816."

Governor Macquarie has literally put his mark on the town of Sydney, where hardly a single street, square, or public building can be passed without seeing his name cut in stone.

The aspect of the country around Sydney is sufficient to prove that New South Wales is very different, in its general features, from other parts of the globe. This is chiefly owing to two causes: the aridity of its climate, and the prevalence of sandstone rock. This rock may be readily examined at the Heads of Fort Jackson, and on the shores of the many coves that surround this beautiful harbour. Its colour is pale yellow, or drab, and it lies in beds nearly horizontal and of various thickness, whose upper surface, except where broken by ravines and water-courses, forms a tableland. The average elevation in the neighbourhood of Sydney is from three hundred and fifty to four hundred feet. At this level it extends in gentle undulations to a great distance inland.

This arid soil yields but a scanty growth of vegetable products, which, consisting of burnt pasture, and thinly scattered trees and shrubbery, give to the whole region a look of desolation. The grass does not everywhere conceal the bare rock, and the thin soil supports only a few gum-trees (Eucalypti) and bushes. Throughout the wide plain there is little to relieve the eye, except here and there a small cultivated spot.

In consequence of this aridity there are many continuous miles of waste lands in New South Wales, which by the inhabitants are called "forests." These are very different from what we understand by the term, and consist of gum-trees (Eucalypti) so widely scattered that a carriage may be driven rapidly through them without meeting any obstruction, while the foliage of these trees is so thin and apparently so dried up as scarcely to cast a shade. Thus miles may be traversed in these forests without impediment. A few marshy spots are occasionally seen, covered with thickets of brush; and in other places there are tracts so dry that even the gum-trees will not grow upon them, and which receive the direct and scorching rays of the sun.

The most remarkable part of New South Wales is the district of Illawarra, situated on the coast, about sixty miles to the south of Port Jackson. This is a narrow strip, that seems to be formed by the retreat of the sandstone cliffs from the sea, to a distance which varies from one to ten miles. The cliffs or mountains vary in height from one thousand to two thousand feet. This region is extremely fruitful; its forests are rich, with a great variety of foliage, and of creeping plants, which twine around the trees. The great size and number of the trees served to remind the gentlemen who visited it, of the vegetation of the tropical islands, luxuriant with tree-ferns, bananas, banyans, &c. This luxuriance is in part owing to a rich and light soil, consisting of decomposed basalt and argillaceous sandstone, mixed with vegetable mould, but more to the peculiarity of its climate. The high cliffs which bound it to the west, keep off the scorching winds which reach other parts of the coast from that quarter, and the moisture of the sea-breeze intercepted by them is condensed, falling in gentle showers. For this reason, it is not subject to the long and frequent droughts that occur in other parts of New South Wales.

These droughts are sometimes of such long continuance, that we at one time read of the whole country having been burnt up for want of rain, a famine threatened, and the sheep and cattle perishing in immense numbers.

These have been succeeded by long-continued rains, which have raised the rivers thirty or forty feet, flooded the whole country, deluged the towns and villages, and completely destroyed the crops. Such floods carry with them houses, barns, stacks of grain, &c., drown the cattle, and even the inhabitants are, in some cases, saved only by being taken from the tops of their houses in boats.

The year of our visit (1839) added another instance to the list of disasters of the latter kind; and the published accounts state that twenty thousand sheep were lost in the valley of the Hawkesbury by the floods. Such evils, indeed, appear to be of frequent occurrence, and the settler in New South Wales has to contend with the elements in an unusual degree.

Such disasters are equally injurious to the husbandman and the wool-grower; for the same cause that destroys the crops also carries off the stock, so that it is only the large capitalist who can successfully struggle against or overcome such adverse circumstances. It is some recompense for this state of things, that one or two favourable years will completely repay all former losses; and it is due to the perseverance and industry of the inhabitants of New South Wales to say, that they have already, in spite of the difficulties they have had to encounter, made it one of the most flourishing colonies on the globe.

In seasons of drought, the flocks and herds are driven into the interior. The year of our visit (1839) was accounted a wet one, and some parts of the sandstone district which, produced good crops of grain, * in dryer seasons would have been dry to barrenness.

In such a climate it is not surprising that there are hardly any streams that merit the name of rivers. It is necessary to guard against being misled by the inspection of maps of the country, and forming from them the idea that it is well watered. Such an impression would be erroneous, and yet the maps are not inaccurate; streams do at times exist in the places where they are laid down on the maps, but for the greater part of every year no more is to be seen than the beds or courses, in which, during the season of floods, or after long-continued rains, absolute torrents of water flow, but which will within the short space of a month again become a string of deep pools. Were it not for this peculiar provision of Nature, the country for the greater part of the year would be without water, and consequently, uninhabitable.

