Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition: During the Years 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842. Volume One.
Chapter III. — Rio Janeiro
Chapter III.
Rio Janeiro.
Rio Janeiro—Its Improvements—Its Present Condition—Churches—The Miserieordia—Funerals—Emperor's Birthday—Aqueducts—Public Garden—Museum—Bay and Harbour—Vegetation—Botanic Garden—Slave Population—Coffee—carriers—Researches into the Nations of Africa—Treatment of Slaves—Streets of the City—Society—White—jacket Ball—Defects in the Equipment of the Squadron—Trip to the Organ Mountains—Ascent of the Corcovado.
The city of San Salvador, better known as Rio Janeiro, has been often described. At the time of our visit, a great change appeared to have taken place within a few years, as well in its outward appearance as in its government and institutions, thus giving to the whole a different aspect from that it formerly wore. Under its former monarch, Don Pedro the First, it had all the aspect of a court residence; now it is the very reverse. I shall therefore give my own impressions, and sketch a picture of its state as we found it in the latter part of the year 1838.
Republican forms, habits, and customs, are gradually creeping in under its new and reformed constitution. It is not to be denied that the people now appear to be much better off than formerly, and more at liberty to carry on their lawful pursuits. Commerce and intercourse with foreigners are every day making liberal advances. Every one, on his first landing at Rio, will be struck with the indiscriminate mingling of all classes, in every place, all appearing on terms of the utmost equality; officers, soldiers, and priests, both black and white, mixing and performing their respective duties, without regard to colour or appearance. The only distinction seems to be that of freedom and slavery. There are many wealthy free blacks, highly respectable, who amalgamate with the white families, and are apparently received on a footing of perfect equality. The police, too, consisting of a national guard, has taken away those forms of military parade that formerly existed. An air of independence is creeping in even among the working classes. Any little service that is required, and for which they are well paid, they appear to consider as a favour done you. The mechanical arts are at least half a century behind those of our own country. The churches, which are numerous, are falling into decay, which gives a dilapidated look to the city; its religious ceremonies are dispensed with, and, to crown all, the steps of the churches are made a market-place for the sale of sheep, pigeons, fruit, &c. To judge from appearances, and the attendance on its services, there exists little religious feeling towards the Roman Church. It is true, the same constant ringing of bells occurs that is to be heard in all Catholic countries, and other outward signs are still kept up; but the priesthood are not regarded "with such awe as they formerly were, and society seems to be breaking through the trammels that have so long enslaved the female portion of it. Religion is a mere name among the youth of Brazil. The aged are still observant of its ceremonies, but little or no attention is paid to the Sabbath. The stores and the workshops are open the same as on other days. A few are seen going to worship in the morning of that day, but a greater number attend the billiard-tables in the afternoon, and the theatres at night.
We saw Rio Janeiro under its most favourable aspect, that of the holidays, when the Church had put on all her finery and decorations, and every one, slave as well as master, seemed intent upon enjoying himself. The Christmas week or holidays give a respite from all labour, and various are the amusements. The churches are decked, and the services extraordinary.
The neglect of the public walks and roads shows a want of proper attention, and strikes the visitor as different from the usual order of things around a court. So far as cleanliness goes, Rio, I am told, is not much improved. It has every advantage to make it a clean city, but the inclination appears to be wanting. Although the government is doing little, one sees the spirit of enterprise among the citizens. Many private dwellings are being erected, and I understood that many other improvements were taking place.
The houses of the city are strongly built of stone, cemented together with clay; this is used in consequence of the scarcity of lime, which is only obtained by burning shells fished up from the bay. The houses are plastered on the outside, and have a pretty appearance and colour. The floors, beams, and roofs are made of the hard wood of the country, of great size and strength, which are indeed necessary from the heavy tile roof they have to bear. Very few of the houses have yards, cellars, or gardens; consequently the dwellers are still greatly incommoded from the want of water-closets, detrimental both to health and comfort, and not only an annoyance and inconvenience to the inhabitants themselves, but shared by the stranger in passing through the streets.
