Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition: During the Years 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842. Volume One.
Chapter VIII. — Peru
Chapter VIII.
Peru.
Porpoise sails—Difficulties of leaving the Bay—Regulations of Port badly observed—Conduct of the Captain of Hamburg Vessel—Part company with Peacock and Tender—Make the Coast of Peru—Enter Bouqueron Passage—Island of San Lorenzo—Burying—ground—Change of Anchorage to Callao—Vessels in Port—Castle—Description of Houses—Religious Practices—Market—Old Callao—Effects of Earthquake—Vaults for Depositing the Dead—Population of Callao—Road to Lima—Bella Vista—Approach to Lima—Entrance and Appearance—Its Plan—Amusements—Saya and Manta—Its Privileges—Houses—Portales or Arcades—Palace—Fountain—Cathedral—Crypt—Market—Convent of San Francisco—Library—Signature of Pizarro—Classes of Natives—Newspapers—Earthquakes—Climate—Rain—The Rimac
On the 26th of May, 1839, the Porpoise sailed for Callao, in order that some repairs might be made on her, which our time here did not admit of.
On the 4th of June we made an attempt to get out of the bay, but were obliged again to cast anchor. At this season of the year, light northerly winds usually prevail, and a heavy swell frequently sets in the bay, making the roadstead very uncomfortable, and at times dangerous. The vessels are too much crowded, and the regulations of the port are not sufficiently attended to.
I was not a little amused with the master of a Hamburg barque, who dropped his anchor so as to foul the berth of my ship, and when he brought up, swung close alongside. He seemed perfectly satisfied with his situation, and apparently knew little about his business, showing all the doggedness of his countrymen. The weather looking threatening, I sent him word to move, stating that in case of a change of wind, he would be greatly injured. He quietly replied that his vessel was made of teak, and that his underwriters or my government would pay his damages, and that he could stand a good deal of grinding! Without more ado, I sent an officer and men, and put him at once out of my way.
On the 6th, we had a breeze from the southward and eastward, and immediately got under way with the squadron, and succeeded in making an offing. As we opened the land to the southward, my view and thoughts wandered in that direction, hoping that still, and at the last moment, the missing tender might heave in sight. But no white speck was seen, nor any thing that could cause a ray of hope that she might yet be in existence; and my fears foreboded what has since proved too true-she and her crew had perished.
On the second day after leaving Valparaiso, we had a fresh gale from the northward, accompanied with much sea. During the night, in thick weather, we lost sight of the Peacock and Flying-Fish. On the 9th we got beyond the wind, which blows along the coast from the northward, and our weather improved, exchanging fog, rain, mist, and contrary winds, for clear weather, and winds from the south-west.
On the 20th, in the evening, we passed through the Bouqueron Passage, having got several casts of the lead in three and a quarter fathoms water; and by the assistance of the lights of the other vessels, anchored near the rest of the squadron at San Lorenzo, after a passage of thirteen days. We found them all well, and proceeding rapidly with their repairs. The Peacock and Flying-Fish arrived two days before us.
On receiving the reports of the commanders of the different vessels, active operations were at once begun to refit, replenish our stores, and complete our duties. The necessary changes in officers and men were made, in consequence of my determination to send the Relief home. This I resolved to do on several accounts. I have stated that from the first I found her ill adapted to the service; her sailing I saw would retard all my operations, and be a constant source of anxiety to me: and I felt that I already had objects enough, without her, to occupy and engross my attention. The expense was another consideration, which I conceived myself unauthorised to subject the government to, particularly as I found, on calculation, that for one-tenth of the sum it would cost to keep her, I could send our stores and provisions to any part of the Pacific.
We found it necessary to have the Relief smoked, in order to destroy the rats with which she was infested, to save our stores from further damage. During this time the repairs of the Porpoise had been completed, and the usual observations for rating our chronometers, and with the magnetic instruments, were made on shore; and such officers as could be spared, allowed to visit Lima. The naturalists were also busy in their several departments. We remained at San Lorenzo ten days, during which time its three highest points were measured with, barometers at the same time. The result gave eight hundred and ninety-six feet for the southern, nine hundred and twenty for the middle, and twelve hundred and eighty-four for the northern summit. Upon the latter the clouds generally rest, and it is the only place on the island where vegetation is enabled to exist. The others are all barren, sandy hills. It is said that the only plant which has been cultivated is the potato, and that only on the north peak. This becomes possible there from the moisture of the clouds, and their shielding it from the hot sun.