The principal rivers which are found to the east of the Blue Mountains are the Hunter, George, Shoalham, and Hawkesbury. None of these streams are navigable farther than the tide flows in the estuaries, which sometimes extend twenty or thirty miles inland, for beyond them they are usually no more than twenty inches in depth. Each of these streams has numerous tributaries, which drain a large area of country, and during heavy rains the main branches are suddenly swelled, and cause the floods which have been spoken of. To the west of the mountains, the water-courses are of a very different character. The Darling, for instance, through a course of seven hundred miles, does not receive a single tributary, although it is said to drain an extent of sixty thousand square miles. It possesses the other character which has been mentioned, of being frequently reduced to a mere string of pools. The Darling, Morrumbidgee, and Lachlan, unite about one hundred miles from the ocean, and their joint stream is known by the name of the Murray, which, after passing through Lake Alexandria, enters the sea at Encounter Bay. The surface drained by these streams is about two hundred and fifty thousand square miles.

Another remarkable occurrence observed in these western waters is the disappearance of a river in swampy lands, where, as is supposed, it is swallowed up by the caverns in the limestone rocks. This is the case with the Macquarie, which has its source near Bathurst.

According to all accounts, salt is very generally diffused throughout New South Wales, and even all Australia. It has been reported as being found in masses in the sandstone, but no specimens of it were obtained by the Expedition. Scarcely a well is dug in the interior which is not brackish; and, according to Major Mitchell, Captain Sturt, Oxley, and others, many of the rivers are quite saline in parts of their course. The northern tributaries of the Hunter and Darling are instances of this.

The lakes are also said to be saline, and in some instances sufficiently strong to afford a large and profitable yield of salt; but being very far in the interior, and without the means of transportation, they are of little value. Along the south coast of Australia, such lakes are described as existing near the sea, and may possibly prove of some value to that portion of New Holland.

Lead and iron have been found in small quantities; the deposits of the former are all trifling. Those of the latter afford too impure an ore, and not in sufficient abundance, to be worked.

The minerals stated to be found in Australia, specimens of which were procured for the Expedition, are chalcedony, agates, jasper, quartz, augite, and stilbite; feldspar, arragonite, gypsum, chlorite, mica in granite; sulphur and alum, galena and plumbago, magnetic iron, iron pyrites, and basalt.

Fossils appear to be confined to particular localities, but are by no means rare.

Columns of basalt of great regularity are found on the coast of Illawarra, but the articulations are all plane.

The water is much impregnated with alum and iron, and its use is avoided lay the inhabitants.

Deserts covered with saline plants are said to be frequently met with.

The climate of Australia may be considered generally as very dry; the irregularity of the rains, and the nature of the soil, all prove that it is so; yet the aridity is not marked, as in other countries, by a general tendency in the plants to produce thorns, although the peculiarity of the vegetation makes the dryness apparent in other ways. From all accounts, New South Wales is subject to as great atmospheric vicissitudes as the middle United States. For a series of years, droughts will occur, which in turn give place to years of successive floods, and these prevail to an extent that can hardly be credited, were it not that the account has been received from good authority. As a striking instance of it, Oxley, in his exploring journeys into the interior, in 1817, found the country everywhere overflowed, so as to prevent him from proceeding; while Mitchell, in 1835, in the same districts, was continually in danger of perishing from thirst. The latter states that he found Unios (or freshwater mussels) sticking in the banks of rivers and ponds above the level of the water; and also dead trees and saplings in similar situations.

This alternate change must exert a great influence on the productions of the soil; the rivers ceasing to flow, and their beds becoming as it were dry, with the exception of the pools heretofore spoken of, must likewise have an influence. The prevailing westerly winds sweep with force over the whole country, blighting all they touch. The effect of these hot winds is remarkable, for they will in a few hours entirely destroy the crops by extracting all the moisture from the grain, even after it is formed, and almost ready for harvest; and the only portion that is left is that which has been sheltered by trees, hedges, or fences. They thus destroy the prospect of the husbandman when his crops are ready for the sickle. It is thought, and I should imagine with reason, that were the Blue Mountains a more lofty range, this would not be the case, as they would have a tendency to continue the supplies to the streams throughout the year, by the condensation of the vapour from the sea.

These hot winds come from the direction of the Blue Mountains, and, what seems remarkable, are not felt on the other side of the mountains, or in their immediate vicinity. Yet the extent between the coast and the mountains is not sufficient to produce these winds, being only forty-five miles; and if they proceed from the interior, they must pass over those mountains, an elevation in some places of three thousand four hundred feet. Their great destructiveness is undoubtedly caused by their capacity for moisture, although few observations have as yet (as far as I was able to obtain information) been made upon them, except in relation to the blight they occasion. It has been found that fields which have a line of woods on the side whence they blow, escape injury. The harvest immediately on the line of the coast does not suffer so much, being exempted in part from their withering influence by the moisture that is imbibed from the sea.

There is a portion of this country that is an exception to the general rule of aridity, namely, the district of Illawarra. This forms a belt of from one to ten miles wide, and has the range of the Kangaroo Hills just behind it, of one thousand feet; these are sufficiently high at this distance from the coast to condense the moisture, and also to protect the district from the blighting effects of the blasts from the interior.