We of course saw all that was to be seen in Rio. The churches claimed our first attention. They are richly decorated in the interior, with massive gold and silver ornaments. On some of the altars of the saints it is the practice to suspend the diseased parts of the body in wax, in honour of the cure supposed to have been effected by the saints' intercession. The sight of these is truly disgusting, although they are far from being ill executed.
The Misericordia has now become much out of repair, and I understood had fallen off in its charitable usefulness, but it still shows the remains of its former splendour. Few monks were seen about, and dead bodies were laid out in the Green House. At the time we visited it there were eight, the greater part of whom were negroes. A monk was seen saying a hasty prayer over the bodies, which were at once thrown into the trench, when they were sprinkled with lime, placing one layer over the other, until the hole, about six feet square and as many deep, is filled, or level with the surface. After one of the trenches is filled, another is dug by the side of it. The crowded state of this place of interment is but too evident from the number of skulls and bones lying about, some still with portions of flesh adhering to them.
On the same evening, while this scene was still fresh in our minds, and as if in strong contrast with it, we met the funeral of a person of distinction. A black hearse, ornamented with black plumes, was drawn by mules. The driver had a cocked hat and black plume. The coffin was covered with a scarlet pall, ornamented with silver. About twenty altar-boys, in their church dress, preceded the hearse, which was surrounded by about the same number of black servants, in livery, all carrying lighted wax candles. The body, on arriving at the imperial chapel, was removed into it, and all who entered the chapel were furnished with lighted tapers. Mass and the funeral service were performed by the priest, and some delightful music by a full choir. The body was then taken into the Campo Santo, a kind of amphitheatre, with high walls, a short distance from the church. About a thousand vaults are built in the wall. One of them was opened, the body interred, and the wall built up again. The centre of this sepulchre is laid out in a flower-garden, and is about one hundred feet in diameter.
December 2d was the birthday of the Emperor, Don Pedro the Second, who then was thirteen years old. It was celebrated with all due pomp. Great preparations had been making for many days. He was to pass into the city from St. Christoval, his usual residence, in procession, and to hold a levee at the city palace. The streets were strewn with orange and other leaves, a triumphal arch erected, &c. But a description of his progress will give a better idea of it.
Having left St. Christoval, he entered the city about noon, preceded by a large troop of horse. He rode with his sisters, one sixteen, the other fourteen years of age, in a splendid English carriage, with bronze and gold mountings, drawn by eight cream-coloured horses, gaily caparisoned, with silver-mounted harness, the servants in rich liveries. Three carriages, drawn by six horses each, followed, containing officers of state and his household, the whole surrounded by the Emperor's guards, and above five thousand military following. Great crowds of people had assembled to witness this parade. As the carriages passed under the balconies, garlands of flowers were thrown upon them. They entered the principal street through a triumphal arch, beautifully decorated with natural flowers, on which were placed two little boys, dressed in blue and pink, with wings to represent angels, each holding a basket of flowers, which they threw on the young monarch when he passed. The houses in the streets through which the procession moved were hung with satin damask draperies of the richest tints. These I understand are kept expressly for such occasions. At short intervals national flags were suspended across the streets. The Emperor moved on, receiving the same marks of affection from his subjects until he reached the great square and palace, where he alighted. The troops forming around the square soon came to order, and a general pause ensued, until the firing of the feu de joie began, one of the most deafening I ever heard. He finished this public exhibition by showing himself to the multitude below from the balconies of the city palace, and was received with many vivas.
He then held his levee, which the Rev. Mr. Walsh has so well described, and which closely resembled the one at which he was present, with this difference, that this was much more of a farce, in consequence of the boyhood of the Emperor. Nothing can be more ridiculous than to see all the dignitaries and old men, the mitred bishop, the sage diplomatist, and the veteran soldier, ushered into the presence, and out again, without saying a word, or turning their backs on the young monarch. Mr. Walsh has, however, said nothing about the scene in the anteroom; to me it was the most ridiculous of all. The arranging the order of entrance to the presence, with due form and etiquette; the examination by each diplomatist that he has his due order of precedence; their anxiety to gather their suites around them, not unlike a hen with her chickens, to make the fullest show; all prepares one for the ridiculous scene that is to follow. The oldest resident minister always takes the lead. At night the city was illuminated.