The geological structure of the island is principally composed of limestone, clay, and slate. It presents a beautiful stratification. Gypsum is found in some places between the strata, and crystals of selenite are met with in one or two localities. Quantities of shell-fish are found on the shore, and the waters abound with excellent fish.
The burying-ground is the only object of interest here. The graves are covered with white shells, and a white board, on which is inscribed the name, &c. They appear to be mostly of Englishmen and Americans, and it would seem that the mortality had been great. But when one comes to consider the large number of menof-war which have been lying in the bay, and the period of time elapsed, the number of interments do not seem large.
It was with much pleasure we greeted the arrival of the Falmouth, Captain M'Keever, whose kindness in supplying our wants, and forwarding our operations, we again experienced. The essential and timely aid he gave me, in exchanging the launch and first cutter of his ship, for materials to build one, which I had brought from Valparaiso for that purpose, prevented our detention here.
On the 30th of June, the squadron went over to Callao.
The bay of Callao is too well known to require much to be said of it. The climate, combined with the prevailing winds, make it a fine harbour. The island of San Lorenzo protects it on the west from the swell of the ocean, but its northern side is entirely exposed; there is no danger to be apprehended from that quarter. A few miles to the north the influence of San Lorenzo ceases; the surf there breaks very heavily upon the beach, and prevents any landing.
The gradual manner in which the extensive plain rises from Callao towards Lima, seems to give a very erroneous idea of the situation of the city. From the bay it is seen quite distinctly, about six miles distant, and does not appear to be elevated; yet I measured the height of Mr. Bartlett's house above the level of the sea by sympiesometer, and found it four hundred and twenty feet. The rise would be scarcely perceptible to a stranger passing over the road, or one who had not a practised eye.
Since my visit to Callao in 1821, it had much altered, and for the better, notwithstanding the vicissitudes it has gone through since that time. A fine mole has been erected, surrounded by an iron railing. On it is a guard-house, with soldiers lounging about, and some two or three on guard.
The mole affords every convenience for landing from small vessels and boats. The streets of Callao have been made much wider, and the town has a more decent appearance. Water is conducted from the canal to the mole, and a railway takes the goods to the fortress, which is now converted into a depot. This place, the sea-port of Lima, must be one of the great resorts of shipping, not only for its safety, but for the convenience of providing supplies. The best idea of its trade will be formed from the number of vessels that frequent it. I have understood that there is generally about the same number as we found in port, namely, forty-two, nine of which were ships of war; five American, two French, one Chilian, and thirty-five Peruvian merchantmen, large and small.
The castle of Callao has become celebrated in history, and has long been the key of Peru. Whichever party had it in possession, were considered as the possessors of the country. It is now converted to a better use, viz.: that of a custom-house, and is nearly dismantled. Only five of its guns remain, out of one hundred and forty-five which it is said to have mounted. During our visit there the Chilian troops had possession of the country, which they had held since the battle of Yungai. Most of the buildings are undergoing repairs since the late contest.
It is said that the fortress is to be demolished, and thus the peace of Callao will in a great measure be secured.
The principal street of Callao runs parallel with the bay. There are a few tolerably well-built two-story houses on the main street, which is paved. These houses are built of adobes, and have flat roofs, which is no inconvenience here, in consequence of the absence of heavy rains. The interior of the houses is of the commonest kind of work. The partition walls are built of cane, closely laced together. The houses of the common people are of one story, and about ten feet high; some of them have a grated window, but most of them only a doorway and one room. Others are seen that hardly deserve the name of houses, being nothing more than mud walls, with holes covered with a mat, and the same overhead.
The outskirts of Callao deserve mentioning only for their excessive filth: and were it not for the fine climate, it would be the hot-bed of pestilence. One feels glad to escape from this neighbourhood.
The donations to the clergy or priests, at two small chapels, are collected on Saturdays from the inhabitants. On the evening of the. same day, the devotees of the church, headed by the priest, carry a small portable altar through the streets, decorated with much tinsel, and various coloured glass lamps, on which is a rude painting of the Virgin. As they walk, they chant their prayers.
The market, though there is nothing else remarkable about it, exhibits many of the peculiar customs of the country. It is held in a square of about one and a half acres. The stands for selling meat are placed indiscriminately, or without order. Beef is sold for from four to six cents the pound, is cut in the direction of its fibre, and looks filthy. It is killed on the commons, and the hide, head, and horns, are left for the buzzards and dogs. The rest is brought to market on the backs of donkeys. Chickens are cut up to suit purchasers. Fish and vegetables are abundant, and of good kinds, and good fruit may be had if bespoken. In this case it is brought from Lima. Everything confirms, on landing, the truth of the geographical adage, "In Peru it never rains." It appears everywhere dusty and parched up.