One is entirely unprepared for the alleged facts in relation to this country; for instance, Mitchell, in his journey to the south and west, during the four winter months, witnessed no precipitation of moisture except frosts in the mornings, and the thermometer was often below the freezing point. "Violent winds occur, which have obtained the name of brick-fielders. They are nothing more than a kind of gust, peculiar to the environs of Sydney, after a sultry day. During one of these gusts little or no rain falls, though the wind frequently approaches a hurricane in force. These winds get their names from bringing the dust from the brick-fields, formerly in the suburbs of Sydney, but which are now almost entirely built over. The temperature during the blow generally falls twenty or twenty-five degrees, in the space of as many minutes; the dust is very great, and the wind so strong as to cause apprehension lest the houses should be unroofed, or the chimneys thrown down. Our standard barometer was carefully watched during the coming on of two of these gusts, and found to fall 0-200 in., the first time, and the second only 0-020 in,; but the temperature fell each time about ten degrees. They were not, however, true brick-fielders, or such as a resident would so denominate.

Snow has been known to fall in Sydney, but so rarely, that we were told some of the inhabitants were doubtful as to its nature. On the mountains it is not uncommon, and in the winter season is always seen on those in the New England district, which, although three or four degrees to the northward of Sydney, enjoys a much cooler climate.

I found at Sydney a great variety of opinions existing about the climate. During our stay, the weather was unfavourable for all astronomical observations, and almost the whole time cloudy or rainy. The climate is, generally speaking, a healthy one, and not unlike that of some parts of our own country. The colony is subject to occasional epidemics, and from the best information I could procure, it is thought that the mortality is about one in forty-three; this may be called a very small proportion, when one takes into consideration the great quantity of ardent spirits that is consumed.

The general appearance of the vegetation of New South Wales presents many peculiarities. The character of its productions is totally distinct from those of the other portions of the globe. The gum trees, Norfolk pines, and those of Moreton Bay, attract attention from their scattered appearance and peculiar foliage. All these have a dark and sombre hue. A remark made by one of our gentlemen is characteristic of the former, "that they were ghosts of trees." The leaves being set edgewise causes this appearance, and in consequence they give little or no shade. This peculiar position of the leaf is more conspicuous in the Eucalypti than in other genera, for in them the leaves are all pendant, while the leaves in the other genera are usually upright, rigid, and somewhat as may be seen in the acacias and other tribes. It was observed that both surfaces of the leaves were much alike, having as it were two upper surfaces. Whether any physiological purpose has been assigned for such an arrangement I have not been informed.

Among the most singular of the productions of Australia are the wooden pears as they are called. These have a close external resemblance to the fruit whose name they bear, but are ligneous within. Another of the fruits is a cherry, whose stone is external, and would be similar to our fruit of that name were the kernel in its proper place. The pit adheres firmly to the pulp, which is of the size of a pistol-bullet, but the fruit shrinks when ripe to that of a buck-shot. The pear grows on a low shrub, the cherry on a large bush.

The want of close growth of the "forest," in New South Wales, so different from what is understood by the term elsewhere, is not the only remarkable appearance, but the absence of all decayed foliage is also extraordinary. The ground is clear of any fallen leaves, and everything betokens that perennial verdure is here the order of things. These two features combined, give the forests of Australia the air of a neatly-kept park. Annual plants (if so they can be called) abound in the forest, requiring, it is said, more than a single year to bring their seeds to maturity. There were instances, we were told, of crops of grain remaining three years in the ground. That these types, so rare in other countries, should be abundant in Australia, is not remarkable, when it is considered that they are but instances of an almost complete diversity between the natural history of this country and that of other regions.

All seem to have been struck with the apparent monotony of the scenery, foliage, and flora, although in reality the latter presents great variety. The general sentiment was, that they were fatigued by it, which is not a little surprising, as the Australian flora rivals in number of species that of Brazil. This feeling may be accounted for by the overpowering impression that is made by the gum trees, whose foliage is of a dark sombre green. There is also something in the general absence of underbrush; and the trees are so distant from one another that there is no need of roads, so that a carriage may drive anywhere.

The trees are in general tall in proportion to their diameter, with an umbrella top, and have the appearance of being thinly clad in foliage. No woody vines are to be seen, nor any parasitic plants. In many places a stunted growth of detached shrubs, called in the colony "scrub," exists, which might be termed one of their "forests" in a dwarf shape.

In the Illawarra district a totally distinct state of things exists. Here is to be found all the luxuriance of the tropics—lofty palms, among them the Corypha australis, with tree-ferns of two or more varieties, different species of Ficus, a scandent Piper, and very many vines. The forest of this district is thick, and alive with animal life.

This district is about fifty miles long, and forms a semicircular area about thirty miles in its greatest width. The peculiarity of the situation of this district would tend to show what would have been the probable state of New Holland, or rather its eastern side, if the mountains were sufficiently high to intercept the moisture of the ocean, and prevent the access to it of the dry hot winds from the interior. Illawarra may be termed the granary of New South Wales; here the crops seldom, if ever, fail, and are very abundant.