Rio is now well supplied with water. Aqueducts have been finished within the last two years, which bring it from the Corcovado and Tejuca Mountains, a distance of six or seven miles. There are a number of public fountains in different parts of the city. All the water for the supply of families is transported by slaves. These fountains have numerous jets, and some have pretty edifices over them. During the day there are seldom less than fifty to one hundred, both male and female, water-carriers around them, filling their jars, with which they are seen moving about poised on their heads. Near the large fountain called Hafariz, in the square of Santa Anna, are two large basins, about fifty feet long and twentyfive wide. These are commonly filled with about two hundred negro women, who daily assemble to wash. Numbers of them are half naked, standing up to their middle in the water, beating and thrashing the clothes they are employed to clean against the adjoining wall.
Few articles are transported in any other way than by slaves, and it is extremely rare to see a cart drawn by any beast of burden. Antique-looking carriages and two-wheeled calescas are generally seen.
The museum is open twice a week; it is quite creditable to the city, and well worth seeing. It appears to attract more attention from the inhabitants of Rio than I should have been led to expect. It is extremely rich in its native collections, and is well taken care of The theatres, of which there are three, are seldom open on weekdays, but always on Sunday.
The bay is very beautiful, and is usually covered with small boats, felucca rigged, without decks, and generally about twelve tons' burthen. These boats are rowed by blacks. The oars are large, the men row in a standing posture, and thus add the weight of their bodies to their strength. At times the hay seems alive with the Dumber of these vessels, and of small canoes, each made of a single trunk, which are used in fishing. Many of these vessels are also engaged in the coasting trade. Foreigners are usually employed to take charge of the latter, which sail under the Brazilian flag. Steamers are beginning to be used One plies between Rio and Santos, and during our stay, another left the harbour for Monte Video. The greater part of the vessels in the bay are under foreign flags, and I was much surprised to observe how few comparatively are English, and how many are from the north of Europe.
The harbour of Rio may be considered as not extending farther than Enxados Island, above which few vessels lie. The front of the city is not well adapted for wharves, and none consequently exist. There are some stairs, but they are not well protected from the sea, which at times renders landing almost impossible.
In Rio the vegetation seems to fix the attention above all other things, especially of those situated as we were, in the harbour, having it continually before one's eyes.
Here, as in all tropical climates, the truth of the remark made by a botanist, "that everything grows into shrubs and trees, "is obvious. Herbaceous plants are rare, and annuals may be said to be almost wanting. The fruit trees are generally seen bearing fruit and flowers at the same time. This was the case as observed by one of our party, even m the cultivated apple on the Tejuca Mountains.
The botanic garden is in a flat situation, backed by a high ridge of mountainous land. In front is a lake of brackish water, which forms a considerable bay, and communicates with the sea by a narrow inlet. The entrance to the garden has a mean appearance, and does not correspond with the broad promenades within, which are planted with trees on each side. The whole is laid out in the old Dutch style; seats, arbors, and houses are cut out of arbor vitæ, ( Thuja orientalis.) In the centre of the garden was a small fountain, near which grew some fine specimens of the splendid Bougainvillea bracteata, in full flower. There is also a fine collection of Orchideæ, which are cultivated on decayed trunks of trees The bread-fruit trees ( Artocarpus incisa,and integrifolia) succeed very well. There were some trees, of both kinds, forty feet high, and the fruit of the latter as large as an ordinary watermelon. Several groups of bamboos had a good effect among the other trees, but their stems bore evidence of a propensity to the carving names, as a memento of the person's visit Among them I was glad to see the names of many Europeans, which serves to prove that this habit does not exist among Americans alone Here an attempt was made some years since to introduce the tea-plant, with natives of China to cultivate it. The plantation appeared to our botanical gentlemen in a sickly state.
The great and distinctive characteristic of Rio may be said to be its slaves and slavery. This evil continually presents itself to the observer, and he cannot, if he would, divert his attention from the many sights which keep it before his mind.