The situation of old Callao is still visible under the water, and though an interesting object, becomes a melancholy one, when one thinks of the havoc a few minutes effected. The very foundation seems to have been upturned and shaken to pieces, and the whole submerged by a mighty wave. The wonder is that any one escaped to tell the tale.
Two crosses mark the height to which the sea rose. The upper one, one-third of the way to Lima, indicates the extreme distance to which the water flowed; the lower one marks the place whither the Spanish frigate was carried. I very much doubt the truth of either. I can easily conceive that a great wave would be sufficient to carry a large vessel from her moorings half a mile inland, but I cannot imagine how the water should have reached the height of one hundred and fifty feet at least above the level of the sea, and yet permitted two hundred inhabitants of old Callao to have escaped on the walls of a church which are not half that height.
Outside the walls of the fortress are several large vaults, filled with the dead, in all stages of decay, and on which the vultures were gorging themselves: this was a revolting spectacle. Indeed, it is truly surprising that the higher classes, and those in immediate authority, should not feel the necessity of appearing more civilised in the disposition of their dead. Many are thrown in naked, and covered only with a few inches of sand. Great numbers of skeletons are still seen with pieces of clothing hanging to them. Dogs and vultures in great numbers were everywhere feeding upon the dead, or standing aloof, fairly gorged with their disgusting repast. If anything is calculated to make a people brutal, and to prevent the inculcation of proper feeling, it is such revolting sights as these.
Callao is said to contain between two and three thousand inhabitants, but this number, from the appearance of the place, seems to be overrated. Several new buildings are going up, which proves that notwithstanding the times of revolution, they still persist in carrying on improvements. The principal street is about a third of a mile in length, and is tolerably well paved, with sidewalks. Billiard-signs stare you in the face. This, I presume, may be set down as the great amusement, to which may be added the favourite monté at night.
Coaches, or rather omnibuses, run several times a day to Lima. The old accounts of robberies on the road to Lima, are still fresh in the mouths of strangers. In times of revolution it was infested by robbers, but the steps taken by government have effectually put a stop to them.
On the road to Lima is Bella Vista; but it is in ruins, and has been so ever since the revolution. It was generally the outpost or battle-ground of the two parties, and although the soil in the plain which borders the sea is extremely fertile, consisting of decomposed rock, containing the elements of fertility in the greatest abundance, it now appears a neglected waste. Attention to its cultivation and irrigation would make it a perfect garden. On approaching Lima, the gardens and fields are found to be cultivated and well irrigated. Fields of Indian corn are seen, some fully ripe, some half-grown, and others just shooting up—a novel sight to us. This bears testimony not only to the fineness of the climate, but to the fertility of the soil. The gardens near the city are filled to profusion with fruits of all descriptions.
The road, on its near approach to the city, forms an avenue of about a mile in length. This, in its prosperous days, was the usual evening drive, and afforded a most agreeable one. On each side are gardens filled with orange-trees, the fragrance of whose flowers, and the beauty and variety of the fruit, added to its pleasures. It is now going to decay from utter neglect. Its rows of willows, and the streams of running water on each side, though forming its great attraction, will, if suffered to remain without attention, be completely destroyed. No one seems to take interest in the public works. So marked a difference from Chili could not but be observed.
At Lima I was struck with the change that had taken place since my former visit. Everything now betokens poverty and decay; a sad change from its former splendour and wealth. This appearance was observed not only in the city, but also among the inhabitants. Whole families have been swept off, and their former attendants, or strangers, have become the possessors of their houses and property.
The country has been a scene of commotion and revolution for the last twenty-five years, of which Lima for a long time was the centre. The fate of Lower Peru being entirely dependent on it and the fortress of Callao, the alternate possessors have stripped it and its inhabitants in every way in their power. It may with truth be designated a declining city.
The neglected walls and ruined tenements, the want of stir and life among the people, are sad evidences of this decay. The population is now said to be about forty-five thousand, although in former times it has been supposed to amount to as many as sixtyfive or seventy thousand.