The soil of Sydney consists of black mould, mixed with a clean white sand. The quantity of sand is such, as in the dry seasons to affect the vegetation. This sand, I understood, is now exported to England at a great profit, being found a valuable article in the manufacture of plate glass. This soil, however, is made to yield a plentiful supply of fruits and vegetables; and the display exhibited at the horticultural exhibition was highly creditable, not only for the perfection to which the productions had been brought, but for their great variety. The exhibition was held in the large markethouse in George-street, which was tastefully decorated for the occasion with branches and festoons of flowers. In front of the door was an arch formed of beautiful flowers, with the motto, "Advance Australia!" surmounted by a crown, and the letters V. R. in yellow flowers. Behind this the band was stationed, which, on our entrance, struck up Yankee Doodle. Tickets were sent to the consul for those belonging to the squadron. There were a great many South American plants in pots. A premium was received for Tropæolum pentaphyllum, Maurandya Barclayana, and for two species of Calceolaria. There were likewise Amaryllis belladonna and umbellata, Bouvardia triphylla, Cobæa scandens, and several Passifloras, and a variety of hyacinths, dahlias, tuberoses, &c., all fine.

The grapes exhibited were beautiful, and some of them in very large clusters. Nectarines, peaches, apples, pears, small oranges, shaddocks, pine-apples, chestnuts, and walnuts, were also in abundance.

After viewing the fruit we examined the vegetables, which consisted of potatoes, carrots, turnips, very large pumpkins, cucumbers, cabbages of different kinds, and very fine, particularly the curled Savoy and early York, tomatoes, celery, squashes, vegetable marrow, beets, capsicums, and beans.

After the vegetables came specimens of native wines, and a silver cup was given as a premium for the best. The white wine resembled hock in taste; the red, claret. The climate is thought to be favourable to the production of the grape.

The grains grown in the colony are, wheat, rye, barley, Indian corn, and oats. The wheat yields from six to twenty-five bushels to the acre, and some low ground as high as thirty-five bushels. Its weight per bushel is sixty-two pounds. The crops of this grain are subject to great fluctuations, and the most promising appearance may in a single day be entirely destroyed.

Tobacco has been cultivated, and it is thought will succeed; but the frequent frosts render it a very uncertain crop.

Cotton has been attempted, but with little success. The value of pasturage, and its profitable yield in sheep-walks, will long be a bar to the extensive cultivation of any plants that require much labour in their production.

The orange, citron, and lemon trees present a scraggy and yellow appearance, and produce small and insipid fruit, in comparison with that of the tropics. Peaches thrive, and grow in large quantities, and of high flavour. Every farmer has his peach orchard; and the fruit is so plentiful that they fatten their pigs on them.

The natives of Australia are fast disappearing. The entire aboriginal population has been estimated as high as two hundred thousand; this estimate is founded on the supposition that the unexplored regions of the country do not differ materially from that part of it which is known, which cannot well be the case. Other estimates, and probably much nearer the truth, are given at from sixty to seventy-five thousand.

The ravages of intoxication and disease, combined with their occasional warfare, will readily account for the rapid disappearance of the native population; and but a few more years will suffice for the now scanty population to become extinct. In 1835, the surveyor- general, Mitchell, estimated that in about one-seventh of the whole colony, which he had examined, the natives did not exceed six thousand in number; they are in many parts most wretched-looking beings, and incorrigible beggars; the moment they see a stranger, he is fairly tormented to give something; a shilling or a sixpence contents many, and when laid out for rum, or bread, is shared by all present.

The introduction of European arts has caused but little improvement, while the vices which accompany them have been the bane of the native population, which has thus acquired a fondness for ardent spirits and tobacco. The natives usually lead a wandering, vagabond life, hanging about the houses of the settlers where they are well treated, and doing little jobs for a slight recompense in the above articles. Their habitations are mere temporary shelters) formed of boughs and bark piled up against the stump of a fallen tree, rather to shield them from the wind than for a regular habitation; the reason for this may be, that owing to superstitious scruples they never encamp in one spot three nights in succession. At Illawarra, their huts were made by setting two forked sticks upright, on which another was laid horizontally; on the latter, one end of pieces of bark, taken from the nearest gum tree, is laid, while the other end rests upon the ground. A fire is built on the open side, which not only warms them, but keeps off the myriads of musquitoes and other insects. As many as can enter such a hut, take shelter in it, lying upon the soft bark of the ti tree.

The natives of Australia differ from any other race of men, in features, complexion, habits, and language. Their colour and features assimilate them to the African type; their long, black, silky hair has a resemblance to the Malays; in their language they approximate more nearly to our American Indians; while there is much in their physical traits, manners, and customs, to which no analogy can be traced in any other people.

They are difficult to manage, taking offence easily when they are ill-treated; and if any one attempts to control, thwart, or restrain their wandering habits, they at once resort to the woods, and resume their primitive mode of life, subsisting upon fish, grubs, berries, and occasionally enjoying a feast of kangaroo or opossum-flesh. They eat the larvæ of all kinds of insects with great gusto. Those who reside upon the coast fish with gigs or spears, which are usually three-pronged; they have no fish-hooks of their own manufacture.