The slave population is stated at five times the number of that of the whites, and notwithstanding the existing danger of maritime capture, the supply still seems equal to the demand. Although many slavers are taken by the English cruisers, brought in and tried by the mixed commission, agreeably to treaty, yet means are found to introduce the slaves. Two slavers were lying in charge of the English squadron while we were there. On board of them, though quite small vessels, were two and three hundred negroes. It is difficult to imagine creatures more emaciated and miserable. Nor will it fail to excite surprise, that they should be kept thus confined by those who affect to establish their freedom and ameliorate their condition. These vessels, it is understood, had obtained their victims on the eastern coast of Africa.
Slaves are almost the only carriers of burdens in Rio Janeiro. They go almost naked, and are exceedingly numerous. They appear to work with cheerfulness, and go together in gangs, with a leader who carries a rattle made of tin, and filled with stones (similar to a child's rattle). With this he keeps time, causing them all to move on a dog-trot. Each one joins in the monotonous chorus, the notes seldom varying above a third from the key. The words they use are frequently relative to their own country; sometimes to what they heard from their master, as they started with their load, but the sound is the same.
These slaves are required by their masters to obtain a certain sum, according to their ability, it is said from twenty-five to fifty cents a day, and to pay it every evening. The surplus belongs to themselves. In default of not gaining the required sum, castigation I am told is always inflicted.
It is said that the liberated negroes who own slaves are particularly severe and cruel. The usual load carried is about two hundred pounds weight.
Vast numbers of slaves have been and are still imported annually into this market; and as very many of the same nation or tribe associate together, they retain their own language, even after they have been in the country for some years. It may be seen by the most cursory examination, that they are marked in such a manner as to serve to distinguish their different races. Some have little of the distinctive negro character, and others more of it than any human beings we had seen.
The negroes of Brazil who have been brought from North and South Africa, are divided into two distinct and very dissimilar classes. The natives of that portion of the continent known under the general name of Upper Guinea, include the countries in the interior as far as Timbuctoo and Bornon, being the whole of that region lately explored by the English expeditions. The slaves from this quarter, though of various nations and languages, have yet a general likeness, which stamps them as one race. In Brazil they are known under the name of Minas.
The Minas slaves are said to be distinguished from others by their bodily and mental qualities. They are generally above the middle height, and well formed, and betray little of the levity usually ascribed to the negro race.
In Brazil they occupy the highest position that slaves are allowed to attain, being employed as confidential servants, artisans, and small traders They look down upon, and refuse to have any connection with, or participation in, the employment of the other negroes. Many of them write and read the Arabic, and all can repeat some sentences of it. The greatest number of slaves who purchase their freedom belong to this race.
There is one singularity which seems to be common to the inhabitants of both regions, and which may be compared with the practice of tattooing which prevails throughout the tribes of Polynesia, viz.: the custom of cutting or branding certain marks upon the face and body, by which the individuals of one tribe may be distinguished from those of any other. This practice is general among all the Minas, and also prevails along the eastern or Mozambique coast of Southern Africa. Among the western or Congo tribes it does not appear to be universal. It will be readily understood that these marks are of great service to the slavetraders, and all that have much to do with native Africans soon learn to distinguish them; and the price of a slave is depressed or enhanced accordingly. Among the Mina nations, so called after a port on the Slave Coast in Upper Guinea, where these slaves are obtained, this practice is carried to its greatest extent. Each province or city of importance has a distinct brand or mark, which is invariable for all the inhabitants.
Of the tribes speaking the Houssa language, the Goobere, or Guberi, from the kingdom of Bornou, have three or four marks on each side of the mouth, converging towards the corners.
Those from the town of Kano, inhabited by a population of traders, have several perpendicular and parallel marks on each cheek.
The same mark prevails among the people of Kashua and Labbi, neighbours of the foregoing.
The Soccatoos, or Sakatus, on a branch of the Quorra, have several fine long oblique marks, converging towards the corners of the mouth.
Dawwarra or Dawara: these have parallel oblique lines, drawn to the corners of the mouth, with shorter marks meeting or bordering them above and below.
The men of the Nago or Yarribe nation, on the west bank of the Niger or Quorra, below the Houssa, have three or four longitudinal marks on each side of the mouth.
Those of the women are more complicated.
The Tacqua, otherwise called Nouffie or Nyffie, live on the eastern side of the Quorra, opposite the former, and have two or three oblique lines drawn to the corners of the mouth.