The aspect of the city, especially a bird's-eye view from the neighbouring hills, gives to the eye of the stranger the appearance of ruins. There are few buildings that have the look of durability, and no new ones have been put up for the last forty years. The plan of the city combines more advantages than any other that could have been adopted for the locality. The streets are at right angles, and all sufficiently broad. Those which run with the declivity of the ground, northwest and southeast, have water flowing through their middle. The uses to which these streams are put, and the numerous buzzards that frequent them, give the stranger any other idea than that of cleanliness. The buzzards are protected by law, and may be seen fighting for their food in the gutters, regardless of passers; or sitting on the tops of the houses, thirty or forty in a row, watching for more food.
Great attention has been paid to laying out the alameda, which is on the north side of the city. Its centre is ornamented with a number of fountains; its walks are well shaded on each side with trees; and the running water adds to its freshness; all unite to form a delightful promenade. In the cool of the evening it is much frequented, and its stone seats are occupied by numbers of citizens. This is the best place to get a view of the inhabitants; and notwithstanding their internal commotions, they appear fully to enjoy their cigarittas, which they are constantly smoking. The peculiar dress of the ladies is here seen to the best advantage, and, however fitted it may be to cover intrigue, is not, certainly, adapted to the display of beauty. A more awkward and absurd dress cannot well be conceived. It is by no means indicative of the wearer's rank, for frequently this disguise is ragged and tattered, and assumed under its most forbidding aspect, to deceive, or carry on an intrigue, of which it is almost an effectual cloak.
I never could behold these dresses without considering them as an emblem of the wretched, condition of domestic society in this far-famed city.
The saya and manto were originally intended as a retiring, modest dress, to mark reserve, to insure seclusion, and to enable ladies to go abroad without an escort. The general term for the wearers is Tapada, and they were always held sacred from insult. Tapada is likewise applied to a dress which is also frequently seen, viz., a shawl worn over the head, so as to cover the nose, mouth, and forehead. None but the most intimate friend can know the wearers, who frequent the theatres in this disguise. It is to be regretted that it is now worn for very different purposes from its original intention. Intrigues of all kinds are said to be carried on under it. It enables the wearer to mix in all societies, and to frequent any place of amusement, without being known, and even if suspected by her husband or relatives, the law of custom would protect her from discovery. In this dress, it is said, a wife will pass her own husband, when she may be walking with her lover, and the husband may make love to his wife without being aware it is she.
The saya is a silk petticoat, with numerous small vertical plaits, containing about thirty yards of silk, and costing fifty or sixty dollars. It is drawn in close at the bottom of the dress, so that the wearer is obliged to make very short steps (ten inches). It is a little elastic, and conforms to the shape, whether natural or artificial, from the waist down. The manto is a kind of cloak, of black silk. It is fastened to the saya at the waist, and brought over the head and shoulders from behind, concealing everything but one eye, and one hand, in which is usually seen a cross, or whose fingers are well ornamented with jewels. Before the manto is arranged, a French shawl of bright colours is thrown over the shoulders, and brought between the openings of the manto in front, hanging down nearly to the feet. The loose saya is also much worn; this is not contracted at the bottom, and in walking has a great swing from side to side.
The walk of the Lima ladies is graceful and pretty, and they usually have small feet and hands.
The houses are built of sun-burnt brick, cane, and small timber. All those of the better class have small balconies to the second story. Most of the houses are of two stories, and they generally have an archway from the street, secured by a strong portal, leading into an open court. The lower, or ground floor, is used as store-houses, stables, &c. This peculiar manner of building is intended as a security against the effects of earthquakes. The housetops are a depository for all kinds of rubbish; and the accumulation of dust is great. The staircase leading to the upper story is generally handsome, and decorated with fresco paintings, which are, however, far below mediocrity. This style of building is well adapted to the climate.
The Portales, or Arcades, is one of the most attractive places for the stranger. He is there sure, at all hours, to see more of life in Lima than at any other place. They are built on two sides of the plaza. The ground-floor is occupied as shops, where all kinds of dry goods and fancy articles are sold. Between the columns next the plaza, are many lace and fringe-workers; and without these again, are sundry cooks, fresco-sellers, &c., who are frying savoury cakes and fish for their customers, particularly in the morning and late in the evening.
The Arcades are about five hundred feet long, well paved with small stones, interlaid with the knuckle-bones of sheep, which produces a kind of mosaic pavement, and makes known the date of its being laid down, as 1799. This place, for hours, every day is the great resort, and one has a full insight to every store, as they are all doors, and consequently quite exposed to their remotest corner. The second story is occupied as dwellings.
The palace of the viceroy occupies the north side of the plaza. The lower part of it is a row of small shops, principally tinkers and small-ware dealers. On the east side is the archbishop's palace and the cathedral.