When they feel that they have been injured by a white settler, they gratify their revenge by spearing his cattle; and it is said, upon good authority, that not a few of the whites, even of the better class, will, when they can do so with impunity, retaliate in the blood of these wretched natives; and it is to be regretted that they are not very scrupulous in distinguishing the guilty from the innocent.

The natives of New South Wales are a proud high-tempered race; each man is independent of his neighbour, owning no superior, and exacting no deference; they have not in their language any word signifying a chief or superior, nor to command or serve. Bach individual is the source of Ms own comforts, and the artificer of his

own household implements and weapons; and but for the love of companionship, he might live with his family apart and isolated from, the rest, without sacrificing any advantages whatever. They have an air of haughtiness and insolence arising from this independence,
mc. gill, native of new south wales.

mc. gill, native of new south wales.

and nothing will induce them to acknowledge any human being as their superior, or to, show any marks of respect. In illustration of this, Mr. Watson, the missionary, is the only white man to whose name they prefix "Mr.," and this he thinks is chiefly owing to the habit acquired when children under his authority. All others, of whatever rank, they address by their Christian or surname. This does not proceed from ignorance on their part, as they are known to understand the distinctions of rank among the whites, and are continually witnessing the subservience and respect exacted among them. They appear to have a consciousness of independence, which causes them on all occasions to treat even the highest with equality. On being asked to work, they usually reply: "White fellow work, not black fellow;" and on entering a room they never remain standing, but immediately seat themselves.
They have not, properly speaking, any distribution into tribes. In their conflicts, those speaking the same language, and who have fought side by side, are frequently drawn up in battle array against, each other, and a short time after may be again seen acting together. Their conflicts, for they do not deserve the name of wars, are conducted after the following manner. The quarrel or misunderstanding generally arises from some trivial affair, when the aggrieved party assembles his neighbours to consult them relative to the course to be pursued. The general opinion having been declared, a messenger, is sent to announce their intention to commence hostilities to the opposite party, and to fix a day for the combat. The latter immediately assemble their friends, and make preparations for the approaching contest. The two parties on the day assigned meet, accompanied by the women and children. The first onset is made by the oldest women (hags they might be termed) vituperating the opposite side. Then a warrior advances, and several throws of spears take place. These are parried with much dexterity, for all the natives possess great art and skill in avoiding missiles with their shields. This exchange of missiles continues for some time, and not unfrequently ends without any fatal result. When one of either party is killed, a separation takes place, succeeded by another course of recrimination, after which explanations are made, the

corrobory dance.

corrobory dance.

affair terminates, and hostility is at an end; the two parties meet amicably, bury the dead, and join in the corrobory dance.

These dances are not only the usual close of their combats, but are frequent in time of peace. They appear almost necessary to stir up their blood; and under the excitement they produce, the whole nature of the people seems to be changed. To a spectator the effect of one of these exhibitions almost equals that of a tragic melo-drama.

A suitable place for the performance is selected in the neighbourhood of their huts. Here a fire is built by the women and boys, while such of the men as are to take a share in the exhibition,
new holland boy

new holland boy

usually about twenty in number, disappear to arrange their persons. When these preparations are completed, and the fire burns brightly, the performers are seen advancing in the guise of as many skeletons. This effect is produced by means of pipe-clay, with which they paint broad white lines on their arms and legs, and on the head, while others of less breadth are drawn across the body, to correspond to the ribs. The music consists in beating time on their shields, and singing, and to it the movements of the dancers conform. It must not be supposed that this exhibition is a dance in our sense of the word, nor is it like anything that we saw in the South Sea Islands. It consists of violent and odd movements of the arms, legs, and body, contortions and violent muscular actions, amounting almost to frenzy. The performers appear more like a child's pasteboard supple-jack than anything human in their movements.

This action continues for a time, and then the skeletons, for so I may term them, for they truly resemble them, suddenly seem to vanish and reappear. The disappearance is effected by merely turning round, for the figures are painted only in front, and their dusky forms are lost by mingling with the dark background. The trees illuminated by the fire, are brought out with some of the figures in bold relief, while others were indistinct and ghost-like. All concurred to give an air of wildness to the strange scene. As the dance proceeds, the excitement increases, and those who a short time before appeared only half alive, become full of animation, and finally were obliged to stop from exhaustion.

Their weapons are the spear, club, or nulla-nulla, boomereng, dundumel, and the bundi. Their spears are about ten feet long, and very slender, made of cane or wood, tapering to a point, which is barbed. They are light, and one would scarcely be inclined to believe that they could be darted with any force; nor could they without the aid of the wammera, a straight flat stick, three feet in length, terminating in a socket of bone or hide, into which the end of the spear is fixed. The wammera is grasped in the right hand by three fingers, the spear lying between the forefinger and thumb. Previous to throwing it, a tremulous or vibratory motion is given to it, which is supposed to add to the accuracy of the aim; in projecting the spear, the wammera is retained in the hand, and the use of this simple contrivance adds greatly to the projectile force given to the spear. They are well practised in the use of these weapons.