The Fantees and Ashantees inhabit that part of the coast of Guinea known as the Slave Coast, and the country in the interior. The former have no distinguishing mark; the latter are characterised by scars produced by burns on the forehead and cheeks.
The Calabars, on the Gulf of Benin, near the mouth of the Quorra, are marked with two lozenge-shaped brands on the breast and stomach.
The Eboes live Bear the preceding, at the separation of the mouths of the Quorra. Their mark is an arrow on each temple, The town of Ebo is a great mart for the surrounding country.
The nations to the south of the equator, have the usual form of the negro, agreeably to our ideas. Those of the slaves at Rio Janeiro, are in general short, badly formed, or clumsy, with narrow foreheads, flat noses, protruding jaws and teeth, and prominent cheek-bones, with the chin sloping backwards. They are indolent, thoughtless, and licentious. They may be seen in the streets at all hours, employed as carriers, earning the stipulated sum for their masters. And when this is gained, they are to be found stretched out on the sidewalk, under the porticoes, or on the steps of churches, enjoying themselves as mere animals, basking in the sun or sleeping in the shade. They are not deficient in intelligence: the defect is less in their intellectual powers than in their character, which appears to want energy.
The Minas are held in much fear in Brazil. They are extremely numerous at Bahia; and it is understood that during a late insurrection, they had fully organised themselves, and were determined to institute a regular system of government. They had gone so far as to circulate writings in Arabic, exhorting their fellows in bondage to make the attempt to recover their liberty.
Tattooing, or marking, does not prevail among the tribes of Lower Guinea to any great extent. The Kambindas, who border immediately upon the Minas, appear to have borrowed from them the custom, but employ it rather for the purpose of ornament than as a mode of distinguishing their origin. The marks or figures with which they brand themselves are various, and sometimes ornamental. They are called in Brazil, Kambindas, after the town on the river Zaire or Congo, at which they are procured.
Of the Sundi or Mayomba, who live immediately north of Loango, between latitude 3° and 4° S., some have a row or band of small cicatrices coming from each shoulder to the centre of the breast, like the ends of a pelerine; others have various arabesque ornaments.
Those who come from Buali, the capital of the Loango district, m about latitude 4° 30' S, have marks like the preceding on the breast, and others on the arms.
Towards the south, tattooing is less common, and among the Goy or Angoya people (the Kambindas proper) few but women are so ornamented.
The Angoyans, however, file their teeth after a peculiar fashion, each tooth being cut down or filed in the centre, so that only the sides are left standing; the contiguous sides of the teeth form a single saw-like tooth.
The inhabitants of the town of Embomma, on the north bank of the river Congo, are distinguished by the teeth being filed so that each tooth forms a point.
The Mundjola, a savage tribe living in the interior, beyond the Loango district, are esteemed the least valuable of all the blacks imported into Brazil, being stupid, ferocious and intractable. In Africa they are stigmatised as man-eaters by the other negroes. The Mundjola have the usual negro features, with somewhat of a Tartar expression.
Of the exact geographical position of the Mundjola, no definite information was known. The part of the continent which they are said to inhabit is still unexplored; the account which one of them gave Mr. Hale was, that he had been three days with his captors in canoes, from his native place, M'te, situated on the great river Muote, before reaching Loango, where he embarked. It is probable that M'te is in the interior, two or three hundred miles northeast of Loango, and that he was brought to the coast by the Zaire river; but in this wild, unexplored ground, all is yet conjecture. The next town or tribe to M'te he called Mudimbe.
The extensive territory, bounded on the north by the river Coanza, in latitude 9° 20'S., on the west by the Atlantic, on the south by the Great Desert, which interposes between it and the country of the Hottentots, and reaching to an indefinite distance in the interior, is known under the name of Benguela, or as the natives pronounce it, Bengera. Over this extent of country, comprising at least half of Lower Guinea, the same general language is supposed to prevail, though subdivided into several dialects.
The Benguela blacks have a much higher character as slaves than the other nations of Lower Guinea. They are next in estimation to the Minas, being steady, industrious, and intelligent. They make excellent husbandmen. They are generally of good height, with features having less of the negro stamp than those of the Congo: the forehead tolerably high, the nose not much depressed, and the lips moderately full.