The fountain in the centre of the plaza is a fine piece of work, and was erected, according to the inscription, in 1600, by Don Garcio Sarmiento Sotomayer, the viceroy and captain-general of the kingdom.
"El que bebe de la pila sequenda in Lima," is the usual saying.
"He that drinks of the fountain will not leave Lima."
The cathedral is a remarkable building, not only from its size, but its ornaments. Most of the decorations are in bad taste, and I should imagine its former riches in the metals and precious stones have contributed chiefly to its celebrity. Certainly those ornaments which are left cannot be much admired.
Its great altar, composed of silver, might as well be of lead, or pewter, for all the show it makes. In a chapel on one side of the building, there is a collection of portraits of the archbishops. They are good faces, well-painted, and all are there but the one who, at the breaking out of the revolution, proved faithful to his sovereign and the Spanish cause. They all have had the honour, except him, to be interred in niches in the crypt under the great altar. Many of the coffins are open, exposing the dried-up remains of the saints, clothed in leather jackets and shoes, which the sacristan made no difficulty about disposing of for a trifle. Two skulls and a hand were obtained. There is some good carving about the choir of the cathedral.
The market of Lima is kept in an open square. It is a strange place to visit, and the scene that is witnessed there cannot fail to amuse the stranger. It is well supplied, and many purchasers frequent it. There are no stalls, and mats are used in their stead. The meat is laid on them in rows, and the vegetables heaped up in piles. The meat, as at Callao, is cut with the grain, and into small pieces, to suit the purchasers; and poultry is cut up in a similar manner. But what will most attract a stranger's notice, are the cooking establishments. These are in great request; stews, fries, and olla podridas, are in constant preparation by some brawny dame, who deals out with much gravity and a business-like air, the small pieces to the hungry Indians, who stand by waiting for their turn. The fried dishes seemed to claim their preference, if one could judge by the number in waiting. The expertness of the woman who officiated was truly wonderful, twisting and twirling the dough in her hand, placing it upon a stick, dipping it in the hot oil, and slipping it, as soon as cooked, dexterously into the dish for her customers. Then again was a frier of pancakes close by, equally expert. The variety of dishes cooking was surprising, and those who fried fish exhibited undoubted proofs of their freshness, by consigning them to the pan before they ceased to live.
I was surprised at the variety of fish, meats, vegetables, and fruits; the latter particularly. These were in season, and included oranges, cherimoyers, pomegranates, paltas, plantains, bananas, papaws, granadillas, apples, figs, and ananas.
The above are the usual articles crowded into the market, but were I to stop here, one-half would not be told. All sorts of goods, jewelry, cottons, woollens, laces, hardware, linen fabrics, handker-chiefs, shoes, slippers, hats, &c., are hawked about by pedlers with stentorian lungs, who, with the lottery-venders, with tickets, ink-horn, and pen, selling the tickets in the name of the Holy Virgin and all the Saints, make an uproar that one can have little idea of, without mixing in, or witnessing it.
The convent of San Francisco occupies six or seven acres of ground. In its days of prosperity it must have been a magnificent establishment. Its chapels are very rich in gilding, carved work, &c., and the cloisters are ornamented with beautiful flowers and flower-gardens. Part of it is now occupied by the soldiers as barracks, and their muskets are stacked on the altar of one of its chapels. It has long since been stripped of its riches and deserted, but it seems once to have possessed all that wealth, luxury, and taste could effect or suggest. The good Father Anculus, who showed the building, was shrewd and obliging. The gallery of paintings contains, it is said, many fine Murillos. The remains of its former splendour, even now, justifies what Father Feüillee asserted, that there was nothing of the kind to compare with it in Europe. There are but few friars here at present, but it is said to have formerly maintained five hundred, living in the greatest luxury and licentiousness. The most remarkable object in the church, was the shrine and image of a black Virgin Mary, with a white infant Saviour in her arms.
The public library is composed of rare and valuable books, both in French and Spanish, taken from the Jesuits' College and convents. They are in good order, and among them are many manuscripts which are beautifully illuminated. The librarian, a young priest, deserves our thanks for his attention and civility.
The public museum has been but lately commenced. It contains a collection of curious Peruvian antiquities, some native birds, and the portraits of all the viceroys, from Pizarro down. At the cabildos or city hall are to be seen some of the archives of Lima, kept, until recently, in good order. Many signatures of the old viceroys and governors are curious; among others, that of Pizarro is shown. As few of them could write, they adopted the rubrica, made by placing the finger of the left hand and making the flourish on each side of it, the clerk filling in the name. This method has since been generally adopted among the South Americans, in signing official documents, being considered full as binding as if the name was written.