The nulla-nulla, or uta, is from thirty to thirty-six inches in length, the handle being of a size to be conveniently grasped.

The dundumel is a weapon used by the natives of the interior; it has a curved, flat handle, thirty inches in length, and terminates in a projection not unlike a hatchet; it is thrown from the hand before coming to close quarters, and usually at a very short distance.

But the most extraordinary weapon is the boomereng. This is a flat stick, three feet long and two inches wide, by three-quarters of an inch thick, curved or crooked in the centre, forming an obtuse angle. At first sight one would conclude it was a wooden sword, very rudely and clumsily made; indeed, one of the early navigators took it for such. It is an implement used both for war and in the chase. In the hands of a native it is a missile efficient for both, and is made to describe some most extraordinary curves and movements.

As a defence, they use a shield made of the thick bark of the gumtree; this they call hiclemara. It is peculiar in shape, and on the coast is three feet long by six or eight inches wide, with a handle in the centre; it is made rounding. Those in the interior are only a three-cornered piece of wood, with a hole on each side, through which the hand is thrust. The size of the latter is smaller, being only two feet long, and three or four inches broad. It would seem almost impossible that so small a shield should be sufficient to guard the body of a man; and nothing but their quickness of eye and hand could make it of any value as a protection against the spear or club.

The mode in which the natives climb trees was considered extraordinary by those who witnessed it, although they had been accustomed to the feats of the Polynesians in the ascent of the cocoa-nut trees. The Australians mount a tree four or five feet in diameter, both with rapidity and safety. As they climb they cut notches above them, with a stone or metal hatchet, large enough to admit two of their toes, which are inserted in them, and support their weight until other holes are cut.

The social system and intercourse of the Australians is regulated by custom alone. As no system of government exists, or any acknowledgment of power to enact laws, they are solely guided by old usage, and can give no account whatever of its origin. The universal reprobation of their associates, which follows a breach of ancient customs, has a strong tendency to preserve a strict observance of them. Many of these customs struck us as remarkable; those that have not been actually seen by the officers of the Expedition, have been described by persons entitled to the fullest credit.

The custom (to use the language of the settlers) "of making young men," is singular. When the boys reach the age of fourteen, or that of puberty, the elders of the tribe prepare to initiate them into the privileges of manhood. A night or two previous, a dismal cry is heard in the woods, which the boys are told is the Bùlù calling for them. Thereupon all the men of the tribe set off for some secluded spot, previously fixed upon, taking with them the boys or youths to be initiated. No white man is allowed to be present, and the precise nature of the ceremony is therefore unknown; but it is certain that the ceremonies are designed to try their courage, fortitude, and the expertness of the boys in reference to their future employments in the chase and in war. There is probably some difference in these ceremonies among the different tribes. The Wellington station, or those of the interior, for instance, never knock out a front tooth, which is always done on the coast.

From the time the youths are initiated, they are required to yield implicit obedience to their elders. This is the only control that seems to prevail, and is very requisite to preserve order and harmony in their social intercourse, as well as to supply the place of distinctions of rank among them.

The youths are likewise restricted to articles of diet, not being allowed to eat eggs, fish, or any of the finer kinds of opossum or kangaroo. Their fare is consequently of a very poor description, but as they grow older these restrictions are removed, although at what age we have not learnt; but after having passed the middle age, they are entirely at liberty to partake of all. The purpose of this is thought to be not only to accustom them to a simple and hardy way of living, but also that they should provide for the aged, and not be allowed to appropriate all for themselves. Selfishness is therefore no part of their character, and all observers are struck with their custom of dividing anything they may receive among each other, a disinterestedness that is seldom seen among civilised nations.

To protect the morals of the youths, they are forbidden from the time of their initiation until their marriage to speak to or even to approach a female. They must encamp at a distance from them, and if, perchance, one is seen in the pathway, they are obliged to make a detour in order to avoid her. Mr. Watson stated that; he had been often put to great inconvenience in travelling through the woods with a young native for his guide, as he could never be induced to approach an encampment where there were any women.

The ceremony of marriage is peculiar. In most cases the parties are betrothed at an early age, and as soon as they arrive at the proper age, the young man claims his "gin," or wife.

The women are considered as an article of property, and are sold or given away by the parents or relatives, without the least regard to their own wishes. As far as our observation went, the women appear to take little care of their children. Polygamy exists, and they will frequently give one of their wives to a friend who may be in want of one; but, notwithstanding this laxity, they are extremely jealous, and are very prompt to resent any freedom taken with their wives. Their quarrels, for the most part, are occasioned by the fail sex, and being the cause, they visually are the greatest sufferers; for the waddy is applied to their heads in a most unmerciful style, and few old women are to be seen who do not bear unquestionable marks of the hard usage they have received. The husband who suspects another of seducing his wife, either kills one or both. The affair is taken up by the tribe, if the party belongs to another, who inflict punishment on him in the following manner.