The extent of the Congo territory is now comprised between the Zaire and Dande rivers, or about two hundred miles of sea-coast. These limits define with sufficient accuracy the extent within which the Congo language prevails.
The Congoes file their teeth after the fashion of the Angoyas. Sometimes, though not often, they have a few marks on each temple. The Angola and the Kasanji are considered in Rio as of different nations, but their languages are the same, with hardly a dialectical difference, and it is extremely soft in pronunciation. Some of the natives found great difficulty in enunciating sounds of the Portuguese, saying balabafor barba, cibili for cidade. Though the Angola and Kasanji spoke the same language, yet there was a considerable difference between the dialects of two Angolas, the one from Loando on the coast, the other from M'Baka, or Ambacca, about three hundred miles in the interior.
From the best information, it is believed that the only distinction between them is, that the Angolas are under the domination of the Portuguese government, and the Kasanji are the free natives of the interior.
.jpg)
mina.
.jpg)
ashantee.
.jpg)
mundjola.
.jpg)
benguelan.
.jpg)
makuan.
.jpg)
nyambana.
The eastern coast of Africa, from the equator to the Hottentots of the Cape, is occupied by two nations or races of people, which, though bearing marks of a common origin, are yet perfectly distinct. Each of them is subdivided into several minor tribes or clans. The first of these may be called the Mozambique or Makua, and the second the Caffre race.
The Mozambique or Makua tribe, are the people who possess all the country inland of the Portuguese and Arab settlements, Melinda, Quilao, Mozambique, Quilimane, and Sofala. They occupy the country which was formerly comprised in the empire of Motapa, but is now divided between the Portuguese and several native provinces. The southern boundary of this people appears to be the river Inhambane, which empties into the Indian Ocean, near Cape Corientes, under the southern tropic. The negroes who inhabit the country near the Portuguese settlement ot Mozambique, are the Mozambique or Makuans: they differ little in their character or bodily conformation from the Congo tribes on the opposite coast. They have the negro physiognomy and qualities in their full extent, and perhaps are, if anything, rather lower in the grade of intellect than their brethren of the west.
The custom of marking prevails among all the tribes of the eastern coast. The Mozambique people are distinguished by a sear like a horse-shoe in the centre of the forehead, with others somewhat different on each side. They have other marks of a similar nature on the chin, and a large brand in the shape of the letter S covers the breast; their teeth are filed sharp, each tooth making a separate point.
The Takwani dwell on the great river Zambezi, at whose mouth Quilimane is situated. This was formerly the line of division between the northern or barbarous Makuans and the territories of the Motapa. Although this empire is extinct, the countries south of the river still preserve some political connection. All this region was formerly termed Mocacougua by the Portuguese. The Takwani, by way of marks, have several groups of dots or scars imprinted in various parts of the forehead, and also on the breast.
Takwani is situated four days' journey up the river Zambezi.
The natives of Mesena have also the same marks; they inhabit the country round the Portuguese fort Sena, on the Zambezi, and were formerly part of the great kingdom, of Motapa.
The Caffres who are found as slaves, are generally slender and well made, with faces partaking slightly of the Moorish cast. Their colour is a yellowish brown, between that of a mulatto and true negro. The nose is not depressed, the lips are rather thick, the eyes large, black, and bright, and the hair woolly. Two divisions of the Caffres have been described by the various authors who have written of them and their dialects. These tribes they have divided into the Caffres proper, to the east of the colony of the Gape of Good Hope, extending from the Great Fish River as far east as Delagoa Bay, in latitude 26° S; and the Bechuanas, to the north, inhabiting the interior as far as the tropics, and the country of the Wanketsi.
The country between Delagoa Bay and Sofala, is inhabited by another race of Caffres, by the name of Nyambana. Their language and physical traits belong to the same family with the Caffres proper and the Beehuanas. Their physiognomy is similar to that described as distinctive of the Caffres, and their language proved to be a sister dialect.
The distinctive personal mark of this tribe is the most extraordinary of any. It consiste of a row of artificial pimples or warts, about the size of a pea, beginning in the middle of the upper part of the forehead, and descending to the tip of the nose. Of these they are very proud. The manner in which these singular elevations were produced, we were not able to learn. The natives appeared to be averse to speaking of it.