There are three classes of inhabitants, viz., whites, Indians, and negroes. The union of the two first produces the cholo; of the two last, the zambo; and of the first and last, the mulatto. The Spaniards, or whites, are a tall race, particularly the females. They have brown complexions, but occasionally a brilliant colour, black hair and eyes. Some of them are extremely beautiful. The cholos are shorter, but well made, and have particularly small feet and hands. All classes of people are addicted to the smoking of cigars, even in carriages, and at the dinner-table. It does not seem to be considered by anyone as unpleasant, and foreigners have adopted the custom.
There does not appear to exist any accurate account of the population of Peru; but it is generally believed to have decreased, particularly as regards the whites and negroes. The best information gives but little over a million inhabitants, viz., about one hundred and twenty-five thousand whites; natives and cholos, eight hundred thousand; with ninety thousand negroes and ranchos, of whom about thirty-five thousand are slaves. This does not vary much from the number given by the geographies forty years ago. The country appears, from all accounts, not only to have decreased in population, but to have diminished in wealth and productiveness. A much less proportion of the soil is now cultivated than formerly under the "children of the sun."
There are half a dozen newspapers published in Lima, two of which are issued daily. They are, like the Spanish, small sheets. They have a good deal of control over public opinion. Few or no advertisements are seen in them. These are deemed unnecessary in Lima, and all the amusements, such as the theatre, cock-fighting, &c., are placarded on the portals. A high price is asked for the newspapers.
Most of the buildings in Lima have suffered more or less from earthquakes. It was the season of earthquakes during our stay, and three were felt. Some of our gentlemen complained of a sickening sensation during the first. It did not, however, do much damage. The second took place on the 5th of June, and was sensibly felt; a third was experienced on the 10th of June, with a continued shaking of the walls and floors. The last was reported as having been more severe to the northward.
With the name of Peru the want of moisture is generally associated. This, however, is far from being strictly true, except in certain parts of it. Were it not, however, for irrigation by the mountain streams, a great portion of Peru would certainly become nearly a desert. Indeed, the upland is so now, not yielding any herbage whatever until the pasture region of the Cordilleras is reached, We are not to imagine, however, that the atmosphere is very clear, or that sunshine always prevails. It is extremely difficult to get a clear day. Father Feüillee has put upon record; more than a century ago, that the heavens were generally obscured. I can bear testimony to the truth of this remark, for although a glimpse of the sun was usually had some time during the day, yet it was almost as difficult to get equal altitudes at Callao during our stay, as it was at Terra del Fuego.
The dew (almozo) of Lima is never so great as to produce running water, yet it is more like rain than a Scotch mist.
The peculiarity of there being no rain has been accounted for in several ways, but not to me satisfactorily. The prevailing cold and dry winds from the southward sweep over the western shores of the continent; having a great capacity for moisture, they absorb it as they advance to the northward, from everything. On reaching the latitude of 12° S., they cease, and, having become saturated, now rise to a sufficient height, where they are condensed by the cold strata, and again deposited on the mountains in almost constant rains. This will account for the aridity in the high Cordilleras of Chili, as well as for the existence of the Desert of Atacama, the want of rain on the coast of Upper Peru; and at the same time, for the moisture of the high Cordilleras of Peru.
The records of Lima mention the falling of rain only four times in the eighteenth century, and the occurrence of thunder and lightning an equal number of times. But this applies to a small part of Peru only, namely, the country bordering the coast, some fifty or sixty miles in width around Lima. In the interior, at the height of ten thousand feet, a region exists subject to rain, and on the crest of the mountains the soil is kept perfectly moist by the frequent snows and rain.
Fire is not used often, but from the continual dampness there is a cold and clammy feeling, that is exceedingly uncomfortable and prejudicial to health. Lima has the reputation of being a healthy place—how obtained I know not—but it certainly does not deserve it. The interments have annually averaged over three thousand five hundred, in a population amounting, by the best accounts, to no more than forty-five thousand. Many of these deaths are those of strangers, and the climate has always been fatal to the Indians.
The Rimac derives its waters exclusively from the snows of the Cordilleras. It is a mountain torrent throughout its whole course. The quantity of water in it is small. The width at its mouth is about thirty feet, and one foot deep. It has not sufficient force to break a passage through the beach to the sea, and the water filters through the pebbly soil.