The guilty party is furnished with a shield, and made to stand at a suitable distance, and the whole tribe cast their spears at him; his expertness and activity often enable him to escape any serious injury, but instances do occur in which the party is killed. Such punishments are inflicted with great formality, upon an appointed day, and the whole tribe assemble to witness it. The person most injured has the first throw, and it depends upon the feelings of the tribe respecting the offence committed, whether they endeavour to do injury to the culprit or not; and thus it may be supposed that there is some judgment evinced in this mode of punishment.

The following account of the burial of their dead was received from the missionary who was an eye-witness to it. He was called out one evening to see a native, who, they said, was dying. On repairing to the camp, he was too late, for the man was already dead, and, notwithstanding the short space of time that had elapsed, the corpse was already wrapped up for burial. The legs had been bent at the knees and hips, and tied to the body, and the head bent downwards towards the legs. In this position the corpse was enveloped in a blanket, and bound round with many ligatures, so as to form a shapeless lump. There were about fifty natives present, seated within a small space in front. The women were raising dismal lamentations and cutting themselves with sharp sticks; while the men were engaged in an earnest consultation as to the place which should be fixed upon for the burial. At length it was determined to be on the banks of the Macquarie, at no great distance from the mission station. On the following day the missionary proceeded to the place, and found that the natives had already cleared the grass from a space about twenty feet in diameter; in the centre of this the grave was marked out, of an oval shape, six feet long by three feet wide. After digging to the depth of about a foot, they left a ledge all around the grave of a few inches in width: the excavation, thus diminished in size was continued to the depth of five feet, the sides not being exactly perpendicular, but sloping slightly inwards. At the bottom of the grave was laid a bed of leaves, covered with an opossum-skin cloak, and having a stuffed bag of kangaroo-skin for a pillow; on this couch the body was laid, and the implements of hunting and war which the deceased had used during his lifetime were laid beside him. Leaves and branches of bushes were strewed over him, until the grave was filled up to the ledge or shelf above-mentioned. Across the grave were laid strong stakes, with the ends resting on this shelf, and on these a layer of stones, which filled the hole to the level of the soil. The excavated earth was then put over the whole, forming a conical heap eight or nine feet high. The trees on each side were marked with irregular incisions, but whether intended as symbols, or merely to identify the place of sepulture, was not understood. All the time that this was going on, fires were kept burning around the place, to drive away evil spirits, and the women and children uttered loud lamentations, inflicting at the same time wounds upon themselves. When the grave was completed, all the women and children were ordered away, and the missionary, perceiving that it was expected that he would do the same, retired also. His presumption was, that they intended to give utterance to their grief, and that they were ashamed to do it in his presence, or before the women and children

The day after the burial, the natives visited every spot in which they recollected to have seen the deceased, and fumigated it, for the purpose of driving away the evil spirits. They even went into the missionaries' houses, greatly to the annoyance of the ladies.

Their style of mourning consists in bedaubing themselves with pipe-clay; and a more hideous object than an old woman thus tricked out can hardly be conceived. The body and limbs are streaked with it, and the face completely covered, as with a mask, in which holes are left for the eyes, nostrils and mouth. The mask is gradually removed, until the last that is seen of it is a small patch on the top of the head.

They have some idea of a future state, although some assert that the whole man dies, and that nothing is left of him; while others are of opinion that his spirit yet lives, either as a wandering ghost, or in a state of metamorphosis, animating a bird, or other creature of a lower order than man.

During our stay at Sydney, a convict-ship arrived; and being desirous of obtaining a view of her accommodations, and the mode of treating the convicts, I visited her. This vessel was prepared expressly for the purpose. Between decks, a strong grated barricade, well spiked with iron, is built across the ship at the steerage bulkhead. This affords the officers a free view of all that is going on among the prisoners.

Bunks for sleeping are placed on each side all the way to the bow, resembling those in a guard-room. Each of these will accommodate five persons. There is no outlet but through a door in the steerage bulkhead, and this is always guarded by a sentry. Light and air are admitted through the hatches, which are well and strongly grated. The guard is under the command of a sergeant, and is accommodated in the steerage, the whole being under the orders of a surgeon, whose duty it is to superintend and regulate everything that relates to the prisoners, inspect the ship daily, and administer punishment, even unto death, if necessary. The surgeon also has control over the master of the vessel and his regulations. The master and mates, on receiving a certificate from the surgeon, are allowed a small sum for every convict landed, in addition to their pay.

The criminals have prison fare, and are supplied with woodenware for their eating utensils, which are kept in very nice order. The quarter-deck is barricaded near the main-mast, abaft of which all the arms and accoutroments of the guard and vessel are kept. The master and officers are usually lodged in the poop-cabin. The prisoners are habituated to the discipline of the ship, on board the hulks, before leaving England. The usual, and most effectual, punishment for misbehaviour is to place the culprit in a narrow box on deck, in which he is compelled to stand erect. This punishment is said to be effectual in reducing the most refractory male convicts to order, but it was not found so efficacious in the female convict-ship; for, when put in the box, they would bawl so loudly, and use their tongues so freely, that it was found necessary to increase the punishment by placing a cistern of water on the top of the box. This was turned over upon those who persist in using their tongues, and acted on the occupant as a shower-bath, the cooling effect of which was always and quickly efficacious in quieting them. I was informed that more than two such showers were never required to subdue the most turbulent.