The Mudjana or Mutchana are one of a number of savage tribes who inhabit the country inland of Makua and Mocacougua, with whom they carry on a continual war, for the purpose of procuring slaves. The best known of these are the Mudjana, the Mananji, the Maravi, and the Makonde. The Mudjana dwell about three hundred miles from the coast, and are among the ugliest of the African tribes. They are short and ill-formed, with the usual negro features in their most exaggerated forms They have on the face and body cicatrices in the shape of a double cross or star, disposed without regularity. The incisions are made when they are children, and some kind of wood is rubbed upon them to give a dark colour.
The Makonde, similarly located, have marks like to those of the Mudjana. Their teeth are filed down in the centre, the sides of each tooth being left like those of the Angoyas.
All these blacks are from different parts of the coast, and having been hostile tribes, retain much of their antipathy to each other. In general they are kindly treated, and become firmly attached to their masters; more, however, from a clannish feeling than from gratitude, of which virtue they seem to possess little. They are baptised by their owners as soon as purchased, and in the cities attend mass regularly, and go to confession, but they are never thought to become entirely civilised. Those who receive their freedom in reward for faithful services, or purchase it, conduct themselves well; their descendants are much superior in point of intelligence. Many of them own slaves, and prove much more severe masters than the whites. Male slaves are put to any trade or craft they may desire. Females are for the most part employed as mantua-makers, and almost all the finery worn by the higher circles at public fêtes is made by slaves. Indeed, many masters and mistresses are dependent on the labour of their slaves for their daily support. There are some blacks who are priests, and others officers in the army; indeed, some of the deputies would not pass for white men elsewhere.
Another remarkable circumstance that strikes the visitor, is the absence of beggars. Many disgusting objects may be seen among the slave population at Rio, but I do not recollect having met with a beggar. I have understood that they are not suffered to appear in the streets. This is the law in almost all cities, but here it is rigidly observed. Charitable institutions are extensively endowed, particularly that of the Misericordia.
The streets of the city generally cross each other at right angles. Some few of them have sidewalks, but they are narrow, and badly paved. The gutters are in the middle of the streets, with a stream of water, which emits a smell by no means agreeable. Those most frequented are the Rua Direita and Ouvidor. The former, containing the palace and cathedral, is the broadest in the city. In the latter are the principal shops, and it is the gayest. The streets are paved with blocks of stone. What gives Rio its principal charm, are its suburbs and the small quintas around it. Nothing can exceed the beauty of those around Gloria and Botofogo.
The amusements of riding and fishing, with water excursions, are frequent, and of the most agreeable kind. These and other advantages of so fine a climate soon render a residence at Rio quite desirable. There is much pleasant foreign society, composed of the diplomatic corps, many retired gentlemen, and generally the officers of the several men-of-war of different nations.
There appears to be but little intercourse between the Brazilians and the foreign society. The female sex particularly is still much restricted in this respect; and although great improvement has taken place, yet they seldom mix in social intercourse with foreigners; I am told that even among themselves they are seldom seen except at ceremonious parties. They are very much as one would expect them to be, reserved, retiring, and wanting in education. They dress after the French fashion, and are usually covered with finery, often displaying splendid jewels, without taste. There is none of that ease and gaiety which exists where the fair sex is considered on an equality with the other, and there is a total absence of that tone which a consciousness of their value gives to society. Their usual place of resort during the afternoon and evening is the balconies of their houses; some of them are occasionally seen at church. It is said they soon lose their beauty, an early age being considered as their prime.
Among the, many places to which we had the honour of an invitation, was one of their monthly balls, the white-jacket ball, at Praya Grande; so called in consequence of a request being made on the card of invitation, that the gentlemen would come in white jackets, and the ladies appear without brilliants or other jewels. We gladly accepted the invitation.
On reaching the anteroom we were met by the committee of gentlemen, or managers, and kindly greeted without ceremony, making us at once feel at our ease. We were shortly afterwards ushered into one of the most splendid ball-rooms I ever saw. There were upwards of three hundred present, all dressed in pure white, without any finery whatever. The room was brilliantly lighted. We were shown around, and introduced to a great many persons of both sexes, who all seemed bent on amusement. It was truly a sans souci meeting. Seldom have I seen so much good taste as was displayed in the arrangements, or so good a tone of society. A good band of music, all Brazilians, played waltzes and marches alternately. I was told there were many distinguished persons, senators, representatives of the congress, &c., present.
The language generally spoken was Portuguese, though some few of the ladies, and many of the gentlemen spoke French. I was not much struck with the beauty of the ladies. The great charm thrown over the whole was the unaffected manners and naiveté exhibited by the whole company.
Our repairs in Rio were extensive, particularly those on the Peacock. Among other things, the head of the mizzen-mast had to be cut off eighteen inches, in consequence of a defect in it, which it appeared had been filled up with rope-yarns and putty, and painted over, at her outfit. The defects about the vessel were so glaring, that in going to the high latitudes, it would have been impossible to secure the crew from great suffering and exposure. Even in the state in which the squadron was now put, I had every apprehension of the greatest disasters. The Peacock, particularly, was wholly unseaworthy with respect to such a cruise.
The uncertainty of the length of time I should be detained rendered it impossible for me to allow long absences from the ship. I was anxious to have made some measurements of the Organ Mountains, and that our parties should extend their researches beyond them to the Campos.
Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge succeeded in making the trip to the Organ Mountains on a botanical excursion; but the outfits and duties connected with the vessels and observations, made it impossible for me to spare any officers to make the measurement of their height or to go myself. These gentlemen set out, having taken passage in the usual freight-boat (felucca rigged) for Estrella embarking their horses and mules in another. These boats are not decked, and are of sufficient tonnage to make them safe and convenient freight-boats. They generally have four or five slaves, with a padron to manage them.
A little incident that occurred to these gentlemen will show the difficulties to be encountered in obtaining specimens. They had observed, for a few days, a beautiful yellow flowering tree, that was very conspicuous in the forest. Believing that it could be easily come at, they made the attempt to reach it, but without success, finding it, instead of being low, a high and inaccessible tree. They then directed their steps to others, but were disappointed again. Determined not to be foiled in their pursuit, they again went off in search of others in sight; these, to their surprise, were on the opposite side of a river. Nothing daunted, Mr. Brackenridge crossed it, though deep, and endeavoured to scale the tree. What had appeared near the ground, now proved a tree of some sixty feet in height, with a smooth and slippery bark; and he returned to his companion empty-handed. Dr. Pickering next made the attempt. After crossing the stream with difficulty, he reached the desired object, and endeavoured to climb, but after reaching some forty feet, was obliged to acknowledge himself vanquished.
A few days before our departure, we made a trip to the top of the Corcovado. The naturalists who were of our party observed that almost a total change had taken place in the plants since their last visit, about a fortnight before. I took with me the necessary instruments to measure its height, and we all amused ourselves with collecting plants, insects, lizards, &c. We took the road that turns off near Gloria, and even before we began to emerge from the city, several novel kinds of ferns were observed growing on the house-tops and walls. We soon entered coffee plantations, groves of bananas, tamarinds, mangroves, and orange-trees. A vast variety of plants were pointed out to me by Mr. Brackenridge; among them the beautiful Vochysia, with its splendid yellow blossoms, showing conspicuous among the rest. After a fatiguing walk we reached the top. The last quarter of a mile, or the last rise to its summit, causes one to become somewhat breathless in a hot day; but when the top is gained, it is worth all the labour of climbing, and amply repays for the exertion.
The whole of the magnificent harbour, the city, and environs, lay beneath our feet. A bird's-eye view is had of everything grouped in the most pleasing variety; and nothing strikes one so forcibly as the white sandy beaches of Botofogo and Praya Grande, with the beautiful blue of the sea washing on them. The many lakes, the castellated peaks, and the variously-shaped, craggy, and broken hills, are all softened by the light and airy green vegetation, creeping up their sides so as to melt them almost into one. The day was beautifully clear, and the refreshing sea-breeze just what we could desire. To form an idea of the beauty of Rio and its environs, it is necessary to mount to the top of the Corcovado, or some high peak in the neighbourhood.