I was struck with the ruddy, healthy, and athletic looks of the young convicts that were arriving, and from their deportment and countenances I should hardly have been inclined to believe that they had been the perpetrators of heinous crimes.

The convicts on arriving are sent to the barracks at Sydney. The government selects from them such mechanics as are required for the public service, and then the numerous applicants for labourers are supplied. Those assigned to private employers are sent to the interior under the charge of a constable or overseer.

They build their own huts, and the climate being very fine, require but little shelter. The hours of labour are from six to six, and the quantity of labour exacted from them is about two-thirds of what would be required in England. They are treated in all respects as if they were free, and no restraint is imposed, except that they cannot leave their masters, who when they have no farther use for them, return them to the government to be re-assigned.

When on ticket of leave, they may reside in any place they choose to select.

The convict's time of probation depends upon the original term of his sentence; but on a commission of crime within the colony, it begins from his last conviction. For refractory conduct, they may be taken to the nearest magistrate, who orders punishment on the oath of the master. The magistrate has also power to send them to the nearest chain-gang employed on public works. Here they are worked in irons, and kept on scanty food for a limited period, after which they may be returned to their masters. If badly treated, the convict may have the affair investigated, but redress conies slowly.

All persons who are landholders may receive convicts as assigned servants, in the proportion of one to every three hundred and twenty acres, but no one proprietor can have in his employ more than seventy-live convicts.

Written application for labourers is made to the Board of Assignment, and the applicants must bind themselves to keep the assigned convict for at least one month, and to furnish him with food and clothing agreeably to the government regulations, which are as follows, viz.:

The weekly rations consist of twelve pounds of wheat, or nine pounds of seconds flour; or, in lieu thereof, at the discretion of the master, three pounds of maize meal, and nine pounds of wheat, or seven pounds of seconds flour; with seven pounds of beef or mutton, and four pounds of corned pork, two ounces of salt, and two ounces of soap.

The clothing for a year is as follows, viz.: two frocks or jackets, three shirts, of strong linen or cotton, two pairs of trowsers, three pairs of shoes, of stout durable leather, one hat or cap, and the use of a good blanket and mattress belonging to the master.

Custom, however, has extended the above allowance, and the quantity of luxuries added in tobacco, sugar, tea, and grog, makes the amount nearly double. These additions have become absolutely necessary in order to procure work from the convicts, and the free supply of them is the only way in which they can be made to work in the harvest season.

One of the evils attendant on the assignment system is the difference in the treatment they receive from those to whom they are assigned. On the arrival of a convict-ship, a large number of persons who have made applications to the Board are in waiting; they of course know nothing of the character of the convicts, and, as I learned from a good source, no record is kept, or sent with the convicts themselves. The Board is entirely ignorant of their character or crimes, and thus can exercise no discrimination in assigning the convict to the hands of a good or of a hard master. The greatest villains may, therefore, fall into kind hands, while one who is comparatively innocent may suffer much more than he deserves.

The punishment of transportation must continue very unequal until a classification be resorted to. Many convicts, by bad treatment, are confirmed in their vices.

The present system appears fitted to entail evil and misery on the colony, and there are few disinterested men who do not view it as calculated to prevent any moral improvement. Murders, robberies, and frauds are brought about by it, for which extreme punishments are of such frequent occurrence that it is a matter of astonishment that a stranger should remark that an execution had taken place. The day before our arrival five criminals had been hung, and more were to suffer in a few days. These executions take place without causing any unusual excitement.

The season of our visit to Sydney was that of their summer (December), and it was somewhat difficult for us to realise the luxuriance of vegetation about us. We could hardly become familiar with windows and doors entirely open at Christmas time.

As our departure drew near, one and all of us felt and expressed regret at leaving such kind friends. In very many places and families we had found ourselves at home, and were always received with that kindness that showed us we were welcome. The seasons, with many other things, may be reversed, yet the hospitality of Old England is found here as warm and fresh as ever it was in the parent land. It would be impossible to mention all those to whom we feel indebted for various kindnesses and attentions, or even to cite those from whom the Expedition received many accessions to its collections. Notwithstanding I have mentioned many things that have struck us as requiring great reform, yet the whole impression left on my mind is, that it is a glorious colony, which the mother country, and the whole Anglo-Saxon race, may well be proud of, and that it ought to claim much more attention than it apparently does from the home government.

On the morning of the 26th of December, 1839, we weighed our anchors and stood to sea, and set about preparing the ship for the Antarctic cruise, the events of which will be detailed in the following chapters.

* In the diluvial flats along the rivers, the wheat crop is usually about twenty-five bushels to the acre. Forty to forty-five bushels hare been obtained, but such crops are very unusual.